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Frank Hagan

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Posts posted by Frank Hagan

  1. I just got it back up and running. Not sure what happened because both the Wordpress front end and the SMF forums went down at the same time; the only thing I can think of is a javascript error or something like that (both are using old themes with some old javascript).

    The Forums are back up with the byyb.org theme applied; the Wordpress front end will take a bit longer. I had to scrap the byyb theme and install a default one that I will modify for the right look and feel over the next few days.

  2. Thanks! It looks like the little boat did pretty well in the "coastal rough" conditions. They dipped the rail once and it bobbed back up when he released the sheet. It can be miserable in a boat in choppy seas; I never liked it in my Weekender, but the Potter 19 I have now is fine in it (ballast makes a big difference).

  3. I'm looking to create a public Boat Building circle on Google+. Any of you on Google+ who want to connect with me for this, let me know.

    And, if you need an invite to Google+, which I think is much, much better than Facebook, let me know (although I think it is open to all now).

  4. Is he still building a PS26?

    Yes, I think so. He just didn't get much traffic to his site, and I think the inevitable spam he was receiving made it less and less attractive to devote the time to maintaining a web site.

  5. She's a great looking boat! I hope you can find someone locally. You can get a general feel for the rigging by looking at some books, but the specifics for this boat might be tough to figure out that way.

    Take a look at our Gaff Rig Pages for reviews of the two books I think are best for learning about gaffers,The Gaff Rig Handbook and Hand Reef and Steer. I don't know if they are available in OZ, but perhaps some of our members from down under will have a copy.

  6. I have added a Member Map application to the site. The map allows you to put in your zip code, postal code, city/state, or country to add a "pin" for your location. Adding your location is entirely voluntary.

    It might be fun to see where the forum reaches; I know we have readers all over the world.

  7. Hmmm ... let me check and see if there's a setting somewhere I'm not aware of (it works for me, but I have Admin access to everything).

    (a bit later)

    I can't find a setting anywhere that would limit it; I'll enter a support ticket and see if there's something I'm missing.

  8. I used allot of luan from HD. Big mistake. I had to replace most of it this spring with a better grade. The epoxy seams to soak into the ply but it really only soaks in to the very outermost bit of the wood. So when you epoxy luan the onion skin on the outside get tough but the bond between the outer layers and the inner layers is not improved at all. I have literally removed all of the outer layers on my boat.

    About the keel. I built up the bottom of the keel with thickened epoxy. The boat is yet to get wet so I don't know how well this will work.

    A lot of the luan isn't really "waterproof". Its always recommended to test it by boiling a piece of it first. I used exterior grade "ACX" plywood; the "A" is the grade of the first side (pretty good surface), the "C" is the grade of the second side (unfilled knot holes, rough surface) and the "X" stands for the core, which in this case is of unknown species. I think our information in the Wood and Plywood FAQ still applies. Most of the "Exterior" plywood at home centers is really "Exposure 1", meaning that it is OK for exterior construction, and can be exposed for a little while before being finished with a protective covering. It shouldn't de-laminate if protected from weather by glass and epoxy. If you're planning to leave it unglassed, and just cover with epoxy, I think you're better off using marine grade ply (well, you are always better off using marine grade ply, but there's a cost/benefit equation to consider).

    I've heard of people using luan "underlayment", that is graded for use on a concrete subfloor under tile or hardwood, and having success. I would still boil a piece of it to see how it reacts.

  9. It would be an interesting test. I always thought the Weekender sailed much better than seemed possible based on its often maligned design (something you don't realize until you actually sail one). I had people tell me that without a centerboard, there is no way it would be able to make way at all. What isn't often remembered is that the original Weekender had a jack-knife centerboard. When Peter Stevenson removed it on his own boat, the very same boat sailed just as well with no difference in pointing ability and no increase in slippage.

    I remember an article about a boat by Bolger that featured a centerboard at the bow, an unusual design. The large "forefoot" with the board down was balanced by a deep aspect rudder. The Bolger article, with its emphasis on the "new math" of the forefoot and deep aspect rudder, related Bolger's assertion that you didn't need to follow traditional rules to get a well sailing boat. When you moved the centerboard forward, it didn't need to be as deep. And that, combined with a deep and narrow rudder, balanced the boat nicely. I wondered if that provided some of the answer to the Weekender's unusual sailing characteristics. The Weekender has a deep forefoot measuring 12 - 14" at the bow, and a deep aspect rudder.

  10. Sukie, we do limit posting of pictures to people with a few posts (because in the long distant past I had a very unfortunate picture posted by a new member). You may be able to post them now. You can also "include" images from other sites using the URL of a picture hosted elsewhere (there's a little picture icon on the bottom row of the editor, about in the middle, next to the "<>" icon). I used that to put in the URL of one of your pictures at Picasaweb:


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