Hirilonde

2023-06-10T09:09:23Z

Are you doiing the sheer strake bright?

The end does come, just not as quickly as we may like. Keep paying attention to the details.

June 1

White and varnish, looks great!

May 30

@Murray - I made birdsmouth masts and didn't want an exposed tube covering the bottom of the mizzen and exposed. It's not really a big deal, just have to be a bit more careful getting the but into the step.

May 30

On 5/26/2023 at 10:52 PM, Murray said:

you're thinking of selling your beautiful craft Dave? Time for a change?

I was trying to sell it as I wasn't using it much. I was hoping to get enough to fund another build, a small, classic, powerboat. In limbo for now.

May 25

On 5/24/2023 at 9:29 AM, Andy B said:

There is also the build-quality issue. I know your boat and this boat are well built because there is a lot of information on them. But if there wasn't a build log somewhere, you don't know that about a random boat listed hundreds of miles from you.

Yeah, that is surely part of it. Many of those who could properly evaluate the boat upon inspection are the same ones who would choose to build there own instead. And those who would buy don't, and probably shouldn't, trust their ability to evaluate a possible purchase.

May 24

First off, is it real Mahogany? (Swietenia) There are many reddish woods labelled Mahogany that really aren't. What type of boat is this? Is the rudder easily removable? Any pictures?

Varnish has absolutely no anti-fouling properties, neither does epoxy. So using either as the final coat below the water line is of no value in that regard.

I would take the rudder off at the dock or mooring, and varnish it. (If that is an option.) Or you could scribe the waterline with the board up, and paint the submerged part, to 2" about the water, and paint that part with anti-fouling paint, or paint the whole thing.

May 24

What surprises me the most are the prices people are getting for well built B&B boats. I followed Wes's build, and he was a perfectionist. I hope he can get his asking price, the boat is worth it. But history shows lower prices are the norm. I have re-evaluated selling my Lapwing for that reason.

April 5

@Murray the compass........................

1. covered

2. uncovered

3. the cover

The picture on cover is Uinen, protector of inland waterways in Middle Earth. The gold runes spell Uinen in Quenya Runes. (Tolkien mythology)

April 4

@Murray this is my drawer.............

It uses a simple U channel on each side, into which a square slide attached to either side of the drawer fits. I used teak for both piece and just oiled it to slide easily. The drawer has a small hole in each corner of the bottom to drain rain water when left outside. I added a toggle to hold it closed. In a capsize, it will stay above water, so good for cell phones, electronic car keys etc..

April 2

@Kennneee The float will keep you from going over to more than horizantel, only your skills can keep you vertical. I couldn't resist the smart ass reply

April 2

5 hours ago, Dnjost said:

On the bright side, my new mast head float should help to keep us vertical and out of Davey Jone's locker.

I doubt it will do that at all.

March 28

@Don Silsbe I appreciate the cost concern. I even sought out used hardware. I will never compromise on main sheet lay out. It is vital to me to relax and enjoy myself as well as a safety issue IMO.

March 28

I knew I would arrange my main sheeting that way before I bought the plans. In any real wind I must have the sheet coming to me so I can either hold it at the ready, or lay it across my leg at the almost instantly ready. Knowing I can dump the main in a split second means I can relax and enjoy myself. This is probably the only detail I disagree with Graham about.

March 27

Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason

March 26

I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious.

I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.

March 26

I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the added weight. Light is faster.

March 6

I can plane my Lapwing in just under 15 kts of wind solo. I start out on a broad reach and hike out as I head up a little and trim in accordingly. I have hiking straps in the aft cockpit.

I believe the Lapwing has less wetted surface than the CS 15. It has a rounded hull and it seems it has more rocker. So I would venture that the Lapwing is faster in light winds.

February 27

I used System 3 for my entire Lapwing except for the deck and transom which are varnished. Because I stored my boat outside on the trailer at the marina where I worked during the summer, it often had a small amount of rain water in the bilge. This caused some pealing of the paint on the inside of the bottom. The System 3 has stood up well every where else. I switched to a 1 part poly for the bilge, and eventually the entire interior.

February 21

I like Baltic Birch plywood for stuff like that. 1/2" or 1/4" depending on what size the items are. I would use phenolic resin glue, aka white, yellow wood glue. It is cheap and more than strong enough.

February 20

2 hours ago, Captain Tim said:

so I should go with 7'6"?

That would be what I would go with based on my past experiences.

February 19

I carved 7' oars for my Spindrift 9. I find them just right. Pete Culler's book says I should make 10 footers for my Lapwing. I find them too long, I think 9' would have been better.

February 11

I have done much the same as Don. Grab my cooler with ice and drinks, maybe some snacks, and off I go. Everything else was stored and ready to go. Even added a drawer under the center thwart/partner for the small stuff.

February 2

I switched numbers after buying the plans. When I ordered my sails I had plans #20. I switched the sail numbers later.

January 29

Take your fenders in you landlubber!

January 27

3 hours ago, Kennneee said:

So far I am really please with her performance. She ghosts along in light air and stands up to her canvas better than I would have expected when the wind pipes up. She is no slouch speed wise. The helm is nicely balanced and easy to steer with very little effort. As expected her lines seem to be a magnet for compliments. I managed to build a paddle a few days before I headed south for close quarters maneuvering but didn’t have time to build oars. I have been using my EPropulsion electric outboard that I borrowed from Rosebud, my Spindrift dinghy. I had hoped to get by with a simple transom mount but the shaft is a bit short for this application. I suppose I will hold my nose and get a commercial mount to bolt on her stern. Either that or get busy building oars and skip the motor all together.

Your assessment of performance is right on. Yeah, the Lapwing makes meeting people at the ramp really easy.

I have yet to find any need for an outboard of any kind. I am patient in very light wind, and as you have noticed, a Lapwing can be moved in them. It all boils down to how often do you expect to be becalmed? And can you row that far (what ever that far is for you), do you want to have to row that far?

There is a freedom not having power on board.

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Events

Gallery

Posts posted by Hirilonde

Important Information