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Hirilonde

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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. I tackled the masts first while waiting for my plywood order. It is a tedious job and I was glad I did it early. I wish I had used AYC instead of Douglas Fir for my masts. It is a little lighter and still fabulous in all the characteristics needed. I balked at the price.  Though I bet you can get it a lot cheaper than I did.

     

    Is B&B making all the planks for you? Spiling and fitting the planks was probably the most time consuming part of the build.

     

    I think the Lapwing is the perfect daysailor.  It is less than 16 feet and still carries 4 in luxury.  On a trailer it is 19'8", so it fits nicely in a 20' garage.  It is quite stiff, hence forgiving, yet still performs well when the wind picks up.  I have had mine planing several times, it is exciting.

     

    FYI, there is no such thing as too many boats.

    • Like 1
  2. Compared to stitch'n'glue the Lapwing sure is a tedious hull to build. The effort will be worth it when painted.  I don't know that the false stem adds any real stiffness to the hull, but it is a bumper, especially if a metal chafe strip extends from the bottom up the curve of the stem.  Just make sure to form the bend before you drill the screw holes, to maintain a nice fair curve.

  3. Hey Kenneee,

    I built both masts the same, cept for length.  I believe they are 18 and 17 feet long. I did 6' of full diameter and then tapered to the end of both. I made them almost a foot long so that when I cut the ends it came out neat.  I only plugged the ends.  The only reason to block a hallow mast is for structural attachements like a gooseneck for a boom, or where spreaders join.  I did the birdsmouth cuts on my table saw and then tapered them. 1 1/4 tapered to 3/4 gives you a mast just a tad under 3".  I then made thin glass bushing at the butt and at the partner to remove the slop from my 3" ID tube or hole in thwart.

     

  4. I built the boat exactly to plans with only cosmetic changes and my sheets are rigged to swivel blocks/cam cleats on the center thwart.  I made birdsmouth masts and used bronze track.  I glassed nothing, but did a continous bronze chafe strip on the keel. I have yet to rig reefing lines.  I have reefed a couple times before setting sail. It is another thing to rig at the ramp. I think going to all the tedium of building wooden spars and then covering them in a luff sleeve is kind of a waste. I also used 2 full battens and 2 partials. Sail shape has always been my #1 concern. I can get her rigged in about 15 minutes at the ramp. I ordered 2 of the sheets of 6mil in Sapele instead of Okoume, for the deck and transom.  It is a nice touch for varnishing.

     

    I wouldn't change anything I did.  Probably better to ask specific questions, either now, and /or as you get going.

  5. 13 hours ago, Aleksandr Pasechnik said:

    All that is also helped by having a topping lift (to keep the boom up over my head while rowing with the sail lowered and lashed), but that I have found can be static. If I really need to raise the end of the boom a bit, I can wrap the topping lift line around the end of the boom a couple of times.

     

    Might experiment with some lazy jacks, too, though maybe that would be too much? =]

    If your topping lift comes down from the mast and goes through a cheek block, oposite the one for the outhaul, and then to a jamb cleat, it will be adjustable. On bigger boats a 2:1 system is used, but not needed on a Spindrift.

     

    I think lazy jacks is getting carried away. But then I didn't use them on my 27 foot Renegade either.

  6. On 9/20/2021 at 9:52 AM, Thrillsbe said:

    I wish someone would compile a bunch of cat ketch sailing tips for sailors new to the rig.

    Permanent archives have been discussed here and in other forums.  They are almost always dismissed.  Not just because some one has to do it, but learning things by reading, before you have even tried, is not sought by many people. Trying and asking specific questions is the choice of most, and a living/ongoing forum does that well. People can respond to exactly what the learner is asking, which can be much more meaningful.  Anyway, that is my 2¢

  7. 12 hours ago, Murray said:

     I'll make up a steam box and steam the false stem. 

    Why? Just cope one out, use 2 pieces if you have to and scarf together.  It is just decoration and maybe a bumper, depending on how you sail. Almost all stems, even in the day, were cut on band saws.

     

    I would varnish the tramsom.  Actually, I did, but mine was Sapele though.  You can always sand and paint if you don't like it. Flat surfaces at least are easy.

     

    Looking good.

  8. 2 hours ago, Aleksandr Pasechnik said:

    So if I wanted to go out already reefed in a stiffer breeze, do I just attach the outhaul to the reefeing clew and the tack to the gooseneck attachment? \

    Bunching up the sail with the reef point lines is nice too, but that's how I do it.

  9. Well, you could, um, errr, build a Spindrift. 

     

    In all seriousness, it isn't just the 9% more sail area.  It is significantly better sail shape. It's all a compromise, and your damned because it is all related.

    • Haha 1
  10. Small electrics are already practical, though pricey compared to petrol. The larger ones are starting to catch on, but they don't seem to have a great range/run time and are very expensive. Technology in DC electric and storage of it are moving fast. It may well come down in price over the next few years.

  11. Andy, the step of a Spindrift mast is shaped to keep the mast from rotating.

     

    Tim, you will need some really sexy bushings or bearings for the mast to spin on for any hope of a furling line to work. You will also have to remove the boom or put the bushings/bearings above the goose neck. I can't imagine either working. I would just raise the sail and go sailing.

  12. Dealing with the gap is the easy part.  Is the side with the gap now higher than the other? Does it protrude out beyond the topsides?  Do you have to trim the top of one cabin side now to match the other? Do you need to dress down anything sticking out too far?  These would be my concern.

     

    BTW, you have no shear strake on your boat.  You do have a shear, and that gap is in it.

  13. 22 minutes ago, PadrePoint said:

      I haven’t gotten around yet to making pockets that would neaten up the lines. 

    I find pockets for sheets cause more tangles than loose spaghetti on the cockpit sole.  I coil my mizzen haylyard and tuck it behind where it leads down to the cleat. My main halyard leads aft to  the thwart on the port side deck and I let it spill just forward out of the way of my aft cockpit. If I had a balasted cruising boat I might do differently.

  14. I am only 68, but I am beginning to appreciate your decision Pete.  I am getting close to making aluminum or wood/carbon masts as my birdsmouth  Douglas Fir masts are getting harder to step. Short sails in my Spindrif 9N on the small pond in front of my house are amusing, but I would not want a Spindrift as my only boat. Best to you on your new boat.

  15. You may want to reenforce your aft deck, or at least add a good sized backer for that.  The load is to rip it up and out as well as shear it forward. The nice thing about that style is you can easily remove everything 'cept the small part that mounts semi-permanently. I like it when indications of a motor can go away.  The down side is that you can't lock your motor on as the mount and motor can be removed together and the height doesn't adjust. Tilting your motor is the only adjustment you have. 

     

    Oh, and I like bronze.  Gonna keep this item in mind should I ever go auxilliary.

  16. 35 minutes ago, Paul356 said:

      Not only does it help me keep them straight, it's much easier to tell guests (like at the family sailing extravaganza last week), "pull that blue rope."  Or more importantly, "keep your butt off that red rope."  Stuff can happen too fast on a dinghy to stand on ceremony. 

    LOL, but yeah, I hadn't thought of this one.

  17. I think all main sheets on small boats are over sized. They are way stronger than needed.  It is done for comfort. I can't imagine you need larger.

     

    I would never add more advantage to a pulley system than is absolutley needed. It doesn't just create a larger pile of spaghetti in the boat, but slows down trimming.

     

    I rarely sail with the sprit forward of abeam.  But I like that I can and that I can slow down making a down wind beach landing by dropping the mizzen and dumping the main by sheeting out to forward of a beam.

     

    I use the soft braid B&B sells. Randy, have you tried marking the lines with colored tape or markers to tell them apart? It took me a year or more to stop making my sheets shorter. I was afraid to make them too short. But I didn't want any more line in the cockpit than necessary. I leave my sheets rigged to the sprits when I break down at the boat ramp. Less to do next time and solves the problem of which is which.
     

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