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Everything posted by Ken_Potts

  1. Yes - Balance is the most important thing. That's the place to start when setting the trailer up. I suggested the extra longitudinal beam because at some point a decision has to be made about whether to buy a given trailer and it's an easier decision to make if you know a way to make it fit if it ends up being too short to be legal once it's set up with the correct balance. Bunks may support the weight just fine but I was passing along the designer's advice to carry the weight on the rollers rather than the bunks (I hope I didn't get it wrong). When I set my trailer up that way it was an easy matter to back up to the edge of the water and let the boat roll off the trailer. The only part of my trailer that ever went into the water was the tire treads. One thing I didn't add was that if I bought the trailer in the photo I would get it all nice and balanced and if there was too much tongue left on the trailer I'd hack it off so the whole rig wasn't too long. At any rate it looks like Greendane has two nods of approval for that type of trailer and we'll be happy to help him figure it out if he hits a "bump in the road" trying to set it up.
  2. It looks like I failed to attach the picture on the first try...
  3. That trailer looks to me like it would be workable provided that the post that the winch is mounted on can be moved to balance the boat over the wheels (I can't see if it is bolted or welded onto the trailer frame). On second glance, are the wheels far enough apart? You could accomplish both goals of adding rollers and of limiting overhang by adding a longitudinal beam to carry the rollers. I've shown the new beam mounted underneath the trailer frame to keep the boat low for ease of launching but if that setup doesn't allow enough road clearance you could obviously put the beam on top of the frame. The swivelling bunks shouldn't be a problem. The last I heard, the recommendation was to support a CS17 by the rollers with the bunks adjusted to keep the boat from falling over rather than to support the weight of the boat.
  4. Ballast tanks... Helium... Need I say more?
  5. It's a well known fact that turtles are attracted to yellow. I know it's true because I made it up myself.
  6. I guess we'll agree do disagree then
  7. According to the data sheet that will cause "improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion". The data sheet can be found here: http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Brightside__Polyurethane+eng-usa+A4+Y+20141215.pdf I tried that once with a totally different paint (alkyd, I think) and I ended up with something resembling a non-skid surface
  8. Don, those screws in the photo aren't in shear, they are mostly in tension (which is generally what you want with a bolted joint). If that blue-flecked line were wrapped all the way around the mast instead of doubling back over the sharp edge of the eye-strap the line would last longer and the screws would see less load.
  9. If you've got an LCD screen you can't read with polarized sunglasses, just tilt your head to the left or right and you'll be able to read it.
  10. The B&B forum that Don (Thrillsbe) has mentioned is one of the forums (fora?) on this site. This discussion that we're having now is on the "Main Forum". The B&B forum is for discussions relating to B & B Yacht designs and there has been a lot of talk there about motors and other subjects that relate well to small boats in general. The particular engine discussion that Don mentioned is about five pages long and it can be found here: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9869-25-hp-suzuki/
  11. There is another side to the kitchen debate, though - It's not always the husband who behaves... Shall we say differently? On occasion I have walked into the kitchen and discovered that there was an autopsy in progress.
  12. Them's the pushin' sticks. The second photo is the pushin' stick for your right hand - I can tell by the direction of the curve. The first photo is probably a mistake cause that one will just slice through the water when ya push it. It's sposed to be curved the opposite direction to the curve in the other one cause your left hand is on the other side of the boat. Now that I look at it you'll probably have to cut the wide part off and re-glue it onto the other end cause it's on the wrong end for a left-handed pushin' stick, too. I guess ya better get back to carvin And on a serious note - That's a good looking oar!
  13. I think the third coast is the one that includes Brownsville, St Pete's and New Orleans.
  14. Welcome to the forum! There are a lot of helpful people here, so you've come to the right place. Since your weekender has a motor mount you should be able to put a small outboard with something like 2 hp on it. Lots of companies make motors in about that size and I have a Honda, which I like. It's a bit noisy but it runs well and it's simple (there are a number of companies that make good low power motors). Small outboards come in short-shaft and long-shaft versions and you can tell which one you need by measuring from the top of the motor mount to the bottom of the transom. If that measurement is about 15 inches you will want a short shaft motor and if it is about 20 inches you'll want a long shaft motor. If you get a wildly different measurement let us know and we'll figure it out. With a boat the size of a Weekender I would resist the urge to put a significantly bigger motor on the transom. A 5hp motor may have more power but it is much heavier and hanging a heavy motor on that transom will not be a good thing because it will upset the boat's balance. We're well overdue for a disclaimer so I should mention that I know the Weekender only through this forum. I haven't owned or even sailed one so if anyone says "My 9.9 hp motor works great on my weekender" you should listen to their advice instead of mine. I look forward to reading the input from people who actually know what they're talking about.
  15. The obvious answer is "Because it's my boat and I want to have fun with it - I didn't make the plywood either! (or the epoxy, etc.)" If someone really wants to be a purist they're going to have to scrape out a dugout canoe with a sharp rock and chew up some tobacco to stave off rot (or something like that). That's a perfectly valid way to go but it's not a requirement for a good boat.
  16. If I show my wife that picture she'll probably get all misty because we were camping on Cape Lookout when we decided that one of us would switch hemispheres so we could make it permanent. At that time we didn't know who was going to move, though.
  17. I don't think Chris posts to this forum anymore.
  18. Looks good! I think the old adage has to be updated now: You can never have enough clamps or enough bungee cord. Is there a way to lower that seat? The lower it is, the more stable the boat will be.
  19. Just make sure there's a ribbon on it that says "Remove before flight".
  20. I was thinking more along the lines of someone pulling up extra close behind you at an intersection and stopping short of the brightly-colored transom but not quite missing the rudder that they didn't quite see because it was pointed straight at them. One way to avoid the problem would be a bright yellow rudder.
  21. The longer mizzen sprit-boom will stick farther forward of the mizzen mast. There is a possibility it may interfere with the leach of the main but you can always just try it and see.
  22. Chessie looks great! An inattentive tailgater might not see that rudder though...
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