Kudzu

On the plans I included a diagram showing the beam layout and just realized I didn't put it on my shop copy. I toss it in the box with the kit. I will get that added to the shop copy so this doesn't come up again.

Coaming restson ONLY on the lam beam and the rear of the boat. It does not tough the side beams. It fits just like those shown in the manual. Side beams go under the lam beam and are notched to fit. There is your problem. Is that a kit I made? If so it explains some of the confusion.

I am TDY so not where I can get to my photos but at the front I cut them just long enough that they end below the skin. Stretch some t-shirt material over the frame and you see where the beam looses contact with the skin. I cut it just past that. Yes is goes on top of the lam beam and it is fitted the same way. But it is hard to use the t-shirt method on the coaming.

No, the client just like this better so he gets what he wants. It is actually more work but it does have a cool look.

FRAME 6' 0" Thanks for pointing that out so I could add it to the patterns.

No surprise. It takes a lot put a hole in one. I am guessing by what you said that you did not round the ends of the seat stringers? An exposed blunt end is more susceptible to damage than anywhere else. I need to add a note on the plans and clarify that. I thought there was something in the manual but I am learning most people do not read the manual very closely. So it is better to put it on the plans.

I am building a SHAD for a client. I have been wanting to video a build from start to finish but haven't had a Commision in s while and the last thing I need is another kayak! So I jumped on this and ordered a inexpensive video camera and I going to document the whole thing from start to the day I launch it. Maybe even when we turn it over to the client? I will update this thread as I add new Episodes. PART 2 PART 3 PART 4 BONUS VIDEO Part 5 Part 6 PART 7 PART 8 PART 9

Likey both are to blame. GP's are notoriously wet paddles! And deck seams are near impossible to make totally watertight for me. Boat looks really good in white too.

Looks like we overlooked the notes when i redesigned the frame. so yea, that is little long. I am about to start to assemble the SHAD in the shop this afternoon of tomorrow morning. I can verify on the boat what it needs to be but you need 1"-1.5" past the frames. Just enough to drill the holes to lash the seats in the place. Don't hold me to this but I think 24" is about right. If you can't wait just measure and add the extra.

I don't have any plans, I just made some patterns I used to trace the outline.

Not sewn any yet you could do either I am sure.

Problem is you need to raise the Gunwale to really gain any more foot room and then you end up banging a paddle on the side of the boat. Everything is a compromise in these and there are no easy ways to get more foot room, keep a good shape on the boat and keep the Gunwales low so you are not knuckle busting. And if you do try something you have to build a new boat just to test your idea!

Glad to hear other chime in with some experience Size 14 is hard to find anything other an Recreation design that you are going to fit well. VARDO has the most room inside being more of a touring boat. All the others are not going to fit 14's with shoes on. I wear thin neoprene water shoes with a medium thick sole. In the winter I wear wool socks inside my dry suit with those outside. No problems there. I wear size 10 and with tennis shoes on my feet are wedged in and not comfortable. I would say size 14 foot is close to that so I have my doubts about a good fit in anything except VARDO. Largely depends on how forward you can point you toes.

Grabbed a couple of photos while preparing the frames.

The frames rest on the bow and stern ends, on the long tab at the back, not on top of the stringer like the other boats. You mount the frames to the brackets while on top of the bow/stern end. Once you start lashing stringers it is gets very solid. I am about to build a shad and will have a photo in a couple of days if you need it. Just finishing up frames today for it.

Just received a roll of a new 9 oz polyester fabric. This is tight weave fabric with a fairly smooth finish. The weave it fairly smooth and nice and tight. Sewing this fabric should be easy to without the pull holes you would get with the original 8 oz we sold for so many years. I applied some paint and it soaked in rather than just sitting on the surface. $5 a foot but I have it on sale for a few days at $4.50 a foot.

Looks good from here!!

They made money, they just tied up to much cash for too long since I had to buy 100 yds of fabric at a time. Still looking for alternatives but not had any luck buying smaller quantities at reasonable prices. Buying fabric retail I would have to raise prices to $120 a set.

No but it is something that I have been thinking about doing of just raising the deck a little bit.

Just looked and there is a frame located at 7' 10".

I am letting other answer but I will answer a couple of things. Size 9 feet with some thin water shoes are no problem. That is what I wear. I have a pair of Teva water shoes with thick soles and big heals and they are a bit big so I won't wear them paddling. As for tracking it is hard to answer because what I call good tracking might be loose or a train to you. One good thing is that if the tracking isn't strong enough you can easily add a small skeg made from the scrap plywood. I don't have a 'how-to' up but it is pretty simple to make and you can trim it make the boat suit you. Skirt is not problem Seals has a pattern on file. I can special order one of your local dealer can too.

Effective today we are no longer making Float Bags. I still highly recommend them. As far as safety goes they are second only to a PFD. Short version is I have invest a lot of money in a roll of fabric and it takes me over 2 years to use that roll fabric. It is just a very poor return on investment. Buying fabric in small quantities is almost double the price. That would mean I would have raise prices to well over $100 a set. While I think it well worth it for the safety they provide obviously the majority of builders see no value in them at the current price. I could offer then as a Special Order item? I would have to order fabric as needed. It would take longer to turn the order around. That is about the only option to keep them available but questionable if it is worth the effort and time.

I am not worried about the deck beams. They are just cosmetic and the curve is fair. The curve in the chine isn't right though. No one has mentioned this before so not sure if that is mistake in the plans or not.

Without seeing it I can't say for sure, but wood isn't always straight. It bends, warps, etc. Most likely there is nothing wrong. Pull them down in place and sight down the kakay from different angles and see if everything makes smooth bends. There should be no humps of dips anywhere in the stringers.

No experience with borax, but I have been know to rinse a boat with a little diluted bleach. I have heard for the borax treatment before just never felt the need but it probably doesn't hurt anything either. Salt water is from what I read a good preventative too. I have reskinned a few an there is usually black stains at the bottom of the bow, maybe at the stern, but I have never found rot.