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Chick Ludwig

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Everything posted by Chick Ludwig

  1. Got her re-sprayed! Much better. No runs but a little "dusty" looking. I can live with that. Here are some pictures of the re-spray job plus one of the glass and epoxy "bushings" built up on the mast sections. As of today, first coat of exterior varnish is done and mast sections are put together.
  2. i have a Southcoast 22 to sell for parts, or to sell parts from. Boat is in bad shape. Trailer is not tow-able. Spars, rigging, hardware, sails all good. What can you use? $400 for all, as is-where is---you haul.
  3. I'll be out of town for the weekend so won't be able to attend. My CS-20 Mk 2 isn't ready yet, but I have some small boats that could go if anyone wants to pick them up from my place and bring them back. I have a Moccasin I, and a Moccasin II canoe, and a Mini-paw dink. You may call me at 252-229-8084 to arrange it.
  4. I thin about 20%-30%. I think the problem is really my vision and the "old idjot" you mentioned. I spray the paint to thick trying to "hide" and don't do in coats with "tack time" in between. For years I built fiberglass boats and sprayed gel coat which goes on at 15 mils---never have been able to break that habit! Like you say---old Idjot. I've actually got a good spray gun---but i still spray like it's a gel-coater. Yellow would have been nice.
  5. As promised---pictures of the disaster, also known as "the mess-up". But, masking is about finished---again. Paint Monday---again. Ya'll pray!!!
  6. Well, all that sanding, masking, spray painting----looks awful, runs, thin spots, broken heart. Moped around for a day, then back to sanding, masking--- try again. This Devoe paint doesn't like me. That and I must have thinned it too much, and my glasses immediately fogged up with paint mist. Less thinner, no glasses (lousy vision, but at least I won't be looking through a paint film. Maybe I'll let y'all see a picture or two of the disaster before repainting. This time it's gonna be GOOD,,,I hope!
  7. Back to the c/b spraying water---Graham has this set-up on his "Skimmer" and has no problem. I'll let you know when I go out the first time. Sanding is DONE. Tomorrow to sprinkle non-skid, and the first coat of spar varnish on companionway, tabernacle, bow sprit, and coamings. Monday will be a coat of off white polyurethane on the deck, cockpit, and cabin. I'll post a couple of pictures then. Hatches, rudder, tiller, centerboard all ready for paint or varnish. Graham says that the sails are on order and ready to be cut. I'll start the masts and sprits tomorrow or Monday. Still not sure how I want my boom gallows/mast support (for trailering).
  8. I'll be using a standard bimini top from a marine supplier. I've used these on several boat. You can get one from West Marine or order one from any boat dealer. Get one made of Sunbrella fabric, the vinyl ones mildew WAY too much. Measure how wide you want it to fit on the side decks, and get the shortest (height) you can---about 36" to 39" if I remember right. There are only two heights available. You will have to cut down the length of the main tube to clear the sail. My CS-20 Mk-2 will have one.
  9. About the twin outboards. Talk to Graham, but the boat is sensitive to weight at the back. also, there is not room the way it is designed. Maybe a main engine and a small "kicker" on a bracket for emergencies? Why not come to the mess-a bout in October and take a ride. The cockpit room may surprise you. As for the cost. I spent about $4500 when I built mine back in 2008. This didn't include any rigging for the motor, hardware, cushions, or extras---just the basic boat. This may not be totally accurate as I had some materials already and just guessed at their value.
  10. The trunk is totally enclosed on the CS-20 Mk 2 version. The lifting pennant is the only thing that comes through the top. It exits the trunk around a turning block on the top/forward end of the trunk, and then leads aft, through the aft cabin bulkhead to a block on the bridge deck. My princess was rigged the same way and would occasionally "squirt" a little spray through the hole for the pennant. I'm going to try a "cap" over the block to stop this. I'll post a picture later on this. I just cast the lead tip for the centerboard yesterday and need to bond it to my board, then install and rig it. Getting really tired of sanding! It will be later this week or even next week before I'm ready to paint the cabin, cockpit and deck. All the small parts should be done by then too. All that will be left then are the spars, and final rigging of everything. Oh, and fitting the trailer to the boat. It's taking longer to finish than I had planned---living life outside of boat building keeps getting in the way!!! Graham's mess-a-bout is coming up way to soon. Gotta get this thing DONE!
  11. Here are some new pictures. The deck, cockpit, and cabin have been coated with epoxy. Lots of outgassing bubbles and "fuzz" to sand out. Then another coat of epoxy, then paint and varnish. Here is the centerboard with the tip cut off to use to make the plaster mold to pour the lead. Next to it is the mold. The other pictures are of the completed (except for paint or varnish) rudder parts and tiller.
  12. To bail. "The transom" drain plug to fill. The bailer is right next ti the keel batten in the lowest area of the hull. The plug is right next to it. Graham says that the bailer will pull water out even when the boat is only moving slowly.
  13. For the water ballast, there is a self-bailer to open to remove the water, and a thru-hull to take the water in. I'm using a standard boat transom drain plug for this. Access is through the round plastic port that you see in the picture of the forward end of the cockpit. The cockpit sole (floor) is above the water line, so you can't flood the boat. The water ballast is only needed when the conditions are rough---windy. It should make the boat self-righting from a full knock-down. We'll do inclining tests when the boat is finished, just to be sure.
  14. ]Here are some pictures of the c/b trunk. As you can see, it isn't very intrusive in the cabin. The cockpit views show it with and without a "cap---filler" next to the seat. This allows the use of the standard hatch in the seat. The last picture is of a shelf next to the companionway.
  15. Oops, forgot one question about why cabin front isn't rounded. The flat cabin front is easier to build. This cabin is designed to be built in place on the boat where the EC-22 is pre-built upside down with laminated curves, then added on. I'll get some pictures of the c/b trunk offset and post them later.
  16. I've had several boats with an offset trunk, one with the trunk much more offset than this one, and never noticed the difference. I plan on having a removable "cap" over the space between the c/b trunk and the seat. The trunk will be sealed inside the cabin except for where the c/b pennant comes through. My Princess sharpie was like this and sometimes sprayed a little water through the hole where the penant comes out. I have some ideas on how to stop that that I'll try. On Princess, I just layed a towel over it. I don't plan on hiking. With the water ballast, she should be stiffer, so there is not as much need. I'm strictly a lazy cruiser and like comfortable seat backs. Like Atkins used to say, "Different ships, different long splices". As for double bilge boards---why get this complicated? The trunk isn't particularly obtrusive anyway.
  17. I am the builder and had a batch of pictures but somehow my camera deleted them all! (Well, maybe I accidentally did it...) Graham has a lot of pictures.
  18. There is plenty of sleeping room in the cabin, and sitting head room. The w/c goes under the v-berth forward. There is a footwell just the right size. With the c.b. trunk offset, it isn't in the way. Water ballast tank to drink??? Not sailing in salt water! Even with the cabin, there is still lots of room in the cockpit for a crowd.
  19. I'll have the new CS-20 Mk 2 (with cuddy cabin and raised sheer) at the messabout. All are welcome to go for a sail.
  20. I' the owner/builder along with Graham of the CS20 Mk 2. The boat is ready for epoxy cote and paint. Next job is to build the spars. I've deviated from the plan a bit in that I've added a regular sliding companionway hatch, and a bow sprit for the anchor. Everything is coming together nicely---I'm very pleased. We'll definitely be at the messabout, and giving rides. I'll post some recent pictures if I can figure out how.
  21. U.S.18 sailboat for sale. Built by Bayliner in1982. Fair to good condition. Sails usable, but need minor stitching, cleaning, minor patching. Boat was used by summer camp. Good galvanized trailer. Boat registration and trailer tags not clear (previous owner died before transfering papers) Boat and trailer cheap enough to make effort to clear up. $800.00 E-mail: cludwig485@gmail.com
  22. Southcoast 22 salvage boat for sale. Could repair--rotted interior, "soft" cabin top. Hull deformed over trailer rollers. Good spars, rigging, sails, hardware,etc. Trailer not towable.(could winch onto flatbed trailer). $500.00 as is. Located in Havelock, N.C. E-mail: cludwig485@gmail.com
  23. Outer Banks 20 See www.bandbyachtdesigns.com Look under Power boats-Outer Banks 20. The pictures are of the boat that is for sale. She is available with or without the 2008 25 h.p. Tohatsu 4-stroke motor or trailer. The boat was professionally built in 2008 by Princess Marine. Price is $12,000.00 for the boat. The power tilt and trim motor with controls, prop, and tachometer is $3400.00. The galvanized, but older trailer is $400.oo. Phone 252-229-8084 for more information.
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