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Hirilonde

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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. LOL, but yeah, I hadn't thought of this one.
  2. I think all main sheets on small boats are over sized. They are way stronger than needed. It is done for comfort. I can't imagine you need larger. I would never add more advantage to a pulley system than is absolutley needed. It doesn't just create a larger pile of spaghetti in the boat, but slows down trimming. I rarely sail with the sprit forward of abeam. But I like that I can and that I can slow down making a down wind beach landing by dropping the mizzen and dumping the main by sheeting out to forward of a beam. I use the soft braid B&B sells. Randy, have you tried marking the lines with colored tape or markers to tell them apart? It took me a year or more to stop making my sheets shorter. I was afraid to make them too short. But I didn't want any more line in the cockpit than necessary. I leave my sheets rigged to the sprits when I break down at the boat ramp. Less to do next time and solves the problem of which is which.
  3. Nothing beats having both main and mizzen sheets going to the center thwart and a swivel block/cam cleat for hiking out. The sheets are always in front of you, with a swivel they allow leading directly at you, the elevation matches hiking for easy cleating and uncleating. The main sheet can be in your lap for quick release. My mizzen is single ended and uses a traveller. My main sheet is double ended with each swivel out board of the mizzen mast on the thwart to provide the same effect as a traveller and it gives me the 2:1 advantage. With experience, if it didn't bother me to have the only end some times to lee, and some times to whether, single ended would be fine. It works well from both ends on both tacks. When the wind picks up, nothing makes me feel more comfortable than having the main sheet in my lap, cept maybe my toes under the hiking straps. Even if I don't use either, it is knowing how quickly I can react that gives me the comfort.
  4. Bending half round or half oval is tricky. Hollow is even trickier. It wants to kink. I bend my pieces over a mold before drilling holes. This helps a lot!! I bet a 3/4" flat stock would work well too. Just file the exposed corners a little after installing. https://www.mcmaster.com/bronze/easy-to-machine-architectural-385-brass-bars/
  5. Good point about the contrasting colors inside/outside. I have the reverse issue on mine. The light teal interior of the aft section mars the white exterior of the fore.
  6. I bet it does work, but I still wouldn't do it. A SS, Brass or Bronze chafe strip is even more durable and easy to replace waaaaaaaaay down the road when needed.
  7. I dont see how it matters, before or after in regards to wear and repair. What ever you wear away does not expose wood, and you can fill it back in after the damage. Wraping glass around a nice round leading edge would be a lot easier to get fair. I would do the glass after.
  8. That is a big difference. And even as a tender, the space lost is tolerable.
  9. Why would you paint your sail?
  10. Starboard, have you tried swamping since the tanks were added? Does the aft section fair better even without tanks?
  11. I used a 9 as a dinghy and never regretted it. Sometimes small is better, especially when you have to jockey it about to store it.
  12. You will note Mark, that the guy from North Carolina (warm) likes to slow down the solvent flash off to let it level, and the guy from Washington (cold) likes to add something to speed up the flash off and drying. Both are sound practices for the conditions and used for many years.
  13. That trim piece/batten is a thin version of the rub rail and it is glued onto and flush with the bottom edge of the shear plank. Both the rub rail and this trim piece (I know of no name for it) are Teak. The two, frame the plank and add some pzazz the the look of the hull IMO. Tom Lathrop, who conceived of the Lapwing did this and also painted the shear strake green. I have been debating the idea of painting my shear strake a dark blue green myself since I built the boat. But there is just something about white and varnish that is complete as is. I glued the trim piece and the rub rail on after the planking was sanded and ready for paint. I varnished both first, allowing a little varnish to be feathered onto the hull. Then I masked the Teak and primed and painted the boat. It is a tedious detail to make and maintain, but I like it.
  14. The term "dead wood" comes from conventional plank on frame building. It is the part of the keel through which the ballast keel is bolted to the floors.
  15. First of these I have seen. We need more pictures.
  16. The only time I thin varnish is when I do the first coat, and it is on bare wood. This is to get the first coat to penetrate the wood a little better. And then I only thin 10-15%. Over epoxy I do not thin at all. And when I do thin I use pure gum turpentine. Even in Florida I wait over night to sand a coat. I find on vertical surfaces I have to work the varnish to a complete but thin coat and then slowly feather out the finish. There is a knack to this that I can't really describe. And even then, I always find a drool or two. On a side note: a varnish brush can be stored in turpentine for many months. The solids won't come out of solution like they do when the brush is left in mineral spirits.
  17. Newbie status? edit: Aha. 15 years and over 3,000 posts and I'm a newbie.
  18. I used 8:1 for the staves of my birdsmouth masts and the 5 pieces that make up each rub rail, for many stringers on SoF kayaks and umpteen other applications and no issues.
  19. This is the latest and best information from a reliable source. So until something else is proven better.......................... On a side note, some citrus hand cleaners have skin softeners in them. If anyone needs that it is people who handle the stuff we do.
  20. Acetone is probably best, but alcohol works too.
  21. If it is dry, and the mating surfaces are scuffed and cleaned, epoxy will glue it just fine. Teak and White Oak have bad names because they require a little attention and some don't give it. So we all get to listen about their failures without knowing the whole story. Just like everything, it is in the prep.
  22. The keels on both my Spindrift and Lapwing have bronze solid half round chafe strip the entire length. It is amazing how little damage is done to a boat with just this precaution. SS hallow half round works well too. Then it almost doesn't matter what you use so long as it hold fasteners well. Poplar does.
  23. Varnish and Urethanes are 2 entirely different animals. One is an oil based product, the other is a plastic. There is no such thing as a urethane varnish. Like so many words in the English language the word varnish has been misused to mean any clear coating. As oil based paints have been proven to work well for these boats I would suggest real varnish. It will however add an amber translucent color.
  24. it is the installation contractors fault. He should have used a level. I have installed seats and shelves in tile tubs/showers and I always set them slightly off level to drain.
  25. Interesting question, I never even thought about it. My Lapwing main sprit weighs 4.3# with blocks and chafe gear. It is probably a tad shorter than a CS17. I interpret this to mean mine is still a bit lighter when corrected for length. Mine is DF.
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