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Posts posted by Adios

  1. I was about to the point of ordering an Armstrong bracket. Graham was kind enough to send me plans for a built on bracket, adapted from the 256. This has delayed me by a couple of months but I think will be worth it. No corrosion, stronger and better looking, too. It required cutting out slots in the transom to extend the keel and stringers. These are now installed, the bracket is planked and I'm now laminating the outboard bracket.



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  2. I'm working along, slow but steady. After foaming in all spaces between the side stringers, a second layer of foam, #6 divinycell, 1/8" was laminated to cover the side stringers and was flush with the intermediate sheer. 10 oz glass was next applied. I need to touch up a few areas and the fair the inside before installing the carlin stringers.







  3. IMG_1620.jpg.2a355a56184a23bbeae437af23cd42d6.jpg


    The ply deck was painted on its undersurface with epoxy and glued to the stringers, foam and chine with thickened epoxy. It was fastened with raptor staples. If you haven't used them, they are fast and much cheaper than bronze screws. They are a little quirky, though.




    Bilge compartments painted and water tank installed.


    I wanted space in the transom for storage and a live well/fishbox so I modified the aft bulkhead that I had previously removed.







    • Like 1
  4. My project inches along and for any of you who were following, my apology for the weak performance of keeping up this page. It is a hobby, after all!


    The floatation foam is in, I've installed the ply flooring and designed an aft bulkhead to allow installation of a live well/fishbox in the transom. Photos to follow.



    I installed  four backing plates made of 2 layers of 1/2 inch ply plus 18oz glass in the footprint of what will be the T-top. Since there will be no way to access the under surface of the deck later, the T-top will be fastened with SS bolts/nuts embedded into these footings (see Gougeon Brothers, 5th ed. p 136)






    Deck is 9mm ply, will be covered with 18 oz glass, then teak.


    • Like 1
  5. Beautiful job! Congratulations, it looks professionally built in every way.

    i have a question for you. I am 3 years into building the same boat, Hull #13. I haven’t posted in a while but I am getting ready to order an Armstrong bracket. I am much mor e interested in building a bracket. I would like to avoid the aluminum corrosion issue and I can make a custom bracket blend into the hull lines better. Does Graham have plans for the bracket or did you design it yourself?



    John McFadden

    Charleston SC

  6. Yes, that's a great idea!  it's worth it's own thread and some photos.  Wish I had known about it or researched it better before pouring foam. No going back now but i'm sure that there is adequate space for drainage and some standing bilge water under the foam.


  7. Next came the foaming part of the project. Graham had recommended not pouring foam but rather gluing blocks of foam in each compartment so as to allow for condensation and drainage through he limber holes. I made a compromise as shown. I cut sheets of 1" 2# foam and glued them (epoxy) so that there is a space below the foam for bilge drainage. The perimeter of the inset foam sheet was sealed with heavy duty duct tape to make a water tight seal so that liquid foam would not make it past the foam sheet when poured. 2# density foam was then poured and once set the tops cut off flush with stringers and bulkheads.


    I made a mock-up of this method first. The liquid foam adheres so tenaciously to the wood, sheet foam and duct tape that there is no worry about it coming apart.


    Next the ply flooring goes in.



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  8. Still chugging along.


    The transom issue is still unresolved but the plan is to move it aft with a centerline fishbox and access to the bilge. More on that later.


    Since my last post, the fuel tanks have been installed, conduits for fuel, water, electric and hydraulic lines installed and the bilge compartments foamed.

    The decking (ply + glass) is next with the final decking planned as teak.


    For the fuel tank installation, support frames were constructed as shown and neoprene rubber + 5200 used to prevent chafing. These tanks must expand so they cannot be "foamed in".


    Instead there are clamps which secure the tanks and 1" blocks of neoprene are installed around the edges of the tank to prevent any movement.







  9. Jay,


    I'm in Brickyard Plantation building in my garage. Tight fit. Glassing the sole in more sensible and it may come to that.Teak is so beautiful though. Stupid expensive!




    Beautiful Work!  I have to take a break from the glass busy work and do something that looks a bit more like progress. Is that the outer banks and do you have a thread going? where's the link?

  10. Yes, I will glass the inside of the transom and bulkheads and tape the joints. The next step for me is figuring out the redesign of the transom layout. I still have to go back and clean up limber holes, sand and put on another coat of epoxy on the entire bilge. Yuk!

  11. I was thinking of something  like your second photo. I do want room for mechanical and bilge access and some storage. I was thinking of moving the bulkhead back to perhaps 12-14" from the transom so that I could have storage space on either side of the livewell/fishbox. Also, I might raise this off of the deck 4-6" to allow for the toe space that you mentioned. The plan is for a 200 yamaha on an armstrong bracket/swim platform. The door is appealing but I would be afraid of unacceptably weakening the transom.


    I love the teak. I will do teak deck and combing boards if costs allow. I really want it to look like a scaled down version of the classic big sportfisher

  12. I need some advice, though.


    I did not anticipate that the distance between the aft bulkhead and the transom would be so large, 31' in the centerline.

    my plan is to cut out the above deck portion of the bulkhead and move it aft so that it would be easy to reach or climb over the transom while fishing/swimming, etc.

    I would probably widen it in the centerline to accommodate a fishbox or livewell, too.


    any thoughts or suggestion are appreciated.







  13. Chris,

    I am building an Ocracoke 24 ( see "Ocracoke 24, Lucky #13" thread) and am planning the interior finish. What type of foam board (thickness, density, etc) did you use for planking the interior? I was planning ply over the ribs but structural foam seems like a much better idea. I assumed that you glassed over afterwards? Beautiful boat, can't wait to see her on Charleston harbor.


    Any advice appreciated

    Thx, John McFadden

    Mt Pleasant, SC

  14. Peel ply coming off. I spite of best efforts, there were some tiny voids that were painstakingly open and filled with epoxy. An additional coat of unthickened epoxy was applied. Finally, a final fairing was done (mostly at the glass overlap along the chines) before painting. Priming was with interluxe barrier coat below the waterline and sanding epoxy primer above.





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