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Action Tiger

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Everything posted by Action Tiger

  1. It’s the concentration and inhalation of epoxy vapors which causes it, Graham. We all get it, to a certain extent. It’s an enhancer, so sort of intensifies the latent personality. I, for example, am practically unintelligible after a session of pox huffing. I talk more in spirals than circles, and I speed WAY up. Sort of a chipmunk affair, but much less entertaining. Peace, Robert
  2. The sticks are well on their way, Don. The flappy cloth things, though... Actually, we were discussing yesterday that we need to roll the boat out of the garop and step the masts pretty soon, to check it all out and take some final measurements to determine where things will go, like the control lines. Exciting stuff! Peace, Robert P.S. just so you don’t all think I just nap all day, here’s a few shots of the pedal car I’m building, too.
  3. Here’s a side/front and a rear view of the top. The hold down bolts and cleats are visible. The cleats will do double duty and hold the cloth cover when using the open slot configuration. The mizzen mast step and cockpit are almost done, and when they are, I’ll drag her out in the open and step the masts. This is getting real... Peace, Robert
  4. Using plastic sheet or peel ply, I never need fill coats. I use the plastic sheet especially when doing repairs, because I can see through it. The solid plastic sheet forces all the resin to fill the weave. If you saturate well, and squeegee the plastic sheet (or peelply) all over, the resin will fill the weave, and when the plastic comes off there is a smooth, flat surface. No weave to fill. Peace, Robert
  5. For vertical glassing, I would (have, actually, a fair bit, and between stringers, too...): 1) precut the glass piece 2) put it on plastic sheet 3) saturate and well squeegee the cloth 4) wet area on hull to be clothed with some neat resin 5) roll wet out glass onto a mandrel. A closet rod work wonderfully. 6) roll wet glass off mandrel onto transom, using a brush/roller to press it down, then squeegee like normal It takes all the drama out, and you can ensure everything is well saturated without panic and with few drips. Using plastic sheet or real peel ply over top will,ensure a smooth, blush free surface you won’t have to sand or feather before the next step... Peace, Robert
  6. Well, I was very concerned my boat would compliment Oaracle. That’s a pigment joke. Joke, I say. About colors. Harhar. Peace, Robert
  7. There is the perfect amount of room to hinge the hatch all the way flat against the deck, and secure it with the same hold downs that keep it closed from inside. On the second try... Peace, Robert
  8. There will be a halyard “crane” on the aft side of the mast with an athwart ship sheave. The yard and boom will go on on the outboard side of her mast , which will JUUUST allow the downhaul to be lead outside the main coaming to a block on a pad on the house top. Yeah, I plan on lazyjacks, which with the tiny mizzen should allow easy reefing of the main. From either hatch, the mast is easy to reach, should the need arise. I am afraid the hatch makes her a bit too “normal” but we’ll only use the hatch cover when adventuring, same as the mizzen. I’m hurrying! Peace, Robert
  9. Alex, I thought long and hard about that. Obviously, I’ve studied Gary’s boat a bit, via the web, and have read and watched most of what I could find. His adventures actually inspired the boxed in cockpit, and sort of hardened my resolve about the cover. I decided, rightly or wrongly, that when the cover is on, I want it ON! Hehe. Seriously, though, I don’t want ANY chance of it coming open during a potential capsize. We will probably use the boat as often without the cover as with, but when it’s on, I want it on. It won’t have any draconian bolts or weirdness, but some double duty straps that will accept hold down bolts and/or bows to hold up the soft top. That’s why the substantial boot ring, large gutters around the fore hatch, and the turtle deck type companion slide. I want the cover to perform as much like a “normal” boat as possible. The hardest part, so far, is getting drop board slides that will work for the hatch, but not be overly intrusive when the slot is open. The hatches will both be acrylic, by the by, to allow in light. It’s dark and spooky in there! Hehe. By the by, I think it would be super cool to sail in company with Oaracle, especially as mine own Frolic is so orange. Haha. Peace, Robert
  10. Alex, The boat has a “birdwatcher” style slot top, as designed, which is, essentially, an open hallway down the center of the cabin. For adventure sailing, I wanted to have a solid cover for the slot top. To whit, this slot top hatch was built. When in use, it will be solidly bolted down, acting as a “normal” cabin top. The forward end will have a hinged opening hatch, and the aft will have a sliding hatch that slides into a turtle hatch or “garage” (both acrylic, to keep it light below decks). The mast will be stepped through the hole on deck (the offset square hole) and a boot will be tied around the mast and collar on deck. The mast itself will stay stepped the entire time afloat, no matter what, but if need be, it can be lifted out of the mast hole. The main mast isn’t all that heavy, really. Without the hard top, the mast will simpler to step, for sure, but not too much. Peace, Robert
  11. The inside with new hatch cover that needs finished, the slot top cover that ain’t quite done, and the boom outhaul roughed in... Peace, Robert
  12. What did you call me? I did build a proa once, actually. I kept being in the wrong place, though. Ahem. Now I aim to build a canoe with two training boats. Them I can just stay right in the middle. Haha. I need to get some pictures of this new top and the inside hatch, but it’s cold and wet out there. Peace, Robert
  13. The kids want a trimaran. Who am I to say no? They were after a certain model, but we’ve since decide not to build that’un. Well, some really smart boat designer told us to not to, but in so many words. Some kid who sailed some canoe somewhere or somesuch. Yeah, were doing one from scratch, Dude. A little mouse and I are designing one. Really, I am doing the work, and the mouse runs the computer. I don’t get along with computers, but those softwares are handy little blobs of blips. Now, mind, too, almost all these boats I fart around with are just silly little additions to our armada. Or go live with the somone who really wanted a boat just like that, but wouldn’t ask... The “action” comes from one time when I actually did stuff. I’m sure I never mentioned the footy sailboats, right? Peace, Frozen Tiger
  14. Dang, and thanks for the nice compliment PAR. I forgot to mention that, but your kind words were not lost on me. I wondered why my hat felt odd, and when my ears brushed the door jamb on my way out, I suspected what the mirror confirmed. My head was swollen up! Now that I’ve thanked you, I can convince myself you were just being polite, and go try and live up to the compliment. Peace, Still Chilly, But The Sun’s Out!
  15. Paul, You nailed it! There is one brand of epoxy that’s like poison oak to me. The mere mention of the name makes me break out all itchy. I know now it was from “green” dust, which is to say sanding dust from hardened but not cured epoxy. The new stuff don’t seem to bother me, but I also wait a looooong time before I fool with it. Dust is one thing, but dust that’s as live as the liquid was is a whole nother ball of cheese. And, again, the heater is an awesome idea. I use a small heated, insulated, “room” to cure paint on small made items, which I often make under a deadline. Sort of a small kiln or oast, really, it it’s in an attached room, and ain’t near big enough for a 20’ boat. Haha. I was just in a room the other day that is 70* and 30% humidity year round, and they can change those numbers at will. Sigh. Still, I’m not sure I’d want their power bill. The temperature in the garop fluctuates more than, well, a fluctuating thing. Haha. I have been thinking of building a new garop from straw bales. Well, we can’t have everything... Good news, though. I already have plans for the next “big” build after this. Well, not “plans”, but we’re drawing them...:) Peace, Robert
  16. PAR, Once someone who’s professional opinion I respect told me epoxy takes a week or more to fully cure, I’ve not been in ANY rush to disturb the fresh stuff. I got sensitized to famous brand, and I now think it was the sanding dust that did it. I had no problems with the stuff I was using, but I recently had to switch brands, and I’m still a little scared of the new stuff getting me. I am really cautious about epoxy. And, as long as the temp doesn’t drop below 50* during the cure, I’m fine waiting for it. The goop will finish curing fine above 50*, and I don’t even TOUCH newly laid epoxy for a week after it’s down, minimum. I got a few more boats to build that require epoxy, and I want to be able to keep using it. Besides, best to stack up projects like this and glass them all in one go, to me. Which is a long winded, roundabout way of saying the heat lamps are a good tip, for a less chicken person than me. Peace, Robert
  17. Wow. That is one of the most beautiful, wonderful things ever. What must they think of us? Thank you so much for sharing this. Peace, Robert
  18. Yar. Butcept my garop is about 30’ square, uninsulated, and drafty as all get out. Oh, and the electrical plug thing. Yeah, not so much. And, did I mention drafty? There must be 4,000 vents in the soffits. But it’s all mine! Well. Except for the shelves I built lining two walls to store all the that need storing. Besides, this is California. It’ll be overnights of 50 next week. Hehe. Peace, Robert
  19. Haha. I actually started with a scraper, cause I figured it would b easier. Wrong! That stuff is stuck down, and tough. Maybe the single part polyurethane porch and floor ain’t so,different from the single part polyurethane boat stuff, eh? I am so close to actually sailing this dumb thing finally, and we get a cold snap. 33 ain’t epoxy weather, and my garop is uninsulated and unheated. No glue, no paint, no epoxy... It is sad, because I made all the part, so I can’t even futz away the time, anymore... Ah well, come first overnight low of 50 and it’s glass on! A few choose pieces to stick, then paint... Peace, Robert
  20. That water based porch and floor should just come right off with this 36 grit paper, right? Right? I forgot I’d need to glue somewhat on the side, here. Oops! Hehe. Peace, Robert
  21. Here is the thing to hold the thing on the side. This is the upper thing, and it gets glued and through bolted to the rail. The quality of this ply is atrocious, so I HAVE to glass this bit. This nasty luaun “marine” ply is really gross stuff. Splintery as all get out! Anyway. Once this cold snap passes, I can get some glass on the last few spots, and this boat will be done save a little paint! Peace, Robert
  22. Chick, Unfortunately, when I say pedal car, I don’t mean one of those pedal cars we all know and love. This one rides on 700c (“10 speed”) wheels, using custom made steering arms. It’s wood framed, and has external chain drive to both rear wheels, like an old Edwardian race car. It has a custom drive based on levers rather than spinning pedals, and a skin on frame body. I can’t imagine why it’s taken so long to figure out... Peace, Robert P.S. For the flying bridge, you can just use a whipstaff to steer. No need for all the complication. Hehe. Boat looks good, man. P.P.S. Yes, trimaran. Daughter wants to build one to sail with her softball team, and then I decided I needed to design my own. That’s normal, right?
  23. That’s why me and Chick is friends... Hehe. Did I mention the trimaran forming in my head? Peace, Robert P.S. Yes, I always do like 400 things at once. Don’t even ask about the pedal car...
  24. I. LOVE. You. Guys! Thank you all, for being you all, and for allowing me to be me. I am so close to done with this sucker. Whoo! Peace, Robert
  25. Sweet. I will find out what it is, and let you know “what it is”.Haha. Peace, Robert
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