Hirilonde

Buff is a classic deck color, light enough to not get hot, color enough to avoid glare, looks great against varnished wood and doesn't look busy, even as a 3rd color.

Because no one has mentioned it, Culler, and others use the beam of a boat to determine oar length.

@Don Silsbe According to Pete Culler, oars for my Lapwing are supposed to be 10'. I can see where that might be right for a boat designed for rowing. But as an auxilliary I would make them 9' if I did it again. I used carbon connectors to make them into 2 pieces for storing. They go under the side deck and this puts them outside of the combing, so sitting is not encumbered. I like everything about my set up except that I would make them a little shorter.

Have you used your oars? Since you own them, why not? I used Cullers specs for the oars for my Lapwing. They might have been a good design for a boat designed to row, but I found them too long for use as auxiliary. Definitely check out resources such as Paul linked, but keep in mind that you aren't a rower, but a sailor who wants a plan b.

B&B builders are getting older, well, some of us are. I remember him from the 1st Messabout. Sat in the cockpit of his Princess chatting for a while. Seems all chats with him lasted a while, not complaining. I will remember him.

When solo, I set right up near the center thwart/mizzen. When I have 1 other, they are in the foreward cockpit. In light air, I will sit foreward of the mizzen using the hiking stick, and if a passenger, they are foreward as well As Alan points out, keeping the transom out of the water is key. And if really light winds, healing the boat over to lee and foreward reduces wetted surface while helping the sails keep shape ready for the next puff.

I built 3 B&B boats, lofting the 2 stitch and glue ones myself, and spiling the planks of the Lapwing myself. There is a rather dimented satisfaction in doing so, but if I were to do it again I think I would get over it.

As a basic rule I sheet in my main to just inside the gunwale and then the mizzen comes in more. This opens the slot and increase wind speed through it. I set the main first, then tweak the mizzen till the tell tales stream smoothly. Sail shape is based on wind speed. In light winds it is easy to stall to weather by sheeting in too much or over flattening the sails. As to reefing, I find that the easiest decision to make. If I can't keep the boat flat, or near flat most of the time I reef. In a gust I sheet the main out a tad and dump some wind rather than feather up too much. This keeps the boat driving through waves. In really light winds I move way forward and to lee to reduce wetted surface area and the heel helps keep sail shape ready for the next puff of wind. I am always testing the wind, from falling off a tad much to feathering up a tad much, always looking for the sweet spot.

He was a great contributor to this forum. It was his concept that became my favorite B&B design, the Lapwing. He will be missed and remembered.

Don, they mix Eastern White Pine and Southern Yellow Pine together? If so, then yeah, use the SYP.

Andy B, the drawings might all be exaggerations, but it does make the entry into the wind more fair.

Found this picture on line, just thought is was a good way to show the differences.

I didn't glass any of my boats, I like light weight. But if I were to glass a nesting boat I would cut it in half first. This way you can wrap the bottom onto the nesting bulkheads as well as the transom and sides.

If I want hardware to be removable I use polysulfide, 3M 101 or Boatlife Lifecaulk. If I want the bond permanent I use 3M 4200/5200. If it has to be white and I want it removable, I use Sikaflex 291 LOT. Sikaflex is a polyurethane like 4200, but not quite as tenacious. Polysulfides in white tend to yellow over time.

I did, it works like a bushing and the mast rotates smoothly.

It was 10 years ago, but I believe I made the block for the step bigger than in the plans to deal with the wall issue.

I made 3" or 76mm birdsmouth wooden masts for my lapwing. I just made the step a little bigger with a bigger hole. Just make sure you located it according to center as everything else is now different.

Look into dock fendering. There are lots of different shapes. You may need to find a dock hardware specialty supplier. I have had fabric over foam continuous fendering on my 9N for 19 years, still no mildew.

I don't know if anyone here can help you. But as this is a boating question, you are welcome to post.

I don't remember how I located the partner when I built mine, it was 10 years ago. But when I hook my tape over the stem, and measure aft to the center of the partner, I get 20 1/2". The step is then located using the mast tube through the partner and the 1 in 20 ratio forward of plumb to height above step.

2 and 3 color combinations can look great. Or maybe white with 2 accent colors. I would not use brown. As a purist I would use varnish or just not have a wood look. My Spindrift is white with seafoam green interior, dark green boot top and grey sole and bottom. I did varnish the seats and boom, but they never stay outside even when I kept it at the dinghy dock.

I cut my stringers out of 8/4. By doing so I made flat sawn into quarter sawn. This also meant no waste 'cept for the sawdust.

Yup, just make sure to remove the leads to avoid any discharge.

That is what a professional would have to get to justify a business and it's expenses. People pay more than that for a Fatty Knees. I wish we could get what are boats are worth. Few of us ever will.

A friend even uses a belt sander? I do it with a hand plane and a belt sander!