Hirilonde
-
Posts
3,464 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
233
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Hirilonde
-
-
A step scarf is decorative. It is used to join pieces under no strain as it looks much nicer than a simple butt. It is much more likely to break under strain even if the angled part were done 8:1. I use it to join pieces of cap rail and such more to show off than anything else. My customers like the look too.
No joint in framing lumber is accepted in house construction in any structural member except where it is supported by something else (like a beam supported by a column at the joint) or approved and stamped as such by an engineer. Floor joists for example must be one piece lumber or engineered units like TGIs. Joining pieces to make them longer is not allowed at all even though it could be done well.
-
I believe Graham recommends a tiny slot in the over lap end and a bump in the bushing of the insert end that fits into it. Works like Garry's screw but doesn't protrude at all. I figured I could always add this later, but so far haven't noticed any need. Seems simple to do and apparently very little strain in twisting occurs, so something small and non-structural is ample to do the trick. I am guessing that my relatively tight joints are sufficient as they are, but should they wear loose this is what I will try next.
-
The S9N is the same, 2 removable seats, I did nothing to secure them. Mine is used as a tender and will rarely be sailed when capsizing is at all likely. If I used it a lot for "just for fun" sailing I would consider some kind of latch. I'm sure they would try to drift away after a capsize.
I'll be looking for a clever response here
-
Mark, I did nothing to keep my mast sections from twisting. I have the reefable sail and have noticed no problems.
Looks good Russ.
-
Ahoy bassoan, and welcome.
-
I envision having the 30' boat at anchor and the kinds playing the SD and wanting to stop for a few minutes for lunch. Be nice to be able to drop the sail.
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_411_A_SubCatID_E_446_A_ProdID_E_3483
It sure would. I'm waiting for Garry to cut his luff sleeve into loops and report on how it worked out. Then I will try it on mine. :
-
Hmmm, 6mm plywood not laying flat on a smooth surface with a full grown adult kneeling on spots while maneuvering into position to work. As tempting as it was to get inside I was afraid to try. I won't allow anyone in on the beach now either.
-
The strips are stiffeners. The bottom section there is quite broad. They are in the plans for the S9N. They may not be needed in the one piece version as the interior bulkhead layout is very different.
I used Easypoxy for the green (green 50/50 with white) and Interdeck beige for the non-skid.
-
My mast is white, my boom is varnished.
You might want to reconsider making your entire interior white. I say this for 2 reasons. One is that white is really bright on sunny days. The other is that white is hard to keep clean looking, and the inside of a dinghy has the tendency to get dirty. Light gray or beige on the bottom and seat tops would do wonders to reduce glare and disguise dirty. Both would still go well with your color scheme. I used a 2 color scheme interior. I painted the entire interior then added the beige non-skid to masked off areas.
-
Both the bushing and the stop collar are made of glass tape saturated in epoxy wrapped around the pole. The tricky part is getting the bushing just too snug, then sand it down to where it slips easily into the next section but with no slop (wobble). It isn't critical, but fairing the stop collar to the pole above the joint with filler is a good idea. This keeps the collar from snagging the luff sleeve.
Here are my three sections before painting:
-
Boy does that design look French. Looks like a Mini 6.5 except even smaller. I bet she is fast off the wind.
-
What is long board sanding?
Not to seem the smart ass, but it is sanding with a long board. By using a slightly flexible long sanding surface you can only sand the high spots and hence you fair out the large surfaces (like a hull) to the shape they were intended to take. Long boards can be bought commercially or home made. 6mm and 9mm ply make good ones, I bet you have some scraps around. Try a search in the forum on the subject, they have been discussed before.
-
How do you plan to use the dinghy, as a cruising tender? What is important to you, looks, convenience? Where do you plan to sail? How much will you be away from the dock?
Important questions. I don't see how anyone can answer detailing questions, even for themselves, without answers to these and possibly other questions first. I love bright work, but have none on my dinghy. It is a work boat, a tool for cruising, but that's me, and based on my answers to such questions.
-
I didn't tape mine. One less place to fair out the tape edges.
-
I used Awlgrip products. I sanded my pieces, used the cleaning and etching solutions, the 2-part epoxy/zinc chromate primer, 545 primer, then finished with their LPU topcoat. If I didn't have access to all this at work I would go the route Ray went. The Awlgrip products would be way too expensive for small projects.
-
Warm the pieces you're applying epoxy to. Just taking them out into the sunshine for a few hours' date=' prior to applying epoxy is usually enough. The surface temperature should be around 100 to 120 degrees. Then remove from the heated area and place it in a normal room temperature area. Wait at least 5 minutes to insure the wood is cooling down, then apply unthickened epoxy.[/quote']
Great advice! If your wood is warming while the epoxy cures on it you will get bubbles. If it is cooling you will get less or none. If you can't warm the pieces, then at least wait till late afternoon when you can be sure the temperature will be dropping.
I use 400 grit between coats of varnish after the first couple. It isn't so much to avoid scratches, as 220 will resolve that, it is to remove less varnish. Varnishing is way too tedious to remove any more than needed to get a good bond and/or level the wood out.
-
OK how did you learn this.
If you try to tow the boat without a plug' date=' you will have a boat full of water in just a few minutes. Shocked [/quote']Steve beat me to the answer. :
I was on my way to Block Island for my first weekend cruise with my new dinghy. Actually, I caught on before it was full, but it probably wouldn't have taken much more than a few minutes. I like the ones cut off flush with the bottom.
-
No i'm talking about the mast collar which the plans show has a 2" hole.
Aha, yeah, mine is a bit tight as well. When next I paint mine I think I will do as Wardm is suggesting.
-
I take it this is for the mast step? If so, you will note in the plans, that you need a shaped plug in the butt of the mast, and a slot, not a hole in the step.
-
Not really needed for rowing though it can't hurt, but definitely for towing. Ask me how I learned this! :
-
I think my boss would be quite piqued if I went to bed 2 hours before getting off shift :-\ ;D
Bah, just tell him/her that Frank said to do it.
-
I used mahogany from the local lumberyard that is 1 /4 for decking. It is not honduras, probably african but I've used it before and it looks nice and rich when finished.
It is probably cambura (sp) or meranti. They come from Polynesia and South America. Good stuff for decking, fine for your gunwhales, but no substitute for African for planking.
-
I think you will find ash is a bit heavy for spars. Sitka spruce has been an all time favorite, but can be pricey. Douglas fir is quite good, only a little heavier than spruce and available mostly every where in North America at reasonable prices. People have been known to cull out virtually clear stock from the framing lumber at local yards with a little persistence.
-
Sounds like the LPU is much safer to work with in that regard, and Ray raved about the ease of use (quick dry, lack of odor, etc.).
Taken in context, I think I know what you meant, but I couldn't disregard your statement. Your sentence needs serious modification. Water born LPUs are safer. LPUs like Awlgrip and Alexaseal which are not water born are among the most dangerous paints available. Nothing short of supplied air is acceptable protection when using them, especially when spraying. There is no known respirator cartridge that will filter out the isocyanates. I would bet this is part of why Ray likes the System 3 product in particular.
Securing seats in Spindrift
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I built my S9N just as in the plans with the exception of Garry's hardware. So I don't have any side seats. I figure I could easily add 4 small friction dampened barrel bolts, 1 to each end of each seat underneath that engage a hole in the cleats. Now nothing moves and there are no additional loose parts to keep tabs of. I can and often lose small pieces. I was just curious if anyone else already tried addressing this.
This is good stuff to think about, thanks for the thoughts.