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Posts posted by Hirilonde
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Is the bolt/pin bent? I can't tell from the pic.
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When doing epoxy work in the summer (in RI), I would some times place the jugs of both parts in an ice water bath. I might have to wait a few minutes trying to mix them, till they thinned back out, but it would buy me a little time in the pot life.
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The manufacturers of polycarbonate and acrylic recommend silicone for bedding their products. It is the one time I use the evil stuff. I mask off the adjacent areas to avoid contamination.
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I went with the luff sleeve on my 9N which was a tender. It could be a little amusing raising the mast on a windy day at anchor. The sail shape is fantastic. For absolute convenience, I think slides and track are the way to go. Being able to lower the sail and leave the mast up when staying some where for a couple days would have been nice, or when beaching.
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One can't over state the importance of a dry fit. I will even try a dry clamping if I have any doubt about the actual procedure to see if it works before I slobber everything with epoxy and find out my idea doesn't go together well.
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The West 12 oz., is that weight or volume?
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I left the corners at the mating bulkheads round. As a tender, my Spindrift was going to be banged around a bit, and sharp corners damage easily. And sharp corners damage me easily
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On 1/22/2024 at 8:08 PM, Bryan Rolfe said:
That said, if I was using this as a show boat, or wanted another fun wood working project, I'd probably enjoy making a wooden mast.
I built birdsmouth masts for my Lapwing. They certainly add to the show boat effect, and it was very satisfying to complete them, but I would never use the word fun. Making the tapered staves and gluing all 8 of them together at the same time can only be described as tedious. Making them round was extremely satisfying.
I find the word "fun" does not apply here.- 2
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57 minutes ago, Aphers said:
That's good progress.
Do you plan to sail your Spindrift? I have been using my 11N as my tender full time for over two years and sailing around anchorages is my favourite hobby now.
My 9N was built as a tender for that very reason. Once I was comfortable with my anchor set I would mix a cocktail and take a tour of the harbor and check out the pretty boats, especially the wooden ones.
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Yes to blind screws/fold and 4" spacing. The rowlock socket is 14" aft of the meeting bulkhead. I believe the plans specify location.
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I used polyester over foam gunwale guard. https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/gunwale-guard-polyester-foam-3-4-round--by-ft--14730.html
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I bedded each screw in BoatLife LifeCaulk when installing my gunwale guard. My Spindrift is now 18 years old and has lived 3 seasons outdoors in the water at a dinghy dock and many cruises. I see no sign of damage at all.
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I placed them about a foot inboard of hitting the rowlocks while rowing. They are just to keep from losing the oars if you have to let go, or losing the rowlocks if you are using round ones. I use round ones on my Spindrift. I use Davis rowlocks, which are open on my Lapwing. I have them tethered through the socket, long enough to stow them under the deck while still attached. Rowlocks sink, and easy to lose if not attached to something.
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I am considering adding a tabernacle to my Lapwing. Does B&B sell the plans?
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@Don Silsbe Can't you install the first bulkhead from the cockpit?
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Just in case anyone needs another opinion on silicone; it is pure EVIL!
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I made my own simple clamps for the plank laps and attaching the sheer plank trim. They are simple rectangular U shapes cut from scraps of 3/4 ply. The inside opening of the U was about an inch wide by 6 inches long. You fit it over the lap or trim and lap, then force angle shims to tighten the piece together.
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I applied an ablative bottom paint over scuffed up solvent based LPU and left my Spindrift in the water at a dighy dock for 2 seasons. Nothing but growth which came off with a sponge.
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What is wrong with the brushes?
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23 hours ago, gray duck said:
Yes. You DO NOT want this boat to be heavy. All of us were first time builders and early boats tend to be overbuilt and overweight.
Yup, I didn't even glass the bottom. Easily carrying a dinghy is a big deal to me, and sailing or rowing fast is too.
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I used a jig saw and on parts with long curves and/or straigh lines I used a circular saw. If you are finishing bright, then fit is really critical and I would cut a tad large and use a block plane to tweak the fit. When using a jig saw use good blades and sharp, even new. I would rather waste a blade then get tear out.
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It always seems that those who are doing scarfing for the first time, or only do it once in a while say it is a pain and/or tedious. But once you have a jig, it is down right easy and fast. The rub rails on my Lapwing are 5 pieces each side. This meant I got to use up some small pieces of Teak.
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My 9N's gunwale is completely covered in gunwale guard. I used SS oval head screws with finish washers every 4". 18 years and counting.
Core Sound 17 rope layout for each sail and how it all is suppose to hookup.
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Except for the bell.