wasserboot

...what a wonderful boat! I wish you wonderfull moments on it. Please post further pictures of it....

I have not used it yet. Because i have a German manufacturer near by. But on their homepage is written, that they produce Lloyd´s, BS1088 and CE certificated Plywood. So it should be good material. But you should take care, that your Hardwood Store sells you the right plywood for your project and not plywood for indoor use. http://de.plywood.mourikis.gr/εφαρμογεσ.html read the last column it is German but you see the certificates...

well known Paul Gartside uses thickened epoxy in some of his double or triple planked designs. I would first saturate the planks with unthickened epoxi and screw them a little bit later with thickened after the unthickened is in the still sticky state. that will provide starvation of the gluejoints. Some interesting pictures, is this the Ashcroft way of planking?: http://www.gartsideboats.com/custom-boatbuilding/24-ft-cutter-design-ila-98.html

Yes, an experienced sailmaker needs the dimensions, shape of the roach, the location of the reefing cringles and a photo of an p22 sail, that he can notice, that it is a sprit not a classic marconi-boom that gives the shape. He must know, that the sprit is poked through the cringle at the clew for beefing up the corner of the sail a little bit. It will be good to give him information what kind of masttrack you will use. This link may help him for understanding your needs better: http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/why-a-cat-ketch/ Perhaps, before you can talk with Graham about if battens or not?

Greg, i think every sailmaker could make a pair of p26 sails if you give him Grahams plan and the dimensions of the sails. Show him some photos of the arrangement of the "boom" and the snotter and he will know what to do... It is more an oldtimer sail than a modern "hightech laminate thing" that every skilled sailmaker could make for you ... regards Sönke

Hull speed will be about 6.7 knots calculated by V=2,43x √LWL (metric formula, the imperial is 1.34 instead of 2.43) I think a P26 will plane if a powerfull motor is installed. Graham can calculate it more exactly i think...

Your 5hp Motor will be enough on a lake with no strong currents. It is a sailboat at first ;-) Here on the river Elbe, the Northsea and the waddensea with strong tidal currents of 5-6 knots i would go with a 8-10hp motor. So it depends on the water you intend to sail. All the sum of costs is what let me hesitate to start building yet. I would have to pay rent for a workshop. So i can not make a break for a year or so if my business does not bring in the needed money for building materials. A shed or workshop is very expensive here to rent. So better i would build a shed on my ground. But a building permisson is not easy to get by local authorities. Its all not as easy as it should be ...... Good luck and a prospering business for your project ! All the best Sönke

Beatifull boat your Pilgrim! I ordered the P26 plans 3 Years ago. it would be the perfect boat for our Waddensea here in northern Germany. Unfortunately my job does not allow me to do some boatbuilding. I hope the economy will rise a little bit in future and i can spend more time and money for that nice boat...

Here in northern Germany and the Netherlands we had some worse floods in the past. So i wish to all of you, living at the coastline , good luck and may your dykes stay strong and sturdy!!! The Sealevels will rise the next decades and i think our dykes today are not high enough to stand the floods that may come in future caused by the climate change. So it is a important to invest in buildings to protect the coastlines and to avoid global warming if possible... All the best from northern Germany Sönke I hope it will become not as worse like this : https://halligblog.wordpress.com/category/wetter/landunter/ http://bc03.rp-online.de/polopoly_fs/fischmarkt-hamburgstadtteil-altona-elbstrasse-hochwasssturmflut-ueberschwemmt-1.1904514.1315885153!httpImage/4102448792.jpg_gen/derivatives/dx510/4102448792.jpg http://www.lauritzen-hamburg.de/fotos_emma/hochwasser_morsum1_gross.jpg

Amazing video! Nice boat in nice landscape.. I guess they now where to go... ;-)

Fortunately a friend of mine is a professional carpenter. I can borrow his Mafell Handsaw if i need it. It is small but powerfull. It makes wunderful curved cuts because of his small 120 mm Ø blade. And because of its powerfull motor he uses his bigger Handsaw really seldom. It is very handy in its box and for straight cuts the guide is very helpfull. The qualtiy is top class.

Wunderful job you did! i am keen on seeing more pictures. especially details of the rigging when it is completed. Have a lot of fun with her!

It is not so easy to work with chisel and plane. But it is very durable and fungi-resistant. It is used for windows. So it should be no problem to use it in modern plywood-epoxi boatbuilding

Howard, that looks good! For changing blocks in future: will you have access to the kingpost block once the Case is glued together? Perhaps ist placing the block in the same corner, but to the centerboardcase-caps underside easier to maintain?

Really nice picture! Is reefing easy? Is it done from the cockpit or do you have to go to the mainmast?

Hello All! thanks for your words. I just initiated this topic, because of the possibility to get these flagpoles for 100€. So i learned here that it is not a good choice to use them. I am still at the stage of converting all the measurement to metric and did not start "real building" yet. The everydays life takes more time than i like ;-) But it is good to know that there is a good solution for the mast building. When being in the stage of this i will best write to Graham for the actual specifications for the tubes. Good to know, that the "tensile strength" is the important factor for picking the mastmaterial. Howard, i am a follower of your building thread! Thank you for the good documentation..

Hello Paul, I think i am able to read my plans and really found no hints about the 3 part mast made of aluminum. It is not easy to work from imperial plans and the foreign language is sometimes confusing me. Especially the nautical terms and special sayings, phrases and jokes that derogate from my school english that is long time gone... But with the help of the internet and the kind people here almost every thing is possible.. best regards Sönke

Thank you all! When the time comes to build the Masts, i will ask Graham for an updated spar plan. The one i actually have for the P 26 seems to be an early version. I did some research in the www for aluminium tubes i fond this one in Germany(their website is in english too): http://www.wmh-group.com/products/tubes-made-of-aluminium/dinen-round-tubes.html As i understand their make length up to 20 meter. Their Stock list is: http://www.wmh-group.com/fileadmin/stock_list/WMH_Aluminium_Round_Tubes.pdf And they are loceted in the USA too: http://www.wmh.de/unternehmen/standorte/usa-incorporation/usa.html A question to the Metallurgists: is it really so important to use 6061 Aluminum? or does another alloy they sell work too? Are the different alloys so different that is it important to get the only one?

A mast made of 3 sections aluminum tubing is worth to consider. It will not look as elegant as an continuously tapered Mast. But it is a cheap and it seems to be a good working alternative to the carbon or spruce masts. Good spruce or slow grown fir is not obtainable here or it is extreme expensive. So i will stay to aluminum In my P26 plans there is only one birdsmouth version. It is completely made of wood or the version made of 16 feet aluminium tubing with a wooden or fiberglas top. so i will find Alan´s video... Thank you all !

Thank you, i found tubes 0,125" wall thickness that weigh 14 Kg at 16 feet length. That is really light. So i have to use light wood for the top...

Thank you Peter, now i understand!

Thank you, of course i do not want a weak mast. So i will not buy this Flagpoles. Unfortunately there is no expected weight in the spar plans. ​But there are two mast versions. One Mast completely made from Wood. And another is made from a bottom part of Aluminium Tube and a upper part of Wood or fiberglass. So is it right, that this bottom Aluminium Tube is untapered? The plans are not so precise or may be my english is too bad to understand it right. In the Spar plan is written:"lower section of mainmast to be 4"x 0.125" 6061 T6 Aluminium" So i guess it is untapered? And just the upper Part is made tapered? Thank you for Help.

Hello, i have the opportunity to get 2 tapered Aluminium Poles. They are 8 metres Long the diametre is from 120mm to 70mm . Weight is 27 kg (sorry i am living in the metric part of the world). 
In imperial it should be about 28 feet long and diameter is from 4 7/10" to 2 8/10" weight is 59#
. Will they be good enough for a Princess 26? Or are they too heavy? What do you think is best suited for the boat (no carbon - too expensive) ? I do not know what kind of aluminium-alloy it is...The orign use was for street Lanterns or Flagpoles

You are making good progress! It seems that you will celebrate the turnover ceremony this years

Howard, your string method worked good! Well done! Sönke