Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Jknight611

  1. No, but I have considered a sun room instead of a quarter berth! The huge laserett is on the port side, building some shelving in there to prevent the “toss it in the bottom “ syndrome.
  2. If anyone wants to build a Mathew Flinders, I have an extra starboard hatch ring....... The port cockpit seat is the only hatch we will have in the cockpit, and it is tapered more narrow in the stern. I set up last night to build the hatch and ring, taking care to get them correct, the only thing I can imagine is a neighbor slipped in and swapped them! Oh well, not the first project to have too many parts for one side and not enough for the other side!
  3. Ya know building a boat, sometimes the obvious isn’t so obvious. When I started building Matt, I had a small container of sheetrock screws, needed more, I bought more......if ya do this, be certain, no very certain you buy screws with the same head pattern. Dragging my feet, the deck panels are prepared, the carlins and inwales are ready to accept the deck. This next week I am building drawer boxes and other fiddly stuff waiting on the ah ha moment when I realize what ever won’t fit now with the cabin top or deck installed!
  4. Where I live, that much Sneaux would have schools closed for a week !
  5. Hi Steve, your boat looks great, sorry you couldn’t make the Messabout, hope to see it and you at next year. The pump is a Johnson Pump F4B-11 Ski Boat Ultra Ballast Pump. It has worked fine for 4 years now. I put the inlet in the centerboard trunk, and it has worked good, except when you pinstripe with the centerboard, mud gets in the tank and it is a PIA to clean the tank out. It is terribly noisy if you mount it directly to a bulkhead, turns the boat into a sounding rod, I used some Lord brand rubber mounts on my second iteration, better. I used pvc on Southern Express, but if I were doing it again I think the PEX would flow better. A perfect time to use the ballast pump as a cockpit wash down pump and water ballon filler with a simple 3 way valve.
  6. Nice job! The gasket on the centerboard slot looks like a good idea, if just as a mud squeegy. My water intake on my CS20.3 for my ballast pump is in the centerboard trunk, it seems to work well till I just barely tapped the centerboard into that famous gray sticky clay, must have gathered a pound or so of mud which promptly glued my centerboard in the up position and filled my ballast tank with some really foul smelling sticky mud.
  7. Thanks Don, it was so “Restrained” it was only going where we wanted it to! A neighbor has cattle and a big JD tractor with a round bale spike on a front end loader, unloading will be easier but for the next few days it is resting comfortably in the trailer.
  8. Going to be equally interesting to get it out!
  9. Bones, invalid address Jay jknight611@earthlink?net
  10. Well, another Messabout is in the books, so many heartfelt thanks to Joe an Sally, Graham, Allen, Nate and everyone that got in on “THE BIG POUR”. Heading home tomorrow with a perfectly poured lead keel for Matt, plus a full trailer of next build items. Everyone here knows it but B&B go way beyond!! now, back home and my regularly scheduled sanding. Jay
  11. About time to update the Mather Flinders build. It has been an easy build so far, a lot of the build is done from the floor, not climbing in and out of the boat. The kit is incredibly accurate, I have used a block plane to fit a few panels but generally it all fits perfectly. The interior panels all have their first 2 coats of epoxy, and I have a date with my sanders after this year’s Messabout for another coat rolled on. Most of the cleats, carlins, and inwales are either installed or are ready to install. All the “horizontal “ surfaces are laying in place but not glued yet. All the plumbing is roughed in and conduit is dry fit for wiring stuff. Picking up a bunch if stuff at this year’s Messabout but there is enough stuff installed to get a feel of the cabin size, and it is “just right”. Just realized some of the photos are several weeks of “progress “ back, hope to be at the 2020 Messabout!
  12. Hi all, we traditionally sail our CS20.3 before and after the Messabout but this year..... she will be resting beside her big sister, (brother?) while we solicit B&B expertise pouring the lead keel for Mathew Flinders. probably should resurrect the Flinders thread with some fresh pictures.
  13. Gravel in the buckets looks like it works good, I filled a bunch of food grade buckets with fancy O ring lids with water, and you know what happened. 10 buckets, one failure. 5 gallons is a lot of water!
  14. Me too, I tried to dye my epoxy white for the water tanks on the boat I am currently building. Didn’t work for squat! On my Core Sound I bought Sherwin Williams paint called Tile Clad to paint the under deck areas, it is epoxy based 2 part and it 4 years of hard play still looks good. I am going to paint several areas on Mather Flinders with Tile Clad, good stuff.
  15. A picture is worth a thousand words, particularly on this topic, I will roll my boat out tomorrow and raise the masts and snap some photos. I never go forward to reef, by the time it occurs to me to reef, the foredeck or forward hatch isn’t where my plump butt needs to be! Gravity likes me enough that if solo, my weight that far forward really upsets the stability. This is the 27th version of my reefing system and it seems to work the best of the previous 26 attempts. If I sheet the mizzen down tight on centerline, board full down, it just kinda gives up and stays bow on the wind. The mizzen is easy to reef, standing forward of the mizzen tabernacle. Photos tomorrow if it would help anyone.
  16. Steve the boat looks great, and I see it sails beautifully too! We have removed our gps on Southern Express, the mast head wind indicator seems to be much more accurate, always points to the destination! My reefing “system” is very similar to what Paul said... my criteria was to be able to reef the boat standing in front of the mizzen tabernacle. The main has 3 downhauls at the mast then ran to the port cabin top. The main halyard has one red thread woven through it for one reef, so I release the main to one thread at the cleat on the cabin top then pull the reefing line, followed by the first reefing line (green tracer) on the sprit, the second reef is the same (except for 2 red threads woven through the halyard) and a red reefing line on the leech. I have only reefed to the second reef on the main once. All my reefing lines have “S” hooks and stay attached to the sprit to be quickly hooked to the kringles on the clew. The “S” hooks hook to the luff kringle as the sail is fed into the track. Only one downhaul on the mizzen clew, easy to move it up as you reef, still the same 2 lines with “S” hooks for the mizzen leach . I made little bags for the reefing line to be stored in when we trailer, other wise after a brief trailer ride the reefing lines become macrame! Hope that gives you an idea of our “ sail reduction system “ I reef the main pretty soon, the boat (and Carol) likes the boat to stand up.
  17. Your boat looks great! I really like your anchor roller, I have a Ronca anchor and you look like you have the best anchor roller. I believe it would work perfectly on the Mathew Flinders. I leave the sprits with the mast, I use several pieces of pipe insulation to isolate the sprits from the mast. We have trailered our boat likely 20,000 miles with no ill effects I can see. It does make rigging ridiculously quick and I never found a really suitable spot for the unattached sprits. I made a zip on cover that covers both masts, keeps the reefing lines from becoming a big rats nest. I leave the battens in the sail and just zip the sail into the same sail cover we use......well as a sail cover.
  18. Hi Mark, when we poured the one for my boat, we built plywood the mold “vertically “. Put a layer of green sand then held the wooden mold in sand vertically adding sand layer at a time. Pack the sand with a wooden dowel and hammer as you continue to fill the mold. Once the mold is full, packed as tight as possible. Then pull the wooden pattern from the sand. Make darn sure the sand is dry then pour the molten lead into the mold. It was surprisingly smooth, it took very little prepping afterwards to bond it to the bast of the centerboard.
  19. Joe, looks fantastic! Thanks for the photos
  20. Mark, the centerboard is the tool that helps ya go upwind. Not sure why you want it bright, the only time I see mine is maybe once a year when I drop it for a visual inspection. ( I use it to pinstripe the Gulf of Mexico ).
  21. Well, I use topping lifts, so convenient when we reef, just harden the topping lift, let the halyard drop to the marks on the halyard then pull the reefing lines, release the topping lift, then tidy up the sail as you wish. Prevents the sail gathering in the cockpit while you reef without the topping lift holding the sprit up. When we trailer, I pull the sprits to the top of the mast with the topping lifts, then pull the snotter tight to hold the sprit parallel the masts. Once the masts are lowered and in their crutches, a couple pieces of foam pipe insulation prevents chafe with several bungee cords. We trailer with the sprits in place, and use the sailcovers to keep the sails protected in the cabin. All the reefing lines remain on the sprits or mast, and a full length cover over the masts and sprits help prevent the reefing lines from becoming a macrame class.
  22. Fantastic Steve and Family! Just gets better from here on! Ya got a great boat!
  23. Congratulations Steve! Looking forward to seeing the video! Fun times ahead!
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.