Dnjost
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Posts posted by Dnjost
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Congrats on a great choice of boat! I was thinking back to my build and 2 things I will always remember.
1. get help with the unfolding when going from 2D to 3D. It happens REAL FAST!
2. Check that the transom is tied in tight. If not, a hump will be seen in the last few feet of the bottom panels. Constantly check that all panels are fair prior to glass and epoxy.
When time allows, I am going to do my next build. This fall, I am modifying my forward mast to accommodate a tabernacle as the bridge between me and the Atlantic has 10' clearance. photos will be posted of the conversion.
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went out yesterday with 5 of us on board. Winds were shifty with gusts moving SW to W 15-21kts. I found that just paying attention to sail shape had me looking up frequently to see how the tell tails were flying. That masthead float sure works well up there too. but, I'm only 66. No ospreys have taken up residence, yet.
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First sail of the season here on Cape Cod. Did not know it was there, makes a handy wind indicator, unobtrusive.
12 miles under the keel with a wide variety of winds.
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A quick reply from Alan has me set up with the retrofit spar attachment for the float. A quick drilling of the tube for the button, and attach the 2 side brackets. We’re ready to take on some more serious water.
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Just did the port locker last week. So far, so good. No water infiltration. Working on a better system to dog down these hatches. Ruminations of kayak style webbing and clasps.
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Hmmm? Failed to measure the top section of my masts. Off by 1/4". I need to find a buddy with a lathe to remove 1/8" all around both plugs. Quite sad. Note: masts just came out of storage, and the failure to measure is all mine.
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would love to hear how you "tune up" your hatches. I made made a similar discovery about the integrity of the cockpit hatches during a mundane bottom cleaning. Next project once it stops raining on Cape Cod.
On the bright side, my new mast head float should help to keep us vertical and out of Davey Jone's locker.
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If you are trailering your boat, don't worry about bottom paint. I have used System's Three waterbased linear polyurethane for my CS 17. painted in 2015. I have now reached the point where a repaint is in order 8 years later. Not bad! It will involve a light sanding, priming, then several thin coats of top coat. It is expensive paint, but easy to work with as multiple coats can be done in a day. It also can be burnished for a more yacht like finish.
Just this year, I kept her on a mooring all season. Bottom paint was basic ablative style. once a season with a light brushing every month kept her algae and barnacle free for the season. Cleaned up with a brush and hose at the end of the season nicely. Will do again.
Good luck!
ps - all my other boats got Kirby's. Great for plain wooden boats.
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Step 1 - actually complete off-season projects. Such as the mast head float.
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could be for a cockpit tent or mooring cover.
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Don,
Here on Cape Cod we have similar issues. I usually anchor bow and and stern to keep the boat centered in the tidal creek. If there is going to be a blow, bahamian works well. Also depends on the length of stay anticipated.
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I have used a box beam made from 1x3 strapping and 2x4 filler blocks for years, tarp then draped over it and tied to screw in stakes with folding D rings to the ground. sorry no photos (out of season). forward part of the beam goes on a milk crate set atop an inverted carpet square, aft has the same. in the middle I shaoed a 2x4 support post that sits in the mizzen mast socket and is screwed to the beam at a height high enough to shed snow and rain. The key for me has been the ground stakes that are screwed into the ground. the folding D ring allows for me to keep the stakes in all year round. a simple tarp over the cockpit keeps the rain and acorns out during the late summer months. photos coming. The beam comes apart in the middle for storage off season.
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I have a cheapo electric motor that claims it is saltwater capable. Darned thing works great on small boats. 12v battery gives me trolling speed on my little 10' flatbottomed rowboat for 5 hours. It is not strong enough to move my Core Sound 17 any further than from the dock to the mooring, but since the CS17 sails so well, nothing else needed. For open ocean, I use a Tohatsu 3.5. quiet enough if we yell at each other.
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check out Alan’s video of glassing his 20 mk III build. exactly as you said, one to pour, one to spread. Find a friend who enjoys getting messy. provide beer afterwards .
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went out into Nantucket Sound yesterday with the masts down (bridge) and the 3.5 upgrade Tohatsu. 6kts, at 3/4 throttle. went about a mile on a half cup of fuel. so, figure 4 miles of range with the internal tank.
only using ethanol free from now on. The inly issue is occasional cavitation due to the pitch and yaw of the unballasted boat in a 2’ chop with frequent encounters with wake thrown by 30’ inboard cruisers. no issues. I would do it again, it is easier than pulling the boat onto the trailer and travelling by land to the bridge free ramp.
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yes. that rivet tool pictured is similar to the one used for my cs17 track. you need the two handed leverage to break off those rivets.
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my problems with the 3.5 Tohatsu have been resolved.
There was a clogged and crimped fuel filter in the main line from the tank to the shut off. the filter is part of the fuel shut off assembly. replaced, runs awesome. How the retail seller, and local boatyard missed this defies logic. Moral of the story, know your boat systems, and be prepared to maintain them .
The fuel filter sits inside the fuel line and is not visible.
I also removed the EPA plugs and adjusted the low speed jet. Wow. This motor will get me to the Vineyard now. (rather sail, but one never knows when the current moves as quick as it does here.)
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thank you. definitely short shaft. but, it does not look too difficult to modify for long shaft now that I see the transom hole. Was out in Nantucket sound today and found the motor working well in the swell, but occasionally experiencing cavitation while motoring to an adjacent harbor to step my masts (I live upstream from a 10’ vertical clearance bridge.
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It appears as if the well is on centerline. to go longshaft to fit my engine, I would need to set it to the port side to allow for a transom cutout. Or, move the bracket forward 5-6", if it did not interfere with the compartment forward of the motor mount. I suppose another option would be to purchase the motor parts for the short shaft (water intake tube, etc., and convert the 20" to a 15". I did that in reverse on an old Johnson 4 years ago.
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1 hour ago, Mark Rendelman said:
I also did the motor well but I can’t show you a current pic the boat is tarped and ready to paint but you can check out Alan’s build videos he did one for his boat
did motor well too?
6 hours ago, Mark Rendelman said:Dnjost hello !
mark rendelman here I am building a cs. 20 mklll hull #24 I have made all the mods that you have mentioned
I don’t know if that makes me more qualified than Amos but I did make them
this is very intriguing. looked like Alan used the short shaft Tohatsu 3.5, is the well suitable for short, or long shaft?
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Still loving my CS17, and sail it several days a week. Now getting the itch, and scratch to build again. This time. CS 20 MK III.
I read somewhere about new updates: i.e. Motorwell, bow sprit, back stays? can someone point me in the right direction.
i live north of a 10’ bridge so tabernacles are a must, and keeping the prop in the water while ditching into the adjacent cove to rig and de-rig is essential. water ballast on Nantucket Sound solves a plethora of concerns.
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great idea using aSUP paddle. may try this on my 17.
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To do bottom maintenance on my CS 17, I launch it at the beach in about a foot of water. Then, tip her over with a little weight on the masts. I then can patch dings on the keel and Centerboard, and spend a nice afternoon sitting on the sand waiting for the epoxy to harden. A case of beer, radio with a ballgame on, a sandwich or two, some good company, and we've got a great day on the water. By evening, sail back to the launch with a smile and sunburn on my face.
I do have a boat lift from Brownell as well for off season work. It was pricey, but I use it a few times a year to maintain the "fleet".
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Thanks. That really looks cool. The Vineyard is 4 nautical miles south of us, straight shot. So a cabin is not essential. Self-Righting, well heck yes. We have had some wild rides in the CS17, came close to capsizing once on a hat rescue. Fortunately, those sails can be let ALL the way out.
Yes, ideally the boat should do the following:
= allow room enough for 4 strangers, 6 family to tell tall stories, get soaked, grab a beverage on a distant shore, then dash for home. A porta potti would be nice too.
= allow a 65 year old man who loves to sail the opportunity to get the boat from his harbor, under the bridge, then off on a ride for several hours before returning under said bridge. 10' clearance. perhaps a tilting mount, then raise to full. not a full on deck thing.
= be safe enough not to turn turtle unexpectedly, giving the skipper and trusty crew time to sort things out, swallow our pride, and get back underway.
OB 22 may be in order. but the fuel thing...
Anyone using the Torqeedo motor on CS 17 and and use a Ecoflow to charge it also Epropulsion motors im looking at.
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I use both a Tohatsu 3.5 longshaft, and sometimes the Honda 2.3.
When going out in Nantucket Sound, the Tohatsu is the tool of choice. Once I solved the stalling issue (clogged fuel filter, and good luck finding it), it runs great. Much quieter than the Honda.
The ePropulsion and the Torquedo are just too pricey for my wallet.
Does anyone convert their Tohatsu/Mercury to a remote tank? I could get to the Vineyard and back!