Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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On 7/9/2021 at 12:49 PM, Paul356 said:
I assume this would work on bow or keel; it certainly has worked on my centerboard and rudder.
I bet it does work, but I still wouldn't do it. A SS, Brass or Bronze chafe strip is even more durable and easy to replace waaaaaaaaay down the road when needed.
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4 hours ago, gray duck said:
thanks for the replies - seems to make more sense to me to put rope on top of the fiberglass ,cuz it is sacrificial
I dont see how it matters, before or after in regards to wear and repair. What ever you wear away does not expose wood, and you can fill it back in after the damage. Wraping glass around a nice round leading edge would be a lot easier to get fair. I would do the glass after.
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That is a big difference. And even as a tender, the space lost is tolerable.
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16 hours ago, TheWeezer said:
MY SAIL HAS ARIVED!!!
I am still working on getting it painted.Why would you paint your sail?
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Starboard, have you tried swamping since the tanks were added? Does the aft section fair better even without tanks?
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I used a 9 as a dinghy and never regretted it. Sometimes small is better, especially when you have to jockey it about to store it.
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You will note Mark, that the guy from North Carolina (warm) likes to slow down the solvent flash off to let it level, and the guy from Washington (cold) likes to add something to speed up the flash off and drying. Both are sound practices for the conditions and used for many years.
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That trim piece/batten is a thin version of the rub rail and it is glued onto and flush with the bottom edge of the shear plank. Both the rub rail and this trim piece (I know of no name for it) are Teak. The two, frame the plank and add some pzazz the the look of the hull IMO. Tom Lathrop, who conceived of the Lapwing did this and also painted the shear strake green. I have been debating the idea of painting my shear strake a dark blue green myself since I built the boat. But there is just something about white and varnish that is complete as is.
I glued the trim piece and the rub rail on after the planking was sanded and ready for paint. I varnished both first, allowing a little varnish to be feathered onto the hull. Then I masked the Teak and primed and painted the boat. It is a tedious detail to make and maintain, but I like it.
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The term "dead wood" comes from conventional plank on frame building. It is the part of the keel through which the ballast keel is bolted to the floors.
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First of these I have seen. We need more pictures.
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The only time I thin varnish is when I do the first coat, and it is on bare wood. This is to get the first coat to penetrate the wood a little better. And then I only thin 10-15%. Over epoxy I do not thin at all. And when I do thin I use pure gum turpentine. Even in Florida I wait over night to sand a coat.
I find on vertical surfaces I have to work the varnish to a complete but thin coat and then slowly feather out the finish. There is a knack to this that I can't really describe. And even then, I always find a drool or two.
On a side note: a varnish brush can be stored in turpentine for many months. The solids won't come out of solution like they do when the brush is left in mineral spirits.
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Newbie status?
edit: Aha. 15 years and over 3,000 posts and I'm a newbie.
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23 minutes ago, Peter HK said:
With scarfs the longer the better.
Usual minimum recommendation is 8 to 1, though some advise 12 to 1.
I’ve used 8 to 1 with no problems in the past.
I used 8:1 for the staves of my birdsmouth masts and the 5 pieces that make up each rub rail, for many stringers on SoF kayaks and umpteen other applications and no issues.
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6 hours ago, Thrillsbe said:
In the past, I’ve used vinegar. But the word on the street is that it also allows some penetration. Waterless hand cleaner is the safest, and is readily available.
This is the latest and best information from a reliable source. So until something else is proven better..........................
On a side note, some citrus hand cleaners have skin softeners in them. If anyone needs that it is people who handle the stuff we do.
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Acetone is probably best, but alcohol works too.
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4 hours ago, Steve W said:
. As for the keel, both Skeena and Suzy J have White Oak keels. Tough as nails, closed cell wood great for this application. The rub is that being closed cell they don't glue great,
If it is dry, and the mating surfaces are scuffed and cleaned, epoxy will glue it just fine. Teak and White Oak have bad names because they require a little attention and some don't give it. So we all get to listen about their failures without knowing the whole story. Just like everything, it is in the prep.
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6 hours ago, PiedTyper said:
I hadn't thought about how the poplar would react to abrasion in an application like the keel. I can definitely appreciate the advantage of something like a long grain pine in that application. I will definitely look into a more hard wearing lumber for those sorts of pieces.
The keels on both my Spindrift and Lapwing have bronze solid half round chafe strip the entire length. It is amazing how little damage is done to a boat with just this precaution. SS hallow half round works well too. Then it almost doesn't matter what you use so long as it hold fasteners well. Poplar does.
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Varnish and Urethanes are 2 entirely different animals. One is an oil based product, the other is a plastic. There is no such thing as a urethane varnish. Like so many words in the English language the word varnish has been misused to mean any clear coating. As oil based paints have been proven to work well for these boats I would suggest real varnish. It will however add an amber translucent color.
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it is the installation contractors fault. He should have used a level. I have installed seats and shelves in tile tubs/showers and I always set them slightly off level to drain.
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Interesting question, I never even thought about it. My Lapwing main sprit weighs 4.3# with blocks and chafe gear. It is probably a tad shorter than a CS17. I interpret this to mean mine is still a bit lighter when corrected for length. Mine is DF.
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Mark, check the plans. The Lapwing called for a 1 1/2"x1 1/2" tapered to round at both ends. Not sure that the octagon will mean much less meat in the middle, but that is where it is needed most.
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What kind of wood wouldn't make that bend without steam?
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Charly is a member here, and we were both members of the Classic Plastic forum. If he is interested I would recommend him. He may be off cruising his Rhodes Meridian.
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It looks like the plywood was just butted.
What David and Peter said.
Spindrift 10N Build - Two Bits
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Good point about the contrasting colors inside/outside. I have the reverse issue on mine. The light teal interior of the aft section mars the white exterior of the fore.