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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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The fact that the bedding yellowed tells me it is likely a polysullfide like Lifecaulk or 3M 101. That you can peal it off hints at the same conclusion. There is no easy solution. You have to remove it all if looking good is the goal. I am always suspicious when I see goo in quantity on the outside, exposed. If something is bedded well at installation all ooze out can be cleaned before cure. It serves no purpose if the bedding is done well. It is often an after something failed application.
I suggest removing the toe rail. Removing all old bedding, physically, there are no real solvents that will help. If you are doing any painting, do this next. Then last, re-install the toe rail with new bedding. So what to use? My bedding of choice is the one that yellowed on your boat. But the white just does not look good a ways down the line. Polyurethanes will stay white, but can be a bit tenacious. And some are "obscenely tenacious" , which I am told is a cool name for a boat. I use Sikaflex 291. It is a little more tenacious than I wish, but the least of the polyurethanes, and it stays white. -
I also carry a paddle. It fits into brackets mounted on the port side of the centerboard trunk. For quick maneuvers/ getting away from the dock, it is easier than the oars.
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21 hours ago, Andy B said:
Don, the builder of my CS20, which obviously has more room, installed a removable bench just aft of the mizzen thwart. It rests on some brackets blued in to the sides of the seats. It gives you a foot or so to sit on, and of course doesn't have the hardware that is on the mizzen thwart. He also installed some adjustable footbraces. I can send you some pictures later.
I made a removable seat that fits a bit aft of the mizzen. It was located such that the rowlocks are not in the way of sitting on the side deck while at the helm. The seat fits in a side seat locker. The oars come apart and fit under the side decks when sailing.
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21 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:
If they get a little glue on them, I just heat ‘em up with a soldering gun. That melts the epoxy, and they slide right out.
I used wire both boats. I did my filets and tape right over them, no tack welds. I heated the wires with a torch and pulled them out with pliers. I find the sanding and cleaning that is saved more than worth a little hassle getting the wires out. I sanded/trimmed the edges of the tape. And then I went so far as to do all 3 coats of epoxy as hot recoats and didn't do any sanding till the end. I hate sanding and will go to great lengths to avoid it except when absolutely necessary. I don't skimp on sanding, but I want to be damn sure it is necessary first. If fairing is needed, it will come after epoxy coating.
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13 hours ago, Captain Tim said:
You might fine putting ties in between the ones you have will help pull the bottom together.
Sometimes wire ties work better than plastic zip ties. you can twist them tighter.
This would be my first attempt to repair.
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@Andy B My deck triple fair leads are made of Teak and all I did was varnish. I considered making sleeves out of copper tubing, but haven't really had the need. I did this for the halyard on my Spindrift instead of a block. As I have a luff sleeve. the only real use for the halyard is reefing, and as it is a small mast/sail combo, it works fine raising and lowering for reef and full sail.
Oooh, bronze, I am jealous!- 1
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5 hours ago, Paul356 said:
Ah, but I didn't let the varnish go.
And the epoxy didn't accomplish anything. It was covered in waterproofing with UV protection.
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4 hours ago, Paul356 said:
I did this also on one of my big boats and had the same result: looked good and held up better than just varnish.
No it didn't. Your varnish protected the epoxy. And if you had let the varnish go, you would have had damaged epoxy. The epoxy would be far more work to repair than varnish.
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44 minutes ago, Andy B said:
so if I'm understanding, if you did it again, you wouldn't epoxy the decks even if they are plywood? Because either way you have to keep the varnish up, and the epoxy isn't helping with that?
I don't think I would epoxy. I have a small yellowed spot on my transom of epoxy. I am afraid to try and sand it off as I might go through the outer veneer and totally ruin my transom.
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I never epoxy wood (just plywood). I can think of nothing to gain doing so. I did epoxy the Sapelle plywood deck and transom of my Lapwing before varnish, but not so sure it really helps any. if the varnish is not kept up, the UV will get to the epoxy and yellow it. Repairing this really sucks.
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No, I ended up building a swivel ring to make stepping easier. I have yet to use it. I am 3 weeks out from total hip replacement surgery, so haven't sailed in a while. Hoping to try the new method out this fall or winter.
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I like unique and meaningful names. I went through a soul searching to come up with mine, it was fun. I chose Uinen. She is the protector of inland waterways in Middle Earth. Tolkien mythology.
You're having fun getting the boat in shape. I say building or refitting a boat has to be fun or you need another hobby. Bet you can't wait to sail. Keep having fun, that is what it is all about.- 1
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Brass, bronze and stainless steel are all close on the galvanic scale. I used SS screws for my solid half oval bronze chafe strip along the keel of both of my boats. if you are going to use screws, I would not use 4200 or anything related. Screws and glue do not reinforce each other. I used polysulfide bedding and screws. I can take mine off if I need to. 4200 is obscenely tenacious.
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@Andy B You can route the number into a piece of wood and epoxy it into the boat in some out of the way place where it can still be viewed, like in a locker.
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You seem to be busy already, but I highly recommend a tilt up tiller. If I have company in the aft cockpit, I can duck under the tiller tacking. It also allow access to my aft hatch.
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I would use one screw to locate it properly and snug it down just enough to get squeeze out of the epoxy all around. When cured I would pull the screw and fill all the holes with epoxy, or counter bore the holes and bung using epoxy.
You mention cleaning and sanding, this cannot be over done, it is the key.
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2 hours ago, Andy B said:
- The base support for the mizzen mast is moving a little. I hope it is as easy as unscrewing the six screws, add a small bit of epoxy, and then re-screw. I've never used epoxy before so this should be a good introductory project.
Do you mean the piece that the but of the mast fits into?
If so, it is called the step, or mast step. Mine has no screws, it is simply epoxied in place. Some choose to use a screw to test the location first. Once it is deemed in place, the screw locates it for the epoxy job, and then is removed and the hole filled. Screws and glue do not reinforce each other. If there is a force great enough to break the epoxy then the screws will almost surely fail immediately after. -
There are 25 species of Lapwings. I get intrigued every time I see a good picture of one of them. Just thought Lapwing builders in particular might like this photo of a Crowned Lapwing taken in Kruger National Park, South Africa.................
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My favorite bedding compound for hardware is polysulfides, (3M 101 and LifeCaulk). That being said, they do no work with plastic, like hatches and ports. Closed cell foam tape works, unless the flange is weak, and it scallops when you tighten the fasteners. Polyurethanes work with plastic, but you will probably break the hatch if you try to remove it later, the stuff is tenatious as an adhesive. Butyl is a great choice.
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Thole pins have been used for ages. Some boats had 2, creating a notch. Some used just one forward of the oar to pull against. And some used a line to attach to the thole pin.
Weight is an issue I take seriously for all my boats. I have never glassed a hull or any part of one 'cept the fillets. But I don't worry about rowlock weight.- 1
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Two issues that I see.
1.The strength of the transom and its connection to the hull
2. The rocker in the hull will fight against planing, not sure what the result will be when it tries.
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And it looks perty.
Surgery for me in Aug.. Hopefully get to try mine out in October.
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Have you tried sailing across the sound?
CS-20 MK1 # 36: "Gavia" Restoration
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Until now, when my boat is in my garage, which I air condition when working in the shop, I stored life jackets, cushions, anything that could absorb moisture in my house, hanging up.