Dale Niemann

JeffM, Terry is correct. I purchased the 2.5 inch tubes with 0.125 wall thickness. Also, on this size wall they do not guarantee the wall thickness like they do on the smaller sizes.

Here is the photo. I am not sure what the name of this honing tool is. The three abrasive stone slides fit into the tube and expand outward to smooth and remove material VERY Slowly ( which is probably good).

Sorry, I am having trouble getting the photo to attach. It is too big. I will add it tomorrow.

An update on the Alum tube to mast process. The inside diameter of the 2.5" tube is too small to accept the 2.25" tube. I spent some time using a small drum sander on a drill and was unsucessful. I took the tubes to a metalshop and they could not ream out the tube because it was too big for their machine. They suggested getting a hone. Specifically, a dingleberry hone. In trying to find one of these, I found they go by various names, china berry, rasberry, etc. They look like a hair brush, with wires with small sphere shapes of grinding stone at the tips. The only place I found one was at a NAPA Auto Supply store. However, they did not have the right size and the cost would have been about $70, so I gave that up. A friend finally, came to the rescue. He had a friend in the auto engine repair business. He provided the hone shown in the attached photo. It did the job. However, it still took almost three hours of grinding to get the small tube to fit into the larger. Next, I will Epoxy the tubes together.

Thanks Graham for the above information. I encourage you to produce the plans because there are a lot of us that want a cruiser camper configuration.

Just for fun, here is the 10 year old paint job on "Bananas" .

Your boat looks great!!! 10 years ago, I built my John Marples 3 Meter Tri "Bananas" and painted it with System Three paint. It is just now beginning to need to be re-done. I think you will be very happy with your paint. Since I am not much of a maintance person, I decided to build a CS 17 instead of re-painting "Bananas". How much paint would you recommend I purchase for my CS 17? I am getting close to needing it. Thanks, Dale

Thanks Graham, I will do it.

Thanks everyone for the responses. Brent, I would be interested in some event also. Graham, please let us know what happens when you see them on May 7th. I will be going to Cedar Key then. It is the really big small boat thing around Florida. Everyone is welcome to come on down to it.

Graham or Bill Heil, I purchased my masts in two 8ft sections of 2.5 X 0.125 and 2.25 X .065 as in comment above. I would appreciate your help in answering the question below. My question is: which section should I cut off by 9 inches? Should I keep the metal at 16 ft which would make the wood section shorter by 9 inches or reduce the lower or middle section? Or should I cut each section off by 3 inches?

Graham, I would appreciate an email copy of your oar plans. Thanks,

I just had another thought (dangerous). Sorry, I can't let the mast tube go. Graham, have you considered recommending a PVC tube as a mast tube. I used one on my Marples 3 meter tri and it has served very well in the 10 years I have had it. After the trouble I had and I see others having, maybe it would be a good choice. It would certainly be much less expensive than all that fiberglass and epoxy. Incidentally, on the 3 meter tri the fg tube I made was for the rudder.

Is the GREAT RACE scheduled this year? If so, would you please provide information about it. Thanks

Thanks Graham for this information. I will be doing it shortly. I don't see any leathers or oarlocks on the oars. What kind of oarlocks are you using? Sorry, I didn't notice when I saw your boat. Did the 8' 11" oar length work out ok during your Watertribe race?

I must have sinned plenty. Well, I hate to add more flames to the fire but the day before yesterday I made the mast tube. I bought new 6 mil plastic, wrapped it 4 times around the mast. Then I wrapped 50 inches of 8 oz fiberglass cloth around the mast. I came to 50 inches by mathematically expanding the 40 inches Graham recommended for 8 to 10 oz cloth. Since I was using 8 oz, I wanted to be sure to get the proper thickness. I basically wrapped it as Graham describes above. However, I did use the brush to smooth it down following the roll of the mast. It looked just great and had the right thickness. Of course I did both masts. Then yesterday I tried to get if off the tube. BIG PROBLEM! I tried a huge pipe wrench, strap wrench, pounding on the ground, and drilling a hole in a 2x4 sliding it down and trying to use it with ropes and a pipe in the tube end (like a wheel puller) and then pounding on the 2x4 until it broke. After trying everything I could think of for a few hours, I gave up and decided to sleep on it. Today I cut fiberglass tube lengthwise to get it off. Then wrapped one wrap of plastic on the mast, slid the fg tube on and spread the cut with a couple pieces of wire. Then I used some quick set epoxy just to hold it apart. Once that cured, I removed the wire, epoxied and taped the cut with two layers of 6oz cloth on the bias. Tonight, I slid it off with no problem and it appears everything worked out fine. I believe it will have the strength needed. As Graham suggested, I will overkill when glassing it in the boat. Analysis of what when wrong: When I was initially beginning to wrap the plastic on the mast, it kept falling off. So I placed three very small pieces of clear plastic tape one on each end and one in the middle. I then completed the 4 wraps and again placed three small clear tapes to hold it. I believe possibly these tapes did not allow the plastic to twist on itself so that the fg tube could come off. I really spent time a lot of time in the moaning chair over this, especially because I have done this once before on my Marples 3 meter tri and did not have a problem. Oh well, on to installing the tubes next.

Thanks Graham, I really appreciate your quick response. I will probably be doing the mast tubes today.

I understand from Graham's response to use 6 mil plastic with 4 wraps but I have not seen anything that indicates how many wraps of fiberglass and what weight of glass. I was thinking either 3 or 6 oz. but would appreciate any help with how many wraps with each weight. Thanks

Graham and Fred, congratulations on a great race! I enjoyed meeting both of you and seeing your boat and all the equipment. Thanks for answering my questions and showing me the boat. Based on the notes above, it sounds like you made the right decision to wait out the storm. Sorry I did not make it down for the start but my wife was not doing well. Dale

Thanks Graham. I will plan to visit you on Friday and also be there for the race start the next morning.

Hi Graham, I was planning to go to watch the start of the WaterTribe event this year, since I will not have my boat done in time. I wanted to do it myself. I know you will be a much better representative of Core Sound boats than I would have been. I have been following it since its inception. Depending on the weather, it can be a very grueling event. If you have any spare time when you are in St. Pete/Clearwater area, I would like to meet you. Maybe we could meet for lunch or something. While you are here, if you need anything for the boat or help in any way please call me. I will be happy to help. Good luck and have a great time. Dale

Thanks Graham for this information. I look forward to your photos. Sounds like a great solution. I will plan to incorporate the 2" PVC into my compartment. I will be there before long. I am working on the seats now. Did you mean the PVC goes all the way into the forward compartment or just under the forward seat? When you show photos would you please provide the measurements for the second set of oar positions. Thanks to you Tom, also.

Does anybody have any ideas or photos of the placement of oars on the CS 17 when they are not in use? In other words, how to store them so they are completely out of the way until needed.

I am not sure about the storage of the completed boat with trailer but I can assure you that a CS 17 can be built in a garage that is 10' by 18' because I am doing it now. However, ask me if I would wish it on anybody else and I would say NO! About a thousand times so far I have said why did I do this. The answer is the CS 15 was not available when I bought the plans and it was obvious that the CS 20 would not fit. I spend a lot of time moving things out of the way just to be able to walk around the boat. Since I live in Florida, I am able to move the table saw out on the driveway on most days. Good luck on your project. Keep us posted on how you solve your delimma.

Tom, I like your idea of using left over wood. Have you had a chance to try out your drains yet? Any other suggestions since you have now completed them?

Gordy & Richenry. Thanks for your feedback. I think I have just about decided to go ahead and try it. Will let you know how it goes.