Hirilonde

Scarfing seems to intimidate many who have not tried it yet. Most who try, find it easier than they thought, though using a hand plane and/or belt sander does require a bit of familiarity. I found 4 sheets at a time to be the best for me. I line them up staggered by 8 times the thickness. That is, each sheet is set back from the one under it by this 8x the thickness measurement. (1/4", better known as 6 mm sheets are set back 2" or 48 mm) I built a temporary 16' bench for scarfing, gluing and cutting out these large pieces.

There must be at least a half dozen variations on rigging the centerboard on B&B boats. It looks like you have a closed trunk and just an uphaul for the centerboard. If this is so, then you likely have a weighted board as well. If this is so, then a repair underway would be near impossible, but also unnecessary. Sail to the ramp, pull your boat keeping in mind you will have to lift the board manually as you load it. Go home and fix it. There should be a cap on either side of the trunk, probably round, near the bottom and forward. If you remove these caps you will expose the pin the board pivots on. Tap the pin out from one side to the other and the board is free to drop out the bottom. It sounds, and actually is simple, but it sure can be a fiddley thing to do. Make sure to seal the cap, bed it, when you replace it.

I agree, it is a small price to pay to help support the financial burden of this forum and no ads is a great motivator. Frank should not have to bear the burden of the money to run this forum, and I doubt sincerely he is getting rich off this place. This forum is like my subscription to the Washington Post, it is part of my daily reading.

Ads target you, not the forum thread. We may all be seeing different ads, or not.

I have yet to hear of a single epoxy that is completely blush free. This means that what ever brand you choose, it would be wise to wash the epoxy surface before putting anything on top of it. Even better, before you sand and again after. So IMO it doesn't matter at all how much it blushes, I will clean it thoroughly any how.

People come to this forum because of the wealth of knowledge so many members have. Speculation lowers the standard and sometimes misleads. When in doubt, ask questions or do more homework. With all due respect, and I mean it too, I will call people out who present unfounded technical opinions.

Richard Kohler left South Africa earlier today to paddle to Brazil. This is his Facebook page if anyone wants to follow him. https://www.facebook.com/RichardKohlerAdventures/posts/4650154221718749?notif_id=1639752494714733&notif_t=page_followed_contents_awareness&ref=notif

It really is best not to type something if you don't know. A skeptic investigates when in doubt. Same comment as above. And even is so, wipe it off with water.

I found that trailers are built for power boats. I bought one designed for a 14 foot boat. It was designed to have a really heavy hunk of iron on the transom of a 14 foot boat. This turned out to be a perfect balance for a 16 foot boat with no iron on the transom. The only thing I regret is not getting a trailer with the wheels far enough apart for the boat to ride low between them. Being able to reach into the boat on the trailer while standing on the ground is a huge benefit, especially for cleaning up.

I have absolutely no issues with any of the mixes. West System is 5:1 and I am mixing half pump by eye batches all the time with no cure problems. If I were ordering a kit I would buy B&B because of price. I keep my shop stocked with West because I just use it for small projects these days.

My concern with the adapted inflattable PFD would be trying to sail after righting with that thing flopping abound up there.

It is a chemical reaction. Heat is a catalyst for that reaction, and the actual curing generates heat. When I built my Lapwing in a tent in the winter I heated the resin all the time. I have done jobs in the summer where I left the resin jug in a bath of ice water so that when I mixed it I had a little extra time. Epoxy, once mixed, will kick off rather quickly if left in the mixing pot, it will cure more slowly once spread out. Another way to regulate cure time is by choosing fast or slow hardener.

An anchor light does not even have to be on top of the mast at all. Some say it is better to have one closer to the water as it will be seen by boats close by better than if it were up high. I used to hang a miners lamp from my boom over the cockpit on my Renegade.

Heating epoxy may thin it a bit, but it also speeds up the cure. This might be a good thing, or not.

Do you mean a 360° white anchor light? Or a combo red/green/white running lights?

@Paul356 I found that a heat gun worked well on pumps. Just need to be careful not to melt the plastic.

You can't go wrong with West, they wrote the book on epoxy, additives and procedures. But it is expensive. I have tried some TotalBoat products and been satisfied. Haven't tried the epoxy. I bought B&B epoxy, wood flour/Cabosil mix, glass tape and pumps for my builds. Much cheaper and I found no draw backs using it. Dunno who made it, don't really care, it wouldn't mean anything if I did know. If you order the amounts suggested in the plans, from B&B, at the time you order your kit, you will get it in time and end up with a tad left over, unless you are a complete slob, and then probably still have enough to finish.

Just about any B&B sailboat build thread could have useful info. The 4 Spindrifts are so similar that any thread would be good for details to see. I would also start your own thread. You can post progress and ask questions as you go. Specific questions always seem to me to elicit the best information.

Looking things up is better than guessing. https://www.etsy.com/search?q=greenland paddle

It isn't really needed if the oars are stored indoors or under cover. But letting a little oil soak in once in a while can only be positive. And you still have the non-skid of natural wood.

My oars are varnished, except for the grips which have as coat of boiled linseed oil diluted 50% with turpentine. My buttons are teak and eopoxied on and the leathers are sewn over 4 coats of varnish. I am up to 6 coats on all exposed wood cept the grips. What is the damage and what caused it? Do you have leathers to protect the loom from wear at the rowlocks? 7 feet sounds about right for a Spindrift 11. I use 6'5" for my Spindrift 9 and think it is perfect. It is my 3rd pair of oars and the length is based on how the previous 2 pairs felt. edit: I don't ever use epoxy for waterproofing on solid wood.

It is simply discoloration. If it were under paint you would never know or care. I have no idea why it appeared after 2 years, and if it was UV damage, how it got through so much varnish. I do know, that if there were no epoxy it would not have happened. And if varnish discolored, I could easily remove it.

Bristol Finish is as hard to repair as epoxy resin when either it discolors, or physical damage is done. Here is a picture of my transom. It has 3 coats of epoxy and many, many coats of real varnish. The blotches showed up at around 2 years. At that point I had close to 20 coats of varnish. I tried sanding down and hoping the yellowing was in one of the varnish layers, but it was not. I decided to leave it alone. trying to sand through 2 years cured epoxy and not go through the Sapele vener of the transom seemed way too risky. It hasn't gotten any worse, this picture is today. Varnish can be removed with a heat gun and a semi sharp scraper down to the wood easily and safely. 2 part anything is another story. For painted surfaces there is no real issue. Epoxy filler can repair all damage. But when it is supposed to stay bright, it is a different issue.

She got better in the second video. Her recovery in the first video was higher than needed. Yeah, I would enjoy the glide of either boat.