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Scott Dunsworth

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Everything posted by Scott Dunsworth

  1. Very nice, Hope you both kick B>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. down there.
  2. Call me a big girl but I wouldn't want any air flow from the anchor locker, with the sea bed smell filling the cabin. Scott
  3. I used onlinemetals.com for my Belhaven masts. You can get 3.5 with .125 wall the next section 2.75 with .065 wall and the last 2.5 with .065 wall. Shipping was cheap also. Scott
  4. Chick Don't make them, if you do you will eventually be tempted to use them. Oars are a horrible invention for modern times. Never touch one or look at one with lustful eyes. There are curses that come with them, like aching muscles and the very liberal thought that no smoke from an engine is good, plus many more unpleasing things. Run from the evil desire to build such a horrible device and embrace an Evinrude!!!!!! The smell of burnt oil is much more pleasant than the thought of killing thy liver with Advil. Scott
  5. Looks very nice and the color is perfect. Scott
  6. Where did you get this old paint from? I have mixed some really chunked up stuff before with the drill, like Par said, might take awhile.
  7. Randy the bilge keel will be difficult to add to your boat and get the so called tripod feature Graham talks about on the B&B website. I built the keel a few inches deeper than the plans, there is an extra 3/4 inch of wood and about another inch of lead ballast. Counting the centerboard the lead ballast is right at 350 lbs instead of the standard 250lbs. This few inches deeper makes the centerboard come up short a few inches when its retracted. Look under the boat and you will see what I am talking about. I have had the tide leave me high and dry a few times without any issues other then leaning over a few inches, not that big of a deal to me. Scott
  8. Don't forget to order brushing thinner, most that roll and tip use from 5% to 10%. It wont hurt to call Epifanes tec center before you start. They are the most helpful people when it comes to their product.
  9. I knew when I gave my experiences with Paint that there would be a lot of different opinions. People are passionate about paint as power tool brands. Just stated my experiences with paint. Two part Epifanes Sprays very easy and flows out nicely. It also can be rolled and tipped very nicely, very forgiving and flows out if its not hot or windy for those who don't want the hazards of spraying. It's just one of many things I don't understand why people spend good money on quality plywood, epoxy, stainless hardware and fasteners then save very little money at the end of a project by not using high quality two part poly. These boats are so small most can be painted with two or three quarts. So what's the big deal about another $60 to $90 at the end of such a project? I did it once, never again. As for environmentally better, Maybe, Maybe not. I worked in a aluminum can sheet factory for 33 years, they have the public BS ed into thinking recycling cans is great for the environment. They tell you that it takes 90% less electricity to recycle than make new aluminum which is true. What they don't tell the public is all the nasty pollution they make when burning all the coatings off used cans or how much gas it takes to remelt the cans. They don't tell you about all the fuel that's used to bale and transport the cans. It saves the aluminum industry a lot of money, but being environmentally the best thing to do is very controversial at best. Didn't mean to bore everyone with that bit of information, just wanted to make a point that everything is not as it is presented as GREEN. Scott
  10. I learned the hard way and on your boat Randy. One part paints, no matter what their quality or price do not hold up to two part poly. Do they look as good after applying, Yes they do, Do they look as good a year latter, NO. Only if the boat has set, seldom used under cover. Will bird do, wash off after it has set on one part finish for a while? nope. Will rust from a forgotten one pound propane tank scrub off, nope. Will gas and oil mix stains wash off, Nope. One Part Paint has its place, but it is not on the weathered side of a hull that is attacked by the elements and neglect !!!!! I know this opinion will not be popular or totally agreed with, so go with your feelings and come to your own way of thinking. I was told in the beginning of my boat building experience to use two part paint by a good source and I decided to save a few bucks and use one part, only to come up very short in the end. I have learned there is only one way get a really durable stain resistant hull. That is two part solvent based poly. Have fun! Scott
  11. Brent You were doing one of the most interesting builds of the form, what happened to the updates? The foam core is so interesting, I was looking forward to your updates! Scott
  12. Looks like the treated lumber corrosion I see on decks, some folks will cover parts of their home deck with aluminum. It will always corrode quickly. Most treated lumber is treated with COPPER and will attack the aluminum very fast. When building a deck for a customer that has any aluminum on it for cosmetic reasons, I always separate the two with a barrier of plastic or such. Don't know if this is the problem you have or not, but sure looks like it. For the same reason you cant use copper bottom paint on a aluminum boat.
  13. Got the electric turned on in the new shop this week . So today I started getting all the nastys sanded down so I can start glassing the inside this weekend. feels good to get at it again in a serious way. It's been a long time building two houses and a shop. But now I will be back at it. Building a larger boat is like getting married, its seems like its for life. I keep reminding myself, just one piece at a time. Hats off to you Peter for enduring and having the talent to build such a beautiful 28. I got a Catalina 22 that I restored for a friend back in 09. He has kept it garaged since then, so its still like new. I will now have a boat to go sailing in again. I haven't been sailing since my Belhaven left me. It will be nice to hit the water again. Unlike my Belhaven it is much heavier and takes forever to setup , I don't know if my V 6 will pull it across the mountains to the mess=about. I may take extra time and come anyway. Scott
  14. Thanks Par. I have no idea if that is a good price for fir marine, but to be able to pick up a sheet in twenty minutes is a big plus. As I understand it checking cracks is the biggest problem with fir. Which brings me to my next question should I , or must I epoxy all that stuff that is going to be painted inside?
  15. I found some good looking marine fir plywood with no visible voids on the edges 3/4 inch 7 ply ($65), 1/2 inch 5 ply ($55). What are the thoughts about using this for interior bulkheads and structures only, on my 28? This is locally so no freight charges make it about half price of meranti and a third of what Okoume is.
  16. Getting ready to back into the new shop and clean up the shear.
  17. I have got her turned over and on a building trailer that I can pull in and out of the shop. Graham got the lines right, she looks good. I will be moving her to the new shop next weekend. Next we will grind the nasties off and glass the inside. It took us ten hours to turn over ( the beam was greater than the inside height of the building ) and five hours to get it on the trailer.
  18. I use a older high end Dewalt that is a good jigsaw. I have used a lot of different jigsaws and the winner to me is the Makita, hands down for ease of use, also it doesn't have a grip type handle which I thought odd until I used it. It's not a expensive saw and you grip it around the motor housing, I know it sounds weird but it is a pleasure to work with. People are passionate about their tools for all kinds of reasons. My dad hates anything Dewalt and I wouldn't bring anything Ryobi home for free. A funny story ( to me ) Someone broke into a old historic house that a friend and I were restoring and stole most of our tools, about $3500 total . That's not the funny part! They took the Dewalt, makita and Bosch tools and left the cheap Porter cable, Black and Decker and Ryobi tools. I am not kidding, they knew what tools they could get the most for and I guess they could only carry so much. I do like the higher end Porter cable tools, they hold up well, their cheap lines are, well CHEAP. They do make a fine fixed mount router, biscuit joiner, and belt sanders. But to be fair, on the cheap side of their line, their 5 inch orbital sander has held up well for me. Most contractors I have worked around that use their tools daily, use Milwaukee, Dewalt or Makita tools. Back to the point, a circular saw does a great job of long sweeping curves such as hull panels but the jigsaw does have its place where it shines also. You can buy a Makita circular saw and a Makita jigsaw for less than $200 total and have decent tools, not top of the line but, tools that you won't want to throw across the shop. I agree with Par both are a get it in the ball park saws. Ken is 100% right on using a plane. I ALWAYS screw the panels together to make a mirror match, it is amazing what the eye can pick up on if your honest with yourself. The first thing I look at on a B&B butterfly type boat is the bow. How the panels mirror each other and how smooth and crisp the transition from the bottom to the side is?, how smooth that transition is?, is it a mirror image from one side to the other?, does the sheer look the same?. I have never got this perfect, but close. You must plane the panels to a mirror image of each other, be very careful with the sander at the transition from bottom to side and trust what your eye is telling you, to have a fighting chance at a really sharp hull. No matter what saw you use, the bench plane will be your best friend in the end. Scott
  19. Alan and Graham are great, they put up with me from time to time and that takes some patience. I love the Mandy boats and how they go together, the kits from BandB are very precise . I learned this first hand from having the pleasure of helping on a Mandy and listening to Alan and Graham in the shop talking about how to tweak the kits even more than what they are. The one I helped on was very exact. They seemed to want to make the kits it even easier to build than it was, I don't know how that could be possible. These kits are about as easy as it gets!
  20. I have a jig built to turn the hull, will be cutting her from the building frames Saturday and hoping for the best. I will post some pictures once she is turned and the shear cleaned up. Setting her on a trailer and moving her to our new boat barn.
  21. Howard I think I will finish building my keel the same way you just did. Only exception would be I will use blue board foam for the bottom that will be removed to mold the lead. Great work keep it up and keep posting it! We will be trying to roll my hull over this weekend, let you know how that goes, shes about 2000# right now. Scott
  22. Chick, sorry to hear about your table saw motor. I bet you didn't know that electric motors run off smoke, if you let the smoke out they always quit.
  23. Can someone make a logical case for only using stainless or silicon bronze screws. In the type of building most of us do I just can not see what the issue could be. The boat is totally encapsulated and usually the screws deep inside the structure. It looks like if there is enough moisture to eat up the fastener then the wood would be rotted out also. Any screws that are exposed is a no brainer. Someone help me understand and make sense out of this, because I have never been able to grasp any reasoning. Scott
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