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Don Silsbe

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Posts posted by Don Silsbe

  1. By the way, I have the same sort of rubber tiller extension on my Bay River Skiff.  They are notorious for cracking and breaking with age.  Because of this, I take the extension off the boat when not in use.  It is only under stress when sailing.  That way, it will never (?) fail while I’m using it.

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  2. You nailed it!  If you add a little bungee cord in your tensioning line, you'll be able to

    make finer adjustments.  

    RE:  ”Storer Wrap”

     Meester included a link in one of his posts.  It was to a Michael Storer website.  (He’s the God-of-All-Things-Balanced-Lug.)  On this website, Storer suggests wrapping the halyard around the yard.  Here’s the link: 



    Bu I think a simple loop of line around the mast will hold the yard in place.  Caveat:  I have no experience on which to base this statement.  Try stuff, and decide for yourself.  That’s part of the fun!

  3. I took these photos of my system.  I used odds & ends I had in my hardware box.  You’ll notice first that it’s on the underside of the tiller.  Also, there’s a short piece of bungee in the tensioning line.  This gives me a wider range of adjustment.  F0B22494-44EC-43DD-9768-B95F37A19475.thumb.jpeg.a2a47177f2ef05b61d3f5b36bf59743f.jpeg

    This is how it looks under tension.F4A544BD-A876-4437-AD23-60E208524667.thumb.jpeg.024fd693592c308b8686a999801974bb.jpeg


    The green bridle clips on and off at the gunwales.  Also, to quickly disengage the system, just unsnap the snap hook from the bridle.2C3C2777-E775-4711-AB13-81E202F53EFA.thumb.jpeg.3365faa2926aa337ecd322fa1b12df03.jpeg

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  4. I understand what you’re saying about raising the sail.  In a small boat, it is quite tipsy up forward.  It’s certainly worth a try.  What I like about wooden boats is that you can try stuff.  If you don’t like it, you remove it, use a little filler and paint, and nobody’s the wiser.

    With regards to tiller lock, I did something like this on my boat.  Only difference is that I put it underneath the tiller instead of on top.  Works great!


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  5. I’ve been thinking about your question.  You got a lot of good responses.  But let me throw in my two cents-worth.


    First “cent”:  I came across this video that might be helpful, at least for how to raise and lower the boat while it’s on the trailer.  

    Second “cent”:  Sailboats’ hulls are angled on the bottom.  They are also smooth and slippery.  I have concerns about using jack stands, especially if you’re talking about automotive jack stands.  Since the jack stands are vertical, the bottom will hit them at an angle. The top of the jack stand could easily slip outboard.  That’s why boat jack stands have a wider stance.  

    And that’s also why the cradle idea is a better solution.  The cradle kisses off to the shape of the bottom, and will not slip like a jack stand.  

    No, I would never consider using jack stands, except for directly under the keel.



  6. 8 hours ago, Hirilonde said:

    I get the impression the Amanda was designed for its simplicity in building, specifically for the build your own exhibit at the WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport. The participants can build the basic shell in the 3 days of the show, and finish it off at home.

    Unlike the Spindrift, there is no torturing plywood to shape. The folding process of the Spindrift can be tedious and difficult for first time builders. The down side to the Amanda is the bow entry.  A Spindrift will handle sloppy waves better, will pound less as it can cut through waves better than the Amanda. Even with the same rig, I would think the Spindrift would sail faster, especially to weather. I would think the Amanda gets up on a plane under power quicker and easier, but will pound more in waves.


    All around, I think the Spindrift is a better boat, but that opinion is some what subjective.

    I believe the Amanda pre-dates the Spindrift.  I do know that it was modified/improved for the builds at Mystic. But I think you’re wrong on that one.


    You are spot-on, regarding performance.  My BRS15 doesn’t handle a chop as well as a CS15, either.  But for 95% of my sailing conditions, this is not a factor.


    ”Better boat” depends upon the way the boat will be used.  In flat water, I’ll take the Amanda any day.  But the Spindrift will be quicker overall.

  7. That’s the down-side to a d/b.  They’re much simpler than a c/b, and take up less room.  But they are not bottom-friendly.  

    My approach is to let the d/b be the sacrificial part.  It is more easily replaced and repaired than the trunk.  So, I do “the rope trick”, and forget about it.  Since you’re still building, this is a good time to beef up the trunk, to make it more impact resistant. A little glass tape embedded into a fillet at the lower-aft and upper-forward corners will help the trunk to weather the storm.  Just make sure you don’t encroach on the d/b’s work zone.  These king posts are also a great place to use something hard like Ash.

  8. A lot depends on how you plan to use the boat— all sailing,  or as a yacht tender, or mostly rowing, etc.

    I’d like to bring the differences in hull shape into the conversation. I don’t have the plans for either, so much of this is based on the little amount of sailing I’ve done in both, and a lot of conjecture.  I think the differences between the Amanda and Spindrift’s hull shapes are similar to the difference between the Bay River Skiff and Core Sound hulls.  I own a Bay River Skiff 15.  I chose it over the Core Sound because I liked the lines better, and had only planned to sail on flat water.  I discovered the lower deadrise (angle of the “V” amidships) made for a very solid initial stability.  I believe the same holds true with the Amanda as compared to the Spindrift.  I have been surprised at how tender the Spindrift is upon entry.  (This disappears, once under way.)  I believe the Spindrift has a faster hull, however.  I also think the Amanda is “fuller” in the stern, which makes it more amenable for outboard motor usage.  Just watch Alan roar around another boat in this video taken at capsize camp.  (Zoom up to the 4 minute mark.). That’s the Amanda under power! 


    I know that I am touching Superman’s cape here*.  I expect a lot of rebuttal from Spindrift owners.  That’s OK.  That’s what this forum is all about.


    I need to add that there is a fairly good chance that I might build either boat in the future!  The nesting S9 would be a fine replacement for my Two Paw 8, which goes into the bed of the pickup truck when trailer camping.  But the Amanda would be a finer replacement for my BRS15, in a few years, when I start to struggle setting the masts in place.


    They are both fine boats.  If you can make it to the Messabout, B&B has both available for in-water evaluations.  That will help your decision immensely.


    * I always reserve the right to be wrong.

  9. I have a basic anchoring question, and I’d like to see how you all handle the situation.


    When cruising in the coastal marshes of the Carolinas (and elsewhere), the tidal current reverses every 6.5 hours or so.  This phenomenon does a fabulous job of pulling out your anchor, right about the time you’re getting into a sound sleep.  How do you all manage this situation?  A Bahamian Moor?

  10. Since the photo is here, and the question was asked— I believe the left side of this d/b is the forward edge, right?

    And here’s the video on embedding a nylon cord into the leading edge of your d/b.  I now do this on all my rudders as well as c/b’s and d/b’s.  It’s very durable.  And when it gets really bad, you can always remove it with a heat gun.


  11. My lomited wxperience with a balanced lug is that the downhaul requires a hefty tug.  A 4:1 system ir higher is recommended by Storer.  I know that this is a standing lug rig, and not aa balanced.  But the luff still requires significant tension.  The balanced lug rig I sailed did not have this.  The luff billowed, and kept me from coming about.  Not good.

  12. I “think” the sail gets hauled all the way up, and then the downhaul is tightened.  If this is done, I think the yard will be held close to the mast, eliminating the need for a parrel.  I didn’t want to comment on this, because I have only sailed this rig once.  Nate at the shop has sailed their Mandy.  I’d check out photos from past Messabouts.

  13. I’m stuck on the “if it’s raining while sailing” phrase.  First of all, who cares?  Wet is wet.

    Secondly, an Anderson/Elvstrom bailer works fine, as long as you’re going over 4 mph.  That’s what I have.  If installed properly, THEY DO NOT LEAK.  Many of us have them in our boats.  I meN, most of us do.

    Exactly what do you have in your boat— simply a drain hole and a plug? That would worry me more than an Anderson bailer. 

    The down side to a bilge pump is that now you need a battery.


    Just some random thoughts.

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