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Don Silsbe

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Posts posted by Don Silsbe

  1. OK, boys and girls, I have repented for past sins.  I believe my mistake was not paying attention the the evaporation of my thinner.  I think the paint simply got too thick for the final coat.  
    To quote Peter Noone, “Second verse, same as the first!”   Today, Two Bits got sanded down to a smooth surface.  IMG_9342.thumb.jpeg.7987c9245ca27613afe18a6082c8cef4.jpeg

     

    This afternoon, I dabbed gray primer where needed.  That’ll get a second coat tonight.  Tomorrow calls for fair weather.  (Meaning, I’ll fair any holes and spots that look needy.) By then, my rollers will have arrived.  Monday and Tuesday are booked, so maybe Wednesday is the big day to roll on a couple of thin coats of blue.  Let’s do this!

     

    Get this— I put on a long sleeved tee shirt and bibbed overalls to do the sanding.  Then, I put on my respirator and gloves, rolled up my sleeves, and got to work.  Rolled up my sleeves???  Doh!IMG_9341.thumb.jpeg.61ac73caebc2cb17a92ef74c7c0672ba.jpeg

  2. B’B’s built-up mast is very easy to make.  I know that on my Two Paw 8 an aluminum top section was available.  One might be available for yours.  (See photos below.)  B&B also fabricates end plugs out of Starboard.  I would not hesitate to build another one of these masts.  (I’ve built three so far.). It’s easy as pie, and would save you a lot of weight.  This weighs 7#.

    IMG_9338.thumb.jpeg.026413e0c5439aeac233ee9fdfa82bc3.jpeg

    Here are all three sections.  The top section has a shaft added for a masthead float.  The section on the right is shown inverted, with the bottom towards you.  This is how I built up the mast tubing to fit the existing mast step diameter.


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    This is a closeup showing how I built up the sections to fit into one another.  The hole in the bottom of the right (lowest) section is how I prevent mast rotation.  The plans call for something different, but there were reasons for me to do it this way. On this boat, I made the sections removable, so I can take it apart for easy storage.  On my Bay River Skiff, they are permanently glued together.  Also on that boat I used some lumberyard Spruce for the top section.  

    • Like 1
  3. Cruising on Avocet this winter has introduced me to sailing with a wonderful group os small boat sailors, tje West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron (Florida).  It has inspired me to have a go at a second design iteration for a tent.  The list of attributes must include:

    1) Being able to sit up inside.

    2) Being able to make my morning coffee out of the rain.

    3) Being weatherproof enough to withstand a 20mph breeze.

    4) Being able to adjust the anchor without dismantling the entire tent.

    There are other fish to fry right now, but I’ve already started sketching.

  4. Andy— Your new boat is going to be so different than Wildcat!  I’d love to be a fly on the wall when you start getting acquainted with her.  Unfortunately, I probably won’t get to see her this summer.  Our Michigan summer gets interrupted by three weeks of cataract surgery, back here in NC.  Keep us informed!

  5. I agree with Kennee, that the location of these “Silsbes” (funny) is not that critical.  I like them to be such that I can reach to both ends of the compartment below.

     

    I’m not talking about the front face.  I’m talking about the sealing surface between the underside of the lid and that inner rim of the assembly shown in your photos.  There needs to be a constant gap equal to about 1/2 the thickness* of the gasket foam you intend to use.  I used a 3/8” (10mm?) thick foam seal, so my gap is an even 3/16” (5mm).  The way I got this was by making my rims flush with the rest of the assembly, setting my router’s depth to 3/16”, and running it around the rim.  I’ve attempted to mark up one of your photos, to explain what I mean.  The black squiggly line is mine.  Hope this helps.
     

    * An assumption on my part.  I don’t see this specified on the plans, which I have not reviewed in a long time.

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  6. I hesitate to reply to this, because I don’t have an Amanda or Spindrift.  But the halyard should be lowered first, then the leech of the sail tightened up to the reef point.   The downhaul should then be transferred to the grommet in the luff of the sail associated with the reef points.  Then, the halyard is drawn up to put the boom in the “normal” position, more or less. Finish by tightening the new downhaul.  You may then gather up the excess foot of the sail with the nettles.

    Again, this is a general answer, and not Amanda-specific.  I do reserve the right to be wrong!  But I’ve been waiting for someone qualified to answer your question, to no avail.

    • Like 1
  7. I assume that you’ve both heard of the WCTSS?  They cruise these waters regularly.  I came down to FL this spring, just to hang out with them.  They are a friendly and helpful bunch of sailors!  Their website is wctss.net, plus they have a FB page.  Here’s a calendar of events for this year.  But they will also have some impromptu events as well.

     

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    • Like 2
  8. It’s a Ronstan product, although Harken makes something similar.  You use a 58 or 67, depending on line size.

     

    I sail in light air most of the time.  I prefer sheets no bigger than 1/4”.  Bigger lines than that are heavier, and dangle & drag in the water.  You could also use two sets of sheets.  It’s only money!

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