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Howard

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Everything posted by Howard

  1. I know it was mentioned before, but in case it sailed right past without notice, SHART TOOLS are essential. I would suspect a large majority of woodshop/workshop injuries would result from tools that are not sharp. Not only are dull tools less efficient (and fun) to work with, but the additional effort required to get anything done means loss of control over what is happening, or about to happen. This also extends to powertools, like saws, etc. Sharp tools will cut. Dull power saw blades will stop cutting and start grabbing and that may mean either a flying hand powered saw or tool, or if a table saw, the piece you are cutting goes airborne and it could be coming right back at you. BTW, related, all table saws used for ripping should have a riving knife/splitter in place, or else the piece you are ripping may soon be coming back at you. Power tools, like table saws, etc. also need to be "tuned". Square fences mean square cuts, etc. If you are getting burnt edges on your cuts, something is out of whack and you need to find out what it is. A while back I bought a nice used panel saw and it took me the better part of 2 hours to go through the manual to double check all the settings on it to make sure it was working as it was intended, and yes, some of them were off a bit. A new blade and a tuned machine made a world of difference in how well it worked.
  2. On respirators, I think the one I use is something along the lines of this one: http://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JC0MZ8YVPCN7RZBM4ZZ It fits tight, you breath through it (vs. around it as you do with paper masks, which are essentially 100% worthless). One of my big problems if I'm wearing a mask of this (or any) type and safety glasses, is the glasses fog up. For power sanding fiberglass, with potential for microscopic glass shards to go airborne and get into your eyes, a mask of this type with built in face shield might not be a bad idea, but those get pricy in a hurry. For those doing something that requires melting lead, I'd suggest you not even consider doing that without a full on face shield of some type. I can't imagine what it would be like to have a lead come flying out of the pot to hit me in the face or in the eye.
  3. Wayne: That looks like a clever solution. Moving the lifting tackle as far as possible from the pivot point will help with the leverage. Have been wondering how you rigged the downhaul. My plan is to stick with the stock design features as drawn to see what happens. I do know if I keep having to horse that 80# CB around much more I'll either have a broken back or be ripped like Arnold. I know it will all change when it hits the water, but when the boat is on the trailer, there will be serious strain on the tackle. A support of some type for that lead tip will be an absolute must.
  4. CB case has a removable cap that runs nearly the entirely length, so yes, you will have access to the entire interior of the case, except it is only going to be about 2 inches wide, so not much room to operate. But enough to get to the turning blocks, on the CB or the case, plus the lines, so it will be possible to replace the lines, etc, even on the water. The CB pin also comes out, so you can remove the board, but since the pin runs below the waterline, you can't do it while the boat is in the water. You might be able to do it at low tide with the boat careened over on a beach.......but you better work fast or else get the caps back on before the water comes back. I initially thought I would use screws set in epoxy plugs for the eye straps, but quickly realized there would not be enough room inside to use a screw driver, so had to come up with plan B. That is to run threaded screws in from the outside, and put nuts on top of the eye straps. There is room for that. After more detailed study of the plans, I'm confident that is what Graham was thinking.
  5. Back at it. Having been working on small things when I have the time, and lately, that has been the CB and CB trunk, in anticipation of needing them in the not too distant future. Anyway, for those with plans or plans to buy plans and are following along, plans do not give you a certain width for the kingposts that set the width of the CB trunk, other than to allow about 3/16" more width than the finished CB. Now that my CB is finished, I estimated that width to be 2 1/16th inches. So both king posts and all internal spacers and fillers have been final planed to that width. That means I can start gluing this together. Back on post #75, I showed a mockup I did of the lifting tackle design, which has the eye straps oriented vertical to the CB and king posts. When I tried that, I quickly realized that would not work as the shackles on the blocks required the eyes to be horizontal. So for the CB end, I replaced a single eye strap with an eye bolt. Also planned to retain the two eye straps on the king post, but orient them horizontal. So I was about to glue in the king posts when I realized it would be far easier to drill, back fill and re-drill the final holes for the eye straps while the king post was still loose. Once it goes in, not much room to work with. So, did that and was about to glue them in when I thought it might be a good idea to put it all together one last time, before going past the point of no return. Good thing I did. When putting this together, I wanted the block to be on top, which would leave the best exit run aft and would also move the block as far from the pivot point as possible, gaining the most leverage possible. What quickly became evident is the lines for the tackle, if mounted like this, will rub together......meaning chafe in an area where you can't see it, meaning failure when you least expect it. I'm also in the camp that thinks Murphy was an Optimist, so not only would it fail when you least expect it, but also at the worst possible time. Swapped the block to lower position, and that helps, but not enough. Thinking this is not a good way to do it. You could orient it vertically on the king post, but there still isn't much room to operate or for the lines to pass. What I'm thinking now is to move the dead end eye strap off the king post and to the side of the CB trunk. That helps with the alignment and eliminates some of the clutter on the king post. My first thought was it puts the strain on that eye strap in shear, but that is probably stronger than a dead pull in tension anyway. Aside from that, when the line gets to the aft end of the CB trunk, it runs through a turning block that is simply screwed to the side of the CB trunk, so can't see how it is any different from that. Lastly is how to connect the lifting line at the dead eye end. I have it using a simple stopper know, but my guess is a stainless steel thimble spliced onto the end would be better and far less likely to chafe through. Lastly comes the issue of which side of the CB trunk do you attach the turning block aft? As I've studied the plans, I always assumed it to be outboard or to Port. What I found when I assembled the bulkheads was if you did it on that side, the turning block inside the cockpit would have to be almost flush with the cockpit sides.....making it tough to grab. Move it inboard and the turning block is a few inches in. Not only easier to grab, BUT, if the weight of the board proves to be a bit much, a person could always set a sheet winch inside the cockpit to help with the lifting. Doubt that will be needed, but could be added if it is.
  6. Forgot to mention, the motor well, as designed, puts the motor in the aft end of the cockpit, at your feet and the controls always within easy reach of the skipper. That is a good thing. Also, as designed, even using a short shaft motor, the prop is set deep and inboard (as is the weight of the motor.......a good thing) vs. hanging off the back of the transom, where even a long shaft motor might ventilate (note I didn't say cavitate for you "cavitation" police) in a chop. Not to mention hang up and hit things. In short, I like the motor where it is. If I had a wish, I'd move it forward a few inches so it would tilt on it's own pivot (simpler to operate and simpler to build), but it is what is and I'm sure it will be OK as drawn.
  7. Ricardo: I know there is a great temptation to modify the plans to suit one's needs and tastes, but if you go back to the original post in this thread (post #1), you will see my proposed interior layout and it is drawn to scale. You quickly begin to realize that even as "big" as this boat seems, you would be hard pressed to make your proposed changes (head, galley, etc) work in an aft cabin arrangement. I have seen some of those over the years and it would not appeal to me at all. Having seen things to scale as I'm putting it together, the main cabin salon is will be about as "cozy" as I'd want to go for a long distance cruising boat for 1 or 2, as I intend this to be. I can't imagine how splitting up the same area would be to any advantage. Beyond that, while this boat can handle some weight, moving it to the ends (either fore or aft) in a boat of this size (or any size) is never a good idea, plus to get any useable cabin space aft would require it to be sticking up in the air so far it would become windage, not to mention being in the way of the rudder, motor and boarding ladder to get in and out from the water. It would probably also be in the way of the rigging for the mizzen sail. In short, feel free to make your own choices, but I would not do it that way. Just saying.
  8. Ricardo: Welcome to the forum. Wayne checks in now and then, so he may have something for you in the future. In the meantime, I think the amount of time it will take you will depend a great deal on your skill level and the detail of finish you expect to accomplish. Experienced builders that participate on this forum are able to finish boats in half the time that beginners do. Maybe less than that. They understand the plans and design concepts better, have skill in solving certain build problems and are efficient in their work. So what may take some of us a year or two, they can accomplish in 6 months or so. It also depends on if you are able to work all day, everyday (and that includes living in a climate that allows you to work year round) vs. only part time as weather, work and other distractions allow. I am in the latter camp. I have not kept track of hours, but what you see in the this thread could have been easily accomplished in only a couple months by a skilled person working steady. Maybe less. With a boat of this size, it also matters if you have help (only needed now and then, but help will be needed), and the extent and size of your shop. But as for a time estimate, even working fairly steady, I would expect this boat to take even a skilled person at least 8 months to a year to complete. I'll consider myself fortunate if I have her completed 18 months from now, but again, I work on it when time and weather permit. Winter, work and other distractions have kept me shut down for nearly 5 months. Only now am I able to get moving again. The Princess 22, while not as large, follows a similar build process, so the time requirement will be similar. The cost of materials will be less, but the amount of time spent on building will probably be about the same. Hope that helps. Again, welcome to the forum.
  9. Ken: Your note about the unknown dangers of working with these chemicals is well taken. I was a farm kid back in the late 60's, early 70's and farmers of all stripes readily signed on to the concept of better living through chemistry. One in particular was a broadleaf herbicide known as Lorox. As my uncle once told me, we were lead to believe it wasn't dangerous at all.......safe enough to drink. That wasn't the case. It was quite common for me to get a horrible sunburn on days when I was tasked with spraying the stuff and never thought anything about it until I overheard another farmer mentioning that he was suffering from the blistered lips, nose, etc. from that chemical, which made a person photosensitive. Could be coincidence, but I've been under the knife for skin cancer about 4 or 5 times. Almost every farmer over the age of 70 has seen twice that. Not really the chemical companies fault, exactly, they created and offered a valuable product, and we just didn't know about the dangers of using it. So, like a lot of things, realize there may be dangers with this stuff and to the extent possible, use abundance of caution and don't take chances. Don't not do it, but don't go out and roll in the stuff either. My personal fear is the fiberglass. Not using it, but sanding it. I shudder to think that all those little microscopic shards of glass are flowing into my lungs when I'm sanding the stuff. Full filtered respirator at all times. Ear protection.......for the sound and to keep all that airborne crap out of my ear canals. Really should be doing something better than safety glasses for my eyes and that is WITH a vacuum hose attached to my sander at all times. It gets most of it, but not all. On the cell-0-fill, I'm going to be using it. On any fillets, I'm also using poly fibers, which I'm told function more or less like re-bar in concrete. Not much chance the fillets and epoxy are going to fail, but what to do about the multiple layers of glass (see Tom's comment about post 10). Case in point would be the glass schedule for the Princess CB trunk. Plans suggest as many as 3 or 4 layers of 1208 biaxial glass tape staggered on both sides of the CB trunk at it's join with the bottom panels. I'm not a designer, but as a builder, I sometimes ask, what purpose does this serve? I look at that and think to myself at that particular junction, the fulcrum point is the bottom panels themselves, so there is very little side stress that much tape is going to need to overcome. But then you realize that unless the CB trunk is supported somewhere else, the force created by the long lever that is the CB itself passes through that joint and up to the top of the CB trunk, putting those taped joints under tremendous strain of tension and compression during tacks, and even more so if there is a grounding. But going back to Tom's comment, what good is 4 layers of tape if the underlying wood is going to peel first anyway? Plenty, if if prevents the trunk from moving at all. But that may also presume it's not going to be supported by any other means, and in my situation, that won't be the case (no pun intended). That case will have several divider panels attached to it forming a number of structural I-beams connected to the bottom panel and topsides on the outboard side, so when it is done, it couldn't move if it wanted to. The more dividers and panels we add, with taped fillets, the stronger this gets. As for me, again I have to trust the designer, so this gets the full tape schedule as per plans, plus whatever I add to the sides. I'm fairly certain it will be strong enough the CB itself will snap before this gives out........which if something has to fail, that is how I'd want it to happen.
  10. Lennie: A bit surprised to see you selling your beautiful boat, but you are not the first to do so. I've lost track of the number of guys on this forum who have built really nice boats, only to turn right around and sell them. Some have never been heard from again and others are on their 4th, 5th or 6th boat. Some have been at it all their lives. For some, the fun and challenge of bringing these contraptions to life offers every bit as much enjoyment as building only one and using it for life. Messing about with boats takes on many forms. But, until you do sell her, I suggest you keep using her. I can't duplicate the entire piece, but this is part of the forward in David Seidman's "The Complete Sailor". "Years ago I read about an old man who enjoyed working his small sailboat up and down a narrow river. His skill in handling the boat impressed the writer, who one day asked him why he sailed. The old man said that he first became a sailor for the pleasure it seemed to promise, but soon found it to be work mixed with small doses of fear. He almost gave it up right at the start. But before long the problems were overcome or in some manner dealt with. From then on, he said, the true rewards of sailing.......patience, philosophy, self respect and the mastery of time, became evident. To him, these were the pleasures that becoming a sailor promised and eventually fulfilled. Now it's your turn and I envy the start of your adventure".
  11. I think this confirms an opinion I developed a while back, and that would be if a person wanted to build this boat, or one like it, the CNC cut kit option is the only way to go. To have all those parts fit together so nicely would be a dream. In addition to getting a near perfect fit, B&B sources the materials, so that problem goes away as well. Looking very, very good.
  12. Am cross posting this with a thread on the main forum. Have done a lot of head scratching on finding a good way to cut the synthetic fabrics like xynole and dynel. For normal glass work, and with the stuff that I now realize is dynel, these cut ok with either scissors or a hand held rotary cutter. My rotary cutter is a Dritz I got from JoAnn fabrics. It will not cut the stuff I now know to be xynole. About all I have found that would cut it is a pair of heavy duty serrated scissors. While they will cut the stuff, it's not pretty. With bunching, etc, I normally get a ragged, jagged, saw toothed edge, so if you are trying to cut it neat, good luck. What I have found works well is electric scissors. Places like Jamestown Distributors offer some good cordless options, but cost around $100 shipped. Decided to try a cheaper option and found lots of older Dritz corded electrics on ebay for about $15 shipped. They go through it like a razor through plastic sheeting. With those, you can follow a straight edge or a graceful curve and do a good job of making a smooth neat cut. (Margin threads will pull, but no way I can see to avoid that). Cordless would be handier, but for now, this is what I'm using. These were made back in the 1960's. Mine were made in Switzerland and appear to be well made, at least compared to what I would expect to come from China if made today. Quality could be an issue, as all of these are used to some degree, but the ones I found look almost new, with no visible wear at all. While this is the ticket for cutting it dry, this still doesn't help when cutting it wet (it will bunch up and slide around, but won't cut), but if you wait until it has kicked to the point the epoxy is gelling up and will barely move, you can cut it with a razor sharp utility knife, then lift off your waste piece. That will leave you a neat edge.
  13. Follow up........have done a lot of head scratching on finding a good way to cut these synthetic fabrics. For normal glass work, and with the stuff that I now realize is dynel, it cuts ok with a hand held rotary cutter. Mine is a Dritz I got from JoAnn fabrics. It will not cut the stuff I now know to be xynole. About all I have found that will is a pair of heavy duty serrated scissors. While they will cut the stuff, it's not pretty. With bunching, etc, I normally get a ragged, jagged, saw toothed edge, so if you are trying to cut it neat, good luck. What I have found works well is electric scissors. Places like Jamestown Distributors offer some good cordless options, but cost around $100 shipped. Decided to try a cheaper option and found lots of older Dritz corded electrics on ebay for about $15 shipped. They go through it like a razor through plastic sheeting. With those, you can follow a straight edge and do a good job of making a neat, smooth cut. Cordless would be handier, but for now, this is what I'm using. These were made back in the 1960's. Mine were made in Switzerland, and appear to be well made, at least compared to what I would expect to come from China if made today. Quality could be an issue, as all of these are used to some degree, but the ones I found look almost new, with no visible wear at all. While this is the ticket for cutting it dry, this still doesn't help when cutting it wet (it will bunch up and slide around, but won't cut), but if you wait until it has kicked to the point the epoxy is gelling up and will barely move, you can cut it with a razor sharp utility knife, then lift off your waste piece. That will leave you a neat edge.
  14. Looks to me like the "old dog" can still hunt............and build a boat and post pictures about it.
  15. According to Tom Lathrop, product on the right.......the one with the white thread evident, is the one he used in his tests and the one being used and described as xynole. The other on the left is most likely either the dynel or olefin. As such, it appears I somehow managed to swap my fabric samples or Defender did way back when, but at least folks are finally getting me straightened out on the subject.
  16. This keeps getting better. Called Defender and after hearing my questions, they suggested I call the folks at Southern Industries, who make both fabrics. The product they sell to Defender AND Raka which they both market as Xynole is SI's product number 6044. They only know it by that number and they only make it for this specific use, but both do get their same 6044 product. The reason they only sell it in large rolls is they don't make it for any other purpose. They have to sell that much to make it worth their while to tool up for a production run. They claim their 6044 is intended to be a generic knockoff of Dynel, but also say the 6044 is a polyester and their dynel is a modiacrylic. Maybe in that world, generic knockoff means it looks similar coming off the looms as I would think the physical properties would have to be the same to qualify for that status, but at any rate, that is what I was told. Anyway, they don't know anything about the use of these products with epoxy, or what happens to them when wet out. They did say they would expect the dynel product to puff up much more and take up more epoxy than the 6044 product would. So what they are describing to me as their 6044 product does in fact appear to be consistent with the stuff Raka is selling as xynole. The one on the right side, with the white thread evident. That would leave the one on the left to be dynel or something like it. Wet out, the one on the left does puff up more than the one on the right. I checked with Defender and it was 13 years ago I ordered this stuff and it was only these three products, so it is also possible I have managed to mix up the products on my end over time, or perhaps what Defender sold me the 1st time was not labeled correctly? Guys on the WB forum are telling me the white thread stuff from Raka is what they have been using as Xynole. Am still checking with some folks I know have used xynole, and have also requested a sample of dynel from Defender, to go along with the xynole they are sending me. We may get this sorted out eventually.
  17. Sorry for the cloak and dagger, but didn't want to lead anyone to a conclusion. Having worked with these, it would have been obvious to me as black and white which was which, but again, that is based on only the limited samples I have worked with. Those could have been wrong too. Have talked to enough people by now to get some things cleared up, but at the same time, other things more cloudy. In the original photo, sample on the left is what Defender sent me as Xynole. Sample on the right is what I just got from RAKA. Again, obvious to me they are not the same. I also had samples from Defender of Dynel and Olefin, and that has clouded things for me. If playing "bet your A$$", I would have bet mine that what Raka sent me and what Defender originally sent me as Olefin were the same thing. Defender described in on the package as "Olifin polyester". When I put swatches of Defender's xynole, dynel and olefin on the same board, they look and behave almost identical. That is what I remember from before for the xynole and dynel (about 10 years ago when I ordered and first played with the stuff). I don't remember the olefin looking like that. I have yet a 4th sample that looks exactly like the stuff RAKA just sent me, but it is in a loose bundle and is no longer marked so I'm not entirely sure what it is (I seem to recall Defender saying it was the same stuff they used on carpet for backing). I used it once on the tip of a rudder and it ground right through, so isn't all that tough. I now have another order in to Defender for a sample of what they currently sell as Xynole. They don't say too much about it, but do rave on about Dynel. Interesting that I got a response back from Reuel Parker who has written extensively about it. He simply said both samples probably were being correctly named "xynole", which he said were simply polyesters fabrics. He also said both Xynole AND Dynel were polyester fabrics (????) and most likely Xynole was simply a generic form of Dynel and most likely identical. Tom Lathrop didn't seem to think so. None of that information has helped clear anything up. Whatever this stuff is I got from RAKA, I won't be using it.......at least not as my hull sheathing. The RAKA stuff is almost impossible to cut, so the white fibers might even be something like Kevlar. If so, a layer of that might be good to put into a glass mix up front......on the inside. Depending on what Defender sends this time, I will either be using it or Dynel on the Princess bottom. Not sure what to do with the stuff from RAKA, other than send them my wetout samples and suggest they look into things.
  18. As weather and work allowed, I have also been working on my rudder assembly. Wanting to get it done so I will be able to get a welder going on the rudder hardware. I want the rudder head finished so I can find the right location for the pintles, so I can know where to mount the gudgeons on the transom. Want the holes drilled, and backfilled prior to glassing the boat. This is almost as bad as "first thing you need to do to bake an apple pie is plant an apple tree". Not quite that bad, but seems like it sometimes. For the rudder blank, I made an error in my estimate of how much epoxy it was going to take to wet the staves and glue things up. Ouch. That took some cleanup. I'm not entirely sure what the best way is to take the lines off the plans and then scale them up to full size, but the way I went about it was to measure the offsets in mm from grids, then draw the grids to scale and mark them off to scale. Resembles the plans so I went with it. Rudder is now cutout and ready to shape. Lacking a CNC cutter (where is one of those when you need it?), looks like I'm going to go the template route again to get both sides shaped as even as possible. BTW, I deviated a bit from the plans for the rudder. Plans call for it to be 1 1/2" thick, which would have meant a NACA foil of about 7.5%. I made it a bit thicker at 1 3/4", which is closer to 9%. I backed off from the 10% chord I normally do, as that would have meant a board that was 2" thick. As it is, the rudder and CB are the same thickness.
  19. Centerboard has been glassed, with some cleanup and fairing to go. But it is far enough along I can now go forward with the king planks on my CB trunk. Board started out at 1 3/4". Glass added 1/16". An additional 1/16" for glass on the CB trunk sides will mean king planks and filler pieces will need to be 2 1/16" to leave 3/16" play/gap for the board to rotate in (as per plans). I was going to use Xynole, and vacuum bag it, but decided to glass it instead, and for a not-so-obvious reason. The lifting eye.......the thing that all weight of the board hangs on is only connected to the two most aft staves, and at this point, one of them is getting awfully thin and actually runs out before it gets to the lead tip. So about all that is holding the lead tip on is the glue line of one stave. Decided it might be best to glass it instead and let the glass on both sides of the board take up and spread the load over the entire board. I feared Xynole might not do that as well. I did put a strip on the leading edge for abrasion (plus and over the rope). Still needs to be cleanup up some and the lifting eye installed. Lead tip has about 3 layers of 12oz biaxial tape connecting it to the board, in addition to the surface coat on the board. That plus the bolts make me think the tip is not coming off. A word of caution. This thing now weighs over 80 pounds and depending on how it is being setup, it will quickly get away from you when standing on edge. If it does, assume it to be a lethal weapon. It needs to be handled with great care and caution.
  20. Lenny: Congratulations!!! She looks great and you have now done something that 99% of all the other boaters haven't. You built your own boat. (and your journey to the Dark Side is now complete)
  21. If it helps, the product on the right is thinner, and has a white thread that remains visible, even after wetout. How much thinner? About half. Sample on the left goes mostly translucent after wetout and puffs up in size about double. It is left with surface nubs, even after one or two fill coats.
  22. My guess is you would be happier / better served by a larger boat. If you have used an inflatable, most likely you have motored everywhere in the past, and will likely do so in the future? Mostly motor, some rowing and probably no sailing? If so.......... http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/jessy.htm
  23. I sent the supplier the above photo and they assured me theirs was the real stuff. Assuming both do the same, then what? BTW, I don't subscribe any sinister motive to any of this.........more likely a misunderstanding on the part of the maker and sellers. Since the name "xynole" isn't anything they recognize or use, likely they are guessing which one it is. It doesn't help that the two products look very similar when dry. Its not until you wet them out that it becomes readily apparent they are so different. My solution is to go back to the guys who have used, tested and written about it and let them tell me which is the same one they were talking about and pick that one as the one to go with.
  24. For the hopelessly curious: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?6640-Xynole-polyester-cloth A lot of good info on the subject, but what caught my eye started around post #31. Dave: Nearly 10 years ago, I ordered several yards of these synthetic fabrics to test. These included xynole, dynel and olefin, among others. So my only knowledge or reference to what I assume must be xynole, is based on that. It is NOT, the same product that was recently sold and delivered to me as xynole. So one source or the other has it wrong. If I'm going to spend $8 a yard for something represented to be xynole (the same cloth described and referenced in the above WB thread), then I do want to make sure it is in fact the same thing. Aside from now having 20 yards of the stuff, I at least have some point of reference with this........enough to see there is a difference and for the red flags to go up. If the vendor is currently selling this stuff as xynole, and it is not, they need to know about it and stop selling it. If not for my prior experience, they could have sent it to me, it be wrong, I'd use it, and never know the difference. How many other builders are doing that on a daily basis? If they are right, then the first guy was wrong. Either way, somebody is wrong, I'm just trying to figure out which it is. As an analogy, say I had a project that I for sure wanted to be using white oak on, but didn't really have any experience using white oak and didn't know for sure what it looked like. So somebody could sell me red oak......oak is oak?.........or even white ash, or worse, any old wood.......wood is wood, right?............. and if I didn't know the difference myself, and if they assured me it was what they said, I could, out of ignorance, use the wrong thing by mistake. I don't want to make that mistake.
  25. I don't think one of them is the polyester fabric marketed as "xynole". I don't even think it is a polyester. I think it is something else. I am planning to sheath the P26 with Xynole......to take advantage of it's known abrasion resistance properties, but that all blows up if I put down something that isn't. Vendor (a well known one) assured me it is. I don't believe him......but I have no way of knowing which is which except to ask those I know have used the real stuff so would know the difference. BTW, if you do a google search on "xynole fabric", the results are very limited. Apart from the many references to it in boat building lore (Parker was a big advocate of it and referenced it by name), the name/term "xynole" appears to be made up by those who retail it. By some accounts, the term "xynole" isn't even known or used as such by the company that makes it. It is some type of open weave polyester fabric product that was developed for some other industry but it's properties were found to be desirable for use with epoxy and boats, so gets used for this on a very limited basis. Very limited, as there are only a handful of places where you can buy it because the manufacturer only sells it in 3000 yard rolls.
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