Don Silsbe
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Posts posted by Don Silsbe
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@Hirilonde— Besides, the air at the top of the mast is irrelevant, since most of the sail area is 2/3 down the mast. PLUS, my ability to accurately read a wind indicator that is 5’ away outweigh the slight difference of a wind vane that is 20’ away. Think about that.
I really believe that the difference in location is infinitesimal. The only way to prove it is at the Messabout. My little device can easily be relocated to anybody’s boat that wants to try it out. Are you in?
This is what the forum is all about, isn’t it?
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I was there last summer in my Two Paw 8 “Two Bits”! She was being towed behind my friend’s CS17 mk3 Avocet.
I’ll bet that was Andy B’s new (to him) CS 20. But maybe not.
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I think Alan uses butyl tape, like you use on an RV.
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So, I am so enthusiastic about the masthead float I made for my Bay River Skiff, I decided I needed one for Two Bits. When I did my capsize test, I noticed how quickly she wanted to turn turtle. B&B doesn’t have a mini float kit (yet), so I made my own. By my figures, a 6” diameter ball would provide about 4# buoyancy. Not sure that was enough, but it wasn’t too ugly on top of the mast.
I got a piece of 1/2” diameter aluminum tubing from my local store, and attached it to the top of the mast.
I then made a fiberglass sleeve, using the method we use to make a glass tube for our mast step. (Sorry, no photo.) then, I stacked up six layers of 1” foam insulation, and started making foam dust. I covered it with glass and epoxy, and painted it. It’s not perfect, but it is good enough.
Yesterday, I got to check it out. Four pounds is plenty of floatation!
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@Hirilonde—I prefer somewhat fouled air to a crick in my 74 year-old neck!
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To attach the tent to the floor of the boat, how about some attaching some screw eyes to the side seat surface, very close to the hull sides? They’d be out of the way, and solid.
Does your tent have a front entry? Otherwise, I’m not sure about ingress/egress.
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@paul_stewart— Agreed! But some were shot at the equator. LOL
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I rotate them in my photo app before I add them to the post.
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I have full coverage on my scratch-built boat. I have Farmers.
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WOW!
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Hurray!!!
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I’d start here, and see if anything looks similar.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/browse?terms=access hatch&rterms=hatch
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I’m happy to hear that it is in your driveway. Wow! That’s a lot of water in the lazarette. (That’s what I call it, anyway.). The good news is that all that varnish can be scuffed up and painted. It’ll be a lot lower maintenance. Keep an eye on the interior side of that fir plywood. I built a boat a long time ago using fir. It is slowly returning to nature— death by checking!
If this process begins, you need to sand it down and glass the interior. Note that on this boat I glassed the bottom, and it is just fine.
I have a GPS exactly like that one. Garmin says they are waterproof, and float. You just gave yours the acid test!
Knowing the size of your Sea Pearl and this boat, I knew you’d be awed by all the room. I’m happy to see that it has a boarding ladder. That’ll be great for swimming and reboarding after capsize.
Welcome to the family!
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@Steve W— It doesn’t seem to affect it much, if any. The biggest drawback I have with it is that sometimes I need to knock it to the side, when going downwind. You are welcome to try it this fall.
@Hirilonde— The only thing it fouls on in this location is the mizzen sail, as me tioned above.
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Graham once told me that adding screws to an epoxy joint actually weakened it. I wish I had quizzed him further on that.
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I agree with Aphers. Some harbor require fendering on all hard-sided dinghys, or so I’m told.
I have B&B’s clips along the bottom of my nesting pram. You’re right. A retrofit would require major surgery. Five 1/4” stainless steel bolts with wing nuts and rubber washers (on the bottom three) are best for you.
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You’re off and running! She looks good. My overall plan during my builds was to do “something” every day. It didn’t always work, and sometimes the something only took 15 minutes, but the momentum was maintained. Momentum is important.
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A friend of mine stands her S12 upright, on her transom, in the garage.
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I think what Hirilonde is saying is that the epoxy bond will provide more than enough strength for the loads. I can see the benefit of them for precisely the step. But after the glue has cured, they serve no purpose, other than an entry point for water. Just be sure to include a drain hole, so water doesn’t accumulate in it.
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Being over 70, I don’t like looking up that high, so I added a clip-on windex to my mizzen mast. It is just above the sprit in this photo. They are intended for a Laser, but work well for this.
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Paul356 is right about #1, I believe. The outside is what matters here.
If I were you, I’d take a block plane to the inside surface, and create a taper down to 6mm. When I taped the outside, I’d use straight (un-thickened) epoxy. (Pre-saturate your tape, of course.) On the inside, I’d use straight epoxy to pre-saturate the wood and glass tape, but I’d paint on some thickened epoxy (mayonnaise consistency) to the tapered joint, before applying the tape. In this way, there won’t be any air gaps in the tape-epoxy joint, if there are imperfections in your taper. Air gaps are to be avoided at all costs.
Now, this is just my opinion, and not backed up with personal experience. My Bay River Skiff does not have a butterfly hull design. So, if you want the real skinny, give Alan a call. But this is what I’d do. Okoume planes like butter, so have no fear. And if you don’t have a small block plane, I’d recommend getting one. You’ll use it a lot on this project, even when building from a kit.
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I suggest calling Alan at B&B on Monday, if you don’t get a solid answer tonight.
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@Designer— I agree with you. Adding lead to a float doesn’t seem to be a logical move. LOL
I put my float on the main. Since I don’t have tabernacles on my boat, stepping that mast is a struggle. I might move it to the mizzen. At least then I’ll have better footing when stepping that one.
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I have a BRS15. My mast step is similar to this, in that it is made up of layers of plywood. I did make sure that it got a couple of coats of epoxy. Also, I have a drain hole in the bottom. If it gets rain water, it does not accumulate. Also, my mizzen sheeting is like the plans.
I tried the setup you have, and it wasn’t worth the effort. (The mizzen doesn’t require the care and attention that the main does.). I don’t know of any method to keep the mizzen sheet from hanging up on the motor. Maybe a boomkin is the solution. That’s what Graham did on his CS 17 mk3.
Weekend Sail with Mo
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Oh! Ben! Now I remember. Happy to see you posting.