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Don Silsbe

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Posts posted by Don Silsbe

  1. This boat is the envy of my eye!  It reminds me so much of the flat-bottom skiffs that I used to row as a kid.  (My hand is on the oar in the photo.)  I wish we had access to that beautiful cedar that you're using.  All the cedar we have around here is aromatic cedar, and it's full of knots.

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    • Like 2
  2. I bought mine online from Fisheries Supply.  We used it to go for a dip this past summer, and it works like a champ.  It is nearly invisible, when not in use.  That's what I really like about it.  It's probably the most expensive solution ($200), but it is the slickest.

  3. The Spindrift 12 is a fine boat.  I almost chose that over my BRS15.  While I'm happy with my choice, the S12 will be more manageable for the boys in a capsize situation.  And it'll be fun sailing for you, too.  

     

    Regarding epoxy clean-up, I have some information that I haven't shared with you all to date.  When we discussed this a few months ago, there were different schools of thought, but no input from an expert.  I wrote the Gougeon Brothers on the subject, specifically asking if white vinegar should be considered a solvent.  This is their response:  

    While it is much better than a solvent, which will open your pores causing the epoxy to go into your skin, the best is a waterless hand cleaner like the orange citrus stuff.  Bruce Niederer, Senior Tech Advisor, Gougeon Brothers, Inc

    Personally, I consider denatured alcohol to be a solvent.  OK, it's not as aggressive as acetone, but I think it is also a pore-opener. I use disposable gloves about 95% of the time, and long-sleeved shirts when I remember to.  When I don't, I wipe away the excess, and wash with vinegar water.  A friend of mine doesn't use gloves, gets epoxy all over his hands, and washes it all with vinegar and water, followed by soap and water-- not me!  Another friend uses alcohol for clean-up and attributes his neuropathy to extended epoxy use.  Gloves.  They're cheap and effective.  Use 'em!

     

    Regarding cleaning up chip brushes-- seriously?  They're 50 cents apiece through Amazon (or probably at Harbor Freight).  Not worth the hassle, when I'm building a boat that's gonna cost me a whole lot more than $12.50 for 24 brushes.  Yeah, you could wash 'em out in acetone, but I consider that stuff to be Liquid Death, when I'm handling epoxy.  

     

    Keep it safe, and don't sweat the small stuff!

    • Like 1
  4. Walt S.-- You've got my vote for the Interlux paint family.  I find that their one-part Brightside paint is a pleasure to work with, and is tough as nails.  I haven't tried their two-part product, but I'll bet it is also good.  My boat is painted with Brightside on the interior.  For the exterior, I went to Epiphanes two-part poly.  I did this because I wanted the outside to be extra tough for trailering.  (Many might question my rationale, but there it is.)  I found this paint also to work well.  What I didn't like was the European can it came in.  I could not get a good seal on that can, once I opened it.  It made it impossible to save the leftovers for touch-up.  I began the painting process with System Three's WLPU; it was a disaster.   It did not level, it left brush marks, etc.  PAR also has bad things to say about this paint.  Your only recourse for thinning is to use water.  For me, that caused runs.  I painted over it with the Epiphanes.  All that said, if I could, I would have sprayed the exterior, rather than roll and tip.  But I do not have the equipment or the skill set for that.  In deference to Mr. Coyote, I love to paint.  I just don't like it when the results are disappointing (WLPU).

  5. Good luck with your build, Chespearl!  If it were me, I'd just add a 6 or 12mm doubler to the transom in the area of the motor mount.  But I would expect some other, more qualified, forum members to weigh in on this subject.  Chick Ludwig and Designer have both done fine motor mounts on their 17's, even though they're mk3's.

  6. Thanks for the photos!  This really has me thinking about my setup.  My deck is simpler, and I have no side decks or coamings.  I do like the pvc trailing edge, as well as the low forward attachment, mattp.  This sort of design would be great for my first one.  If I really get into the cruising thing, I might take the plunge, and build a dodger.  But for now, I'm mainly going to be daysailing and fishing, so even that coveted mark 3 cabin top would get in the way of my normal routine.

  7. I agree.  Plus, I've heard that white oak does not bond as well with epoxy, long-term.  In fact, System Three has come out with a special formulation of resin for dealing with this and other oily/waxy woods.  I found this out too late-- my stem and keel batten are both of white oak.  I did back up their attachment with a few screws.  Fir is great for that.  So is "lumberyard pine"-- that's the select stuff you'll find at your big-box lumberyard.  I didn't use any, but most B and B builders use nothing but this wood.

  8. mattp:  Thanks for the photo and sharing your experience.  I wondered how effective the open-sided design would be in the rain.  If you have more photos of this tent, I'd love to see them either here or by e-mail (donsilsbe@gmail.com)

     

    meester:  Consider this:  Instead of having to carry a boom crutch, swing your tiller vertical, and lash the mizzen snotter to it.  I haven't done this yet, but this is what I intend to try, if I extend my tent that far aft.  For sure, my first prototype will be out of a cheap, blue poly tarp.

  9. I ran a short shaft motor on my (very) notched transom last summer.  I had no problem with it.  I'm sure that if I walked forward to weigh anchor it would have gurgled.  I like the 1" guideline for motors mounted on the centerline of the boat.  I wonder what it should be off the centerline.

     

    wwbaginski:  We often veer off course on these discussion threads-- much more than this, too, I might add.  We always seem to find it back to home port, so not harm is done.  Don't abandon ship!

  10. John,

    You're right-- the interior is slow-going.  But this is where all the good stuff happens, all the little custom bits that make the boat your own.  On my little boat, I installed an internally-stowed boarding ladder and hidden rod holders.  It certainly added days to the build to do this, but I've succeeded in converting fairly useless space into a nice feature.

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  11. Wwbaginski:  On my 15's plans, it specifies a deep notch in the transom.  This notch accommodates my short-shaft 5 hp motor, getting the cavitation plate well into the water.

     

    Btrowe:  Wwbaginski's concern is well-founded.  The cavitation plate on your outboard will need to be submerged.  If you already have the motor, make sure that your transom height matches your shaft length.  You can see the difference in transoms between his 17 and my 15.  The 17's transom may certainly be notched like mine, to accept a short-shaft motor without an external bracket.  Just make sure to modify the rudder accordingly.  If you haven't purchased the motor yet, the choice is yours to make.

  12. Thanks, Beacher, for starting this discussion thread.  I'm asking the same questions, so maybe we'll both get some good advice.  That's usually the case on this forum.  My sails are bent on using a luff sleeve-- I do not have a halyard.  But the snotter is currently used to secure the sails through the clews.  This would be my attachment point.  Today, I found a great website for supplies and materials:  www.questoutfitters.com

     

    Do many people use tents or bivy sacks?  I'm interested in these as well.  I'd love to hear about some experiences with them.

  13. I either use B&B's pre-mixed thickening powder (good price and convenient) or 2:1 cabo:wood.  That is the ratio I used to build the Willow kayak (per Thomas' direction), and have stuck with that ratio ever since.  It might be interesting to more cabosil next time, though.

    • Like 1
  14. Welcome to the Bay River Skiff cult!  Let me throw down a few bullet points:

    • Ask Graham and Alan about the keel batten.  I built mine according to the plans, which specify a keel batten.  The Core Sound boats, a more recent development, omit this part. I asked Graham about it this fall at the messabout.  I believe he told me that he would omit it.  There are advantages to leaving it out.
    • My transom was made according to the plans.  That means that it was 3/8 plywood plus a lot of lumber glued to the inside surface.  (See photo.)
    • When you cut the side bevels to the transom and stem, cut them large, and trim them down with a power planer.  I lifted the angles off the drawing.  For my build, it was not the right angle.  
    • Also, since I had a chunk of thick white oak laying around, I added a slightly oversize transom knee.  Sure wouldn't hurt for you to do likewise!

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  15. Welcome to the Bay River Skiff cult!  Let me throw down a few bullet points:

    • Ask Graham and Alan about the keel batten.  I built mine according to the plans, which specify a keel batten.  The Core Sound boats, a more recent development, omit this part. I asked Graham about it this fall at the messabout.  I believe he told me that he would omit it.  There are advantages to leaving it out.
    • My transom was made according to the plans.  That means that it was 3/8" (?)  plywood plus a lot of lumber glued to the inside surface.  (See photo.) It might be 1/4", but I doubt it.  I'm away from home right now, and can't consult my plans.
    • When you cut the side bevels to the transom and stem, cut them large, and trim them down with a power planer.  I lifted the angles off the drawing.  For my build, it was not the right angle.  
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