Jump to content

Dale Niemann

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Dale Niemann

  1. I am sure Graham would have it on the plans but make sure when you make the second side of the keel that none of the joints are at the same place as the first side. Also on my Marissa they usually go in opposite angles as the first side. This is hard to explain but hopefully it is shown on the plans and my worry is for naught. dale
  2. Thanks Graham. Short List sounds good. I will look forward to your design and hope you offer it in a kit also. dale
  3. Graham, I noticed someone had mentioned the first annual SUP race in New Bern. SUP = stand up paddleboard on one of the posts. It sure would be nice if you offered a SUP design. I have been wanting to have one. I understand they are great for core trunk muscles. I need this. dale
  4. Joe, I have had no problems whatsoever using the original standard cheap black rollers that came on my Continental tilt trailer. I launch and retrieve the same way you do. Since it is rolling on the keel I have never worried much about the black rubber damaging the hull or anything like that. I do spray silicone on the bunks occasionally. I do not have the stainless shoe. My "shoe" if you want to call it that is the Xynole that I covered the keel with. Therefore, it has rounded edges which may make a difference. Hope this helps. dale
  5. I have been sailing my CS 17 'Lively' for about 4 years or so mostly solo. I would say that if you mostly sail with 4 adults you need a CS 20. I am now 72 and yes the masts do get heavier and more unwieldy with age. However, I routinely raise mine with sails rolled on the mast with no problems. I would definitely recommend sail tracks with double reefs. There have been many times when I have been very happy I have had double reefs sailing solo in 25 knots of wind. She planes very easily. 'Lively' has taken very good care of me and I would recommend the CS 17 to anyone. I have a tilt trailer so I never get the hubs wet which saves a lot of problems. She launches with a big push and cranks back on the trailer with ease. No need for a tabernacle. Good luck with your decision. You can not go wrong with any of Graham's designs.
  6. Thanks everybody for your comments. I really appreciate them. I have been doing other things so have still not purchased the trailer which I need to set the boat on after turning it over right side up. Then finish the inside before motor decision becomes really serious. Thanks, Dale
  7. This is my first post on my Marissa construction. I will try to fill in later with details and progress photos. My stage of construction at this point is the hull is complete and the bottom, bootstripe and topsides are painted. I am now looking for a trailer so I can turn her over and finish the cockpit, center console, paint her and do all the motor, steering, electrical, etc. which I know nothing about being a sailor since 1970. Well, I will start this topic with a question. I am beginning to investigate the which motor question. About the only decision, I have made is that I am going with 40HP. I am getting a lot of conflicting advice on motors. 2 cylinder 3cylinder? 2 cycle 4cycle? I think I have just about narrowed it down to Yamaha 4 cycle or Evinrude 2 cycle E-Tec. I do not know much about engines in general so the Evinrude promise of 3 years or 300 hours with no dealer scheduled maintenance and then 3yrs after that sound very appealing. I guess when it comes down to it though, I want realibility most. On paper everything seems to favor the E-Tec but most of my friends say I should get the Yamaha. My question is, what opinions do all you very supportive boaters out there have about this choice?
  8. Russel, Thanks for your info on the prop. I guess I will have to go through the same process you did. Graham said that you may be coming to his messabout. I am going to try to get the boat done by then but I do not work well under pressure. I may bring up my CS 17 'Lively'. If I do, I hope to see you and your boat there. Gordy, I respect your opinion also. I may have told you this before, but you and your CS 17 are the reason I decided to build 'Lively' and I have never been sorry. So thank you for that. Dale
  9. Thanks Russell for the info on the 40 HP. If you could get me specs on the prop, I would really appreciate it. Thanks Gordy, Hey, this is a Eco Friendly designed for 25HP which resulted in a win in the WoodenBoat contest. Therefore, I feel I am streaching the concept by jumping up to a 40. The main reason I jumped to the Yahama 40 is because it is fuel injected and as Russell mentioned a 3 cylinder. I know I do not want a Mercury. Graham says the design will handle up to a 60 but that is not for me. I am an Eco kind of guy. Actually, I am a sailor at heart. If I was worried about speed, I would have built or bought something else.
  10. Russell, I am at the stage of painting the bottom, bootstripe and topsides. Then turn over and do the cockpit and decks. I too plan to put a Yahama 40 HP on my Marissa so if you could take the time to find out exactly what prop you ended up with and provide it here, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Dale
  11. I just happened to check out the design forum and saw your question. I have attached a production dingy of the 1950s which I aquired some time ago and subsequently have given to a friend to restore. I have no idea how well it sailed. But it definitely has the forward dagger board. Dale
  12. Wes, Can't help you with a 20 but here is 'Lively' my CS17. I am 5'8" and the mizzen sail goes completely over my head on tacks. I like this arrangement. I have a couple of times done as Ray suggested just lower both sails when contemplating reefing and it does help.
  13. I will join the parade praising Graham, Carla and their team. They have both have been very responsive in every way. I am currently (very slowly) building my second B & B design and bought the 1st kit from Graham of his Marissa. There were a couple of problems in the beginning and they were quickly resolved in an excellent manner. I will say, I only have the highest praise for Graham. Dale CS17 Marissia Salty (under const)
  14. Do you keep the boat in the water? I keep 'Lively' on a trailer and never drop the sails unless I am reefing. I roll the sails up on the masts for storage on mast holders that fit into the mast holes. The sails rolled up also act as a great boat cover holder upper. Dale
  15. One more observation. The reason I got rid of my O'Day daysailer was the centerboard was in the center. Whenever I beached it sand and shells would get up in there and lock it in place. I actually made a little metal tool just to go under the boat and use it to pull the centerboard down. I have had absolutely no problems with my CS 17 offcenter board. Also the small keel allows some sailability with the centerboard completely up. In like sailing in 8" of water. Dale
  16. Hey Alan. Can we see a photo of your bail method with the eyes and line? thanks, dale
  17. Here is a very interesting response I received from a member of the West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron WCTSS here in Florida. It makes a great deal of sense to me. "I recommend an approach used by some small-boat sailors in the UK. Get a pair of cheap, light composite ("plastic") equestrian stirrups (I bought them online from a site here in FL for $20). Put them on lanyards. Tie the lanyards off on the p&s sides of the boat -- to shroud chainplates if you have a stayed rig, or perhaps to something sturdy under the side deck. As Eric points out, the lanyard should be reachable by the person in the water. For lack of a more outboard tie-off, tie the lanyard around the mast -- provided you can reach it from the water. Lanyard(s) should be adjusted to allow you to get a foot in the stirrup from the water while also letting you then get the other leg up and over the coaming. When not in use, the stirrups live very unobtrusively in the bottom of the cockpit -- but ready to be pulled or thrown overboard when needed. An additional benefit is that they can help you re-right the boat in the event of a capsize".
  18. Thanks Mike for your input. It looks like it would work. However, in my sailboat which would probably be blown backward because of the centered mizzen, I would be a little concerned about the solid wood that would act as a brake on one side of the boat. Upon further research, I think I am going to order the Garelick Stainless Steel Transom Ladder Step #19612. It sells for around $50 and I think will do the job nicely.
  19. I have the same question on boarding ladders. After 4 years with 'Lively" CS 17 having no boarding ladder, I have decided to add one. Anybody out there have a suggested product or home built ladder? The two I have come up with are: http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=19612 or http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=19513 but I am worried that both stick out too far and will interfer with the rudder. Please help both of us find or build something from your ideas.
  20. Wes, Expecting! I was wondering where and what you were doing. Now we all know. Dale
  21. I have two oarlock locations. One pair at the usual location and one pair forward of the mizzen. I can row from there by sitting on the centerboard trunk. I have never done if for very long but it is an option for short distances. Graham gave me the proper location for the second pair and I am sure he would give you this information for the CS15. dale
  22. I have the third mast step and have never used it. The problem is to pull a mast and move it in bad weather is just about impossible. Even if you are able to hide behind and island or something, double reefs in both sails are definitely better in my opinion. dale
  23. Early on about 3 years or so ago, I had Dabbler sails re-do my sleave sails to a track configuration. Stu added two reef points and they have served me very well. I have sailed my 'Lively' CS17 in winds up to about 25 with higher gusts double reefed and had no problems. I live where the EC starts and have watched with great interest over about 5 or 6 years the weather etc. that thses guys sail in. I can tell you without a doubt, I would not want to sail the EC with only one reef point. Get yourself a second reef point and you will never be sorry especially if you are considering the EC. By the way, I am very happy with track mounted sails, also. Dale
  24. On my 'Lively' CS 17 I left the plywood deck edges exposed because that is what I saw on Grahams EC winner. Lively was lanched in 2007, has never been revarnished (yet, hopefully this year) and I have had no problems whatsoever. As Hirilondel said they were sealed with three coats of epoxy and 7 coats of varnish. Dale
  25. I have worked with Carbon/Kevlar combination in 6oz. We did it in a canoe/kayak building class I took last summer at the WoodenBoat School. It is easier to work with than I thought it would be but is definitely different from fiberglass. There are two things that are different. First is that it is much harder to tell when it is wet out. It is not like fiberglass that completely changes from white to clear. It wets out with only a very suttle change in reflection which is hard to describe but is definitely discernable. You have to watch it carefully for this change to be sure it is thouroughly wet out. Second, it is more difficult to cut. You need to establish a specific set of sizzors and only use them for Carbon/Kevlar. It will ruin normal sizzors. As to weight, I do not have an answer. However, it was interesting, in the class we built a 12' stripper canoe and used the carbon/kevlar on the inside. Apparently, C/K is most economical in the 6 oz size so that is what we used. The normal specs for the boat called for 4oz fiberglass on the inside and outside. So per the instructor, we had no weight savings using the 6oz C/K when compared to 4 oz fiberglass cloth. We did it mostly for the education and the 'cool' look. If you are interested further the instructor in the class has written a book you might want to check out at your local library. 'Building Strip-Planked Boats" by Nick Schade. As a sidelight, I built my Core Sound 17 'Lively' about 4 years ago and did not fiberglass the hull or bottom. I did use polyester cloth on the keel and a small section along the chine where it flops over when grounded. Of course we have mostly sand here in Florida but I have never had any problems with wear and tear on the hull and I pull it up on the sand all the time. You have to decide whether you want it for strength or abrasion resistance. Polester cloth is very good for abrasion resistance and a hell of a lot cheeper. Dale
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.