wasserboot

Hello Howard, i have a litte experience with traditional planking and striplanking but not with plywood But i think it works with plywood too. I would temporary fasten a long and strong flat batten* on the bulkheads ( i tried to sketch it with photoshop at one of your previous picture) On these batten i fix with hotmelt glue some thin strips of wood which have a point edge on one side. This pointed edge goes till the centerline. Then you lay that batten with the little woodstrips on your bottomboard and mark the pointed edges on your bottom bord. Then you lay a flexible not too stiff long batten acros the marks and scribe a line along the batten. That is the edge to be cut. But i think you do not have to be so exact with the bottom boards. As i understand the plans (i hope i understand them right), you have to plane the centerline because the deadwood/keel has to fix there. I hope you understood my worse english *do not twist or distort this batten. Fix it carefully without twisting it. Trust the given shape of this what looks like a ladder which is cut in the half lengthwise....

Howard that looks good!! did you "spot weld" the topsides to the bulkheads? Or are they fixed only with the few screws that are shown in the photographs? thank you for keeping us informed about your progress.

Howard, It looks good! I think it is a good idea to screw in temporary cleats. I am scared about that screws will split the thin bulkheads whilst turning the hull. Another option might be to tie it together with copper wire (stitch and glue like). the hull will stay flexible when turning it without the danger of breaking screwholes...

really nice scarfs you made!! Well done! Thank you for sharing your progress @ LennieG: Last week i borrowed this saw: http://www.amazon.de/Mafell-KSP40-Flexistem-Max-Flexisystem/dp/B0013DJE46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406389485&sr=8-1&keywords=mafell+ksp+40 it cuts amazing smooth curves. The blades are 120 mm ø and the motor has power like a bigger saw...

Thank you Howard, the epoxy "tack welding" seems to be a good idea. I am afraid that screws will break out of the thin bulkheads plywood while turning the hull...

Howard,thank you for your answer, unfortunately my english is not the best, i have to ask another question to be sure that i understand right. To achieve a good shape, stiffness and symmetry you screw temporary chines just beneath the chine? The shear clamp is clamped to its later position but not glued yet. so you just glue the edges of the sides to the bottom without having done the fillets? The bottom panels where cut oversize and just edge glued to the keel plank, stem and the sides.? The bulkheads are just screwed not glued to the sides yet. Then after turning the hull carefully everything has to be trued up, leveled and fixed with epoxy fillets, right? For deadwood construction it would be easier to turn the hull upside-down again or will you mount it form the underside when the hull is right side up? Thank you Sönke

Hello wayne, i like this kind of rigg. Is reefing easy done? especially singlehanded? Regards Sönke

Congratulations! i bought the P26er Plans last winter. Unfortunately i did not find a suitable shed for building. So i have to build a temporary carport this summer before i start building. Please keep us informed and updated with your progress. I like this cradle for the bulkheads it is a very good idea. Will you install chine stringers? or do you build without them like in the building plans? I wonder, if the boat will have better symmetrical shape if using chine stringers.... Or are this unnecessary doubts? Best regards Sönke

Thanks Peter. i will order the 26 PS Plans next weeks.While studying them there will occur some more questions to discuss .All the best for your 28er project!Sönke

Hello Peter,thank you for answering.I do not dream of 200cm standing headroom in a 28`boat ;-)Sitting headroom will be enough for me. Only a long bunk of 210-220 cm is very important.I am located in northern Germany at the estuary of the river Elbe. This part of the North Sea can be quite rough sometimes. Especially when the Northwester blows again the 4-5knots ebb current.So a boat being a little bit bigger as 26´ will be nice for safety reasons. And in the waddensea shoal draft is needed.I think i wait for Grahams answer about a stretched PS 26 or i will ask him about the Plans for the PS 28.Two further questions:Do you know if an hardchine Plywood Version of the 28er is on his drawing table?Do you have wooden or aluminium masts for your boat? all the bestSönke P.S. i forgot to say:You are building a beautiful boat!!!

Hello, i am a new forum member from Germany.Some month ago i thought about to build a NIS26 but hesitate because of the "kit only" option. No plans are sold alone.i want to be more flexible with interieur. Then i googled and found the B&B Princess 26 and fell in love with her.i am 6´7" (2meters) tall. So i asked Mr. Byrnes via email if the 26 could be enlarged a little bit to achieve 210 cm long berth.But did not get an answer yet.Reading in this forum i found this thread about a princess 28. ​I do not find the plans on the B&B homepage.Can you tell me if this Princess 28 is just an stretched 26?Or is it an own design? Is there a Plywood-hardchine option too?Please excuse my english it is not so good as it should be for a conversation here. So i did not read and understand all posts in this thread.Thank you very much for your advicebest RegardsSönke