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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. 3 hours ago, Aphers said:



    I'd be very interested to hear what people think might work best, and especially any similar projects that people have already done.

    I'm living on my yacht now, using the Spindrift as my tender, so I have very limited access to workshop facilities etc. My best bet is to keep my ear to the ground as I travel, and hopefully pick up useful stuff as I go, e.g. from dinghy schools.



    It doesn't take much of a shop to build a Spindrift mast to plans.

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  2. When I have to use epoxy in really hot weather, I place the cans/jugs in a water/ice bath before mixing.  This at least gives me a head start. It may be a bit thick in the cold state, but warms very quickly as I spread it out. I don't know if some variation on this cooling idea would help.


    Another thought is to become 2 people, one to roll and one to tip. ?


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  3. I used slats (short pieces of stringer stock) instead of plywood for the bottom. I might change my mind for long trips, but I find them comfortable with no padding.  Each slat gives according to the pressure on it with no hard spots. I have also tried a replacement seat/back rest intended for sit upons.  The seat part is quit thin and the added height to the back rest (over just a back band) is nice for coasting or just sitting to enjoy the views. Unless low makes the combing to high to comfortably paddle over, low is my choice.

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  4. On 6/26/2022 at 11:23 AM, zumwaltd said:

    Graham, I had been tying the halyard to the headboard with a bowline.  I will learn the buntline.  Thanks for your ideas and thanks PadrePoint for the link.





    Quote  from PadrePoint's link:  Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches.

    While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.

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  5. 4 hours ago, Chick Ludwig said:

     The two coats that took so long have plenty of dust settled on/in them. I just ignore it. Maybe later I'll go back and sand it all and add another coat. Looks good from a few feet away. I dunno.

    It's called a non-skid surface.

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  6. 4 hours ago, Scott Pettigrew said:

    For me, wether my Vardo is 30 or 35 lbs is inconsequential considering my current fitness level.  Maybe when I'm older I'll think otherwise. ?

    I agree, and you can do that built to Jeff's specs and using 1/2" Balstic Birch

  7. The way we use plywood to make frames is not at all what plywood was invented for.  I doubt there is any real testing done on it for how we use it. This being said, we know it can work well.  I would think when it comes to resisting the forces to collapse a frame, the Baltic Birch is stronger than Okoume for any given thickness, it is also heavier.  But if I wanted to torture plywood into the shape of a boat, nothing comes close to BS 1088 Okoume plywood. This is a lot like the strip canoes people build, always looking for a way to make them lighter. 


    At what point is lighter not better than the strength sacrificed?

  8. Following up to a reply from long ago regarding PFDs.  Kayak PFDs, because of the high cut back, are also great for small sailboats, as one leans back against a combing in them as well. If you only want to have to own one, the kayak version seems best over all.

  9. I used solid bronze, drilled the holes myself.  I bedded it in BoatLife LifeCaulk as I wanted to be able to remove it easily, which I have done once.  The fasteners have plenty of purchase to hold it in place. UHMW plastic would work well. So would a thin strip of hardwood, it can be sacrificial. Some just do nothing and add a strip of hardwood when the wear dictates this is a good idea. I used brass on my kayaks, I see no reason not to use this on your 2 Paw. If you can build it, you can repair or modify it.

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