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Don Silsbe

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Posts posted by Don Silsbe

  1. When finishing with high gloss paints, any surface anomalies become exaggerated.  Using a finger joint is the best deterrent.  A 7:1 scarf is second best, although I can see a lump in one of my boats where I have one.  A reinforced butt joint has to come in last in this regard.  
    On the other hand, Chick is a master builder.  I am surprised at his statement.  I will need to revise my thinking; not about Chick, but about butts.  (Joints)

  2. It is my understanding that a CS20 mk 3 is only three sheets of plywood more than a 17.  Given the increased headroom for a person your size. That’s the logical choice.


    It makes sense to me that B&B’s plans would be drawn with scarfing in mind, but I haven’t seen those plans.  Good that Designer clarified it for you.


    Scarfing is easy.  It just takes time, as does laying out, cutting, and trimming.  You do know that every part should be cut proud to the line, and brought to the line with a block plane.  That’s the time consuming part.


  3. I have a 2.5 Suzuki on my Bay River Skiff.  It has a short shaft.  I had to notch the transom, to get it down far enough.  (I’d put an outboard bracket on my transom, if I had  it to do over.)  I did notice that if it is in neutral and idling, and I go forward to furl the main, the transom lifts out of the water enough to suck air into the cooling system.  This is an indication that the long shaft might be better. 

    I think @Joe Anderson just bought a Torqueedo for his EC 22 last year.  Maybe he’ll chime in.  

    I’ll have my Suzi with me, when I come to Sarasota in March.  Maybe we can play with it on yours, to get a feel for shaft length.

  4. I agree with Mark about the finger joints.  They will only work if they are CNC cut.  Without that level of precision, you are asking for a disaster.  I’ve built nearly all of my boats using a standard 7:1 scarf joint. Not sure what’s on the plans, but my money would be on that.


    As much as I love building from plans, I would never consider building a mark 3 from anything but a kit.  A kit takes long enough to build.  Building any cabin sailboat of this size required a lot of time and stamina.  Building from plans doubles the task.  This is just my opinion.  

    But I do want to add that these boats are awesome boats.  

  5. Nick,

    I’m sorry that nobody has stepped forward to answer your questions.  Certainly one or two (if not all) of the builders in Australia and New Zealand have solved this problem.  Maybe they’re just too busy enjoying the summer sailing season, to check the forum.  I hope someone from your side of the world comes forward soon!

  6. There’s a good chance we’ll be in Sarasota in March.  I’m attending a boating event with my Bay River Skiff 15, and visiting friends for a day or two as well.  I’d be happy to pop in and look things over.  My email address is donsilsbe@gmail.com.

    My c/b is weighted, so I may provide my bride with a nice lounging deck.  (See photo) The horn would have gotten in her way.  The horn (with uphaul and downhaul)  provides a much more precise method of controlling the board, though.8FA9EBD4-7E08-432A-A261-31217EABFD81.thumb.jpeg.d3e7f1515e65e967009c65103ce733c4.jpeg


    I like it that the U-bolts are vertical.  Backing plates or fender washers would be a good idea.  Not sure if the deck would withstand the load, if you attached to the bow cleat.  That depends upon how much wood is in the “sandwich”.  Maybe others will comment on this round of photos.

  7. First of all, I don’t see why you couldn’t add a couple of U-bolts on the transom to lift with your davits.  I have to assume that there’s a bow eye.53841E53-D9B0-4FCB-9B43-E0585F4F16A0.thumb.jpeg.a50a71afb1d3afc2e208b6ded87e4134.jpeg


    Some of the guys on this forum used to have Sea Pearls.  I’ll defer to them on that.  Let me just suggest that you sail this a few times and then sail a Sea Pearl. 


    Regarding your c/b pennant, I don’t see what’s wrong with just popping off that cap, and having a look-see.  I plan to be in Jacksonville and Avon Park in February, and Sarasota in March.  Where is the boat located?  Maybe I could help.

  8. I’ve been working on my mast, in between other projects.  They fit together nicely now.  Now, I’m working on cosmetics.  I’ve applied some Quick Fair (the tan) to the collars.  I get to smooth it up tomorrow.



    On another thread, I mentioned painting aluminum.  When I painted the masts to my Bay River Skiff, I used a Rustoleum etching primer with Rustoleum Marine paint over that.  It didn’t take long for the paint to flake off, where it comes in contact with the deck and seat.  Other areas have flaked, too.  So I dug into how they paint airplanes, per Alan's suggestion.  The old way was to use an alodine treatment.  But I learned how nasty this product was to use.  Then, I discovered a newer biodegradable product which is used by the Air Force, Boeing, and many other large companies.  It is called PreKote.  I bought some wipes from AIS (link below), but may be returning them in favor of the spray.  Here is a video produced by the company.  Check out the dropdown for a wealth of detail.


    Here’s the link to AIS:  https://aisdirect.com/?s=Prekote&et_pb_searchform_submit=et_search_proccess&et_pb_include_posts=yes&et_pb_include_pages=yes

  9. Additional photos would help.  

    From these two photos, it appears that the uphaul is aft of the pivot point.  It is puzzling to me that the uphaul is only 1:1.  This would make me want to pop off the entire c/b trunk cap, to see how it works.  You should be aware that you’ll need some sort of seal between the cap and the trunk, if you do this.  At first, I didn’t have a seal, and water splashed in via the aft end of the trunk.  I added a thin foam seal, and it has been dry ever since.  But this is a good puzzle.  Keep the photos coming.

  10. @kennee— The key is to heat up your Pop Tarts right after microwaving your epoxy.  The epoxy fumes really add a special kick to them!

    [Message from Don’s attorneys (Dewey, Cheatum, and Howe):  Please disregard last comment!)

  11. I agree with Hirilonde (and “Designer” Graham Byrnes, of course.)  But let me make a suggestion.  In your photos, I see a roughly 3”x3” pad  that attaches the turning block to the c/b trunk.  If you’re in luck, this pad will not be glued in place.  Regardless, I’d remove the block with the board down (boat in the water).  The terminal end of the line should be in view from the top of the c/b trunk for your inspection.  With luck, you might even be able to replace the line, if necessary.  

    I have also deviated away from the uphaul/downhaul system on my boat, and also use a weighted board.  Both have their advantages.  On my boat, the whole c/b trunk is easily removable for this inspection, which I do annually. I also use dyneema line for the pennant, switching to dacron in the latter portion of the system.  (My uphaul system is configured differently than yours, and is 4:1.)

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