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PAR

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Everything posted by PAR

  1. Most alkyd varnishes will add an amber color to bright finishes, particularly if they say "marine" or "traditional" on the label. The polyurethanes and acrylics can be much clearer, in terms of added color. The transom I posted is veneers of mahogany glued to the actual transom, with both epoxy, a layer of 3.8 ounce cloth and traditional alkyd varnish. The image was shot in the finalizing the fit out stage. I made decisions to change the waterline height, so it was straight across the transom and also had to fill some seams with more epoxy, after removing the first few coats of varnish (yeah, sanded it all off). The image can be enlarged quite a bit, so you can see the divots and seams I wanted to fill in.
  2. I'll second the bright transom . . .
  3. Extend the bunks to the end just at or just past the transom face. It'll save a "hook" issue later on.
  4. Small repairs are pretty common at this point. You can grind them out and place a plug of fabric if you like. I don't bother, unless the area is in a sensitive area, like an outside corner, where impact is likely. A small 1" diameter area will be tough enough with a thickened filler, then faired to surrounding areas, if not very vulnerable.
  5. From a marketing point of view a very narrow area of focus for plan sales
  6. I'm a dog weenie and openly admit it . . .
  7. I wonder how much buffing time was spent, just prior to your arrival, to make it look that good . . . Yeah, you're right, I've seen his work too, he has a clue (more than one). . .
  8. Yep, I use a locking clevis pin too, but only because my other half is too anal for a spring clip (California kid).
  9. A 5HP is nice and likely a 30 amp service, maybe more, depending on the motor. Two stage is also nice, but maybe a little over the top for a home setup. You can get by with a 3 HP, which is about 6 CFM and enough to run a HVLP gun. The tank size will govern how often it'll cycle, as you stand there waiting for it to catch up. A 4 HP is a good home owner compressor and can run most equipment except sanders. A 5 HP can run some sanders, but again it's the reserve capacity that makes the system work with air heavy needs (like sanders). My whole point with the new system was to run any sander, particularly my twin piston inline. This puppy needs lots of air (over 10 CFM+) continuous, so if the tank is small, it has to "time out" and catch up, which is a pain in the butt. A big tank can be mounted anywhere, a buddy couldn't find a place for his, so it's on the roof of his shop.
  10. It's pretty easy to adjust a hitch to fit the ball, but it'll still move around a bit. In fact, I've never purchased a trailer that was adjusted properly. There's always some slop, if only for rotational movement on all three axis. I've had the same thing happen, though didn't lose the hitch, but did feel it yanking at the ball, so I stopped and it was nearly lose enough to have popped off. Yep, a good solid downward force on the ball solves this and she'll trailer better. Light boats don't put a lot of torque on the ball/hitch, so you can get lots of wear out of it, but heavy rigs quickly show where you need to address stuff.
  11. I'll bet I can find enough room in your panel with a few "piggybacks". A sub is easy too. One good way to get a big tank is to go to the natural gas dealer and pick up a 60, 100, 100 gallon tank. Many of these above ground tanks can't be certified anymore, so they sell them as junk or nearly so. New the smaller ones are rated at 200 PSI which is more than you need. They have a relief valve built it, but you'll wan to change this to what you compressor can take. Some welding at a local fabricator and a bigass tank. Most also have a petcock on the bottom too, for draining. My 80 gallon was a little rusty, but solid. Something about the piping or valves meant it couldn't be certified as a gas tank, so $50 later I had a big tank. I welded in two 3/4" bungs for a new 150 PSI relief valve and regulator tap. and a few 1/2" for crossover and cooling pipes.
  12. Damn, everyone's getting hurt or falling ill, just at the time when spring is here and things can get done and splashed. Get rest, lots of it and she'll happily be waiting for 'ya, when you're better.
  13. I can set you up with a 240 VAC feed if you want when I get up there. It's pretty easy, assuming you have a panel handy to place a breaker in. Save up some 12/2 gauge and you'll likely just need a 20 amp breaker (of the type that fits your panel) An appropriate receptacle and a remodel box and that's about all you need.. 2 HP isn't much CFM (as you've found), though with a typical HVLP gun, if you have "capacity" by way of a big tank, you can get by on small projects. I had the same issue a few years ago and just bit the bullet and got a big 7 HP compressor and an 80 gallon tank. Not leaving well enough alone I found another 80 gallon tank, slaved them with a cooling line between and reworked the intake side to much better filtering and external feed, so it wasn't as loud. I also wrapped the tanks and enclosed the compressor, again to control noise. Not too bad now and the huge tankage, means it doesn't have to cycle very much during a spray job, especially with HVLP guns. For your 2 HP, consider the LVLP guns, which are available, though not as common. They use much less line volume, so you can get more, per cycle, but the patterns are smaller. I'm a pressure pot guy, but the gravity fed guns use less pressure too. http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/Difference_between_hvlp_vs_Lvlp.html
  14. Winch tower/post/stand, pick one . . . I've found with light boats (anything less than a ton) and an average tow vehicle (midsize car, small pickup), you want as heavy a tongue weight as practical. With powerboat trailers, this means moving the axle back as fair as it'll go on most, so the weight of the boat is a bit forward of the axle and pressing down on the hitch. No, it's not balanced, but it does tow better, as the hitch stays constantly engaged with the ball. If you want to wear out a hitch or ball quickly, let the hitch bounce around on the ball for a few hundred miles, because it's lightly loaded. I like to set mine so I can just comfortably lift it, so it's about 100 pounds on most small boats. You can lift this, but you don't want to very many times, before using the jack. The only time I have to lift it, is to place it on the ball if I've missed pretty bad, when backing up. I use the jack all other times. Get a good jack. These come is way too weak, too flimsy and finicky models. The wheel at the bottom and the jack mechanism seem to be the weak links. A double wheel has better bearing area, which is good for me, as we have nothing but sand to put them down in. Some have just a flat plate which are good, but don't roll. I don't roll anything but the smallest boat on the jack wheel, as it's just to easy to bend them. The mechanism should be a planetary gear set, not the stamped set. Pull the (plastic) cap on the top of the winch and you'll see the gear set. If they're cut plates of steel stacked on top of each other, try to find one that has cast or forged gears, which look solid. These last a lot longer, especially if the boat is heavy. Swing up models tend to be built cheaper than non-swing ups. Look at a horse trailer jack and compare the pieces to what you have and you'll see the differences.
  15. There are lots of things to consider with trailers, though most are geared for outboard powered craft, which causes issues with small sailors. Length can afford a bit of sailboat hanging off the aft portion of the frame, without harm, assuming fitted bunks that'll stick out an inch or so past the transom. More important than length is axle adjust-ability. Most trailers have a angle iron type of frame for the leaf springs. These can be unbolted and slid fore or aft. In most cases for a CS series size boat, you'll likely move them all the way aft. This will offer some tongue weight and the boat will ride better underway. These boats are so light, you'll want as much tongue weight as practical. For short trips and/or flat ground any wheel diameter will do, but most of us doing any serious towing will prefer a larger diameter. I consider 12" a minimum, but I've seen some with smaller go a long way. These boats are so light, I don't think it matters that much and a smaller wheel means you're in the water quicker at the ramp. Construction would be: aluminum structural "C" channel, galvanized steel structural "C", Box or rectangular rail or lastly stamped steel rail as the preferred types and materials, in descending order. Finding an aluminum C channel or I beam would be hard in this size, but lots of steel ones are around, though the box or rectangular tube type are most common, along with the much more flimsy stamped steel stuff. The stamped steel ones are also commonly bolted together, which can make them portable, but also cause them to rattle loose and rust quickly. I have a 28' aluminum I beam tandem, that I wouldn't surrender without a serious gun battle, but good luck finding anything in aluminum for less than 20'. Trailer width is a two edged sword. I prefer a higher mount on small craft like the CS series, but a lower mount on larger craft, where the extra depth can make launching easier. A higher mount can also carry things, like spars on the trailer, instead of on the boat and other things like trailer boxes for spares. These also can make getting loaded and unloaded easier, because you're higher off the water, before it floats. I consider anything less than 20' pretty darn small, so treat them as such, so the low mount, maybe with a tilt tongue can be justified, if you're in really shoal waters, like I am. Suspensions are typically leaf springs, but if you do serious towing, consider upgrading the a torsion spring. There's few different types, but the spring rates are more geared to smaller, lighter craft. Spring rates for most trailers you find will be too heavy for a CS series. If it has multiple leaves consider pulling one or two out of the leaf stake. It's easy and they usually just fall apart once the thing is unbolted and unpacked. Replacement springs of the appropriate length, just lighter weight are also available. The best trailer I had and wish I still had was a "truck arm" setup with a set of motorcycle shocks on it. Two long, slightly diagonally set arms came back from the front cross brace and were bolted to the axle. The spring over shocks were mounted on the frame outboard and of course to a bracket on the axle end. Nicest single I ever owned and I don't know who made it. Support is the biggest thing with trailers. Centerline rollers, as many as practical, even if you need to install an extra cross brace. Bunks are the usual route, but I like stands on heavier boats. Bunks works fine, but cause a lot of friction loading and unloading. Stands don't, as they simple submerge once you back in, getting the back of the boat free and floating faster. Floppy top stands are what I use and their sole role is to prevent the boat from flopping over when cornering over the road. They carry little weight underway. The rocker on boats of this general size is usually shallow enough, that bunks are just fine for most. If you like your boat, don't ever consider rollers on the bunks or "roller bunks". This is the easiest way to pop seams and fasteners in wooden boats.
  16. PAR

    Is DuckWorks dead?

    Sounds like someone forgot to renew their domain . . .
  17. It looks like DuckWorks Magazine has had some issues. Has anyone any information on this site? http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/
  18. Title and registration efforts in Florida are pretty easy for a home built. Contact the "Fish and Wildlife" department and arrange for them to come out for an inspection. They'll send an officer, who'll look her over and go over the paper work that'll need to be sent to Tallahassee. With the paperwork filled, you'll eventually receive a registration and title. USCG flotation testing has nothing to do with home built units, unless attempting to meet class and/or commercial certification requirements - read lots more paper work and yes, some testing, though usually a (NA supplied) stability booklet will do instead of incline testing. Where (part of FL) are you receiving this information?
  19. There are some materials that just shouldn't be used on a boat and particle board is one of them, as is Masonite. Even encapsulated, they'll just piss you off in the end.
  20. The Vacationer is a design I know well. Being a flat bottom boat, you only need to level her side to side, then jack up one end, until the transom edge and the stem/bottom planking joint are about as described above. A cheap single line laser will cost less than $10 bucks, though a self leveling one, that produces both vertical and horizontal lines can be had for about $30 bucks.
  21. I've found the Vacationer will trim with the transom just free of the water, though this is highly dependent on crew location and how over built the boat tends to end up. With the skipper married to a wheel, she'll trim down aft a bit, maybe enough to have the transom just kissing the water. If looking for a good starting point for the boot stripe, level the boat side to side and jack her up at the bow until a laser level will touch the bottom plank/stem joint and the corner of the transom, at the same time. This is roughly level, but a bit heavy. Measure up on the transom an 1 1/2" and make a mark. Measure up on the stem/bottom plank joint about 1" and connect these two points with your laser level. This will be the bottom of the boot stripe. It's a real good idea to "sweep" this line with about an additional 1" forward and about a 1/2" aft. This simply means when you pull your tape to mark the bottom of the boot, about 48" - 60" aft of the stem you'll gradually raise the line in a nice sweeping curve up to the new slightly raised mark. The same is done at the stern, though start about 36" - 48" forward of the transom for this slight curve. This creates an optical illusion on the bottom of the boot stripe line, so she'll look like she's in good trim, when in fact she'll rarely be so. The top of the boot stripe line is treated the same way, but with a little more sweep in the ends, maybe as much as 3/4" forward and 3/8" aft. The reality in these builds, is the actual LWL may very well be all over the place from one project to the next. Unless you've had a real LWL, likely employed as a base line in the lines and construction drawings, it's just a guess, which isn't a problem. Build her well enough to get her in the water and mark, where it eventually turns out to be. Again, not that uncommon a thing and a "build to the work" not to the plans thing. You have two choices, build to the plans or build to what you have (the work). Building to the work always looks better, though will probably add (or subtract) from your bald spot a touch.
  22. Interesting solution Graham. I played with making something similar a few years ago, but went with a split ring (instead of captive ball) arrangement. It's funny how we approuch things. I was working through this on my old 35' CCA Lion Class, converted to yawl. I need a better way to hoist, douse and furl the mizzen mule, which was a sail I liked to use fairly frequently. I had a couple of different staysails and wanted a relatively cheap way to have everything attached, so I could hoist from a cockpit locker, dog down and runout pretty quickly. The drums I found commercially were either too big, quite costly or had too much diameter to be effective on the smaller sails I was using. Initially, I tried what I saw in a Karver bottoms up setup, but didn't like the lack of furling line exit adjustment. Eventually I made a drum that worked pretty well, once I got the friction thing worked out and a Ronstan 60 series swivel, for their code zero/drifter setup.
  23. They are likely looking for some turtle soup . . .
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