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Frank Hagan

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Posts posted by Frank Hagan

  1. I am hoping there is enough clearance now for a gallows

    What's a gallows?? I can wait for a picture if will serve the answer better.

    A boom gallows is high like a radar arch, but positioned at the stern to hold the boom and mast when it is folded down. It differs from a boom crutch only in the size and shape of it.

  2. The blade in question is creatively called a Freud 10 " Combination premium quality Carbide Blade. It is a 50 tooth blade' date='with anti kickback design, thin kerf cut, laser cut plate, expansion slots, c4 carbide...

    Works great. I have 2 of them so I have one when I get the other one sharpened.

    IIRC they cost less than $40.00.[/quote']

    I gave my Freud blade away to my brother with my old Craftsman table saw. I bought a Forrest Woodworker II Thin Kerf blade, which was just over $100. The Forrest cut slightly better, but just slightly. Now that my Forrest has died a spectacular and exciting death (teeth flying all over the place!) I wish I had my old Freud blade back. The Jr.'s Tools store in town closed up, so I can only get them mail order now, and I just haven't gotten to it yet.

    The Forrest is great, but not worth twice the price of the Freud. Even if the Freud is french!

  3. Frank' date=' the CTRL wheel trick works on another bard but has no effect on this one (for me).[/quote']

    No, doesn't work here yet. I'm working with the author of this theme to adapt his "mostly text" theme to meet the accessibility requirements ... it looks similar, but not quite as fancy, and the CTRL-Wheel thing should work with it. Its also a quick loading, limited icon theme for slower connection speeds. If I can get it integrated, I'll make it an option here.

  4. A fixed application does make a lot of sense. I thought that somebody had chewed up their rudder when turning' date=' with a fixed motor. I can't remember who it was, that was my reason behind this thouhgt. :)[/quote']

    If you mount the motor mount all the way to the port or starboard side, it won't interfere with the rudder. I keep mine so I can grab the outboard's tiller handle and move it around, but to be honest I almost never do. You really can't steer a Weekender with a small outboard ... if you lift your rudder, you will drift aimlessly, even with power applied and frantic actions to direct the boat using the outboard's thrust, until you crash into the dock with enough noise that the people warming up their 40hp two stroke at the next dock will look up. Plus your wife gives you that look.

    Not that I've ever done it, mind you .... :pale:

  5. I am building a core sound 20' date=' but if you will allow I occassionaly check this forum for useful information.

    I would like to get a very smooth hull surface, but dont have a great deal of experience on the subject. I would like some input on how best to build up to that. I am thinking of using six or seven coats of epoxy something like this:

    *sealing coat of epoxy

    *epoxy thickened with microspheres/cabosil mix applied with notched trowel


    *epoxy thickened with microspheres/cabosil mix applied with smooth trowel



    *epoxy with color tint

    *epoxy with color tint

    *sand with progressive papers

    What is your experience and recommendation?[/quote']

    The "putty" consistency mix you make and apply with a notched trowel is for hulls where you have to make a lot of corrections (usually planked hulls). With plywood, you may find that the hull starts off pretty fair, with few (if any) ridges or low spots. If the hull looks pretty good in that respect, I would just opt for multiple coats of unthickened epoxy ... roll it on like paint ... and plan on using 5 to 8 coats (or 10 - 12 on vertical areas, where you can't put it on very thick). A cabinet scraper between coats is great for little uneven areas. You need about 3 coats just to fill the weave in the cloth, and the extra will really make it smooth. I found that sanding with aluminum oxide sandpaper discs on a random orbital sander was the best way to sand the epoxy smooth. As a last step, I used unthickened epoxy and a plastic auto-body spreader to fill in little scratches and nicks in the surface.

  6. The font size is harder. I'm amazed that they don't have a "accessibility" pack that has a stylesheet with relative font sizes so using the browser's font sizing would work (or CTRL-mouse scroll wheel).

    I'll have to wait until I can sit down and change the entries in the stylesheet. I'll make it an option so people can choose it over the default. But it will probably be a week or so until I can get to that.

  7. Wow! Very nice, TT. You are right, the majority of the time you're making 90 cross cuts or rips. I guess with your set up you would have to build a jig to angle the stock and feed it through.

  8. I show RADAR 13 as an active user. Did you try with that username?

    If you did, I can change your password and email it to you (you'll be able to change it by going into Profile after logging in). Please email me first with your email address in the message (you can click on the Email button at the bottom of this message to send me an email).

  9. Two actually:

    I have responded to posts here as 'guest'' date=' not bothering to sign up. Is it my imagination, or have those responses been deleted?


    Not intentionally! I haven't deleted any posts other than duplicate posts which sometimes crop up (don't know why, but sometimes the software posts two copies of the same posts within a topic).

    We don't require registration except for advanced features, so the messages from "Guest" (or an unregistered name if you want to put it in) should still be there.

  10. I also live near the beach, and fought rust on my old table saw. Bought that expensive spray-on aircraft preservative and everything. Then someone told me about Johnson's Paste Floor Wax, and a little jingle to remember. You apply it once a day for a week then once a week for a month. And then once a month for life.

    Works well, and I must admit I don't get to it every month. But it works well just the same.

  11. Look for used Delta, Jet or Powermatic "contractor saws". I bought a new Jet contractor saw which I absolutely love, but new its just above your $400 price ($549 or something like that). If you can find them used, they will be about 20% less than that (they hold their value well.)

    I had a 70's era Craftsman, and they are junk. The trunnions on the bottom, that hold the cast iron table to the saw itself, are aluminum, and the bolts creep constantly. If I took the time to set up the saw with the blade parallel to the miter slot each time I used it, it worked fine. I built my entertainment center that way. I even upgraded it with a kit to align it easier ... some hardened steel studs and brackets that allowed you to use an allen screw to move the table slightly. It made it easier, but it was still a pain. Just not worth it.


    Delta, Jet and Powermatic make good saws. Grizzly has some slightly less expensive, and I've heard good things about them, but I haven't had personal experience with them. If you run into an old Rockwell, check it out and buy it if its in good shape (they are the forerunner to Delta, and very well made ... but they are about 40 years old now).

    Stay away from anything by Ryobi, Craftsman (now made by Ryobi, I think), Ridgid (made by Emerson, who used to make Craftsman) and any of the cheaper "table top" saws by anyone. They aren't worth it.

    The contractor grade saws are pretty good from the three I mentioned. I bought the cheapest contractor saw from Jet, as it has the pressed steel side tables. It works great for my purposes, but I could have spent another $200 or so to get cast iron side tables. I just don't think its worth it at that level (its not quite like putting a fur coat on a pig ... which doesn't make the pig any prettier or happier ... but close, in my opinion). It is well balanced, the blade was within .005 of being true, the table top flat, and you can balance a nickel on end and turn it on and the nickel will stay there while the saw runs. It can cut 8/4 hardwood stock without a problem, but you may get some bogging down ripping long boards, especially if you aren't using a rip blade. The sawing capabilities I have with the Jet JWTS-10 (I think that's the model number) are duplicated in the Delta and Powermatic of the same size. (All three have cheaper "home" or "hobby" saws with 1 hp motors which are not worth the trouble ... they run in the high $300 range, but are no better than the saw you gave away, IMHO.)

    BTW - my brother also has my old Craftsman.

  12. Well' date=' it seems to be posting as you said. I don't know if you tweaked anything since I tried this morning or not. I used the same method to post them as I did earlier and it seemed to work this time. It could be me, maybe I wasn't watching and tried to post something real large without noticing it. I could have sworn I checked to make sure I was in legal limits though, since I had 2-3 no-go's!!... oh well!!



    Nope, no tweaks this morning. I think I changed them sometime last week or the week before ... I had the settings higher, but did some testing for horizontal scrolling at a screen resolution of 800 x 600, and lowered them.

    I'll leave it alone, so let me know if it does it again.

    I thought there was also a limit on the size (KB) of the picture, and would put a link if the picture was over a certain KB size (that's to speed up the forum loading for those of us with dial up connections). But I didn't see that setting when I checked the above. Did the pics have a file size larger than these?

  13. Can you try it again? Maybe try one sized just below the 600 x 400 size, and then one just over it.

    It might be that the software isn't picking up the sizes correctly. I did notice that if I have the settings set one way, the post takes the settings and keeps them, so I can't change the settings and make the picture display. But for any posted currently, they should display if they are 600 x 400 or below.

  14. Hey joe' date='

    I was going to try and help you out, as I have put a few photos into my messages a while back (without the link). I tried a couple of times and now all I can come up with is the link style attachment too. I'm wondering if something has changed on Frank's end? (maybe only a certain amount of photos can be uploaded per disk space?) I know he is still tweaking things. Maybe someone can solve the mystery...


    I have a couple of settings to control the pictures. I have been playing around with them to try and make sure the pictures don't cause the forums to load slow or scroll horizontally. The messages retain the settings from when they were posted, so it could be that I had the settings too low at one point.

    Right now, the maximum size a picture can be is a screen filling 800 x 600 pixels, to allow folks to post big pictures if they want. The maximum size I allow to be viewed is 600 x 400 pixels to prevent the horizontal scrolling. So any picture that is larger than 600 x 400 will appear as a link.

    There is another setting, and that produces a thumbnail of each picture. But then every picture will be a thumbnail.

  15. i saw a bumper sticker the other day that said "what if the hokey-pokey really IS what its all about?" :o

    Scary thought! But sometimes I think its the simple things we tend to miss. And shaking it all about might just be what its all about.

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