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Posts posted by Hirilonde

  1. I used a jig saw and on parts with long curves and/or straigh lines I used a circular saw. If you are finishing bright, then fit is really critical and I would cut a tad large and use a block plane to tweak the fit. When using a jig saw use good blades and sharp, even new.  I would rather waste a blade then get tear out.

  2. It always seems that those who are doing scarfing for the first time, or only do it once in a while say it is a pain and/or tedious.  But once you have a jig, it is down right easy and fast. The rub rails on my Lapwing are 5 pieces each side. This meant I got to use up some small pieces of Teak.

    • Like 1
  3. The plans call for the drain tube for the main mast step to go through the hull. I have mine coming aft through the forward bulkhead and thus draining into the bilge.  Either way, it is important to not have standing water in a hiden place.

  4. As I recall, from almost 20 years ago, the nesting bulkhead to side corners receive 3 layers of tape, unlike all other corner taping.  I just made sure to get 3 layers over the bushings at the same time. I had an issue with the outwale trying to release from sides at the nesting bulkhead in one spot.  After regluing it, I added a small patch of glass over the end ot the outwale onto the nesting bulkhead.  So far so good.

    • Like 1
  5. 5 hours ago, Paul356 said:

    I just got coverage on a "kit"/composite thru progressive, but liability and rescue only, not property damage.  I.e., no payment for loss if the boat is damaged.  Not sure if that helps you.  It was all on line.

    Property damage is for the damage you do to other property.

  6. 5 hours ago, Murray said:

    I should have asked at the time I saw the post, but I think it was in reference to sitting on the sidedeck, and needing some foot strap arrangement to prevent falling over the side?

    Oh, you mean hiking straps.  Yes, they were imperative in my boat. You have never seen them in small boats? They allow me not only to sit on the side deck comfortably, but I can hike out thus avoid reefing for another 5 or so knots of wind.

  7. @Scott Pettigrew I used Baltic Birch for my kayaks and BS 1088 Okoume and Sapele for my B&B boats.


    I just bought a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Baltic Birch.  The price has skyrocketed here in central Florida.  I paid $150, and now there are repairs on the finished surface. I checked my old suppliers in RI and the 5x5 is now $137. It does not seem to have repairs in the picture. Well, the BB used to be cheaper.

  8. On 7/14/2023 at 12:49 AM, Murray said:

    That's interesting. In the plans he specifies screwing the mast steps as well as gluing.  Maybe the screws add sheering strength.  I wonder maybe differing coefficients of expansion between the screws and the epoxy could see a joint working over time?

    I bet it is to keep the step from moving while the opoxy cures, there is no way to clamp it.


  9. 9 hours ago, Steve W said:

    Does the wind off the main effect it? Seems like it would. I have an indicator on topthe main mast so I don't have to look up quite so high, but it would be better lower. 


    The only place on a cat/ketch that doesn't get fouled wind is the top of the main mast  On top of the stem might be fairly good wind.

  10. On 5/9/2022 at 1:29 PM, Alan Stewart said:

    Wow. I would have hoped our boats are worth a lot more than this. I was planning to list mine for 10k with a motor and trailer. Assuming these are actually in good condition these sellers are really losing on these and whoever gets them is getting a heck of a deal. Guess i'll just hold onto mine then. 

    I took my Lapwing off Craig's List for that very reason.

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