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Jknight611

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Everything posted by Jknight611

  1. Hi Pete, I suppose it is dependent on the weight of the glass, this carpet I am glueing to the Flinders it won’t take many wraps at all!
  2. I recently had a unusual problem with some acetone, I was cleaning PEG mold release agent from recently unmolded epoxy with acetone and noticed when it dried it left a thin sheen of oily substance. Read the label closely when messing with some acetone, I bought this pint can from my local Ace Hardware and In tiny print it said it was recycled acetone. It looks like some sort of petroleum sheen.
  3. Hi Steve, yea, everything is heat soaked so my pot life of “slow” is just a few minutes. Patiently waiting for cooler weather!
  4. Some of the glamour of boatbuilding has escaped me today....
  5. I bought my Torqeedo pod from B&B, they are now a dealer. I haven’t gotten it wet yet but it looks like a quality piece. The motor is a fixed mount with a folding prop probably weighs 25-30 lbs.
  6. Don, that is really nice! Beautiful lines and with your perfect finish you will have a show piece. (Which will give an excuse not to go rowing very often.)
  7. The trim is cypress, long story but I met a young man that was selling pecan lumber, it was beautiful. I bought some (But not enough) noticed a lump on his ankle under jeans. He has since become a guest of the state for a 3-5 years. I did get enough to trim the head area and galley area, it looks pretty nice. Alan calculated the CG of the hull and I just put 2 1/2 eyebolts where he said. He got it perfectly! The forward end was supported by a engine hoist and the aft by a big cable hoist (cable come-a-long), which was supported by a Harbor Freight scaffolds. 2 hours setting up, 22 seconds to roll. We build 2 ultra sawhorses that keep the tabernacles 1 inch above the floor. If I would have thought a little harder I would have waited to install the tabernacles and the bumpkin till it is upright. I might call it boomkin when it is launched.
  8. Thank you, Covid has kept me home more.....
  9. Looks like a few months since a update on the Flinders project , true to form, some photos are sideways..... but the hull is inverted in real life. Electrical system, plumbing, interior are mostly complete, hull is glassed and 82% filled, this 17 oz glass was invented by the epoxy association. It guzzles the stuff! The stub keel is my current project, it is incredibly strong by design, with lots of glass. I will be taping it to the bottom panels with several layers of 24 oz unidirectional glass, then a overlay of 17 oz biaxial. That should hold it!
  10. Hi Mark , when I was building my CS20.3 I fell from the bridge deck into the cabin floor and my left knee made a remarkably similar “defect”. I fixed it about like you did and it is totally invisible and maybe ev n stronger ( not that I want to do it again)
  11. Hi all, late to the discussion, been “social distancing “ while sanding/filling the glass on the Flinders. We have our CS20.3 set up to reef from the cockpit quickly. I have woven some colored thread through the main halyard to indicate where the halyard ends up at the cleat when reefed, so, Up into wind, tighten the mizzen sheet (kinda hove too). So I tighten the topping lift, loosen the snottter, release the main halyard to the colored thread on the cleat then pull the forward reefing line, clew reef line, then tighten snotter release the topping lift, then back under way, never leave the cockpit, and it takes 30 seconds. Hope everyone is well and planning to go to the Messabout, we wanted the Flinders to be completed but.......likely ain’t happin! So Southern Express will be there!
  12. On a recent trip with our CS20.3 we stopped at a interstate rest area, walked the dogs, etc,, I then walked around the boat checking everything over, all fine. I have quite restricted view to the rear with the truck camper loaded so I am double vigilant on the walk around. In the time I completed my walk around and got belted in a young man in a spiffy RED jeep pulled in as close as reasonable. I had to reverse a foot or two to turn into the rest area exit lane, well my rudder blade went between the plastic fender and the metal body of the Jeep. It unzipped about 15 of those plastic rivet looking things! Almost removed his left front fender. I was soooo embarrassed, fortunately he was a nice guy and admitted partial fault which helped my bruised ego... $20 bucks to the Jeeper and a good inspection of Southern Express and back on the road. Think I will go look it over again.....
  13. As you know, there are some excellent examples of CS20.3 along the Upper Atlantic coast should you want to see a boat up close.
  14. We have raised/lowered masts on our boat In calm water with no problems. Might not be something you want to do in much of a seaway. The masts are light, set at a slight angle so they will lower into the small cradle on other tabernacle. Our main lowers to the port side of the mizzen tabernacle and we support it with a light line “harness “. We has originally a small cradle on the mizzen tabernacle but it was a great head/shoulder bumper so it was removed in favor of the line harness and a loop nut on the mizzenmast pivot bolt. The boat isn’t at our home now so I can’t get any pictures.
  15. I built sn 2 (Southern Express) and live/sail on the Gulf of Mexico, you are more than welcome to come sail with us. We have had 4- 5 adults in the cockpit on a rare occasion, it will do it. We can rig in 10 minutes without much rush, it is reasonably dry, we have taken green water over the bow but that is as rare as us having 4-5 adults aboard. It is a delight to sail!
  16. We have the same 2.5 Suzuki on our CS20.3, some days it will start with 1/2 pull, some days 156 pulls are required..... I try to do absolutely the same procedure, but with varying results. I currently have a chicken bone tied to the tiller. After it starts it runs beautifully, just those first few revolutions.
  17. I bought the Daisy AIS stand-alone receiver, it was about $40, and I hope it displays on the screen. We have a lot of push boats in our sailing area pushing black coal barges, you can’t see the barge at night except for the bow wake. We will bring ya some honey to the Messabout.
  18. I have an older Garmin 2006C that “somehow “ I have lost/misplaced the data card, a replacement is about $125. While pondering it I came across OpenCPN, a free open source charting software for NOAA raster or vector charts. So, I bought a Raspberry pi 4 with a 10 inch monitor, gps plug in thingy and an AIS receiver for just slightly more than a replacement Garmin chart. So far, it works brilliantly! I haven’t tried the AIS feature yet (too far inland) but for a extremely cheap chart plotter it is good stuff. The charts are free (well our taxes paid for them), they are current, and so far this has been a fun project. It took about 30 minutes to get it assembled and operational. I am going to try it on my Core Sound soon and if it works as good on the boat as my den, I may assemble another for the Matthew Flinders. Anyone have any additional advice or info on OpenCPN?
  19. I would 1. Clean the joint with a vibrating saw, thinnest blade, to get what ever “nonboat “ stuff in the open joint out 2. Blow out the stuff with high pressure air hose (dry air) 3. Inject it with thin epoxy, let it soak a few minutes then inject some slightly thickened epoxy 4. Clamp it with lots of clamps, without a lot of pressure, don’t want to squeeze the epoxy out. Just eliminate any voids. 5. I think I wouldn’t use screws, just my preference. it’s fixed....
  20. Nice idea with the bilge pump Steve, soooo much quieter than the Johnson ballast pump. How bout a 3 way switch to reverse the pump polarity, with a anti-siphon loop/vent in the fill/empty line. I will R&D your installation, (research & duplicate). Not sure if a centrifugal pump would draw water in but.... I outsmarted myself with the thru hull in the trunk, wouldn’t do that again, when I do a refit I will probably move it to an easier place to clean out.
  21. Boy, that sounds like a great sail..... and lots of fun. Whew we! I might have to let Mathew’s epoxy cure a bit!
  22. I made some air bags for a SOF kayak from a material from Sailrite called Shelter-rite. I glued with a contact cement HH-66. It is pretty easy, I just cut the material with a 1 inch glue seam around the perimeter, ya put the glue on as smoothly as you can on both sides, let it completely dry, place your seems together, get everything aligned as you want it then use a heat gun and a wall paper roller to stick them together. Found the air valves from a old pvc dingy but they are easy to find. I was amazed it was/is relatively air-tite. I had some tire slime that I put in to seal any leaks but I wouldn’t do that again, what a mess that stuff is! The whole project cost about $25 bucks, and it will stay airtight for 2-3 days before it needs a top-off.
  23. Some years ago I build a 2 Paws, we lived in a close knit neighborhood in New Orleans and had an elderly lady across the street that watched the build with some interest. When I got to the saw it in half stage, she saw that process and called Carol at work and said I had gone crazy, I was sawing the little boat I had been sanding so much up!
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