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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. It's going to be a while before I can give my swivel collar a proper test. My arthritis is getting worse, and it looks like a hip replacement is coming soon.
  2. I don't think it is being persnickety. Sailboats have a long vocabulary of pieces and parts. It makes discussions like this more precise if we all know or are learning the words. I find it fascinating as a subject as well. Next we can discuss ceiling and floors
  3. Will do Don. I think the greatest stress will occur taking the mast down. That is the most difficult thing to control without a swivel/collar or what ever we end up calling these things. For the main mast I have to lean forward over the fore dech, lift the mas to just out of the tube before lowering. At this point my hands as the closest to the pivot, hence the greatest lever arm force. When raising I start at the mid point of the mast and move down as the mast goes up. So not quite the same ratio until the mast is almost up. Like everything about sailboats, I am sure there is a learning curve for using this thing.
  4. I have made my collar, test installed it, and tested it using the mast support that goes in the main mast tube for trailering. I used this mast support to line up the collar for installation. The hole in the collar is 3 1/4" and my mast is just a hair under 3" (My mast tube is a 3" ID PVC pipe). When my mast is up, it will not contact the inside of the collar at all. The wood is Sapelle, to match my deck. The collar is 2 layers, each with the grain 90° from the other. I will give the pieces a couple coats of varnish before final installation. Then the collar can be removed for more varnishing. I tighten the bolts to barely snug. They nuts shouldn't move, I used nylok nuts.
  5. Because my mast will be able to slip into the mast tube as I get to vertical, I don't think I need a stop. I think that once you get your mast near vertical you can twist it to slip through the key hole and it will drop onto the thwart, just forward of lining up with the hole, then slip in as you go vertical. The force on your stop piece might be huge as the fulcrum is just a few inches from the bottom, and many feet from the top.
  6. I made this collar to help foot the mast as I raised it. I think it will work for a stop while using the swivel. I may have to extend it a bit, we sill see.
  7. I like it. I have been pondering such a thing for some time now. That looks like you are on track.
  8. I use shackles for my halyards and I tie my sheets on with a bowline.
  9. The fact that the padeyes are painted white, and the paint isn't chipped, I would say they have not been used. All I can think of is for the block for a burgee/penant halyard.
  10. When doing epoxy work in the summer (in RI), I would some times place the jugs of both parts in an ice water bath. I might have to wait a few minutes trying to mix them, till they thinned back out, but it would buy me a little time in the pot life.
  11. The manufacturers of polycarbonate and acrylic recommend silicone for bedding their products. It is the one time I use the evil stuff. I mask off the adjacent areas to avoid contamination.
  12. I went with the luff sleeve on my 9N which was a tender. It could be a little amusing raising the mast on a windy day at anchor. The sail shape is fantastic. For absolute convenience, I think slides and track are the way to go. Being able to lower the sail and leave the mast up when staying some where for a couple days would have been nice, or when beaching.
  13. One can't over state the importance of a dry fit. I will even try a dry clamping if I have any doubt about the actual procedure to see if it works before I slobber everything with epoxy and find out my idea doesn't go together well.
  14. The West 12 oz., is that weight or volume?
  15. I left the corners at the mating bulkheads round. As a tender, my Spindrift was going to be banged around a bit, and sharp corners damage easily. And sharp corners damage me easily
  16. I built birdsmouth masts for my Lapwing. They certainly add to the show boat effect, and it was very satisfying to complete them, but I would never use the word fun. Making the tapered staves and gluing all 8 of them together at the same time can only be described as tedious. Making them round was extremely satisfying. I find the word "fun" does not apply here.
  17. My 9N was built as a tender for that very reason. Once I was comfortable with my anchor set I would mix a cocktail and take a tour of the harbor and check out the pretty boats, especially the wooden ones.
  18. Yes to blind screws/fold and 4" spacing. The rowlock socket is 14" aft of the meeting bulkhead. I believe the plans specify location.
  19. I used polyester over foam gunwale guard. https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/gunwale-guard-polyester-foam-3-4-round--by-ft--14730.html
  20. I bedded each screw in BoatLife LifeCaulk when installing my gunwale guard. My Spindrift is now 18 years old and has lived 3 seasons outdoors in the water at a dinghy dock and many cruises. I see no sign of damage at all.
  21. I placed them about a foot inboard of hitting the rowlocks while rowing. They are just to keep from losing the oars if you have to let go, or losing the rowlocks if you are using round ones. I use round ones on my Spindrift. I use Davis rowlocks, which are open on my Lapwing. I have them tethered through the socket, long enough to stow them under the deck while still attached. Rowlocks sink, and easy to lose if not attached to something.
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