Don Silsbe
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Posts posted by Don Silsbe
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The tip of my masts are wood, so I just installed some threaded nutserts.
It was tricky getting everything straight and plumb.
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Congrats, stjoeguy!
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For example…
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@Gira Gira— I thoroughly enjoyed these videos! But I couldn’t help thinking that if I had wishbones on my cat ketch, I would string a gathering net/web on the underside, to gather up my sails for camping. It would probably need to be relaxed (or removed) for sailing. But when deployed, it would hold the sail up closer to the wishbone, and off your head.
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@Paul356– But haven’t I seen GiraGira in a few videos lately? Love his wishbones.
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Pig sticks can be like that. Happy for your successes.
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Exactly, Andy.
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I used fir ply on the first boat I built. I coated it with two layers of epoxy, but only glassed the bottom, & 1” up the sides. Over time, it checked badly. I spent a couple of months sanding it all down, filled the checks with fairing compound, and painted her up again.
She checked again! I should say that only the sides and interior checked, not the bottom. (Zoom in on this photo.)
If somebody is looking to save a buck by using fir, you lose the advantage when you sheath it with glass & fill it with expensive epoxy. Plus, you end up with a heavier product than if you just used epoxy-coated Okoume to begin with.
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I’d droll another hole in your existing plate, or double up on one hole. (I’m cheap.)
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So, yesterday evening, we went for a motor in Local Honey. I brought along a Lewmar 2.2# (2 kg) plough anchor I bought some time ago, because it was cute and cheap. We also had my 4# Danforth-ish along. I did an anchor drag test on both in the foothills sandy-mud-clay (listed in least to greatest percentage) that we are blessed with. I set them in about 12” of water, with about 2’ of chain. Neither anchor was able to set! Granted, this is not coastal Carolina pluff mud. BUT NEITHER WOULD SET!!! I’ll bring them both to the Messabout, for coastal testing. I had always considered the baby Lewmar a toy, and this test confirmed it. The Danny was a surprise, however.
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I’ve been thinking of ways I’d design the base under that roller to wedge the anchor in place. Just don’t spoil the finish on your pretty boat’s new deck.
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Thank you, Graham. I had already put the 4# Danforth(ish) back on my Bay River Skiff. Avocet will carry my 8# Danny, as well as Ted’s. I think the scope is the key. Some chain will be involved. But when you watch enough videos from Brooklin, ME, it’s easy to accept everything they say as gospel.
I’d love to try a 8# Mantus M1, but that’s $170, and my boating budget is rather small. Besides, my requisition for the 7.5 pound bronze beauty was rejected by the War Department.
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@Mark Rendelman— Might I suggest using a bow roller that will keep the anchor on place, when the trailered boat hits bumps in the road? Mine has a metal loop to keep it from becoming airborne. It also has sides, to keep the shank from sliding off onto the deck.
I installed it into a trough, which keeps the chain off of my brightwork on my BRS15. 
This winter, I will probably transfer the metal part to Avocet, as she has no bow roller at the moment.
(As PadrePoint said somewhere, I’m storing/improving/exercising her this winter, while the snow flies in his home state of Wisconsin.)
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So, according toGoeff Kerr and Maynard Bray of Offcenterharbor.com, the best anchor to have is a Herreshof/stock/fisherman/yachtsman anchor. I found two.
The first one is made of tarred steel.
The other is of manganese bronze.
I like the bronze, don’t you? -
Incredible workmanship, Kennneee! And thanks for all the testing and reporting. I use Captains, and High Build (aka Flagship). Lately, I’ve been playing with applying it with a foam roller, and tipping it off with a soft brush. At least this is what I do on large surfaces.
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Fir plywood. No thanks!
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I wouldn’t bother with varnish.
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@Aphers— Good point! Two questions to all:
1) What do you think about Danforth/Fortress-type anchors?
2) What type of anchor do you prefer on your boat? (Please state the size of your boat and anchor.) Is this a personal question???
My anchor is an 8# Danforth-type (w/15’ of chain). That’s what I used on my BRS 15 when I had my one experience. I didn’t wait for it to reset.
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Just go and have a look, Andy. And save a trip, by bringing your checkbook. It is a gorgeous boat.
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By the way, I have the same sort of rubber tiller extension on my Bay River Skiff. They are notorious for cracking and breaking with age. Because of this, I take the extension off the boat when not in use. It is only under stress when sailing. That way, it will never (?) fail while I’m using it.
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You nailed it! If you add a little bungee cord in your tensioning line, you'll be able to
make finer adjustments.
RE: ”Storer Wrap”
Meester included a link in one of his posts. It was to a Michael Storer website. (He’s the God-of-All-Things-Balanced-Lug.) On this website, Storer suggests wrapping the halyard around the yard. Here’s the link:
Bu I think a simple loop of line around the mast will hold the yard in place. Caveat: I have no experience on which to base this statement. Try stuff, and decide for yourself. That’s part of the fun!
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I took these photos of my system. I used odds & ends I had in my hardware box. You’ll notice first that it’s on the underside of the tiller. Also, there’s a short piece of bungee in the tensioning line. This gives me a wider range of adjustment.
This is how it looks under tension.
The green bridle clips on and off at the gunwales. Also, to quickly disengage the system, just unsnap the snap hook from the bridle.
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I use a poly tarp over framework. But the thickness should be 12mm or higher. Thinner that that, and they don’t hold up for long, especially with a snow load.
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Well, if you were out sailing on Kalos, I can’t grumble. Looking forward to the photos and to seeing y’all at the Messabout.
Working with wood screws
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
But don‘t most of us use mainly sheet metal screws on our boats? Come on. Fess up.