Don Silsbe
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Posts posted by Don Silsbe
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@Peter HK— I agree with you and PadrePoint. Seals should be unnecessary in a capsize situation. But AndyB’s lazarette filled up with water while trailering it in the rain from Colorado to Michigan. The lazarette was full to the brim.
And I agree with y’all about silicone. It has no place on my boat— ever!
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Get this. The boat has a plastic hatch cover to the lazarette, made by Bowmar.
Since it is old, the gaskets needs replacing. There is a gasket both on the lid and the frame. I like that it has a double seal. I contacted Bowmar. Yes, they sell replacement gaskets. They “only” cost $10/foot, and there’s a $100 minimim, and there will be a $7.50 handling fee PLUS shipping! I need about 15 feet. I know that this material costs them $.25/foot to manufacture. (Probably less, the greedy so and so’s.) I will not be buying this gasket material from them, but going to Lowe’s to search for a substitute.
Actually, I don’t like the hatch. Since this boat has a non-pivoting tiller, access to the lazarette is somewhat restricted.
I’d like to eventually close this area up, and have a hatch on the vertical surface, like Todd Stein has. 
That will need to wait until next fall, when I strip off all this old paint. Comments?
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I’m also thinking about ropes as a way to apply a force.
When Brodie and I put in some of the bulkheads, they all needed screws to keep them in place. So, I think I need to remove them from one side.
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Good question. There’s a little yellow string running fore/aft. It needs to line up to the centerlines of each bulkhead. It doesn’t, and I’m scratching my head.
Your Core Sound 15 build was similar— a combination of cut panels with cut bulkheads connecting them. Only difference here is that there’s a bottom panel that gets glued on after the geometry is set. In my case, there is about a 1/2” arc to the inboard side (over 15’). It ain’t much, but it ain’t perfect. Trying to thing of an intelligent way to make it disappear.
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I removed the centerboard today, to fix a delamination issue. That’s one of the “warts” that requires my attention.
Another issue that concerns me is the lack of a seal around the seat hatches. I consider this to be a safety issue. I can just add weatherstripping to most of my four hatches, but at least one has an interference to the piano hinge nuts. I’ll have to do a modification. These are constructed differently than the plans I got from B&B for my Bay River Skiff. I wonder if this is an area of evolution (the boat was built in 2006), or an example of “builder’s license”.
Finally, I’m seeing some bare wood in some of the compartments. Do I need to sand this very much, or is just soap and water prep enough? I think I need to sand, but I don’t want to.
Or maybe I just prime and paint those compartments. (After some light sanding.)
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My Barkley Sound 8’ oars have a blade that is 5” wide and 25” long.
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My grand-neighbor Brodie and I got the port ama 3D this morning.
The string is supposed to line up with the centerline of all the bulkheads. I’m about 1/2” off in the middle. Hmm…
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I’ll check tomorrow.
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I have 8’s on my Bay River Skiff 15. 9’s would be much better.
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I think Joe would benefit from a small swim platform, considering all the skiiers and tubers who enjoy using her/him.
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I know this is silly to think about at this point in my project, but here goes. Here in the Appalachian foothills, the winds are often very light. I enjoy light air sailing, but there are times I have found myself desiring more sail.
The plans show an optional/occasional staysail flown amidships.
I’ve seen many of my mark 3 brethren equipped to fly a code zero. (I can’t find a photo of this anywhere.)
Which is best, especially for a solo sailor? Most of my modifications will happen over next summer, fall, and winter. One of the mods is adding a tabernacle to the main mast. When I do that, I could I could add a potato launcher/bowsprit for a code zero. What do y’all think?
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Back in mid-October, I made a quick trip down to Florida, to snag a deal on a sound but older Core Sound 17 mk1. I know that I fell in love with Avocet last winter, but I am still a daysailer at heart. This boat was professionally built and garage kept, but needs a little work. The original paint job is holding up on the exterior, but the interior has beed painted over, and is peeling. Several systems need an update, such as reefing. I hope to sail her in Florida for a few weeks this winter, but the paint job will have to wait until the trimaran is out of here. I plan to make upgrades to the boat over the next year or so. Throughout the process, I’ll have questions for y’all, so stay tuned. In the meantime, here are a few photos of my new/old boat. I’m going to name her “Windependent”.
I took this in FL, the day I brought her home.
The remaining photos are off the Marketplace add. I’ll take and post a few photos this weekend.
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I’ve been seal coating ama bulkheads and sides.
Also, the owner and I have been brainstorming on how to ventilate the amas while the boat is not in use. (She will be kept on a lift, outdoors.) We decided to put a vent on each ama’s transom. I’m adding insect screens, and will paint these nylon parts prior to installation.Screen details:
The hole has been drilled out of the epoxy:
The vent in position. A 3/8” deck will be added to the top of the transom. The hole below the vent is for an alignment string. I can’t wait to show y’all that concept in action. I’m excited to see it work, too.
I hope to go 3D this holiday week.
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I thought it would be good to give y’all an update on this topic. I bought a 50 pack of assorted discs for my sander, per @Paul356’s recommendation.
My current trimaran build (see main forum) gave me an opportunity to try out suggestions like this one.
I’m here to report that these new (to me) discs are working very well. I’ve been using the 60 grit to sand semi-cured epoxy between coats. They do not clog up with epoxy, and remain sharp for a long time. These are a winner! Thanks for the recommendation, Paul!
This is the Amazon “link”:
Dura-Gold Premium - Variety Pack - 5" Gold Sanding Discs - 8-Hole Dustless Hook and Loop - 10 Each of Grit (60, 80, 120, 220, 320) - Box of 50 Sandpaper Finishing Discs for Woodworking or Automotive https://a.co/d/aSzhXIe
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I love ‘em! But after a few uses, they start to cam out or strip. I still prefer them over drywall screws.
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Ama bulkheads awaiting a chance to bond with their stringers. I like to let them get acquainted first. I’ll turn on a Barry White CD for the main event tomorrow.
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I meant to include some photos. I even tried a roto-zip, which was a disaster. Grandpa’s old saw worked best.
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Thanks for the story, Richard. I miss Avocet a little, too. I’m sure Spoonbill will give you two a lot of pleasure.
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Maybe Richard will paint her pink!
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Welcome to the club! It was an interesting day for me, too. I tried different methods, and found an old saw that belonged to my carpenter grandfather worked best. I agree with Aphers. Glass is unnecessary. Just remember how many layers are on the other side. If you do, only use 4 oz.
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Welcome back! I’m looking forward to this!
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@Nick C— That system is disgustingly simple! I might have to try that.
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I’ve used Bondo a long time ago. The main thing there is not to wait too long to sand. It turns into granite after a few days.
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Check out this video at the 48 minute mark.
Seaclipper 16 Build
in Main Forum
Posted
I did it! The starboard ama is now off the horses, and waiting for a bottom. This is how I did it.