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Don Silsbe

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Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. Wow. That much of a cantilever would put a lot of stress on the transom. Beautiful piece of hardware, though .
  2. Chick, I found your gourmet nuts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#easy-grip-handles/=w4c4od. Fancy-schmancy! I love it. I'll stick with cashews and nylocks. (Yes, I have a weird sense of humor, but I'm OK wIth that.)
  3. Glad to help! There are two types of soft shackles on youtube. The kind without the bury is easier to make, easier to operate, and just as effective, in my opinion.
  4. Thanks, I needed that video! Which boat design is this?
  5. I'm not sure which we were doing. Maybe the fisherman's knot to form a loop?
  6. Search youtube for "how to make a soft shackle". Loops are more difficult, but they will show up in the right column, too.
  7. These are compelling arguments, to be sure. Alan made a scraper out of a drywall screw on the now-epoch CS15 videos. Check it out.
  8. Here's a photo of someone else's BRS15, so you can see the differences and similarities.
  9. The Bay River Skiff is a simpler version of the Core Sound series. No butterfly assembly at the bow-- that came later. So, there is a flatter entry at the bow. No side decks, so running snotters and downhauls aft is done less often. Otherwise, the rig is practically identical to the CS. Many of my blocks will be attached with soft shacles made of Dyneema. They're cheap and easy, just like the girls I used to date. (Or wanted to...) but there is those darned fairleads that prevent it from becoming detachable. Can't wait to get this pile of lumber floating, so I can experiment!
  10. For sure! Not my first build, so it was a joke. Hope the real number is cloaer to mine instead of yours, though. Time will telll.
  11. I've been thinking on the continuous sheet concept. Depending on hardware, the sheets would have to remain on the boat all the time. That is assuming that you would be end splicing the rope. Otherwise, you'd have at least one pesky knot, or all your blocks and fairleads would have to be removeable. For l my boats, I stowed the sheets when not in use-- except for the Catalina 27. The alternative would be to attach the sheet ends at the clew using a fisherman's knot or two bowlines. But in doing so, you'd lose some mechanical advantage. How much purchase is needed on these boats?
  12. I knew that someone would call me on the inclusion of cedar on my list of hardwoods. I do know better. And thanks for the cautionary notes on gluing to white oak. I'll keep that in mind. I'm not concerned about a little extra weight, since this is my "old man's boat". Mattp, I like the lines, versatility, and simplicity of the BRS boats. Lennie, I do have a scheduled completion date-- the first of Septnever. LOL And have you seen the website www.animatedknots.com/indexboating ? It's a great site. Chick, Genette Lumber in West Asheville has rough sawn poplar for cheap, PLUS they will plane it to your specification for $5 (for your entire order). But I always thought that poplar was at the bottom of the food chain as regards to rot resistance. That said, I am planning to make a strip boat out of poplar, unless my forum bretheren can persuade me otherwise. Now, I've gotta get off this computer, and get down in my workshop. The scarfs have been glued up this morning-- yee-hah!
  13. I'm looking at New England's Buzz Line, which is specifically for dinghy sheets. 7mm. It is soft, and it is single braid. This will make it a breeze (pun intended) for splicing into a continuous loop. (Great idea!) I'm going with the smaller diameter line because of my experience with a Wayfarer. They use 1/4" line for all the sheets, to lessen the effect of sheet weight in light air. And we get a lot of that in these parts. The softness will make up for the small diameter. And "all the way forward" it is. Thanks, guys!
  14. While I was waiting to move to the Boatbuilding Center (which is now unavailable), I cut up and laminated the wood (white oak) for my centerboard. I also planed it down, using my router. I made a full-sized layout of the centerboard/trunk, and made the modifications for a flush-top version that PAR shared. It was fun getting out the old drafting gear, and putting triangles together again. I spent some time trying to come up with a jig to shape the blank to an NACA 0009 foil. I need to revisit this later, after I get the hull going.
  15. It's about time that I start posting photos of my build. Seems only fair, since I've learned so much from everyone else's photos. Let's see what sort of trouble this'll get me into. But first, a couple of notes. This is an NC Foothills build. If you ask (and I did) about the availability of southern yellow pine, you get a look that could have come from the movie "Deliverance". This boat will be made with Meranti (not that other stuff) and local hardwoods-- White Oak, Black Walnut, and Aromatic Cedar. Sure, she'll be a little heavier, but hey-- I'm no featherweight, either! The plan was to build her at Don R's Polk County Boatbuilding Center. We have run into a couple of snags, so I'll start the boat at home. When I can, I'll transfer the build to the Boatbuilding Center. At the present, she's a no-name boat. Not sure if and when that'll change. But for now she'll be BRS15 #152. The transom is cut out, and will be completed this week. I used walnut here, because it's free. Today, I took my side lumber over to the center, and had Don scarf them with his 12:1 power-scarfer. That was sweet to watch! Tomorrow, I'll glue up my scarfs.
  16. Am I correct in assuming that the "forward 20 degrees" is forward of a line perpendicular to the keel? I want to get it right. For sure, I'll add some length, but even the cheap stuff isn't cheap!
  17. LennieG, I am a "thrifty splurger". There are a few things that I am splurging on. One is using high- tech sheets.
  18. I thought so, guys. something that Graham said or wrote about sailing in a blow, and spilling off excess power (wind) lead me to that suspicion. Here's a question-- is that 20 degrees off the beam or the bow? Reason I'm asking, so early in my build, is that West Marine sent me a discount certificate. I'd like to buy some fancy rope for my sheets using that discount, and I want to make sure that I buy enough.
  19. How long should I make the sheets on my cat ketch rig? (Bay River Skiff 15) long enough to allow the main & mizzen to go forward of square to the centerline of the boat? If so, how far?
  20. Oarlocks??? No way! I built a dinghy 25 years ago using hard maple for the deck, quarter knees, and seats. It is as solid as a rock. I must admit that it is a freshwater boat which is trailered. Actually, the fir plywood will be her demise long before the maple os an issue. Oarlocks??? No way! I built a dinghy 25 years ago using hard maple for the deck, quarter knees, and seats. It is as solid as a rock. I must admit that it is a freshwater boat which is trailered. Actually, the fir plywood will be her demise long before the maple os an issue.
  21. I thought I proofread that post! Gosh, gotta love these little smartphones. I thought I proofread that post! Gosh, gotta love these little smartphones.
  22. I think I hear the fat lady singing a chorus of "Chick's Gonna Build a CS17 mk3". Grahamhsis illustrated the limitations of a CS15 version of tje mk3. Better to free him up to work on other projects, like the CS20 manual, and revising the tubing lengths for my BRS15. The Wizard is in demand!!! It was a nice design challenge, but …
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