Kudzu

Turn the boat upside down.

Not sure what the image is but it is not a real boat. Probably an image of one of the developmental models of the Messabout Series. The Mess About 15 has the extra stringer but it is flush, not a chine.

All my designed are chinned. Very hard not to in a SOF boat. I don't remember any specifics on the Book offsets but there isn't a multi chinned Messabout.

Check out my web site, I have at least two videos on there show skinning. Building Shad part 6(?) is my latest and shows my methods best.

My intention was let that beams just extend enough to clear the skin past the laminated beam. What I do is clamp the lower coaming ring in place then stretch a piece of fabric (old t-shirts work great) to determine where the beams fall. I trim them so that they don't leave any ugly humps under the skin. HBREWS solution seems to work out rather well. Was not what I had in mind but it if looks good that is all that matters.

NICE! That is the first Fly Fisher I have seen. Going to have to share these photos. Maybe it will motivate some other builders.

PHOTOS, MAN! We need photos!! Seriously, send me photos. I haven't gotten any of that boat and really want to see it.

I think it time to make a new Gunwale. Yes it is extra work but if you don't you will always regret it.

WRC doesn't make a strong coaming from what I have seen. I prefer a hardwood on my boats. But I would use what ever the designer calls for.

It's fixed. I found the photos and uploaded them.

Thanks for the heads up. I will look into that and see what is going on.

It will take some digging but usually problems like this are a piece wood that was forced to bend into an odd shape and then when released it starts to return to it's original position. The gunwale is the largest and would be where I would start. It has more influence on the shape of the boat then you might think. I suspect one side is trying to return to it original shape. I remember one that did something similar to me. I know it was the gunwale but I don't remember what I had to do it fix it. Maybe it had a bad twist in one end and I cut it off and scarfed in a new straight section?

First off you shouldn't use a heat gun, that is just asking for trouble. You should shrink it with a clothes iron.

One thing to keep in mind is that it has to flex as the skin flexes. I wonder if the adding a harder would make it brittle and tend to crack? Rustoleum you find in the big box stores works perfect. I have painted a lot of boats with it. I have used tractor paint on some machines and it is durable. Just never tried it on fabric.

I have 2 in stock, I will have to check the store inventory level. Keeping the inventory correct for some reason is a major hassle!

Yes it would fit. But no it is not the same. I designed a better looking shape and used it on all the plans.

Thanks, I am doing well. I didn't bother to mention it but had to have a second surgery last week. There was a leak in the spinal cord that just would not heal. So they wheeled me in Surgery and literally glued and sewed a patch over the hole. Doctor said I was one unlucky fellow. He wasn't taking me to Vegas! The hole was at the base of the original incision and was the size of a pin head! For what ever reason it opened up and just would not heal. The old incision look great. My wife said the surgery was over in only 26 minutes. All the issues this leak were causing are gone. I am feeling very good for a change. Walking close to 2 miles a day. Back to the sever limit on how much I lift but that will only last a few more weeks. SO READY to get back to working regular!!

Site down the keel and I will bet there is a bend in keel or one of end plates. I made that mistake once. If not, keep in mind that leaning the boat to one side will cause it go the opposite way. It is a great way to steer the boat and make minor course correction while paddling. If it steers left, lean a bit left and it should start to go right.

Neither. You just make sure the frame corners are either flush or slightly lower than the face of the stringers.

Looks good and love the story behind the paint scheme.

If stability is the primary concern then 2n1 is going to be the most stable and is very versatile. If you are just looking to mess around on the water this would be my choice. I just forgot to list the Stabity on Mayfly but I have it documented. Just need to dig up the spreadsheets and find it.

I was going to ask about the floors too. Looks good and love the idea for the yoke.

yes

Good question and I had to look, but yes. They will have different shapes but both are 18"(+/-) wide. Yes, Curlew plans were the first to get the modified frame.

Sew it tight and you shouldn't have any issues. As for water based paint, I know it has improved but past experience wasn't great. Always test on scrap first.