Nick C
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Posts posted by Nick C
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I made a cover for my Core Sound 20 out of Sunbrella to be used with the masts down. My main purpose was to keep the boat clean in an open covered area and I have trailed the boat once with it on. I won't do that again until I reinforce several places since Sunbrella doesn't stand up well to rubbing on deck and mast hardware.
I have had several covers for different boats made by The Sailor's Tailor and got many years of service out of each one. The covers worked mast up or down, were very well made, and fit well. I trailed boats for thousands of miles and never had a failure. I think they would make a cover for a CS17 if you sent dimensions.
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Another take on the shock cord rudder downhaul: I had a Flying Scot with their version of the self-tending downhaul (the red hull) and it worked great. So I decided to try to do that on my Core Sound 20 (the blue hull). Not as much stretch but it works fine. I think tightening the cord would help, and if I were to do it again I would place the hole through the blade a little farther back (toward the center of the blade). You can see I still have the manual version in place ... just in case.
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That was me, Don. The boat is a Thistle design by Harry Bryan (https://www.harrybryan.com/collections/plans/products/thistle-12). It was in WoodenBoat Small Boats magazine in 2014 and I decided to try to build it. I stretched it to 14' and had a real learning experience (never built a glued lapstrake boat before). Photos below are Harry in his 12' boat and me in mine (I did not make the sail rig). It works -- not fast but easy to make it go. I tell folks it moves at mosey speed. Too windy to mess with it at Messabout.
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Looks great! And fast! how much does it weigh?
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Looking good! Where were you sailing?
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8 hours ago, Jknight611 said:
Errrr, I just completed a 6 year refurbish on Southern Express, new electric system, paint, air conditioning , and some other items, . Don’t think I could attack it with my multisaw just now! If I did the “big cut” I would consider lengthening the centerboard.
But not now!!!
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Thanks Reacher. Good report.
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Just sounds like a normal shakedown cruise.
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@Paul356 - I have also tried the Dura-Gold and agree they hold up well, and I like the price.
@Don Silsbe - I use their PSA rolls on other woodworking projects and think they are OK (doesn't load too bad on raw wood surfaces). Since they have lots of abrasive grains and grits there probably is a good option among them.
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Klingspor abrasives are excellent, and they make everything. Literally: discs, belts, rolls, etc etc. etc. Their GreenTec discs are targeted for epoxy but I have been using other types too. Some material made in Europe but much in Hickory NC.
Check out their website or if in NC you can go to 4 Klingspor’s Woodworking Shops. I am a huge fan. Also, you can buy roll ends and other manufacturing scrap by the pound.
FWIW, I agree about Shopsmith abrasives. I still have some of the garnet discs - when was the last time you saw that? Hoarding it ‘cause I still have my Shopsmith.
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Thanks, Andy. The boat gets compliments and it may be influenced by the paint but Graham gets the credit for designing a great boat.
FWIW the paint is Pettit EZPoxy Ocean Blue. It is a one-part enamel and I added their Performance Enhancer. So far so good - it is holding up very well. Todd Stein used the same finish on his CS20 Mk3. When the boats are together there seems to be a slight difference in color but we don't know why. Maybe it's just us...
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I am also not an expert but I agree with Kennneee that things are moving too fast. I have had similar experience and also the one where it seems like magic. Remember, the largest area you have shown us is only visible to the fish and the rest easily passes the 10-foot rule. That’s what I keep telling myself about my boat(s).
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Outstanding!! She's a beauty.
Looking forward to photos of her underway.
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14 minutes ago, Don Silsbe said:
I don’t think the Japanese engineers of these products have any idea how we use them here in the States.
… or maybe that's the reason they raised the bar and build Tundras in Texas and Titans in Mississippi. Great little boats like Lula look good going down the road, not dwarfed by those big rigs.
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FWIW - Several years ago I discovered on my big boat that the lightning ground from the mast to the keel and another from the mast to the grounding plate would come apart in my hands. Turns out that the builder used welding cable back in the day — bad idea and definitely not approved nowadays. A friend recommended bestboatwire.com as a resource for marine grade cable. I got tinned copper very large battery cables that they cut to my specs and installed terminals. I feel more secure but still hope the boat isn’t hit by lightning (again). I was pleased with their service and that the wire is made in the USA.
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Outstanding! I am looking forward to seeing Kalos in person.
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Not noticeable when raising the mast. Finished weight of my float is 1 lb 12 oz
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15 hours ago, Randy Jones said:
Has anyone looked into adapting the inflation mechanism of a self inflating life vest into a mast head float? Looks like the vests offer 22 to 33 lb of buoyancy. I'm thinking marry the inflation portion with a deflated "bag" rolled up and restrained by velco, or a deflated bag secured along the front of the mast. Could strap the whole works to the top of the mast or even conceal the "bag" inside a mast extension and have it pop out like a "jack-in-the-box".
Certainly not as trustworthy as a solid mast head float but I suspect MacGyver could make it work.
I recall there was a discussion on this forum about that and other ideas for alternatives but I can't locate it just now. There are some commercial products that have potential, and I like your MacGyver idea. But as you note not as trustworthy and once deployed then what? My experience is that if you capsize once you can capsize again ...
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I got a large masthead float (30 lb) from B&B. Simple to assemble, very light, and I will feel more confident sailing alone with it up there. A few photos attached:
-- Assembled float. Alan told me he used Gorilla glue so that is what I did. Then rasping and sanding to smooth it.
-- I don't have any photos of the glassing process but there are a couple of the finished product. I did it in two steps (one half at a time) and learned that putting on the cloth and smoothing it on the fly while putting on epoxy didn't work that well for me. Cutting, fitting and smoothing before the epoxy was much better and resulted in less trimming, sanding and fairing.
I think it turned out well and my finishing flaws aren't apparent when it is at the masthead. I installed mine on the mizzen mast; my thinking is that there isn't much difference in mast height and the mizzen is close to amidships. I don't have any photos of it on the masthead yet unless someone got one at the Messabout. It can be seen at the end of the video of Todd's boat above - my boat is at the dock.
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Congrats on increasing the fleet PP. Since we can sail here (almost) every month, you could store the boat where it is and come sail when you get tired of blowing snow. Or pick it up on your way to somewhere warmer.
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A few more views.
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Mini Tri, CS17 and CS20 sailing by the dock.
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Great job Todd! Nice color too!
Comment from daughter in law: “The blue fleet”
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What Don said! (lots of free advice on this forum). If your Tanzer is a 16, with some pre-rigging you can get rigging time down to less than 30 minutes, and if the sailing club has parking the boat can be left rigged on the trailer and you can put on the sails and be in the water quickly. I did that with my Tanzer 16 and was sailing more quickly than for any boat I have owned since.
Core Sound 17 #159 Refurbishment
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
I encountered the same outrageous pricing for gaskets when hatches (a different manufacturer) on my larger boat were leaking. So I sought alternatives and came up with EPDM closed-cell solid cord as the best fix. I tried different weather strip shapes, some with self-adhesive tape on the back, some hollow, but solid cord worked best for me. Mine required glue since they are metal and don't have a deep channel (3M weatherstrip adhesive is great stuff, just don't get any where you don't want it) . Maybe on yours you can press it in.
I found Trim-Lok cord on Amazon.com in several different diameters. Much less than a buck per foot. Still working great after >5 years.
P.S. The previous owner had "fixed" leaks with silicone caulk. Don't do that! I had bad thoughts about him when cleaning it out.