Jknight611

Me too!

Beautiful boat in a gorgeous location. We darn sure don’t vistas like that around here! But we are mobile!

Finished planking, this is the part that you mess around 20 minutes and it look like huge progress, I’ll start filling and sanding tomorrow. That’ll slow thing a bit!

I would be very cautious about drilling holes through the sprits, those suckers have a pretty good load on them when sailing sportily.

Cool, the boat Graham is holding is the Looper design that I am currently building. 30 ft, 8.5 ft beam, 38 hp inboard diesel, projected fuel burn at hull speed is about 2.5 liters/hr. I actually have the model he is holding on our dining room table……

Hi Steve, not completely sure I know, I suspect it will be in the 6500 lb range. Still have tankage to work out and a few minor “boy that would be nice” things as happens in all boat builds. Will finish planking the hull next week, then glassing the inside of the hull panels. I want to add the cabinetry etc before the big “ally-opp”. Won’t make it much heavier and it will give the hull more support. All my friends have been making suggestions on the big roll over. May just supply bbq chicken and beer and have them call me when it’s inverted. And we definitely will take you up on dockage, that is the area we want to explore!

Well, we became interested in “The Great Loop” several years ago, we looked at various ready built boats and each had good and less desirable traits. We came close to to purchasing a design till the seller mentioned the fuel flow was slightly less than 5 gallon per hour. A deal breaker at 12 kts for 6000 nm. During a visit with Kalos at B&B Skunkworks, Graham and Alan were 3D printing various hull shapes for an easily driven trailerable powerboat. After our previous experiences with B&B designs we knew we found our design . We picked up the basic hull on July 18, 2024. First panel bonded July 23. Most people identify it as a boat in a month. 30 ft long 8.5 beam, powered by a Beta 38 hp diesel which is aft of the main cabin and well soundproofed the boat will be a pleasant place for a sailor to spend time. Lots of solar for climate control and house loads with an extremely innovative dingy davit. Here is a Google link for more pictures https://photos.app.goo.gl/8ady6twen48hxSv68

Ya see Ken, there is a method to my madness! I will start a thread later in the month on ……project p….

I have a friend just north on New Orleans that has any type/size wood you can imagine. Some of the OLD growth teak is absolutely amazing, like 4 inches thick, 30 inches wide and 25 feet long! I can personally recommend Geoff, he is a good guy and I have bought quite a lot from him. We live a few miles north so if anyone road trips you have an anchorage. https://www.woodsnorthshore.com/home Jay

I made my hole in the mast on both of by tabernacled boats into a slight oval. I have a scrap of mast that was damaged in shipping that I have cut into a curved form fitting “washer”. The washer has the proper sized hole and when installed it distributes the forces around the perimeter of the mast. Or maybe not….. On the main mast I have always considered that the load path pushes the mast into the radius of the tabernacle, on the mizzen pulls the mast base away from the radius of the tabernacle. When I got my project to a point I could raise the mast on the tabernacle pivot, I wrapped the base of the mast with one layer of some plastic sheeting and put a blob of thickened epoxy to make the tabernacle fit the radius of the mast exactly. Experience (aviation term for something you gain shortly after needed)……don’t use too much goo on this phase or the boat won’t fit in the shop.

Absolutely agree Dave, silicone sealer is some terrible stuff. My wife had a Tripp design Columbia 26 that “someone” had put about 2 lbs of the stuff on the ports. I ended up using a wire wheel on a drill to remove it. Again I mention excellent luck with VHB on plexiglass/hull interface. Back to sprit haulage….

Hi guys, I have my. Core Sound disassembled currently for a minor refit so the masts/sprits are currently just laying on the tabernacles. The reefing lines and topping lifts stay attached to the sprits and masts wile under the cover. It had greatly sped up the launch process greatly. We have trailered the boat from Texas to Maine with our mast covered with no problem at all. The sailcovers have both twist locks and zippers. When we travel we zip the covers up and toss the bundles in the cabin, twist locks otherwise. Currently reassembling the boat so I can send better photos once we reattach the masts to the tabernacles. I recently painted the hull and replacing the ports plexiglass. Not recommending this technique but I installed the plexiglass posts with 3M VHB in 2015, first boat I have ever been aboard the ports didn’t leak! I had to break the plexiglass removed with a hammer and sharp putty knife. I broke my leg in August so some of my progress is slower than I want, just now “certified “ to play in the shop.

Absolutely!

I was just going to post a link! B&B Yacht Design quite the eclectic group! PowerCat, lots of beautiful sport fishing boats all sizes, world class sailing craft of every description and of course, the coolest, Mathew Flinders 246…….proud popa speaking

Amos, which takes longer, with or without help?

Kalos just mentioned that she would love to sail that area…..

Ken, your shop is entirely too organized and …..well neat!

I have used it on slides for hatches, marginal success…. If you don’t drag the bottom occasionally, you aren’t sailing on the gulf coast. I personally have pinstriped quite a lot of the gulf coast!

That will make a nice boat for you. Send more pictures as you progress.

Don, are you starting your personal yacht harbor? You are inspiring!

Hi Don, I might suggest Scotchbright in the locker that looks as if the original epoxy has been damaged. Scrub it up, wipe it with denatured alcohol an roll another coat of epoxy. Bet that hatch will leak no matter the gasket material. I had a boat the previous owner had cut one of these suckers in the cockpit sole to mess with the stuffing box. Gave the bilge pump a purpose in life. And like Nick sez…..silicone on a boat should be a capital offense!

Me too, guess I don’t do as I say all the time!

I have had good luck with the 36 brush boxes of brushes from Harbor Freight. After I unwrap the brush I fold the bristles over my shop vac (hose with vacuum on!) and vacuum the loose bristles out. Not for varnish but good for slocking epoxy.

Amos, I REALLY wish you hadn’t mentioned that the board forward mod was that effective! I was lurking to see if either one of you intrepid sailors would mention it. Our Core Sound 20.3 was the first completely home built and ……. well you know. Carol said she loves the way it sails, I just put my new Fein Multimaster 500 back on the shelf. Our Core Sound has a little skeg. Both for pin striping the shallows, and though a little more lateral plane would be ok. I clamped some duct taped plywood strips on either side of my skeg and made my protective shoe with epoxy thickened with lots of woven roven scraps chopped into 1 or 3 inches. 10 years and still good.

I can answer some of your questions, some of my ideas have worked, some kinda and a few we don’t discuss! Nav lights, I have had excellent results with NASA nav lights (not the NASA everyone initially thinks of). 2 wires up the mast with switching diodes to select anchor or navigation lights. I now have 2 of their lights and they work well. My Flinders know to us as Kalos uses RPI4B with OpenCPN. Basically it works fantastic, with an inexpensive hockey puck GPS and a dAISy AIS. I have charts on the system that would tax and chart table on any small boat. Don’t scrimp on the monitor. Handheld GPS on our CC20.3 has largely been replaced by iPhone with Navionics. I have a mast head antenna on Kalos, on our CS20.3 just using a Icom handheld. Kalos has SSB/Ham etc so quite avionics intense. I use a Garmin InReach for longer range weather guesses and forecasts. It also is a good security blanket (I recently used the emergency mode, worked fine) ‘Once upon a time we had a Tripp designed Columbia 26 with the outboard in a well in the cockpit. That soured me on outboards in a cockpit well. Well it was an old 2 stroke Everrude. Our CS20.3 has a small outboard mounted on an easily removable socket type mount. Kalos is electric pod drive that has proven to be excellent. B&B’s preshaped hydrofoils are sooooo worth it. As you know any time you can have better or equal results with less work, a win! YMV We have a NASA brand (same brand as nav lights) depth sounder on Kalos, not found a particular need in our CS20.3. When it gets that shallow it’s obvious. No speed or wind speed instruments. The boat tells me the wind by its motion. Kalos has onboard refrigeration and our Core Sound uses a quality ice chest. Load it at home, clean it afterwards at home. We have stayed on our CS20.3 up to 3 weeks at a time (with frequent shore visits) and were quite comfortable. It is an excellent design for a 20 ft easily trailerable, Carol an I both sleep very comfortably aboard. Kalos is luxurious. Hope some this helps…