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BARRYFOY last won the day on April 13 2011

BARRYFOY had the most liked content!

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    Citrus Springs, Florida

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  1. Ray-- I just read your post, with great pleasure. I was camped in the trailer just up from you, and was taking Mike O'Brien's and John Brook's traditional small craft course. I really am very grateful to you for answering my electrical questions and filling me in on the high level of care needed in boat wiring. I loved the small craft course, but as you say, some were SMALL! I distinctly remember that sailing some of them required that I wrap my knees around the back of my neck. Any video of me and an equally large and ancient sailor in the Nutshell dinghy would surely have gone viral if put on YouTube. But we also rowed, and almost all of them were delightful rowing craft. We also sailed some larger craft, including the 12 1/2's, the Friendship sloop, and the Mackinaw boat. Anyway, I came away feeling that the boat I am building (Spindrift 11 nesting dinghy) is a good choice for me. It is interesting how we have different takes on the 12 1/2's. The week before, I had taken the Elements of Seamanship course (since I have been away from sailing for almost two decades) which was mostly in the 12 1/2's. I enjoyed them -- especially the Havens -- and found them to be very comfortable. I agree that I would want a tiller extension, if single-handing one. I would not want to own one though, especially here in Florida. Overall, the course was excellent, and I would recommend it anyone, even relatively experienced sailors. If nothing else, you learn how to drop and pick up a mooring under sail, under less than idea conditions -- something I had never done before. I would like to take the Elements II course next year, along with Clint Chase's oar course. You taught a great course, but from now on, my boat electronics will all be hand held! Barry Foy
  2. Thanks for the replies, guys. No, the kit has no pre-cut parts at all for the seats, due to the individual fitting required. Graham threw in enough offcuts for the seats when I picked up the kit. My own thought was that it would make sense to cut the boat, and check the fit of the seats for enough clearance. Some of the CD photos show that some builders did that. But Graham's instructions are specific about not cutting until the assembly is complete. I assumed this is because the installed seats stiffen the structure and prevent relaxing of the hull's fare shape. But I was concerned about following the plans exactly, since some of the dimensions indicated on the plans are different from the kit's dimensions. So I might just put some cross-braces in to be safe, and cut. I am concerned about locating the bulkhead exactly; but if I install cleats for them on the hull's side and bottom panels, I should be able to dry fit the bulkheads and stringers pretty precisely. And by using screws first, I feel I could check the fit of the nesting bow before committing to epoxy. Garry--I see you are nearby; I am in Citrus Springs. Barry Foy
  3. Now that I am home and the summer stifling heat is gone, I am back to work on my kit Spindrift 11 N dinghy. I have made an adjustable cradle for it, leveled the hull, and am starting to fit the seats. At this stage I would like some technical advice. Graham’s instructions refer to the CD for this stage, and while the directions for fitting seats in a standard boat are clear and well illustrated, there is not much on the very different seats for the nesting dinghy. I plan to adapt the procedures shown, but would like to check with experienced builders to see if I am on the right track. I am assuming the best sequence to be: - Fit and install notched cleats (3/4” stock) to the transom. - Fit and install the front bulkheads (1/4” ply). - Fit and install the stringers. - Fit and install the side panels (with holes for hatches.) - Fit (but do not mount) the seat tops. - Epoxy the interior of the seat chambers and the underside of the seat tops. - Install the seat tops. Does anyone have an alternative sequence or method that worked well for them? Does anyone have suggestions about techniques that may make any step more efficient or foolproof? In the CD, it appeared that the cleats and stringers were epoxied to the hull. I have a preference for using fasteners with glues. Would there be a problem with using small countersunk screws from the outside of the hull and transom? I am painting the hull, so covering the screw heads with filler is not a problem. Thank you in advance for your help. Barry Foy
  4. Dave and Graham-- Thanks for your replies! I had pretty well figured the consensus would be be flatten the panel before taping; it was easily done by placing a prop to bear up against a board placed across the inside of the panel. Barry
  5. After on-again, off-again progress, I had finished fitting and installing the foredeck/mast collar/front bulkhead, taping and and sanding the inside seams, and trimming and shaping the gunwales. The boat is now tight and rigid, and still fair. I then flipped the boat, and trimmed and fared all of the edges, ready for taping. I decided that rather than try and hollow the keel to match the ridge of the bottom, I would flatten the ridge, as per Graham's suggested alternative. I found I had to remove very little wood to get a 3/4" wide flat strip; it took about 5 minutes with a plane. I frequently balanced a ruler across the ridge to check its flatness. This brings up a Question: Graham's instruction specify bedding the keel with epoxy, which I plan to do. BUT...I have had luck with other boats in attaching spray rails and a sacrificial keel using screws and a good polysulfide (Lifeseal, I think it was) bedding compound. My thinking is that it would make replacing the keel (if it becomes so chewed up) a bit easier. Would there be any advantages in using such a compound rather than epoxy? A friend who has built many boats also suggested 3M 5200 sealant, but since that sets up hard, I don't see much advantage over epoxy. Now the possible Problem: One (only) of the bottom panels is bowed inwards longitudinally, centered on where the scarf joint is, by a maximum of 1/4" (see attached photos.) I have not yet made and installed the stern quarter seats. Should I make the effort of clamp the panel flat before fitting the seat on that side? It seems that the seat would help the bottom maintain whatever shape the it has, once they are glued into place on the bottom panel. Is this worth worrying about? If I do level that panel, should I do it before taping the outside seams? I find I can fairly easily push the bowed section flat by hand. Thanks! Barry
  6. Your thinking on a suitable boat has some similarity to mine. My first selection was for the Bay River Skiff 15 (after long looks at the the Bay Skiff, CS 15, and Goat Island Skiff.) I have the plans and plywood. But really thinking about my needs, I realized (well, it is more my wife being logical) that a boat that we could take along on our travel trailer trips would be most immediately useful. Thus, I am now building my Spindrift 11N, which features in my postings elsewhere on this site. Nested, it will just fit under the cap of my pickup truck. I am a fairly large person, and was even larger when I had experience in 10' Dyer and Trinka dinghys, sharing them with other large adult males. Thus, I have no concerns about the capacity of the Spindrift. At first, I was disappointed there was no Spindrift 12N, but now think that even the 10N may have been enough. One huge advantage I see to the BRS: A swing centerboard, which is impractical in a shorter boat, and obviously impossible in a nesting one. Despite that, I won't be too surprised if I find that the Spindrift is simply enough boat for me. Barry
  7. My standard way of cleaning rope and lines: Enclose them into a mesh laundry bag, and put them through the heavy duty wash cycle. Drape them in the air to dry. Remove or wrap any metal shackles first. Worked even for dock lines "stored" in the bilges.
  8. Ray- I had looked at the catspaw/twopaw sail. It could be an option. I was picturing something in the 55 square foot region. Barry
  9. I am preparing to install my mast step on my spindrift 11N kit boat, and am pausing to revisit a thought I had before ordering the kit: The type of sail to use. Obviously, from all reports the stock sail plan is highly successful, and produces a hot sailing little boat. But... I am not a hot sailing sailor myself. And my recent experience has been with with spritsails, particularly leg-of-mutton sails. I have been satisfied with their performance, and appreciate their simplicity. I conferred with Graham about using the main sail from the Bay River Skiff, which is of the desired type (another advantage: My current plan is to build a BRS 15 next. One less sail to buy!) He advised that this would involve changing the position of either the mast step or the daggerboard trunk to restore the boat's sailing balance. So, I shelved that plan for the sake of simplicity of construction. But I can't seem to shake the idea. So: Have any of you had any experience with sailing a Spindrift with other kinds of sails -- especially spritsails? Based on your experiences, what would you advise or recommend? Barry
  10. I will ad my vote to Garry's suggestion to look at a Spindrift nesting dinghy. I am currently building an 11 foot model, having chosen it because my criteria were similar to yours: I want a sound, capable small boat for my wife and I, that we can store under the bed cap of our pickup truck and thus take with us on our travels (we tow a travel trailer.) While I will equip it for sailing, mostly we will use it with a 2hp Honda outboard. Another advantage: Nested, it should store upright in a compact space in our garage.
  11. Bob- I am in Citrus Springs. Will you be at the CK boating bash in May? The longest boat I can comfortably build in my garage, and then store there on a trailer, is 15-16 feet. Plus, years of sailing the Chesapeake Bay in my Potter 15 gives me confidence in a good boat that size. I ordered study plans for both the BRS 15 and CS 15. I also looked closely at Karl Stambaugh's Bay Skiff 15, and the Goat Island skiff. I finally went with the BRS 15 for relative simplicity of build, lightness, and flexibility of use. I plan to have my Spindrift dinghy done in time to take up to Woodenboat School this summer, and then will start the BRS when I return. You are most welcome to come by and help out! Barry
  12. Alan-- Thanks for the reply and the link! I also got a direct reply about it from Graham (the man is amazing!) The consensus definitely is to not force the panels, let everything lie fair, install the gunwales, and then fit the bulkhead. It looks like I will be cutting a new one, but Graham gave me extra scraps of plywood when I picked up the kit. Barry
  13. Bob-- As a former owner of a West Wight Potter 15, I can't help but add my belated reply. I am currently building a B&B Spindrift 11 nesting dinghy, for use when traveling (it will fit under the cap of my truck, when I am towing my travel trailer.) But my next boat will be a B&B Bay River Skiff 15. I already have the plans and the okoume plywood for it. And the Cedar Key area will be one of my main sailing areas. The BRS 15 seems such a logical choice. I have every intention of towing it there with my Prius! Barry
  14. After having to set aside my boatbuilding for a few weeks, I am back at work on my Spindrift. The unfolding and wiring was surprisingly trouble-free. The hull's lines are fair, and a few taps on the supporting timbers took care of any residual twist. The photo shows the boat after I tightened the wires. I am having trouble with fitting the front bulkhead. There is quite a gap between the bottom corners of the bulkhead panel, and the chine seams (see photo.) The problem is in getting the bottom panels to curve up and in more -- soaking the panels hasn't helped, and I keep snapping wires. Looking through the construction photos on the CD that came with the kit, I see a variety of blocks, clamps, and screws used for setting this bulkhead. I plan to glue and screw hardwood blocks to the two chine corners of the bulkhead (forward side, so they will be out of sight), then use temporary screws through wood blocks and the bottom panels to pull the panels into place, until the seam can be epoxied and taped. Does this seem reasonable, or is there a better alternative way? Barry
  15. Garry- Any more photos of that arrangement? I tried to get to your listed website, but the link was dead. I see you are in Inverness. I was there twice yesterday, and live up the road in Citrus Springs. Barry
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