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Kudzu

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Everything posted by Kudzu

  1. Just sold the last piece of 8 oz fabric. Supplier said it will be a while before he gets another shipment so I won't get any for a while. I may have found a couple of nylon fabrics though. Waiting on some samples but I have been looking for nylon for a long time and maybe this time it will work out.
  2. Now I see but I do not offer support for modifications from the plans. I have no experience and I am not going to say it will or won't work.
  3. Just got back in town. 1 foot extra for most boats. If your building something really wide you might need 2 feet. Simplest way to know is measure the gunwale length from bow to stern and be sure to allow extra to sew the ends.
  4. Been out of town. But as it says in the manual, these are just so that coaming rests on these, they are not attached to the coaming. Over time and depending on the plywood used they can start to bend to much and this is just so when you put you weight on it, they hit these stops and prevent the coaming from bending too much.
  5. There is always a good bit of scap fabric left, especially from the narrow ends. Best thing to do it measure the girth at the widest point of the boat to determine how wide a fabric you need.
  6. I was taught and stand by this, you want uncoated fabric. Sailcloth will have a coating of some sort on it. The issue is how do you waterproof it? Can you apply something over the coating and will it adhere to it? If it does stick will it start to turn loose latter on? That is why I advise buying from someone that sells fabrics specifically for this purpose. As Hirlonde implied, it is very hard to find something I consider suitable. I have talked to mills and distributors and only found three fabrics I will sell. I am sure there are others out there but I haven't found them. You can buy it from me or one of the other supplies and have it mailed. It will cost $30-$40 US dollars to ship (guessing) and you might face some import fee's to.
  7. They were originally plywood but we went with the laminated beam because of the extra room and it is more comfortable.
  8. Interesting, first I have heard of this. Only time I have this happen was with a little women that might have been 105 lbs wet in my Curlew. She just didn't sink the boat enough for it track at all. If you don't mind my asking, how much do you weigh? Have your tried moving the backband reward? I suggest 4" from the coaming but I usually put mine further back. If you haven't try that and see if it helps If not adding a permanent skeg is pretty easy. I add one one to one of the prototypes that didn't trac well. Might be something you would want to consider. Nice thing about it is you can adjust the boat to suit you. Don't think I have wrote up how to do it?
  9. I used bonze on mine. Pretty much indestructible.
  10. Keep in mind that footrest take a lot of force from your feet. Obviously lashing is strong but screws don't flex like sinew will.
  11. Just listed three of my personal boats for sale. Located in Guntersville AL. Craigslist ad links if you are interested. Cast Away, Shad and Sling Shot.
  12. What ever you buy just try it on scrap first. Seems sort of obvious but a lot of people don't think to do this. I expect Spar Varnish will work just fine. Just make sure whatever you use has UV protection and is meant to be used outdoors.
  13. 3. is the correct answer. Put your gear in and inflate the bag. The purpose of the bag is not really to float the boat but minimize the amount of water that can get in the boat in case of a capsize because you have to get that water out. So put the gear in, inflate the bag and fill as much empty space as practical. Bad idea, you never want anything at your feet because it could tangle around your feet and trap you in the boat. NEVER store things around your feet. I will put my water bottle in my lap but that is it! No strap or strings on my water bottle either.
  14. It SHOULD be dry enough that rain isn't going to affect it. Either way it should dry in a week.
  15. Not familiar with Tremoclad but assuming it is similar to what we have here in the States, I would say you just didn't give it enough time. Rustoleum oil based paint is my first choice because it is so tough. Oil based takes several days to fully dry and harden. If I can I put mine out in the sun as much as possible and I don't like to use one for a week. So while there is now way to know for sure, I just suspect it isn't fully cured.
  16. Sling Shot frames minus the coaming $100. In the store in the Clearance area. If you want a coaming I could build one of $50 or $150 total. Need to get it out of my way! I built this a while back and turns out it was paid for with a stolen card. I am tired of tripping over the box.
  17. Staple the sides first, work from the middle to the ends. Then as you get toward the ends it will be obvious where you need staples. With the premium fabric you will need to start lower on the bow/stern than with the other fabrics because of the tight weave. You can't stretch it around curves like the looser weaves. I strongly recommend a set of canvas pliers. Makes it easy to do by yourself. you can get the skin on nice and snug and wrinkle free. You can pull the fabric too tight too!
  18. I don't know if I have any photos but what I do is split the fabric and staple it to the bow (one side at a time). They run the rub strip right up to the top of the bow. End my stitching at the top of the bow (or stern). It is the easiest way to make it look nice.
  19. Keep it inside out of the sun and it really won't matter. UV is your enemy and what damages the finish. Paint is probably the most druable and easiest to touch up. But if you used a clear and kept it stored inside I doubt there is any real difference in life.
  20. You will have to do a little improvising but here is something from my web site on hatches I put in on Sling Shot. http://www.kudzucraft.com/web/adding-hatches I staple the skin on the ring under the lip on the hatch to hold it in place. You will just sew up the edge of the ring and tie it off. Start on the other side of the ring. There is no good way to explain it because you just have to work with the fabric, trim it and make it lay flat
  21. Paint a 1 inch black stripe where the colors meet and it will be perfect! That really finishes off the look. And it shouldn't be perfect either.
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