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Don Silsbe

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Posts posted by Don Silsbe

  1. 7 hours ago, Reacher said:

    I was able to construct the new bulkhead in one piece so that was a plus.

    I won’t have that luxury on my 17 mk1. I’ll need to make it in two pieces, and use the aft side of the tabernacle as a butt block.  If I can’t get each piece into the hatch, I’ll need to cut an insertion slit in the bulkhead to the rear, and patch it up afterward.  Good times!

  2. Well, the new owner took her out for a sail with his son last Saturday.  They had a delightful time.  IMG_4019.thumb.jpeg.0b77c3944de2ff3ce38ddb7a74e1de0e.jpeg


    When pulling her out and up to the parking lot to derig, the main mast struck a limb, and snapped off at the deck!  IMG_2128.thumb.jpeg.18fe9936e5329cf3fe76b6bfb01ddf04.jpeg

    He is determined to do a temporary repair, to get him through this season.  He plans to make a new one this fall/winter.  I think he’s crazy, but he is confident it will work.  Oh boy!

  3. @Todd Stein— Please provide me with a photo of your bullnose setup.  I’m trying to decide what to do with my CS17.1.  Right now, I’m thinking that Graham’s way is best for me, since my boat will mostly be used for daysailing.  Most of the time, a bow roller would just be a nuisance.  But the Rocna I intend to buy self deploys off a roller like a rocket.  (I learned this on Ted’s Avocet.) I might get a bow roller, and make it removable with 1/4” tee nuts and bolts.  If so, your system would be desireable.

  4. This is how I use a ball on my halyards.  I learned this trick from my Wayfarer friends.  They use these balls everywhere!  To release it, you simply pull on the ball to loosen the knot.  

    Please note that this ball is too small.  Don’t use this size.  I didn’t have one available for the photo, so I did this mockup on my work bench using a smaller ball.  Get the red ones shown in my earlier post.


  5. On 5/2/2024 at 12:15 PM, Hirilonde said:

    Will do Don.  I think the greatest stress will occur taking the mast down. That is the most difficult thing to control without a swivel/collar or what ever we end up calling these things. For the main mast I have to lean forward over the fore dech, lift the mas to just out of the tube before lowering.  At this point my hands as the closest to the pivot, hence the greatest lever arm force. When raising I start at the mid point of the mast and move down as the mast goes up.  So not quite the same ratio until the mast is almost up. Like everything about sailboats, I am sure there is a learning curve for using this thing.

    I envision the greatest stress being mast wobble.  That occurs when you have the mast is in the pivot but not the hole, and a gust of air (or touch of vertigo) causes the mast to swing from port or starboard.  That’s what worries me.

  6. Your mizzen setup looks good.  If you can eliminate the twists in the snotter, between the mast and the forward end of the sprit, it will take less effort to adjust the snotter.  (Tighter for stronger wind, looser for light air.). By the way, we don’t say “sprit pole”, just “sprit”.  And while we’re on the subject of terminology, on a sailboat, the pulleys are called blocks.  It feels weird to read the word “pulley”, when reading your post.  (Sorry for being persnickety, but I want you to sound as good as your boat looks.)

    I see that your mizzen sheet has a big sag in it, running forward from the clew to the forward (not “front”) end of the sprit.  Many sailors add a cloth sleeve halfway up the sprit to keep it out of the way. I think I used a ring, when I rigged my boat that way.  They both work.IMG_5827.thumb.jpeg.107aba078bd1dc5bca0eaa00e2577ce4.jpeg

    I agree with you about not needing a bungee on the clew.  But that is only if you do not reef your sails.  If you ever reefed your sails without the bungee, it would slip off easily.



  7. We are making incredible progress!  Eleven man-hours in a day and a half.  The hulls are all covered with a coat of primer.  Tomorrow, we flip her over and sand & primer the cockpit and decks.




  8. Padre Point drove down yesterday to help with the build!  We’ve shifted gears, and are working on sanding the hull, and getting primer on.  We made fantastic progress yesterday afternoon.


    We flipped the hull.



    Gave her a rinse to remove blush.IMG_1993.thumb.jpeg.01119ded4754e583a9d0d5bb91802f60.jpeg


    Then we sanded.  We did this to all three hulls.  My neighbor-helper Brodie is delighted that Ted saved him from Sanding Hell!IMG_1994.thumb.jpeg.363db2b0d16c0a9c6446e42f7c6a30bd.jpeg



  9. The answer is yes to all your questions!


    It does make a difference.  When I used PadrePoint’s CS17.3 last winter, I quickly became a believer.  It is easier to walk the mast up the picot than try to hit the hole with a long awkward pole.  Once in position, while on my knees to secure the bottom nut, I simply applied pressure with my shoulder.  I am so convinced of the tabernacle’s benefits that I will retrofit one to the mark 1 I am refurbishing later this year.  That retrofit is going to be a challenge, to be sure.  I will document the mistakes, er, progress here on the forum.  But first, I need to complete a trimaran build.  

    Since I am halfway on my journey from 70 to 80, I see the tabernacle as a good plan for the next “couple” of years.  Then, I might need to drop down to an Amanda.


    The plug on the bottom keeps out critters, and also the rain while driving down the road at 70 mph (or so).



  10. I hope you are changing subjects.  The line that you raise the sail with is a halyard.  It can be attached to the top of the sail (called the head) by many methods.  A simple shackle can be used.  So can a knot.  On a Core Sound 17 I worked on, I used a large ball.  This is simple, once you know the secret to using it.  IMG_8092.thumb.jpeg.1387d3ee016f1afd0a4da60168d79dc8.jpeg


    The word “sheet” is what we call the line(s) that connect to the lower rearward corner of the sails (the clew), and never the sails themselves.image.thumb.jpeg.a833484d486943536a0a8aeee9caf147.jpeg

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