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hightechmarine

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Posts posted by hightechmarine

  1. My friend has an 8 meter sailboat with teak covering boards. We put the Awlwood on 2 years ago. The boat is raced so the covering board have some damage to the finish. We repaired the finish at the end of the season. The teak had not turned yet. We repaired it as you would regular varnish with sanding back and build up layer etc. It repaired wonderfully. I would not waste time on repairing a ding this Awlwood is very hard to remove.

  2. One other item to pay attention to is carbon fiber unless oriented correctly does not like to go around corners. You may want to dry fit first and be sure the cloth will lay flat. There isn't enough resin in the world that will hold the cloth down. It has a mind of its own

    My 2 cents

  3. One other thing. When the boat sells someday and the surveyor puts his meter on the hull the meter will read off the chart. The carbon fiber is conductive thus triggering the meter. Keep good records to show the construction method.

  4. I used the Awl Grip product called Awl Wood. This image has just three coats. One prime, I used the clear primer, and two finish. That sealed it until the rest of the painting was completed. Then 7 more coats. You can do 2 coats a day with light sanding in between. The say 8 years on a vertical surface. I hope so. It is hard as nails after it fully cures.

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  5. They are QL trim tabs made by Volvo.  They are fantastic. Less drag electric so no oil. They react quickly.  I have seen these on many boats . When they first came out there were some issues but they are much better now. You can get a module that will keep the boat in perfect pitch automatically. I am asking Santa for the module. 

  6. Yes indeed Graham will help you. I cut through the transom and attached the "beams" to the stringers and first bulkhead. The trick is allow enough buoyancy in the tank to support the weight of the motor moving back 30". The tank is tapered upward 2" per foot.

    Graham has all the calculations. I added the diagonal braces and just glued them to the transom. Be sure to allow for your trim tabs and deck drains. More work put it never blisters. It added a month of elapsed time but it was well worth it. I also incorporated the fender rail into to it for a very slick look.

    The Armstrong bracket will work just fine but I like the seamless look into the fender rail.

     

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    The sea in the back is the best part

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  7. I sliced the foam into strips. I made the strips as big as the curvature allowed. At the the flare the pieces were only 1" wide and at the chine 3" wide. 2,  4 x 8 sheets went on the bottom aft. I glued each piece to the next using Gorilla glue. I used to use thickened epoxy but only small batches could be made before it kicked off. The Gorilla glue was fantastic. The foam filled all the little voids between the layers and was easily sanded off. You can see in one picture small pieces of 1/4" plywood (sealed with packing tape) These held the strips inline. All of it nailed together with fiberglass nails. Lots of people on this site use the fiberglass staples.  

    Then it is just a matter of fiber glassing the exterior like a wood boat and fair everything smooth.  I used 3 layers of 17 oz cloth and one layer of 1.5 oz mat. The center line is solid glass 9/16" thick. The stem is added later as you can see in the photo. The grey material is Penske core or they call it Cosa board now.

    Extremely labor intensive. However the boat is fairly light and solid.

     

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  8. Kennneee

    That is the million dollar question. I think all up with 35 gallons of fuel it weighs about 2000 lbs. Somewhat less than an Okume plywood boat. It does not feel heavy going through the water.

    I have been following your build it is also very well done. Watching all the builds inspired my to sand just a little more, and add a few finishing touches. 

    • Like 1
  9. Unfortunately no running pictures. The weather was terrible and time was short. I can tell you that the ride was fantastic. 

    I am a marine surveyor and I ride in a lot of boats. I was most impressed going downhill. The boat just surfs and is easy to drive.

    I have the QL trim tabs made by Volvo. I would never use conventional tabs again. They are extremely responsive and have very little drag.

    I am going to ask Santa for the automatic module that levels the boat automatically.

    The rear seat was a major benefit of the outboard bracket. Makes the cockpit huge. I would suggest the bracket to anyone building a 24. 

    I added my bracket when I was more than half done. It also is composite so aluminum to blister. Graham was extremely helpful with the dimensions. I was worried since I changed the center of gravity moving the engine back 30".  Thankfully it all worked out.

    Thank you for your kind words

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    • Like 1
  10. Thanks for the kind words. The credit is really goes to Graham and his sharp eye for shapes. 

    Everything is foam No fasteners. Just glued together. Started with the stations and attached the foam with fiberglass nails. Glassed inside and out like a conventional plywood boat. All the fiberglass was vacuum in place

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  11. On February 20 2013 I started my Ocracoke 24. Five years later I finally have finished.  I want to first thank Graham for all his help and beautiful lines on this boat. 

    This boat is all composite. Core cell foam and fiberglass. To those who are thinking of building the 24 I strongly suggest the outboard bracket. The boat runs just fantastic through the water.

    It is powered by a 150 Suzuki. Only had it in the water for 2 weeks. Saw 46 mph with four people and 35 gallons of fuel. That was at 4800 rpm. Fast enough for me.

    Thanks to everyone on this site for there ideas and inspiration to keep going.

    Unfortunately work commitments kept me from the Mess About this year but hope to be there next year

     

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    • Like 1
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