Scott Dufour

Excellent description, PAR. Thank you. That's definetely a mod that needs to be incorporated before build- moving the king post scares me away. So I guess I'll have to live with the uphaul line constantly getting fouled and pinched between the centerboard and the case. (I've already had to replace it once...) wkisting: Do you miss having the downward stretchy/weighty pressure on the centerboard so at the water shoals, the board comes up as needed, but drops down as depth increases? Of course, we've kinda hijacked this thread away from the floorboard issues, but it's all related. But since it's your thread anyway...

I've been toying with this myself. I installed mahogany floorboard this year, and I'm looking to modify them also to be raised to the seat height. I'm not crazy about the centerboard uphaul/downhaul configuration, so I'm looking to change that, too. PAR, do you have some details on the changes you made, and can my existing centerboard be modified toward something cleaner like you've got, or did it need to be designed in during the build stage? With two kids usually stored forward of the thwart (and all thier stuff), the uphaul and downhaul lines are constantly getting fouled. (I sail in a lot of shallow water, and the centerboard's often getting coaxed up and down by the bottom.) If that whole thing were cleaner, and the the trunk capped, then that makes a great unbroken surface when the floor panes are raised. I'm also thinking that instead of cleats for the panels, a few of simple removable aluminum supports running athwartships and Z-shaped on their ends (over the seat tops, then under the panels) would do the trick. They'd be very easy to stow wrapped with a bungee and shoved in a locker.

Greg! No,no,no,no,!! Look man. I've already built a CS17. I've got the plans for the PS26. You have to build and document the PS26 about a year ahead of me so you can spend all the extra time and materials learning, and I can benifit from your misfortunes. What good does it do me for you to build a Core Sound? Think of it as a philanthropic endeavor. Take one for the team.

What a great opportunity for your kids. Those kinds of experiences really help set a person up to handle and enjoy the adventures life has to offer.

Ray, Will you be coming down to Mystic, CT this weekend for the Wooden Boat Show?

I really like the idea of using the aluminum bar stock. Rocinante's not the type to covet fancy-pants; she's a low maintenance gal. Aluminum's something I can work with easily enough. I'll check it out. If I do go with aluminum, what should I use to bed it?

Wisdom comes from good judgement. Good judgement comes from experience. Experience? Well, that comes from bad judgement. I'm gonna take off from work go get me some experience tomorrow...

PAR: Yup. That's exactly what I didn't do. I covered the skeg with the UHMW plastic, but all protection ends there. No flat landing forward of that. So you recommend grinding a flat and putting the solid-back half oval on? That's probably the least painful option from the wood-fabrication point of view. That will require me to grind through the glass and into the wood... Should I re-glass the exposed area? Will I now have a structural weakness without re-glassing that joint? John: If I go with add-on-wood option, it's probably going to take a lot of thickened epoxy filler to fill up for gaps I will inevitably have... that means that I won't be able to just bed it in something removable. If I put the hollow back over that, it this the kind of thing that's rugged enough to last many years? How often do these sacrificial stainless steel protected wood backed bows get sacrificed?

I don't have an exterior wood stem forward of the keel. Just the side/bottom panels with about 4 layers of glass. (Is this one of those things I was supposed to know to do, though it wasn't in the plans? Probably something a real boat builder doesn't need to be told...) So if I've got this right, you two suggest an exterior piece of hardwood (probably white ash) faired into the existing keel and bent up to at least the bow eye. Then I wrap that with the hollow back, if needed? I guess that means planing a flat area around the entire stem to land the hardwood. (Or better, I guess, routing out a fitted opening bevel in the rubstrip.) This is sounding a lot like work. :-?

Every time I hear something like the stories Bob and Ray just shared, I'm encouraged. I thought Chevy Chase and I were the only ones who did stuff like that. Should that be encouraging or discouraging?

So I've got another question about the hollowback. Right up near the bow, where things are going vertical, the sides meet at a much more acute angle than lower down, where things flatten out a bit. Is the normal procedure to order the hollow back to fit the flat, and then crimp it in as it moves up the bow, or order it for the acute, and pry it open as it moves down and flatter? I'm confident when I work with wood, but I've been known to really screw up metal in a hurry. And at $40 a mistake, I can run through funds in a hurry... And finally, those of who who know the bow of the CS17, what size oval hollow back should I order? It seems to come in 1/2" to 1 1/2" sizes in 1/4" increments.

Thanks Tom. Will do.

Rocinante's (CS17 #110) starting to show a little wear from the unforgiving ramp I sail out of. Just forward of where the keel (which is protected with UHMW plastic), she's abraded into the fiberglass. I'm thinking of just putting some stainless steel half round from that point up to the bow eye. How easily does the half-round bend around that stem? I'm worried about it crimping or flaring out. How tightly does it need to fit? Should I use a bedding compound? In general, how's this work?

Sailrite- thanks Doug.

Doug, I really like the combo dodger/ convert-to-tent. Is this a standard aftermarket bimini frame? If so, which one? How adjustable and customizable are these biminis?

How far up the beam can you sail wing & wing before the fear of an unexpected jibe begins? And how for up the beam do you need to be for the staysail to be effective?

I don't want to get this thread hijacked- but did I just read that someone's going to build a PS26 and post pictures?!! Bill, I'd be forever in your debt. Please keep us posted.

Oh, the doorway's definetly coming out- it's the concrete foundation and lally column that are the problem- but Chris is right; the house should fall slow enough for me to get the boat out. :cool: Good point about the tabernacle, Norm. From the drawing, it's not the verticle clearance that's the issue, though, it's the horizontal. Oh, and I'm definetly NOT pouring the lead in the basement, just installing it there. :shock: That's all IF I decide to build the 22. I may end up going bigger... All just studies right now.

[quote author=Hirilond

So I got a CS17 out through a standard 34" wide entry door, by standing it on beam ends. Now I'm trying to figure out if I can get a PS22 out. Of course I can't leave the door in, but I've got 7'2" between my concrete foundation and the lolly column, with 6'6" of head room under the heating duct work. So the challenge is can I squeeze the PS22 through the space after I remove the wall in between. The sketch shows the PS22 Bulkhead #2 just making it if I tilt the hull so the side is exactly parallel to the wall horizontal. (I tilted the wall in the drawing, but it's probably easier to tilt the boat in reality. :-? So it might make it. Maybe. Just Maybe...

It's true what Sukie says about epoxy- I made soooo many mistakes building this thing, and all of them were fixed with a combination of epoxy, fiberglass, and a random orbital sander with 80 grit paper. I often think that Kenneth Grahame could easily have said that "There is nothing --- absolute NOTHING --- that can't be fixed by messing-about with epoxy."

Hurray! Congratulations, Wes.

I don't think the 15' run up space should be trouble; there was a fair amount of space to play with right up to when the coaming starts- and I build a pretty high coaming. You should be able to angle it in for at least a couple of feet. And removing a jam and a two by four or two is always easy enough after you've built a whole boat!

I got my CS17 out through a standard 34" wide door- with a full 1/8" to spare.

I have the Fein Multimaster, with the dust collector accessory, and I used the heck out of it building my CS17. Mostly as a detail sander in those tough to reach spaces, but also for a few occasions where I just couldn't get a decent cutting approach with any other tool. If I had been an experienced boat builder most of that sanding wouldn't have been needed (because I'd have the skills to work clean, or the foresight to pre-cut the tough spots.) However, I do recall several occasions where after putting it down, I said, "If only for that little impossible job, this thing just paid for itself".