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Everything posted by Jknight611
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Thanks Don, it was so “Restrained” it was only going where we wanted it to! A neighbor has cattle and a big JD tractor with a round bale spike on a front end loader, unloading will be easier but for the next few days it is resting comfortably in the trailer.
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Going to be equally interesting to get it out!
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Bones, invalid address Jay jknight611@earthlink?net
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Well, another Messabout is in the books, so many heartfelt thanks to Joe an Sally, Graham, Allen, Nate and everyone that got in on “THE BIG POUR”. Heading home tomorrow with a perfectly poured lead keel for Matt, plus a full trailer of next build items. Everyone here knows it but B&B go way beyond!! now, back home and my regularly scheduled sanding. Jay
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Seaya there!
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About time to update the Mather Flinders build. It has been an easy build so far, a lot of the build is done from the floor, not climbing in and out of the boat. The kit is incredibly accurate, I have used a block plane to fit a few panels but generally it all fits perfectly. The interior panels all have their first 2 coats of epoxy, and I have a date with my sanders after this year’s Messabout for another coat rolled on. Most of the cleats, carlins, and inwales are either installed or are ready to install. All the “horizontal “ surfaces are laying in place but not glued yet. All the plumbing is roughed in and conduit is dry fit for wiring stuff. Picking up a bunch if stuff at this year’s Messabout but there is enough stuff installed to get a feel of the cabin size, and it is “just right”. Just realized some of the photos are several weeks of “progress “ back, hope to be at the 2020 Messabout!
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Hi all, we traditionally sail our CS20.3 before and after the Messabout but this year..... she will be resting beside her big sister, (brother?) while we solicit B&B expertise pouring the lead keel for Mathew Flinders. probably should resurrect the Flinders thread with some fresh pictures.
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Build of CS20MK3 HULL # 24 by Mark Rendelman
Jknight611 replied to Mark Rendelman hull 24's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
Gravel in the buckets looks like it works good, I filled a bunch of food grade buckets with fancy O ring lids with water, and you know what happened. 10 buckets, one failure. 5 gallons is a lot of water! -
Core Sound 20 Mk3 #23 - Williamsburg, VA
Jknight611 replied to Todd Stein's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
Me too, I tried to dye my epoxy white for the water tanks on the boat I am currently building. Didn’t work for squat! On my Core Sound I bought Sherwin Williams paint called Tile Clad to paint the under deck areas, it is epoxy based 2 part and it 4 years of hard play still looks good. I am going to paint several areas on Mather Flinders with Tile Clad, good stuff. -
A picture is worth a thousand words, particularly on this topic, I will roll my boat out tomorrow and raise the masts and snap some photos. I never go forward to reef, by the time it occurs to me to reef, the foredeck or forward hatch isn’t where my plump butt needs to be! Gravity likes me enough that if solo, my weight that far forward really upsets the stability. This is the 27th version of my reefing system and it seems to work the best of the previous 26 attempts. If I sheet the mizzen down tight on centerline, board full down, it just kinda gives up and stays bow on the wind. The mizzen is easy to reef, standing forward of the mizzen tabernacle. Photos tomorrow if it would help anyone.
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Steve the boat looks great, and I see it sails beautifully too! We have removed our gps on Southern Express, the mast head wind indicator seems to be much more accurate, always points to the destination! My reefing “system” is very similar to what Paul said... my criteria was to be able to reef the boat standing in front of the mizzen tabernacle. The main has 3 downhauls at the mast then ran to the port cabin top. The main halyard has one red thread woven through it for one reef, so I release the main to one thread at the cleat on the cabin top then pull the reefing line, followed by the first reefing line (green tracer) on the sprit, the second reef is the same (except for 2 red threads woven through the halyard) and a red reefing line on the leech. I have only reefed to the second reef on the main once. All my reefing lines have “S” hooks and stay attached to the sprit to be quickly hooked to the kringles on the clew. The “S” hooks hook to the luff kringle as the sail is fed into the track. Only one downhaul on the mizzen clew, easy to move it up as you reef, still the same 2 lines with “S” hooks for the mizzen leach . I made little bags for the reefing line to be stored in when we trailer, other wise after a brief trailer ride the reefing lines become macrame! Hope that gives you an idea of our “ sail reduction system “ I reef the main pretty soon, the boat (and Carol) likes the boat to stand up.
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Your boat looks great! I really like your anchor roller, I have a Ronca anchor and you look like you have the best anchor roller. I believe it would work perfectly on the Mathew Flinders. I leave the sprits with the mast, I use several pieces of pipe insulation to isolate the sprits from the mast. We have trailered our boat likely 20,000 miles with no ill effects I can see. It does make rigging ridiculously quick and I never found a really suitable spot for the unattached sprits. I made a zip on cover that covers both masts, keeps the reefing lines from becoming a big rats nest. I leave the battens in the sail and just zip the sail into the same sail cover we use......well as a sail cover.
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Molding center board tip HELP
Jknight611 replied to Mark Rendelman hull 24's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
Hi Mark, when we poured the one for my boat, we built plywood the mold “vertically “. Put a layer of green sand then held the wooden mold in sand vertically adding sand layer at a time. Pack the sand with a wooden dowel and hammer as you continue to fill the mold. Once the mold is full, packed as tight as possible. Then pull the wooden pattern from the sand. Make darn sure the sand is dry then pour the molten lead into the mold. It was surprisingly smooth, it took very little prepping afterwards to bond it to the bast of the centerboard. -
Joe, looks fantastic! Thanks for the photos
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Mark, the centerboard is the tool that helps ya go upwind. Not sure why you want it bright, the only time I see mine is maybe once a year when I drop it for a visual inspection. ( I use it to pinstripe the Gulf of Mexico ).
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Well, I use topping lifts, so convenient when we reef, just harden the topping lift, let the halyard drop to the marks on the halyard then pull the reefing lines, release the topping lift, then tidy up the sail as you wish. Prevents the sail gathering in the cockpit while you reef without the topping lift holding the sprit up. When we trailer, I pull the sprits to the top of the mast with the topping lifts, then pull the snotter tight to hold the sprit parallel the masts. Once the masts are lowered and in their crutches, a couple pieces of foam pipe insulation prevents chafe with several bungee cords. We trailer with the sprits in place, and use the sailcovers to keep the sails protected in the cabin. All the reefing lines remain on the sprits or mast, and a full length cover over the masts and sprits help prevent the reefing lines from becoming a macrame class.
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Fantastic Steve and Family! Just gets better from here on! Ya got a great boat!
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Congratulations Steve! Looking forward to seeing the video! Fun times ahead!
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Looks like he is making good time!
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Mark, so far the only resemblance I noticed is they are both cat-ketch rigged sailboats! I hope it performs similar to our CS20.3!
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Thru the hull plastic fittings
Jknight611 replied to Mark Rendelman hull 24's topic in B & B Yachts Forum
Mark, I have a ski boat ballast pump in the port lazarette my CS20.3 with a 3/4 inch bronze thru hull the aft port side of the centerboard case. I also have a 3 way diverter valve in the locker with a small hose to rinse the cockpit and clean the occasional fish. 4 years later still working fine. I plumbed it with pvc pipe but if I did it over I would consider pex, to eliminate some fittings. The gentle bends of the pex probably flow better too. I didn’t use a thru hull shut off valve, seemed to be overkill. Where my intake port is there is so little hydrostatic pressure, and if it totally failed the locker might get 4 inches of water in it, didn’t seem necessary. I do have to watch using the centerboard as a depth sounder, it gets muddy then the ballast tank gets muddy and it is I PIA to clean out. -
Welcome Mark, I think you made a good choice! The MK3 series are fantastic boats, and the kits give an advantage because of their incredible accuracy. Hope you enjoy the build.
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Here is the current photos of the Mathew Flinders, we have been working intermittently for about 3 weeks, all the bulkheads are fileted and taped into place, the head bulkheads are just sitting in place (well almost in place!). A very gentlemanly way to build a boat, standing on the outside reaching in! The “rollbar” is part of the building jig, the inner skin of the cabin will sit on top of the jig, so at 6’3” I have an incredible amount of headroom. To show scale, Carol is standing in the galley.
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The centerboard molds will be returned to B&B at the Messabout, totally reusable.
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I can appreciate the heat, we are building Graham’s new design and it has been over 100 degrees in our shop daily. But it is a moist heat, about mid 90% humidity levels. So my productivity is way down too! Looking forward to seeing both both you and your boat at the Messabout!