Scott Dufour

Sounds good, Gary. I'll drop him a line there.

The website mentions that there are two ballast options, but the plans only state one. I don't know what the values of the options are. I thought somebody here might. From the website: The boat has been designed for variable draft/ballast. Whether you need ultra shallow draft for creeping into hidden creeks and the minimum trailering weight, or a bit more stability for open water, the boat can be built to suit your specific needs. The boat is not intended to cruise around the world and pass the Great Capes, but if you choose the deeper draft and greater ballast, it is a boat that will not mind being caught out in a blow - and you will not have to wait out the weather until that one perfect day! It will not disappoint in light air and takes the heavy stuff on the chin. So my question regarding the draft/ballast is: Is the 700# keel (I misstated the 1st post above- it's not 750) and 50# centerboard shown on my plans the "deeper draft and greater ballast" version? With type of sailing I plan on doing, I'd prefer the "creeping into hidden creeks and the minimum trailering weight" focus. Does that mean that I can take out some of ballast? How much?

No takers? :???: Ok, I'll changed the wording in the original question to make it more generic.

They're all wibbly-wobbly in that stage and can be bent in quite a bit towards the transom- and aren't that much wider than the finished boat. Maybe another foot or two, but in limited space they can be pulled in easily enough.

I've got my PS26 plans, and I'm pretty jazzed up. I'm looking at maybe a 10-15 year build- this is my retirement boat, and I'm not quite forty yet. As I read/imagine/puzzle/fantasize over them, a couple of questions keep coming up: The PS26 description on the B&B site mentions a couple of items I can't get my head fully around- maybe somebody out here can help me. 1) Variable ballast- the plans I have call for 750 lbs in the keel, 50 lbs in the centerboard. Is that the "heavier" or the "lighter" of the options alluded to? How low a draft can I get at the lighter end, how much at the heavy? 2) The site mentions possibility of a "Pop Top. With a cat ketch, and no mast in the cabin area, are we talking about a full cabin pop-top? I've got no experience with pop-tops at all- major leaking potential? 3) I'm a bit daunted by all that wide open cabin space, and though the idea of "customizing" might appeal to someone who knew what they wanted, I'm at a loss. I'd like some recommendations on water tank placement, ice box placement, fuel tank placement.. that kind of thing. I've got a few books others here have recommended, but while they tell me HOW to build this stuff, they don't really help in the WHERE.

That's about as close to an instant boat as it gets. :-D

Thanks for the info on the Karavan trailer, Ray. My current trailer is just about rusted through everywhere...

Hey Ray, That 1250-56 Karavan you mentioned- the specs say the distance between the fenders is 56", but a CS17 is 70" inches wide. Are the fenders low enough so the chine sits over them? What's your take on the Karavan aluminum I-beam 1500-52 for use in salt water? More expensive that it's worth for a CS17?

I'm already thinking of double-ending the main snotter to both sides of the boat so I can adjust it on either tack. I might just run the topping lift and a reef point downhaul down the port side along with it. Maybe also add the sprit 2nd cringle thingy, too. But it's true- all that can make for a complicated rig. There's tradeoffs everywhere.

Question about mizzen reefing: how do you keep pointed into the wind during this part?

There's a couple of snags with the sprit rig reefing that I've found problematic- 1) The need to pull the sprit end out of the clew- if it's blowing, once the sprit's out, it's very hard to get it back into the higher loop. 2) The need to go forward on a pitching and rolling deck to move the main downhaul to the reef tack. (That's when I got swept off the boat. Two kids on board (9 and 11), scared out of their wits...) This jiffy reefing (if it works) seems to address both those issues. If it works... Anybody tried it?

I've run across this article several times, and I'm wondering if anybody out there has set up their sprit rigs to try it. I've got sailtrack. http://members.fortunecity.com/duckworks/1999/0701/Index.htm The other day I got swept off the boat trying to reef in pretty ugly conditions. Should have reefed earlier, I know, but sometimes the unexpected happens. Anthing that can make reefing easier makes the boat safer.

I've been wondering the same thing about Jim Machalak's jiffy reefing- I'll post the question under a new topic so I don't hyjack this one...

Since I never see this on other boats, there's probably a good reason why I shouldn't do it- but I'll ask y'all anyway. How'z about I get the Honda BF2 Long Shaft (2HP, 27 lbs), and intend to use it infrequently, keep it stored up under the forward seat. Make sense so far. But what about, when I need to use it, just mounting it on the gunnel near the oarlock? It'll be easy to mount and start right there, as well as take back down. But like I said, I never see it on other boats. How come?

Hurray! Beautiful job!

I made a similar mistake, and I unfortunately didn't think the aluminum would have the holding power for threading. (I should have asked here like you just did.) I ended up drilling a 1/2" hole on the opposite side of the mast to fit a homemade tool through to hold the nut. It was only after drilling this hole that I thought, "Duh! Threaded Rivets!" Would those provide better holding power than just tapping the aluminum? Anybody have experience with these things? http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm

Alright Richard, I'll order that, too!

Thanks John- I'll order it in about... 3 minutes.

Over the next 15 years, I'm going to be building a PS26. I may even be able to squeeze that down into 13 yrs, but that's a stretch goal. :-? Can anyone of you really experienced builders recommend a book or three I should read regarding how to build interiors? I'm very ignorant of the whole design thing, including stuff like galley design, iceboxes, heads, etc. I know there are books on the market, but I'm looking for you guys to help me separate the wheat from the chaff.

Thanks guys- So it's 15" shaft, 2 hp. Bracket... something with a vertical rise of at least... what... 10 inches?

Ok, then. Thanks for all the help. Here's what I think my plan will be: 1) Pick up a used outboard -something like a Tohatsu 4,5,or 6 hp 4-stroke. 2) Pick up an outboard bracket, maybe a Garelick with the springs and vertical lift. Try 'em out. If I want the engine closer, I can always put a recess in at a later time. So questions about the engine and bracket, because I really know NOTHING about these things. a) Engine shaft: 15" (short) or 20" (long)? Bracket vertical lift range: they seem to come in ranges from 0 to, like 15 inches. What do I really need? Perhaps the answer to "b" is contingent on "a"? If so, what's the recommendation?

Good feedback, Wes. Thank you. If you linked the rudder to the motor, would you still be able to tilt up the motor? Richard, how do you feel the recess performed vs hanging the motor on a mount. Was it worth the effort?

See, Ray. Dave says I'm not a wussy! Am I right in assuming the recess brings the motor closer? Could I run the fuel line up along the underside of the deck and through an opening (gasketed) at the top of the recess? Any tricks to make the motor less prone to snagging the mizzen sheet?

Ah... ok. Thanks Ray, Richand and Wes. I was hoping to hide the motor below the deck, keeping that nice clean look and preventing mizzen line fouling, but Wes killed that idea with actual measurements and facts and stuff. And with that long aft deck and significant coaming, the long lean-over-to-fill-the-tank-and-start doesn't sound appealing. Richard's recess area is interesting: did you mount it over the edge of the transom (so cowling in inside forward of the transome when tilted up)? Ray- I sail out of Niantic harbour, and have to navigate a narrow and twisty channel under two bridges with currents in the 2-3 knot range. The oars just aren't working for me... lazy.

I built my CS17 with the aft deck. I like it. But now I think I want to add a small motor (sorry Ray). I think this question will need Graham's input. I'd like to convert some of that aft storage space to a motor well for a lil' tilt-up job. First: Is it structurally feasible? Second: Is it structurally advisable? Third: Dimensions, framing requirements, drag minimizing modifications...? Fourth: All the other stuff I should think about...