Ken_Potts

Beautiful work! Please keep posting pictures of your progress.

I have only sailed the original, I haven't sailed the Mark III (so please disregard everything I'm about to say ). I had a lot of fun with the original design - I usually day sailed and I occasionally took overnight trips as long as 6 days when I camped on the beach. I only slept on the boat a time or two. I thought the boat was pretty much perfect for my purposes. If I wanted to sleep on the boat more often than that I would go for a Mark III.

Scarfing is pretty intimidating until you try it...

I forgot to mention that others have reported that a CS17 sails alright under just the mizzen in its normal step. I haven't tried that but an alternative to the method I just mentioned would be to simply roll up the main and keep sailing under the mizzen. It may help balance the boat if you partially retract the centerboard. If that works it would be way better than trying to re-step the mizzen on the water.

Hi Davo. I have changed over to the 3rd step on the water in more wind than I could manage under the full rig (I also had luff sleeves). It's scary but do-able and I believe it is not recommended by the designer. Actually, I don't recommend it either if you plan ahead and can get ashore to change over on steady ground, but it is possible. If you wanted to try changing to the third step on the water I would suggest you let the sheets fly, center the tiller and run downwind. Loosen the mizzen snotter and remove the mizzen sprit-boom. Roll up the mizzen. Do the same for the main. Then move the mizzen mast forward to the third step and re-rig it. Obviously you need to have a lot of sea room to do this. Try this in 15 knot winds before you try it for real.

I have rolled a CS17 180 degrees (not a test) without sealed seat hatches and the forepeak and lazarette flotation was more than adequate. Having said that, it would have been better if the seat hatches had been sealed. I wouldn't bother with bags but I won't tell you not to

I just re-read your question and I think I missed the point in my earlier post. If you look at this photo that I stole from the B and B website you can see how the joint between the side and the bottom of the boat sort of fades out at the bow. That's the result of the tape joint.

Hi Dubs - Welcome to the forum. I have not built a Spindrift but I think the unfolding process is the same as the CS17. The port side panel is glassed to the port bottom panel at the bow to make an area that is flat. The same is done to the starboard side and bottom panels to make a mirror image of the port side. Once that epoxy is cured the port side is stitched (but not glued yet) to the starboard side at the bow. Don't use any epoxy on the joint at the centerline of the boat until the panels are folded out.

Hi Frank, I've just run a few searches and I am not having a problem. I've searched within a particular topic, within a particular forum and in all forums.

Paul - The board arm keeps the board from over-rotating. Does your setup have anything besides the uphaul to do that? I have seen a CS20 go aground in mud or sand (can't remember which) and when the boat lost way it was pushed back over the centerboard because it didn't have the control arm to stop it. It took a lot of effort between two boats to get that centerboard back to where it was supposed to be. The other things I liked about having that control arm was the visual confirmation of the position of the board and the ability to hold the board in position partially deployed (I sailed a lot of shallow water back then).

Wow. I count 13 points and there may be a few hidden behind the lights. I can't imagine what's hanging over the fireplace if that's collecting dust in the shop. Oh yeah, the boat is looking very nice, too

Looking good. You seem to be moving right along.

Be aware that there might be fiberglass between the keel and the hull - If so, try not to damage it when you cut the keel. If the plywood of the hull is undamaged under the glass you won't have to grind it off.

It's been long enough that my old brain is starting to forget, but I don't think Southbound had an uphaul, just a downhaul. I'm pretty sure the rudder would just float right up when the downhaul was released (as long as there was no sideways force acting on it). I would personally prefer a downhaul to a weighted rudder because I would hate to have the rudder accidently kick up when blasting downwind.

Alex, if you were in Perh you could join up with the Old Gaffers when they go out - They look like they have plenty of fun. Otherwise you could always host your own messabout. If I remember correctly, the main reason there's an Appalachian Messabout is that Chick moved up there and went stir-crazy.

Robert, you're my hero if you can drive there in two days

Oops - Here's the picture I tried to attach to my previous post...

Don, your rig looks well thought out and executed and the boat is very lovely overall, (much better than my work, just ask Alan). The only thing I can see that you might want to think about is the attachment point for the forward block that turns the mizzen sheet on the mizzen sprit-boom. The attachment point near the center of the boom will put a bending load on the boom which could be avoided by attaching the block at the forward end of the sprit-boom. One of the fun things about playing with a newly built and rigged boat is tweaking the rig. You may decide that the bridle on the mizzen sheet should be a little longer or shorter to end up pointing higher or being quicker to rig, etc. or you may come up with the best way to tack a mizzen staysail single-handed and eventually you'll end up with a boat that sails as well as (but slightly differently than) other boats of this design. There are a few things, though, that might cause grief in gear failure and I think the location of that block might eventually over-stress your nicely-built mizzen sprit-boom.

Congratulations Don! You really make me miss my yellow boat.

I hate to have to correct you both, but Lucy is the kitten I found hiding in my kayak during a hurricane. As far as I'm concerned, if the centerboard goes up and down fine, the trunk is straight.

Looks like a nice place to store a boat

My Anderson bailer worked above 3.5 or 4 knots. Mistermoon, is yours installed behind the centerboard? If so, there might be turbulence interfering with the bailer. Southbound's board is on one side and the bailer is on the other.

Welcome to the forum, Vest. Unfortunately I think you managed to stump all of us. I Wish I could offer advice on the tools but I'm not familiar with the particular brands. I just wanted to let you know we're not ignoring you. Hopefully some forum members who know more than I do about the subject will chime in... Bueller... Bueller...

Robert - I think the surface temperature offshore is in the high 60s. Maybe warmer than what you're used to but still cold enough for hypothermia. I've heard that this time of year the weather there can be hot or cold so people need to be prepared for cold.

Do I see a wind-vane over Carlita's rudder or is that an optical delusion?