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Dale Niemann

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Everything posted by Dale Niemann

  1. I was just curious to see differences between the two boats. I was rather surprised by the narrower beam, sail area and board down differences. I guess the mk3 can be narrow and carry more sail because of its water ballast. I believe on another post Graham said that the centerboard was also balasted on the mk3. The sail area is very significant also. Took these from Grahams website. dale Core Sound 17 LOA....................17' 0" BEAM.................. 5' 10" DRAFT................71/2" - 3' 6" SAIL AREA .......119 sq. ft. HULL WEIGHT...350 - 400 lbs SAILING WEIGHT 1000 lbs @DWL With people and gear Core Sound 17 mk3 LOA....................17' 0" BEAM.................. 5' 6 1/2 " DRAFT................8" - 2' 10" SAIL AREA .......141 sq. ft. HULL WEIGHT...400 - 450 lbs SAILING WEIGHT 1300 lbs @DWL With people water ballast and gear Able to be towed by a compact car Self righting Self bailing
  2. Lennie, As a reminder in case you do not remember what 'Lively' looks like see attached photo. Again, no stains. Just regular epoxy and Captains varnish 7 coats. dale
  3. I wish you a speedy recovery Jim. I agree with you & Steve that that time in the workshop is therapeutic. Send us photos of your boating adventures. To others related to religion, I do believe it would be nice to leave religion out of this forum. After all it is about boats and boatbuilding. I happen to be a Humanist but do not bring it up on this forum because it is not the place for it. I believe I have a good moral code and do good without God. We cannot prove there is a God and we cannot prove there is not one so I just leave it at that. As the singer/songwriter Iris Dement sings, "Let the mystery be". dale
  4. Alan, Thanks for the technical explanation. I still like the idea of less healing than in the photo. I am not big on technical stuff though. I like to just get out and sail. I totally agree with the idea that that you deserve something for all you videos and charts that we love so much. My local Independent Radio station has a icon they call the tip jar and you can click on it to contribute anytime. Maybe you could come up with something like that. I guess it would have to be on your website. dale
  5. Lennie, I did not stain anything on 'Lively'. Don't know if this will help or not but here is an article on the CLC site. http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/finishing-tips/staining-your-kayak.html dale
  6. Thanks again Allan for all your excellent videos. I wish I would have known this information when I built 'Lively' back in '07. I am curious why you like that photo the best. When I see a boat healed that much, it looks like a keel boat. I am under the impression that the CS sails better and faster with much less heeling. My favorite photos are CS's sailing relatively flat and fast. My 2 cents worth. dale
  7. As I mentioned to Docpal, it sounds very interesting and could be a very fun beach cruise. I am sure our WCTSS members will welcome any and all of you on any of our scheduled trips and would put the word out when you choose a date. If any of you would like to know more about our adventures just GOOGLE WCTSS. We are in the Tampa Bay area of Florida. dale
  8. I would suggest you need to think long and hard as to what you think the most use you will be giving the boat. Will it be mostly motoring for pleasure or fishing, i.e. wanting to get somewhere OR will it be mostly for sailing and used as an auxiliary for short slow distances when no wind or a channel. I have had a 2 HP Honda 4 stroke since I launched my CS 17 in 2007 and I have been mostly happy with its performance. I actually hate to use it because I am a sailor at heart. The only problems I have with it related to fuel and lack of use. Of course if you want to mostly motor I would go with something significantly bigger. Just remember not to hang too much weight on transom if you plan to sail and motor at the same time. My 2 cents worth dale
  9. I would only add one thing on #6. When first applying the glass it is very important to completely saturate the glass until no white is seen. Once the saturated glass has soaked into the wood. Then you must do one of the most important steps. That is take a squeegee to all surfaces. With each stroke clean off excess epoxy off squeegee into a paper cup that has been slit down the sides.(do not re-use this waste epoxy). You are doing this step to accomplish two things. 1. To remove excess epoxy, because if you don't it will puddle and the glass will float off the surface. You do not want it floating. Second you want to remove enough epoxy to clearly see the weave even dimples between the weave but not starve so it turns white again. Then once the epoxy has set up as soon as possible probably within 24 hours you should apply a coat of epoxy to fill the weave. If you do it within the 24 hours or whatever your epoxy says timewise, then you do not have to sand between these two coats. The above is very hard for me to describe but in practice not that hard. Hope this helps. My 2 cents worth. Maybe PAR can explain it in a better way. He is good at keeping explanations simple.
  10. Lennie, I believe I followed Graham's instructions above. I just went out and measured mine. Yes, they are 12" forward of the forward edge of the center thwart. The two oar locations are 34 1/2" apart. Dale
  11. Hi Gordy, Well yes you did because I have not gotten around to it. I have discovered a basic problem with myself. I procrastinate. I am waiting for all the women with the bikinis to show up. So far this old man is still waiting. When they do, I will definitely record it for you all to view. Right now, I am tied up with 'Lively' (CS 17) in my garage for a re-do of varnish, paint, re-rig, etc. dale
  12. Lennie, My opinion again. I have the third mast position with the tube. I have never used it except one time in very light air just to test it. I would not recommend it if you are going to use sail track and have reefing points in your sails. You will not need it. The discussion above is exactly why I feel it is not a usable idea. You basically, have to decide before you go out to move to the third hole. It the times I have had to reef on the water, it would have been impossible to move a mast and insert it in the third hole. I actually have installed two rowing positions on 'Lively'. At the time I built her I was thinking about entering the EC Challenge. This would have given me the ability to have both sailors rowing. I did not know it at the time but have since discovered that the forward rowing station can be used with the mizzen in its normal position. If I were to do it again I would install the forward rowing position and forget the aft position. dale
  13. I did not paint anything that is sealed from water and sun. Painting it just adds weight and extra work in my opinion. dale
  14. I have a Continental hot dipped galvanized trailer. I paid just under $1700 for it brand new. I am remembering it is a 17' foot but may be an 18' I don't think you need brakes on a trailer and boat combination as light as the Marissa. Also, by adding brakes you are adding more weight. You want to be careful not to have the trailer and springs too big for the weight of the boat so as not to beat the boat up. At least that is what I have been told. I tow my 'Salty' with a Subaru Forester and have had no problem in flat Florida. I have attached a photo of the boat and trailer.
  15. Mike, The best thing I have found to remove epoxy runs, bubbles, etc. is one of those Japanese files that are made out of what looks like crossed hacksaw blades. They are wonderful. Get one with the handle that is offset so you can file on flat surfaces. dale
  16. Well, I guess the attachment did not work. Here it is: "To the Sea, to the sailors who have gone before us. To Saltyā€¯
  17. Lennie, Here is the launch quote I used for the launch of both my 'Lively' CS 17 and 'Salty' Marissa 18. I got it more or less from Graham. See attached. dale
  18. Lennie, She is looking very good. Dale
  19. Thanks Peter for your details on the other post and the video. I have 'Lively' in the garage for a re-fit and I hope to do as you describe. Sounds great and a lot safer than climbing around on the bow deck. dale
  20. I agree with PAR. I believe the slot does not need to be covered. I did not on 'Lively' and have not had any problems with rocks or sand making it stick. On the CS series with the offset slot and the one inch keel rocks and sand do not seem to be a problem. I speak from having an O'Day Daysailor with a centerboard slot in the center of the boat with no keel. It had a sort of slotted plastic cover. The primary reason I sold it was because of all the times I had problems with the board getting stuck in the up position whenever I beached it. Many times I had to go underwater with a special tool I made to stick up in the board slot in order to pull it down. In my mind the slot cover helped capture sand which made it more likely to stick. I guess if you want to go really really fast and you sail in deep water and do not beach the boat, you might want a slot cover. My 2 cents worth. dale
  21. Dave, this is getting to be a habit. I agree completely with your comment. 'Lively' is built of Okoume and only the seams were glassed which is I think what Dave meant. Glass and epoxy everywhere adds a lot of weight Thrillsbe, If you want abrasion resistance on the bottom add glass on bottom only. I have been pulling 'Lively' up on FL sand beachs for about 7 years now with very little wear. However, I did polyester cloth the keel. I believe Graham recommends SS or bronze on the keel but I did not want the screw holes causing future problems. dale
  22. Lennie, What Dave suggested is exactly what I did when I build 'Lively'. I used the cutting board my wife had in the kitchen. Then I drilled an indent slightly larger than the clamp about a 3/16 deep on the inside side of the transom. I have been using this solution with no problems. However, just for my peace of mind and a small security factor, I also chain the motor to the boat. I cannot not tell for sure from your photo but it looks like your board it sticking up a couple of inches above the transom. This puzzles me because I am using a 20 inch shaft 2HP Honda and mine is up about 1/2 inch on the center side and maybe 1 inch at most on the outside. Also, it appears that yours is mounted much closer to the center than mine. I have had no problems. So be careful to be sure you have adequate room to clear the rudder full over and clearance at the bottom to 360 degree the motor. Also, one thing I might change if it did it over is to maybe mount it about 1/2 inch lower. But again, I have not had any problems. dale
  23. No I have not clocked with GPS. Sorry. As I said I am really a sailor so not much into speed. I usually run at half throttle or even idle if my wife is along.
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