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Posts posted by Don Silsbe
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Be sure to watch Alan’s latest video on CS17.3 setup. Lots to learn in there.
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I should explain that foam floatation is required for power boats. But all of B and B’s sailboats use air chambers for floatation.
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No need for foam. They were airtight floatation chambers. They weren’t big enough to be as effective as I would have liked.
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Is there no other way to enter photos except for a link? I want to add photos of my Flyfisher build, and can't find a build thread on the forum.
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Oh yeah. Not a biggie.
I’ll post some photos of my build in the build photo page.
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Hi there Bones! The Flyfisher 13 is a great starter boat. I built one a few years back. It was easy-breezy. I have two tips:
1. Be sure to sandwich the four end pieces, and cut & trim them as a single unit. They must all be perfectly the same for the boat to come out right. I simply shoot a couple of screws through the stack to hold it together. The screws are easy to back out when done. Those holes are easily filled, once you start doing your filets.
2. When gluing in the center reinforcement, be sure to use A LOT of weight. I didn’t, and the boat had a slight hogback shape in the bottom.
Not sure what you mean by sixed plywood. Please explain.
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Here’s the latest on my two-bit mods. The tanks are done. The interior had one coat of Devthane, and should get the second today.
The mast and boom are done. Eventually, I’ll paint the mast.
I even made a little masthead float for her! We’ll see if 5# floatation is enough to do the job. I know how to make a bigger one, now.
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@PadrePoint— I’m up for a side trip to Lake Charlevoix, but it would have to be before the rally/mess. Should I bring my my old Atomic parabolics? LOL
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Yay! Can’t wait for the maiden doing the maiden voyage.
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I see several on this site, but this is representative. I buy from them… too often!
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/panther-marine-10in-lift/55-0407al
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She is stunning, Jay. You must be so proud. I can’t wait to see her under way.
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This is where I am with mine. I glued the sections together with Gorilla glue, which was what Alan used on the first one. He had since recommended unthickened epoxy. But I had already boughten the glue, so what the heck. I forgot how it expands when wet— it oozed out between the cracks.
But it sanded OK. I glued in the tube and fin.
Today, I taped off half of the float, and applied some thickened epoxy to the cracks and voids. I draped the cloth, on the bias, over the float, and coated half. The glass cloth worked its usual magic. It confirmed to the shape, and only needed the slightest cuts at the very front and back.
I am impatient. Tonight, I trimmed part of the float. I’ll trim the rest in the morning. It is going to be awesome!
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@AmosSwogger— I just noticed that beautiful box you added to your cockpit. A brilliant idea. How did you cut the inside radius— a diagonal cut on a table saw?
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@Steve W— I imagine, in the grand scheme of things, what we use to glue the foam together isn’t too important. The fiberglass/epoxy shell is the master bonder here. I’m with you— glassing this teardrop makes me nervous. I’m planning to affix the fin first, and bond the whole all at once(a half at a time). I just hope someone imparts some wisdom, or shares their experience, before I get to that point.
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@Hirilonde— You jogged my memory. I now remember that I glued a strip of Ash to the poplar keel of my Two Paw. Duh!
But while laying on my back, making adjustments to the new trailer for my Bay River Skiff, I noticed some bare wood on the keel.
It is White Oak, so I’m not too worried for the immediate future. (She is usually stored dry, on a trailer.) But I may complete my wear test. Some time ago, I epoxied some fiberglass, nylon wenbing and Dynel to strips of wood. I always intended to test them, and compare the results. I still have the strips. I just need to find the time to set up and do the testing. No rush, since I won’t repaint the boat until the registration sticker expires in 2024.
@mattp— I have a feeling that the webbing and Dynel are going to do well in this test.
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@Hirilonde— I agree. I always applaud thinking out of the box.
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My modifications to my Two Paw 8 are slowly taking shape. In priority, they lag behind spring landscaping, prepping for camping in a week, and final preparations for a little messabout I’ve organized. But I hit it a lick now and then. I’m working on the floatation tanks at the moment. I’ll open up the front seat area, and move storage to the side tanks.
I’m also looking ahead to rowing seat changes, based on Tom’s Expedition TP8 at the last B&B Messabout. My rowing position is too far forward; his boat rowed much nicer than mine. Fortunately, I found a photo of his setup. I’ll use that as reference. -
I just got my kit Saturday. Can’t wait to glue it up. Looks like Alan used Gorilla glue for the foam. I was thinking of Titebond III, but I’ll probably follow Alan’s lead.
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@PadrePoint— yes. On my boat (see photo above), the stem meets the keel in a sharp corner. It’s not like the Core Sounds or Spindrifts, which have a curved lower bow. I’m not sure I can round this bend with hollowback.
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I’m beginning to see the value in adding a metal strip to the keel of my Two Paw and my Bay River Skiff. Here are my questions:
1) Where is a good source for buying it?
2) Should I use hollowback or half round metal, or something else?
3) Is brass OK, or should I stick with stainless?
4) What is the best way to attach it?
Belhaven 19 bimini
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I don’t have halyards on my boat. But if I did, it would be like this: https://l-36.com/HybridHalyard.php