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  1. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  2. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Not much has really changed, I've just been sanding. But I finally bought a new phone and have a clear photo.
  3. 2 points
    On 02 April we drove to the factory and picked up the kit using the modified catamaran’s trailer. As predicted, upon arrival the skies opened up and made for a drenching experience while loading. Prior to arriving Alan recommended picking up a poly tarp which we draped over the crate followed by numerous wraps of shipping film around the circumference. After skillful loading I was impressed the trailer was in darn near perfect trim and balance for a very wet drive home. The next day under clear blue skies I removed the tarp and film to find the crate dry and the contents unaffected. Thank you Alan! As parts were unloaded, inventoried, stowed and somewhat organized in the garage, it subtly came to me just what a huge project I’ve taken on. My mantra is to enjoy the journey and destination will be that much sweeter. Thank you all who have contributed to this forum, your posts provide me with such great amount of information and knowledge that provides me the confidence I can achieve one of my bucket-list goals.
  4. 2 points
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  5. 2 points
    Thrillsbe, looking great. I may retrofit the Suzy J with the new joining hardware. Looks pretty slick. A t trick for the next person.....They sell craft foam at michaels that is about the same as the kerf on a handsaw. It supports the bulkhead gap but can be cut like butter when doing the magician's trick.
  6. 2 points
    The 60L barrel in the back has supplies and tent and all that I need for a few days while I go into the back country i made a lot of mistakes on this build, and my next boat (the Tandem canoe) will be built so much better based on the lessons learned here. And then maybe the Castaway, or maybe I don't need three boats... Also caught my first fish in it last week.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Nice work Amos. You'll find the shelving very useful. For builders who haven't installed the sheer strakes -- it's much easier to install the shelf-supporting cleats before doing the s-strakes. Same for any drawers you may want that may be stowed between Blks 4 & 5 that [for easy access] slide out over the bunks. For Chessie I'm still trying to figure out where to put hangers for shirts, hats, jackets, etc.
  9. 2 points
    Several times over the years the discussion about connecting nesting dinghies comes up. Before B&B came out with their UHMW plastic connectors a former contributor to this forum designed his own out of S/S. While going through my bookmarks I found Garry's link which includes pictures and drawings. I made mine exactly as Garry designed them and after 10 years they still work perfectly. It makes assembling the halves in the water (good when you are cruising) very easy, actually, easier than assembling on land. I like the idea of plastic as even S/S steel rusts, especially when bedded flush and underwater for periods of time. My dinghy spent 2, 5 month seasons in the water at a dinghy dock and the rust, while superficial looks terrible. There would probably be less issue for a dinghy stored on land. Any way, here it is...... https://pbase.com/onceagain/connector_design
  10. 2 points
    Well Chessie's dinghy, "Catnip" (a Two Paw 7), is finished (except for painting her interior a "battleship" gray). So I'm finishing the conversion of Chessie's trailer from 3-rollers to one 16' trough. Today applied the last coat of epoxy with one tablespoon of powered graphite. Here's a photo: Once the cure was at the "thin-film set" stage -- can you believe that I was allowed to move the sixteen foot epoxied 2x4 board into our living room to cure in 70 degree comfort? Now that's a wife you can live with for 60 years (come July)! I'll smooth out that groove with 400 grit aluminum oxid paper. Once installed, I'll help it be nice and slippery with some paste wood-floor wax. The loading will be reduced from ~500 lbs/roller to just ~100 lbs/foot, or only about 8 lbs/inch! I think the keel will be much relieved and the boat will have an easier highway transport. Chessie is in a lift at Backyard Boats in Woodbridge so that I can have the trailer at home for the modifications. Too much sunshine! Better pix later. Forward roller (aft to right). Middle roller. Note "walking board" going forward (to left). Very useful (recovering) for attaching winch hook to bow-eye and keeping dry. Aft roller. The board at the bottom of pix is the CB catcher. This keeps the CB from ever dragging on the highway -- and also never hanging up on the aft cross member when launching. Once the new trough proves itself in a trial launch -- I'll discard the rollers.
  11. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  12. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  13. 2 points
    I try to tell myself that. In fact, I started to clean up the sole of my build a week or so ago and started with the attitude of "it's a walking surface and will have non skid on it so I'm not going to put much effort into fairing it". Didn't last too long before I had the long board on that too. I know myself, if there is one thing out of place in the finished product, I will have to look at it every time I use the boat and berate myself for not addressing it. Who's the smarter man, the one who is playing with his boat or the one who is still sanding it 3 years later.
  14. 2 points
    I'm using the two Anderson bailers method. I don't think it is necessary superior to any other method; just different (Jay's system works very well; I saw it in person at one of the Messabouts and it is very quick to fill and empty). Yes, you do have to remove the flapper in the reverse-mounted bailer (hereafter referred to as the scoop). It is very easy to remove; pliars and 10 seconds are all you need. Filling While sailing: filling with the scoop does not take long at all, even at 1 knot While motoring: very quick and effecient Not moving: slow (I open both bailers to speed it up, but it takes awhile). It will only fill the tank up to the waterline of the boat, so you will have to top it off after closing the bailers. I use a folding bucket. Any water spilled goes right out of the self-draining cockpit. Emptying While sailing: need to be moving above 3 knots. I haven't timed it, but it isn't quick. It won't empty the last inch or so of water, but I don't think that is a big deal. One disadvantage is situations when the wind dies down, you are moving slow, and you want to empty the tank. It can take a while. I need to buy a kayaker's hand pump for these cases; I think that would work well. While motoring: empties quickly and effeciently Not moving: only the portion of the tank above the waterline will empty (maybe 25% of the tank?). I need to get a handpump for these cases. I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Yes, you need a handpump and bucket, but those are good items to have regardless of the ballast tank. I think the ballast tank is one the best features of the boat (love the low trailering weight), and whichever empty/fill technique you use you will be happy you have one. I hit some steep chop close-hauled in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, put the water ballast in, and it smoothed out the motion of the boat. I was amazed at how well it handled the waves.
  15. 2 points
    I started this spindrift over 10 years ago, it got set aside for other projects shortly after I got started. But I was needing something to do this winter that would fit in the garage so out she came. The bottom of the hull is 1/4 inch meranti and the sides are 3mm oakume planked with 1/4 inch mahogany. The transom is rounded mahogany and the front deck is mahogany and birdseye maple. I'm moving along at a good pace now so I will bee posting a few pictures along the way for those that are interested. There is a lot of customizing of this boat, its the basic design with some pretty's added. She will come in 40 to 50 pounds over weight I'm sure but she will sure be purty! Heres a pic of the deck roughed in.
  16. 2 points
    It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    OK, I took the easy way out and taped a line at the waterline using a laser level. The big reason is I didn't have enough room to extend the V shaped pieces wide enough in my shop. We'll get that step done when she's on the trailer. I flipped the hull (getting easy now!) and painted the sides and then below the waterline. The hull is a nice grey. Super happy with the color. FWIW, I wanted to use a 2 part poly due to it's fuel resistance. I wound up using Interlux Perfection. On the bottom I used VC-17 (freshwater paint) over a 2000E epoxy coating. Tonight I start putting fittings on permanently. Yay!
  20. 2 points
    Tom, You know what I think about ballast in a powerboat. I am looking forward to seeing the Old Codger. Alan asked me last week how I thought she would float, I answered " by the stern" and he said "I think so too". Of course I had prior info, Chick told me that he was going to steer with the tiller. Maybe we can talk him into some sort of bulkhead steering system. It would be more agreeable when he does the Great Loop. She is so light that her moment to trim would be small, maybe a few cans of vienna sausages and a couple of Linda Ronstadt tapes stowed in the bow will trim her out and leave the stones ashore.
  21. 2 points
    Looks like the water level got up to about 8' above MWL. I just got some pics from Taylor that show a mess under our house (expected) but no disaster. I think Alan and family did a great job of prep at the shop, still a huge mess to clean up, but he reports that the losses don't look substantial. Alan and Taylor, and Graham and Carla are back putting their world aright. Bobbie and I fared well in Chapel Hill, but I'm not sure when we'll get back out to start cleanup at this point. Travel is difficult with so many roads closed. Alan and Taylor snuck out between the surge subsiding and the rivers rising.
  22. 2 points
    Aug 27 Update: We've got some momentum now. It feels good to glue in parts. We spent a good part of Sat. and Sun. working on the boat. Earlier in the week Taylor filleted and taped the aft side of BH5 into place and on Sat we installed the port side of BH4 and got all of the seams between BH1 and BH2 taped. Below, BH4 is split into 3 pieces in the updated version of the CS-20 Mk3. This allows the center panel to be installed after the ballast tank is glassed like a bathtub which will hopefully eliminate the possibility of any leaks. To the left, the BH is cutout and the space behind it is storage at the end of the port bunk. To the right the panel is solid because it will be the front side of the Cooler box. We're planning to copy Graham's Cooler design. The right side panel is normally also cutout but I cut a new one out of scrap. The hole could have been filled in with scrap but i had a big enough piece so i just remade it. Here I am dryfitting the 3 together while gluing in the port side part to keep everything square and lined up. A clamp was needed at the top to pull in the gunwale just slightly. Had about 1/8" gap between the hull side and frame in the middle of the panel which is normal. We always leave gaps like that alone so as not to "dimple" the hull. Below: a view from the stern. BH5, BH4, BH3 (with companionway cutout). Note the gap for the CB trunk on the port side and a thin 1/4" gap on the stbd side of BH4 for the starboard cockpit side. Below: A view of the keel between BH1 and BH2. All the glassing and taping is done in this area. Next up will be installing the cleats to support the forward locker top and final epoxy coats inside the locker. I'll also be installing an inspection port in the bottom of the BH1 to gain access to the space underneath the anchor locker well. On Sunday we installed the pre-coated and sanded starboard cockpit side panel. The tabs and wedges worked excellent to pull the part down tight to the hull. Taylor got straight to work filleting and taping the outside joint. Below: At the same time, we installed the starboard piece of BH4 and glassed it in. This box completes the sides of what will be our cooler space. Next in here will be blocking in blue insulation foam. The center panel of BH4 was again used to maintain the space and keep the frames square and true. It is not glued in yet and won't be until after the ballast tank is glassed. Meanwhile, I've got the centerboard trunk (also the port cockpit side) coated and almost ready to install. I still need to drill the CB pivot hole out. I plan to make a 90 jig for the drill and drill it by hand rather than try to line it up on the drill press.
  23. 2 points
    I finished up a Tadpole that I’ve been building for my great nieces and nephews. It was such a fun project. It came together much faster than the Long Shots. I can’t wait to paddle with the kids. Thanks for the plans Jeff.
  24. 2 points
    Dave, I thought the bow pulpit and anchor were for us pirates to use for ramming boats and docks and such. dale
  25. 2 points
    I started out in a competitive Windmill racing fleet before I really knew how to sail. Had read all the library books on sailing boats but in 1966, that was not very many. In our first couple races with Liz as my crew, we dumped in blustery conditions at the leeward mark. The early Windmill was completely open and did not have any flotation other than the wood in the boat so flipping it back up and sailing on was out of the question. I was able to bring it back vertical with tons of water inside and tossed out the anchor which brought the boat head to wind. With Liz hanging on to one rail, I bailed with a bucket until the water was below the daggerboard slot and climbed aboard to get more water out. Finally I was able to pull my long suffering crew aboard and hauled the anchor. We finished the race and and Liz asked me if that was the worse that could happen. After I assured her that a capsize was about it, she said "well I won't worry any more" and we went on to years of more racing capsizes, some easier, some worse and a few much more difficult. The experience gained from easy situations stood in good stead whenever Murphy decided to try new tests of our skills. After this episode, I installed port and starboard air bags that allowed for much easier recovery. One crazy capsize occurred in a regatta in Chick's back yard at a small lake just south of Asheville on the first week of November. While attempting to get relief from very blustery wind, I sailed into a downwind cove. I immediately saw that this was a stupid thing to do as the wind remained high as well as having large shifts side to side in the cove. Managed to tack around but one shift just flipped the boat over. My boat "Don Quixote" rolled mast down and on through a 360 and came back upright. By this time the capsize practice paid off and I just walked the boat all the way over and stepped back inside, where the water finally came over the top of my boots and got my feet wet for the first time. The lake is cooling water for a power plant and is so tepid that tropical fish live there. Of course on the first of November, the air is cold and we sailed back to the club dock for my crew to get out and dry out in the warm clubhouse. I was ashamed to admit to my crew that I was all dry and he may have never forgiven me. Many capsizes in Lasers and many other boats came along at regular intervals while racing. It is a general truth that if you do not capsize from time to time in a high performance boat while racing, you are probably not sailing on the edge that is necessary to win. A boat can go under water with out a normal capsize. Racing against Graham in frostbite races in Spindrift 10s, I sailed the boat under the water down wind in strong wind. With the sail of a Spindrift so far forward, the pressure overcame my ballast sitting on the transom and just went under a wave. Graham just looked over at my swamped boat as he sailed by and won the race. In all 50 plus years since 1966, I have never capsized when not racing. Capsize drills, like all drills are intended to make the real thing less serious and allow you to follow your training and do what is necessary without having to think for the first time about how to go about it.
  26. 2 points
    I am with Ken, I do not find this subject a downer at all. I have a lot of miles under me in the CS17 and 20 and have never capsized one unintended. The picture of me sitting on the centerboard of my CS17 at the beginning of this string was taken before I went in the EC. It pays to find out if there will be any issues and to solve them before you commit yourself. Instead of depressing me, it made me feel more comfortable when running hard through the night way offshore in the Gulf and very alone, that if something went wrong I could get myself out of it. My first boat was an 11' moth. I weighed less than 100 # and was totally ignorant. I was lucky that it was totally decked over and was easy to right. I capsized so many times that it became a family joke. With all of that practice I became very good at the art of the capsize and would be over the top and onto the board and back over the rail as the boat came back up, barely getting wet. On a blustery day on the river, a good samaritan saw me capsize a few times and called the police. I do not know how they knew where I lived but when the officer told my mother that I had capsized 5 times, her response was "only 5 times"!
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    I build ugly boats so I can go have fun sailing and so I can see all the beautiful boats that other people build. I'm always grateful that there are people who build beautiful boats for me to look at and I hope they don't mind too much that they have to look at my ugly boat after all their work. Really, though, the prettiest boats out there are yellow... Even if (in my case) they need to be viewed from a distance.
  29. 2 points
    Spindrift 11n onboard... Thank God she fits nicely.
  30. 2 points
    If the Okoume ply is BS 1088 it is probably the most integrally made plywood in the world. But we are using plywood in a way it wasn't intended. Jeff has figured out on his own just how a frame need be built to use plywoods. I would venture that Baltic Birch is the strongest of the 1/2" plywoods being discussed in this forum, because of the wood being the only hardwood of them all. Because of how plywood is made a laminated beam is by far the stronger structure when completed. It would be trial and error to figure what you need in plywood to replace a laminated beam. Or silly over build to be safe.
  31. 2 points
    You had me with it about the sailing over motoring, but to stoop to saying there is even such a thing as too many boats?
  32. 2 points
    Even half a world away PAR will be missed by many. He was a frequent, knowledgeable and generous contributor to the wooden boat section of the Aussie based Woodwork Forums. His willingness to freely share his experience helped many of us make decisions and find a way through difficulties with boat building and repairs. He explained things in a way that was easy to understand and also engaged in the humorous banter that goes on. Of course we never met him in person but in the Forum environment he was good company for many reasons. RIP
  33. 2 points
    These unexpected shocks do take a bit out of us. Paul and I were often on the same wavelength in forum discussions and had personal confabs on topics of mutual interest as well. The boats we designed had enough similar goals but were also enough different to afford a wide array of discussion topics. The forum will be a more bland place without his daily contributions that were always on point and helpful. While his sword could be a bit sharp at times, those who could take the jabs most always benefited from the encounter. We glide along, not thinking that any major disruption is about to happen, when the loss of another forum friend stirs our mental pot. Its a singular occurrence that we could develop such a close relationship with an unseen friend in almost any far away place on our planet. We almost never had such experiences before the internet put others thoughts and ideas so easily into our individual lives. RIP, PAR, we will miss your presence. I will miss your presence.
  34. 2 points
    I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.
  35. 1 point
    Ok Sports Fans; One time as a young Petty Officer I was asked by a crusty old Master Chief, “How would I go about eating an elephant?”. The answer, plainly enough has been incorporated into my ethos and one of my watchwords. Just the same, thank you for saying the encouraging thoughts. Although Im physically alone during this build, I can state with confidence I feel more connected to the collective consciousness of boat builders far and wide. This has been a goal/dream since a cold January day in Holland, Michigan back in 2004. Im at the point where I’m finger scarfing the sheer strake which got me started on the whole Center of Buoyancy question. I must admit I enjoy talking theories and developing scenarios to apply them. Any rate after sleeping on it and chewing on the idea I did a rough calculation which showed there’s not nearly the significant amount to affect buoyancy thus change the stability curve. I estimated 4 cu/ft of volume within the cockpit coaming/sheer strake area. The equation shows a result of 1138.5 Newton’s of force with 256 lbs of displaced fluid. Initially I found this interesting however as Alan stated earlier the water ballast however is by far the largest determinant factor. Further observation is location, location, location. That amount of force is seemingly a good thing but is it in the desired location? As mentioned above, just how would it play out if the boat turns turtle, la saman Allah. I’ve learned in other reading where buoyancy placed incorrectly had negative and fatal results. So as it stands I’m doning respirator, goggles, gloves and headphones, (PPE) and recommencing sanding ops. On a final note I’m finding the random orbital sander used together with the 1/4 sheet oscillating sander does a good job fairing the scarfs. KIWTG. No relation just a salty old Jack.
  36. 1 point
    Ben, The angle between the sheer and the top of the bow transom is approximately 115 deg. That would be the angle of the forward quarter knee (or very close to it). The bevel angle of the stiffener on the bow transom will not be this angle because the bow transom has a lot of rake compared to the stern transom. Measuring the angle at 90 degrees to where the side and bow transom come together (shown with a disk below) is much closer to the given angle of 127 deg. I can see how that would be confusing but that is the angle you would set your bevel gauge to in order to cut a bevel on the end of the bow transom stiffener. Let me know if that make sense. -Alan
  37. 1 point
    I believe you, but then few trailered boats are that light, including the Mk 3s. And the only boat at my marina that was very light was mine. As several have pointed out, ramp angles vary a lot. One of the ramps I used at work was so steep I could submerge my trailer without even my hitch reaching the water's edge. Add LED lights and a good trailer rinse and I would choose submerging so I could float my boat on and off. I don't like abusing my equipment, but if a little extra impact on the trailer makes my life easy then I can live with it.
  38. 1 point
    Reacher: What you need is a polar plot of your boat's performance on all points. For a boat with zero friction at the "interface" (which an iceboat approaches because steel on ice friction is very very low) -- the polar plot approximates a circle. It looks like this: The vector W is the wind velocity and V is the boat velocity (showing speed and direction with respect to the wind vector -- which is straight up the page). The circles represent the boat's performance expressed as a function of its heading and the L/D (lift to drag) ratio of its sail (ignoring the boat's windage). So, an iceboat with a sail having an L/D of 3 (typical) or 5 (high performance) can, on a broad reach make V = 3 X W (typical) or V = 5 X W (high performance). Note that directly downwind the polar plot shows that V = W no matter what the L/D is. The horozontal L/D of a keel-less boat is quite poor, but is vastly improved by a centerboard, especially one with a hydrofoil with high aspect ratio (length to width). For steel on very smooth ice, the "L/D" is probably close to the inverse of its coefficient of friction. The velocity polar plot is affected by these performance figures (in each medium) for the vehicle traveling in this "ancient" interface -- water/air for boats, hard sand or Tarmac for land yachts, Gravity/air for airplanes, air/string/anchor or surfboard (gravity) for kites. Note that iceboats always sail "close hauled" even when on a broad reach -- and, because they are going much faster than the wind, the sail luffs and a gibe is quite tame. The polar plot shown above was in an article that I wrote back in 1974: I don't know the link, but the article is available on the Internet If you had a compass, a good GPS plotter, a steady wind, and a lake with no tide or current, you could easily create your own polar plot and determine the best point to sail in order to fetch any destination in minimum time.
  39. 1 point
    Thanks all for the suggestions and recommendations. I basically followed Amos' suggestion and also, as Alan suggested, put a scrap of fiberglass on the inside of the panel, then planed it flat and then sanded to clean it up.
  40. 1 point
    I have a different approach to these rigging problems. Bear in mind that I originally used a set up similar to Graham's, but Chessie's mizzen mast was (and is) stepped by hand. This required transport crutches forward (for mizzen) and aft (for mizzen & main). The sprits were supported on crutches (like Graham's) over the masts. And I stowed the sails in separate (light-weight & not waterproof) sail bags with the battens installed. For transport, the sail bags were stowed in the cabin. Attaching the sails to the sprits with all the leech reefing lines properly rigged was a hassle. Basically, the rigging [of the reefing lines] had to be done on deck and not until the sails were bent to the masts and sprits. My attempt to ease this problem was to keep the reefing lines and sails on their sprits (properly rigged) -- and then stow ALL [sail, installed battens, rigged reefing lines, and sprit] in a SunBrella canvas zippered bag. The two bags won't fit into the cabin, so I transport them securely lashed to the port-side seat of the cockpit. The mainsail's sprit (in the bag's extension beyond the luff) overhangs the transom by about 18". When bending each sail, I just lay the sail bag on the port-side "walking board" with its zipper up, lift it all (out of its bag) to the cabin roof (sail ties & all), then attach the snotter, topping lift & sheet to the sprit -- and (while standing on the "walking board") attach the halyard and start slipping the sail-slides into their track. The reefing downhauls have been left in place and are now hanked into their cringles. The leech reefing lines have not been moved since the last "takedown," so they just need adjusting. I've only been using this approach since late last season -- so it's not yet smooth out. But so far, I like it. And I've noticed advantages other than not having to mess with the leech reefing lines -- especially reducing the up [into] and down [out of] the cockpit with sprits and sails. Also, when Chessie is stowed on the driveway or in the garage, it is easy to lift each sail bag from the cockpit seat and move them onto their wall-rack in the garage. After Chessie is out of her garage I'll post some photos.
  41. 1 point
    Today was sanding day. I also sealed the interior with one coat of epoxy. It gets one or two more, with more sanding at the end. (Yee-hah to the sanding!)
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Well, "butt joint" has always stopped me for a second, so...
  44. 1 point
    No, the client just like this better so he gets what he wants. It is actually more work but it does have a cool look.
  45. 1 point
    It was cheap and easy. It assembled in a couple of hours, including the strongback and the stringer splices. I won't cover this one because it looks amazing like this. I was going to dope and tissue it like an old model plane. It was about a square foot of 1/8 ply and 3"x36" 1/8 balsa. I'd like to make one of each from the books and also a Nimrod.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    long story short I have 593 miles on my Marissa in 3 months. She is like a duck on water... no issues at all. In that time I've had one "groupie" ghosting me. Finally he had the courage to stop and talk. He is an old time boat builder that just loves the b and b design. He couldn't get over the fuel sipping design ( 14 liters for a full day with a Honda 40.. Full day = 9hrs trolling and travel) but said he was sold the day he watched her punching a 4 foot chop. Long story short I took him for a drive and he is ordering the plans from b and b.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks and thank you for answering all my questions! The mistakes were all mine and anything that works is thanks to you folks and Jeff.
  49. 1 point
    I would, and did use Tung oil. You are never going to refinish your frame unless you re-skin it also. The thought of sanding a frame, and not abrading the lashings is a major deterrent to any other finish IMO. Pettit Z-Spar and McCloskey are the brands I use on the brightwork of my Lapwing, and I have a bit to do.
  50. 1 point
    Ok, Don, like, it's a crutch. Just been epoxy coating and doing some little details. I'll be working on the "small parts" while waiting on epoxy to cure enough to sand. Meanwhile, finally got my transom wedge from Graham. The little blocks on the port side are to screw into to mount the ladder. I can't through bolt it because of the cooler.

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