Hirilonde
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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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It always seems that those who are doing scarfing for the first time, or only do it once in a while say it is a pain and/or tedious. But once you have a jig, it is down right easy and fast. The rub rails on my Lapwing are 5 pieces each side. This meant I got to use up some small pieces of Teak.
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My 9N's gunwale is completely covered in gunwale guard. I used SS oval head screws with finish washers every 4". 18 years and counting.
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Redwood is really soft and gunwales get banged. I would not use it.
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The plans call for the drain tube for the main mast step to go through the hull. I have mine coming aft through the forward bulkhead and thus draining into the bilge. Either way, it is important to not have standing water in a hiden place.
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As I recall, from almost 20 years ago, the nesting bulkhead to side corners receive 3 layers of tape, unlike all other corner taping. I just made sure to get 3 layers over the bushings at the same time. I had an issue with the outwale trying to release from sides at the nesting bulkhead in one spot. After regluing it, I added a small patch of glass over the end ot the outwale onto the nesting bulkhead. So far so good.
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I would think that foam would trap water between itself and your frames, not quantities, but wet, and stay that way for a while if not longer.
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On 7/30/2023 at 7:19 PM, andy00 said:
Scott:
I haven't seen any sign of chafing on mine. As you note, they fit snugly in the frames. With no movement there is no chafing. Have fun!
Yeah, this. I would make sure you have sanded the inside of the frames where the bags go at least, if not all of them.
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Boatlife Lifecaulk is one of my favorite marine bedding compounds. But it does not work with plastics, nor do any other polysulfides.
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5 hours ago, Paul356 said:
I just got coverage on a "kit"/composite thru progressive, but liability and rescue only, not property damage. I.e., no payment for loss if the boat is damaged. Not sure if that helps you. It was all on line.
Property damage is for the damage you do to other property.
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5 hours ago, Murray said:
I should have asked at the time I saw the post, but I think it was in reference to sitting on the sidedeck, and needing some foot strap arrangement to prevent falling over the side?
Oh, you mean hiking straps. Yes, they were imperative in my boat. You have never seen them in small boats? They allow me not only to sit on the side deck comfortably, but I can hike out thus avoid reefing for another 5 or so knots of wind.
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@Murray I am trying to remember what I meant by foot steps, and I can't. Are you referring to something to make stepping the main mast easier? I'm getting old.
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3 hours ago, Kudzu said:
Matter of fact if you flip on purpose you will tend to slide out.
Untli/unless you learn to roll, and use a skirt, that is a good thing.
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@Scott Pettigrew I used Baltic Birch for my kayaks and BS 1088 Okoume and Sapele for my B&B boats.
I just bought a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Baltic Birch. The price has skyrocketed here in central Florida. I paid $150, and now there are repairs on the finished surface. I checked my old suppliers in RI and the 5x5 is now $137. It does not seem to have repairs in the picture. Well, the BB used to be cheaper.
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The kid is doomed to a life of boating and knowing he can build his own some day.
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On 7/14/2023 at 2:03 PM, Don Silsbe said:
I didn't say it gets fouled, I said it gets fouled air, and it does.
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On 7/14/2023 at 12:49 AM, Murray said:
That's interesting. In the plans he specifies screwing the mast steps as well as gluing. Maybe the screws add sheering strength. I wonder maybe differing coefficients of expansion between the screws and the epoxy could see a joint working over time?
I bet it is to keep the step from moving while the opoxy cures, there is no way to clamp it.
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I made my nesting hardware, but that was before Alan came out with his CNC made HMWP hardware. B&B is the only source I know of. I take it the previous owner used bolts to join the halves?
Have fun finishing things up.
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I have tried several length oars in my Spindrift 9N. For effecient rowing I found 6'-2" to be the best. But for storing under sail they are too long to store comfortably. If I sailed it much I would go for take apart oars. Shorter just isn't acceptable to me.
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9 hours ago, Steve W said:
Does the wind off the main effect it? Seems like it would. I have an indicator on topthe main mast so I don't have to look up quite so high, but it would be better lower.
The only place on a cat/ketch that doesn't get fouled wind is the top of the main mast On top of the stem might be fairly good wind.
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I don't get it. What are the screws supposed to do?
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4 hours ago, Kennneee said:
Sometimes us wood lovers can overdue it and would be better off with more simplicity.
Nope, never, impossible, this is sacrilege!
The WRC looks great.
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The problem with marking each location based on the last one is that any error is carried forward to the rest of the frames. As a former builder, I awlays layed out walls, floors, roofs, from one end.
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On 5/9/2022 at 1:29 PM, Alan Stewart said:
Wow. I would have hoped our boats are worth a lot more than this. I was planning to list mine for 10k with a motor and trailer. Assuming these are actually in good condition these sellers are really losing on these and whoever gets them is getting a heck of a deal. Guess i'll just hold onto mine then.
I took my Lapwing off Craig's List for that very reason.
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I believe the crates are slightly larger than a sheet of plywood, but I would ask Alan and make sure of the exact size.
Cutting Out Panels
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I used a jig saw and on parts with long curves and/or straigh lines I used a circular saw. If you are finishing bright, then fit is really critical and I would cut a tad large and use a block plane to tweak the fit. When using a jig saw use good blades and sharp, even new. I would rather waste a blade then get tear out.