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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So I spent a week on the Chesapeake. One part of the trip was the MASCF trip to Wye Island. Here is a video of the adventure. If you don't have patience, at least head to the 2:30 mark. Lot's of fun! What a boat. I couldn't be happier. https://youtu.be/KOrlYOOprYw
  2. 2 points
    I hadn't realized what a challenge spaghetti lines in the cockpit were til I started practicing donuts (sailing tight circles around a buoy to improve boat handling skills. Get so you can do tight circles in 15 kts of wind to build your confidence. Still working on it.) I kept getting strangled, or tripped, or glasses torn off by spare lines as I ducked under to grab the far rail. I tried velcro tabs, but switched to this - a couple of washers with a stand-off between. Works better than the velcro for me, but still not completely satisfied. Here's how I'm locking the cabin - I've sleeved the thru-hole with some SS tubing to make it a bit more durable. I really like trailering with the sprits atop the masts - it's quicker to rig and the straps tighten up the masts while we're on the road. As nice as Graham's were, the layout looked like too much work. Mine look like pook, but they work ok and were simpler to make. So, most of you will be horrified by my anchor roller, but I like it. I think it weighs something close to 2 lbs, but that's a mere fraction of the weight of 15' of chain in the anchor locker. It keeps the anchor solidly fixed in place, and I can launch it from the cockpit. I keep it tethered like this underway and trailering. And I've just run a line back to the cockpit that I can use to pop off the tether. I'll 'arm' it before coming in to anchor and cleat the rode off at, say, 50'. Haven't actually used this yet, but from the cockpit I'll be able to ease up to the anchorage and let it go. Peg and I were recently in the San Juans. It was beautiful (altho the arrangement above would have been helpful). But 10' tidal differences are common here. This lagoon actually dried out to the rock you see on the right. We moved the boat before that, but I'd beached Deluge at high tide in the new spot in a direct on-shore 15 kt breeze, and really hadn't sorted out in my head how you do clothesline anchoring. In any case, I was going to need Peg to help me anchor, and nor could I figure out how to get off the beach with her in the boat. Here's the result - water wasn't high enough to re-launch til 5pm the next day. (We had a Great time.) I did eventually get something worked out: But here's how I plan to do it from now on. This may be risky, but seems to me the risk is fairly small for over nights - to use a quick link in place of the standard horseshoe shackle. With it, I can quickly change the configuration between shackling the rode directly to the chain (for regular anchoring), and running the rode thru the link (for clothesline). Regular anchoring: and for clothesline anchoring:
  3. 2 points
    As Deluge emerges from newborn to toddler-dom, it seems like time to update things a bit, with items that I haven't seen elsewhere but that seem to be working for me. She'd been in the water less than a dozen times when the CB pendant broke; an epoxy spur I'd left in the pendant path had shredded the line. I replaced it with one made of dynema after cleaning things up. I had to splice it in place, but fortunately it's really easy to splice the stuff. The challenge is the stopper knot - it's so slippery it's likely to slip off the end. The fibers, it turns out, are quick to absorb epoxy, so the solution is pretty simple. This is just an overhand knot I'd filled with epoxy inside a piece of PVC pipe. This didn't fit, so, gulp, I just ground it down till it did. I'm convinced it's plenty strong enough for the job. In fact, I don't bother with the fancy knot they tie on the internet for soft shackles, I just do this: The little rigging balls make nice 'stopper knots' and it's easier to make your shackle exactly the length you want it to be. I keep adding epoxy to the fur until it can't take any more, and I tie rigging twine at the neck to keep the epoxy from wicking down below the ball. It wasn't long after launch that I'd bashed my transom with the rudder, since I had no rudder stops. I just made a very simple set with starboard and they've worked well. These, or something like them, are now probably on the drawings: I've been impressed by how much the trailer and boat bounce around on Seattle's roads (they're often in terrible shape), and realized that the CB is bouncing around even more, secured only by the pendant (the CB slot doesn't align with my trailer bunks). So I put in a pedestal, capped with starboard, to keep the board from bouncing around when trailering. Graham used a fixed bolt to secure his main mast, and I got a couple of the one-legged nuts he uses for it, but it turned out to be easier for me to bolt the mast from the front. I can manage everything from the foredeck, and for whatever reason, it was easier for me to build. The T bolt was my first shot at silver solder - a mysterious alchemy that had long intimidated me. It was pretty much like regular soldering only higher heat. This is the aluminum receptacle - it's just tapped for the 5/16" bolt, and fixed in place with a couple of screws.
  4. 2 points
    Taking action videos singlehanded is difficult, but here's a stab. I was on the great big pond at East Harbor Campground, Catawba Island, Ohio. Plans to go out on Lake Erie thwarted by headwinds, high winds, surf in channel. Speeds I'm reading are in mph, mostly 6-point-something. Note there's a reef in. Starting from hove-to. What a boat. 20190825_155747.mp4
  5. 2 points
    Justin, Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able to slide the boat around the garage. For cleaning up that epoxy squeeze out, a "mini-grinder" with a heavy grit sandpaper disk like 36 grit is an essential tool at our shop. It will make quick work of the majority of those cured epoxy blobs just be real careful not to gouge the panel and do the final 1/16" with a block of sandpaper or a flat machine sander like a 1/2" sheet sander or random orbit. Looking forward to seeing her folded up!
  6. 2 points
    More mods: Installed a GPS holder using RAM mounts (highly recommend RAM mounts, the swivel balls aren't just plastic; they have an aluminum core, and the GPS mount has little roller bearings that ease insertion/removal of the unit). My awesome wife sewed up an organizer for the cabin bulkhead. It was so useful last time we went sailing we are going to install one on the starboard side as well. As you are sitting in the cockpit with your back against the bulkhead, you can reach in and grab what you need without having to get up and go in the cabin.
  7. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  8. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  9. 1 point
    HAPPY NEW YEAR well it’s a new year and a the beginning of a new decade best wishes to everyone and hope all of your dreams come true and your projects get completed as you want them to turn out .Good health to all and your loved ones. KEEP ON BUILDING , CALM SEAS, AND FAIR WINDS from my family to yours HAPPY NEW YEAR Mark Rendelman Hull #24
  10. 1 point
    Thanks Mark. I have a lot of plans to sail this year. I've been running a business for many years and I think I can take Fridays off this summer if all goes right. And I want to do the EC in 2021. Lot's of excitement. I hope everyone has as much fun as I'm planning!
  11. 1 point
    No worries. Info and links area also at the top of the B&B website as well. www.bandbyachtdesigns.com
  12. 1 point
    OK, so I spent Sunday morning sailing with a bit more breeze than before. I had a friend with some weight to help and never thought I needed to reef, but I decided to practice putting a reef in the main. It went so-so. So please chime in with advice if you have any. I sheeted the mizzen hard. Skeena backed herself quietly. First I raised the rudder and the centerboard like my sea pearl and a it wasn't good. It seemed much better with the centerboard down. The jury is out on having the rudder down. I released the snotter and the halyard, but the main didn't come down very well. I'm not sure why. I just went forward and put the down-haul hook up to the first grommet, which worked fine. I was able to pull the sail down that way. The only trouble was going out on the deck. I opted for not having the rigging complexity of more lines and went for the simple setup. But I was imagining what it might be in real waves. I could poke my head out the hatch. I think maybe I'll rig two additional down-hauls. I've got longer arms and I had not trouble with the aft cleats. For this weeks sail on the Chesapeake I'm going to have to be careful. I will say that the sail shape with this rig is easy to keep. It took way to long and I need to practice.
  13. 1 point
    If I'm seeing this right then there is a king plank under that crack and god only knows what kind of shape that rascal is in. You do what you need to but I would take my router and run a 3/4in wide rabbet 1/4in deep the length of the crack (half the thickness of your fore deck ply if it is 1/2 in). I would then sink a couple of flat bottom holes in the rabbet to the top of the king plank to see if it has been touched and to what degree. If it looks OK then drying and soaking with epoxy would be my next step. 3/4 in batten bedded in epoxy to cover the seam. I would make sure the deck is soundly epoxied and fastened to the king plank. Nails- that's what I like to use -nice 1in long boat nails. If your ply panels aren't solidly attached you may see the epoxy disappear real fast when you soak the seam. Just be ready and keep your eye on things and stop up the leak (s) on the backside if need be. Make sure to fill up all the voids if you have any. Once when I was faced with de-lamination I resorted to drilling a bunch of 1/8in holes and then -using a syringe- I forced unthickened epoxy into the void until it overflowed. Good luck PeterP
  14. 1 point
    I like how you added that piece of rub rail on the inward side of your anchor roller to prevent wear, I like the cabin lock simplicity and I like your sprit saddles. I'm going to copy all of them tonight. Not sure where to get SS tubing. I might have some aluminum around. As for launching from the cockpit......put a longer piece of light line (3/16") right to the anchor shackle. Bring it back to the cockpit. With the way you have those stops you could angle it off to port easily. Put a cleat on the top deck just like the ones to starboard. When you deploy your anchor, this tether line goes right with it. I've been doing that for years, and other than the fact that that line can get pretty grungy in some cases, it has never seemed to interfere with the anchor. When you retrieve the anchor from forward, just grab the small line to bring aft and re-tether. That is some pretty country up there.
  15. 1 point
    When I built my CS17, over 10 years ago now, I got into the habit of keeping a rough tally of boatbuilding hours. At launch it was just under 500 hours but could have been 20% more. This was only time actually building/sanding etc. I didn't include any time for planning/getting materials/sharpening tools etc. Also I knew I wasn't planning on a mirror finish. It was my 5th build so I was practiced. I planned the timing of the build to maximize efficiency in my small garage (only 19 ft long and not so wide) by building all the small stuff first - rudder /tiller/centreboard/masts etc. If you want a mirror finish then add hundreds more hours. 10 years down the track with a few dings and paint touch ups I'm glad I didn't bother. Ps No kits back then. HTH Cheers Peter HK
  16. 1 point
    I get insomnia sometimes. The worst thing to do is look at your phone. But last night I did. I'd posted an edited video of my first sail on Skeena with Helen on FB in a group called "Pocket Yachts and trailer sailors". The post got a lot of responses, but the last one was "Why did you decide to use B and B Yacht Design?" Talk about not sleeping. My mind was racing as to the path that led me to "Skeena". I decided to write it down while fresh in my head. Let's start with my first introduction to B & B. I always watch the Everglades Challenge Spot tracker map during the event. I think a lot of adventure sailors are aware of this race. My wife always says "Watching the Dots again?" It's a goal of mine to enter someday. Obviously the Core Sound series of boats has done really well there. We all know that. Meanwhile, I've had a cat ketch rigged Sea Pearl since 2007 and while I love the boat, it's lack or recover-ability in a knock down makes me uncomfortable in a race like that. I pick my weather window with local sailing trips and in a long race like that you lose that control. That said, I've never swamped her or even come close and I've sailed her in some tough conditions. But I know being sleep deprived makes you do dumb things. So I rooted on the other Sea Pearls in the race (yes there were some epic capsizes) and the Core Sounds because of the rig. In 2010 I went to the MASCF in St Michaels , MD. If you haven't gone, you should. There is a gunk-holing event out to Wye Island and the first year I did it in my Sea Pearl. A Core Sound 20 joined us. I believe the builder was named Brett. He was throwing crab pots while sailing and I remember marveling that that was possible, both that he had the room to store them and the stability. I didn't get a close look at his boat thought. At the actual festival I studied other Core Sounds and decided that they looked like too much work. I did catch the boat building bug and ironically picked a Spindrift 11N as my first build. I thought this was a good "started project" to see if boat building was for me. She turned out to be fun to build (the plans were just the right kind of complete, not paint by number, but everything you need) and speedy to sail and then I was back to thinking about a replacement for Wildcat, my SP21. I'd started doing more adventure sailing. I'd joined a bunch of folks that I met at the MASCF and we sailed around the Chesapeake, 1000 Islands in NY, a trip to Maine and I was also doing a lot of solo trips. I got to thinking how nice a cabin would be, mostly so I'd have dry storage and be able to stay out longer. But the boats I looked at mostly had deep drafts (If it draws more than a foot it was rejected) or had complicated rigs that took a long time to rig (30 minutes or more - rejected) or didn't look easy to single-hand (my experience favored rigs with a mizzen) or were heavy (over 1000# rejected. Towing heavy stuff isn't fun, sucks gas and is scary) or was too big to build in my basement or too high fit in my garage. Boats I considered were the Bolger Chebbaco (no data on how well they sail and no support from current plan supplier), Norwalk island Sharpie (I still think she is pretty, but you could only buy an expensive kit), Welsford "Sweet Pea" and a few others. But nothing was just right. And then one day while I was at work Graham posted a 3-D rendering of what he and Alan had been working on. I was immediately smitten. It checked every box. The right rig, shallow draft, big self bailing cockpit, lots of storage, seaworthy, fast. And while I favor a more traditional look I though she was attractive enough. I especially liked the full width cabin. The rest is chronicled well in this thread, but I couldn't be happier. Now that I've sailed her a bit I'm even more convinced I picked the right design. I had some personal misfortunes (lost my Dad, father in law, and business partner of 27 years) while building that slowed things a lot. And there are a few things that were a bit under developed in the kit (hatch, motor mount) but the support has been excellent both here on the forum and from Graham and Alan. I can't imagine how much more difficult and less fun things would have been without this community. I made plenty of mistakes and there are a few things I'd do different if I did it all over again, but I'll link this to the FB question and consider it answered.
  17. 1 point
    Put a floating tenon in the joint. Nice and fat - 1/2" by 2" +. Epoxied in. PeterP
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, guys -- for good advice. There's no hurry, especially while getting ready to sell Chessie. At the MessAbout I'll try to sail a number of small sailers. You all have just given me an idea. My daughter, Suzie, has the Penobscot 14 (a plywood lapstrake w/a lug rig, designed by Arch Davis) that I built about 10 years ago. It also has 2 pairs of beautiful oars that I made out of Sitka spruce. It sits on an aluminum Trailerx . I know she doesn't use it much. It's a little heavy, but she sails really nice. I'm sure she'd let me have it back. I'd have to build another tiller for it -- the designed tiller doesn't tilt up. So when you come about, you have to practically "walk around" the end of the tiller in order to move to windward. You guys got me thinking an all 'nother way.
  19. 1 point
    Youtube is the best. I'm finally able to produce on my phone which really makes it possible for me saving lots of time.
  20. 1 point
    Graham made it back to the shop last night around 11pm. Total mileage from spot track is 126 nautical miles. I guess we will make him go do another 4 so he gets to 130.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Steve, for the kind words. You're right -- not an easy decision. But for some time I've been concerned about some near misses that should've been avoided. Better to cool it now than risk an accident and injury or worse. My extended family is "more than happy" with the downsizing plan. I'll still be doing some solo sailing -- but in cool weather and not-so-distant venues. I'm still planning to sail alongside Skeena at the MASCF in October and maybe at the Messabout. I'll probably get a lot more sailing with the 10' Spindrift that I'll build this off season. Let your friends know that a fully equipped very good sailboat is available. A good offer from a quality buyer would be accepted even ahead of schedule.
  22. 1 point
    My two bits. 1. Fear factor:. Worry about am I capable to build this. People at my sailing club are very surprised at how light the kayak is. And we do have people who build their own boats there. But sailing is also having it's challenges in attracting new people, and this has been going on for a few decades. 2. Space: Today's new houses are very cramped for space, both house and garage. I can build a 17 foot kayak but it would be very cramped. The Ravenswood is about as big as I would want to get. 3. Material: I was able to order the cedar strips, so basically I wound up with a complete kit that only needed some scarfs glued. Even then I am lucky to have a very long hallway coming in off the front door. 4. Independence: I am perfectly happy to do something myself that is new. I will research the bejezers out of something, which is why I purchased the kit from Kudzu instead of going with stitch and glue (Canadian winters do not agree with epoxy and I don't have a heated workspace) and I am not OCD enough to do cedar strip. And I know that I make mistakes the first time and will work through them. Every time I look at woodworking or boat building classes they are always sold out. There is a lot of comfort in having an instructor available to answer questions and provide guidance. 5. Attention span: Don't really agree with this one. I have been a cub/scout leader and they do have the ability to do so. However a 2 hour meeting once a week would not make a kayak. Don't have the space to store the in transition kayak. If I can get an 11 year old to cut, lash, and stitch over a one month period to make a kayak most kids should be able to do so. What might be lacking is the adult who is willing and able to put the time in. Possible target audience: Junior high and high school construction classes. Here in Canada that would be Grade 7 through 12. Several classes a week, have the space and the tools. KJ Lummis
  23. 1 point
    I launched Two Bits today, and it was great. I got to row her, and motor her. The winds were gusting over 20, so I chickened out on the sailing bit. The Quick Connect hardware worked great. I can’t wait to sail her, but that will probably have to wait a day or two. This forum doesn’t like the taste of my videos. You’ll find them on Facebook today, and eventually on YouTube. But here are some photos.
  24. 1 point
    Have made some progress lately on internal members, centerboard, and centerboard trunk. Don't have the internal structures glued-in yet, but I finished the centerboard trunk piece today so I think that will come soon! Have coated both the inside of the centerboard trunk, plus the entire centerboard, with graphite + epoxy mixture to try and minimize friction / binding in the rotation of the board. It starts off very shiny and the sands down to dull grey.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Outstanding. Great construction of a great design. Very happy for you and B&B.
  27. 1 point
    The curves you put in the aft end of the coamings look great; it really compliments the lines of the boat. I wouldn't be surprised if future builders duplicate them.
  28. 1 point
    I've tested four coatings that I had in my paint cabinet from various projects. Ace polyurethane, Minwax polyurethane, Minwax spar urethane (which I think is another term for polyurethane), and Man O' War marine spar varnish. All the coatings worked with the 9 oz material. I'm going to go with the Man O' War varnish, my paint store mentioned that the spar varnish will be more flexible than a interior/exterior polyurethane. So it could be that Zar and Coelan are maybe the only two coatings not compatible with the 9 oz material.
  29. 1 point
    Ok Sports Fans; One time as a young Petty Officer I was asked by a crusty old Master Chief, “How would I go about eating an elephant?”. The answer, plainly enough has been incorporated into my ethos and one of my watchwords. Just the same, thank you for saying the encouraging thoughts. Although Im physically alone during this build, I can state with confidence I feel more connected to the collective consciousness of boat builders far and wide. This has been a goal/dream since a cold January day in Holland, Michigan back in 2004. Im at the point where I’m finger scarfing the sheer strake which got me started on the whole Center of Buoyancy question. I must admit I enjoy talking theories and developing scenarios to apply them. Any rate after sleeping on it and chewing on the idea I did a rough calculation which showed there’s not nearly the significant amount to affect buoyancy thus change the stability curve. I estimated 4 cu/ft of volume within the cockpit coaming/sheer strake area. The equation shows a result of 1138.5 Newton’s of force with 256 lbs of displaced fluid. Initially I found this interesting however as Alan stated earlier the water ballast however is by far the largest determinant factor. Further observation is location, location, location. That amount of force is seemingly a good thing but is it in the desired location? As mentioned above, just how would it play out if the boat turns turtle, la saman Allah. I’ve learned in other reading where buoyancy placed incorrectly had negative and fatal results. So as it stands I’m doning respirator, goggles, gloves and headphones, (PPE) and recommencing sanding ops. On a final note I’m finding the random orbital sander used together with the 1/4 sheet oscillating sander does a good job fairing the scarfs. KIWTG. No relation just a salty old Jack.
  30. 1 point
    That is fair. And remember, I've sailed a Sea Pearl 21 for 12 years without capsizing and there isn't any chance of recovery if I go over. I'm not worried.
  31. 1 point
    I repeated myself a little bit but it's worth repeating since this is an area that you will not be able to ever work on again without much difficulty!
  32. 1 point
    Ben, The angle between the sheer and the top of the bow transom is approximately 115 deg. That would be the angle of the forward quarter knee (or very close to it). The bevel angle of the stiffener on the bow transom will not be this angle because the bow transom has a lot of rake compared to the stern transom. Measuring the angle at 90 degrees to where the side and bow transom come together (shown with a disk below) is much closer to the given angle of 127 deg. I can see how that would be confusing but that is the angle you would set your bevel gauge to in order to cut a bevel on the end of the bow transom stiffener. Let me know if that make sense. -Alan
  33. 1 point
    Both Amos and I used the same swim ladder in our 20.3s. Pics below.I did see that Doug Cameron used the ladder you are showing, but I have a rope ladder on my sea pearl and it is not easy to use even for kids. The downside to the reverse transoms is a wedge needs to be made. Amos made a nice one out of wood and my son 3d printed mine.
  34. 1 point
    Worthy considerations Amos. Though built very differently, the mold for a Lapwing becomes part of the boat, bulkheads and inboard sides of side seat/tanks. One of the bulkheads gets a major portion of it cut out, but the same issue of deforming under strain during construction exists. I cut out the corners of the holes with hole saw blades of appropriate diameter before, so that I had easy straight cuts for after. I calculated my jigsaw would fit for doing these straight sections.
  35. 1 point
    We were only able to use the spinnaker on the last bit of the run around the everglades when the wind turned more west. We cant use it dead down wind being an assymetrical spinnaker but it gained us 1-1.5 knots vmg downwind in about 10 knots of breeze i would guess. So maybe 5.5 knots wing on wing vs 6-6.5 vmg with it sailing maybe 20 ir 25 deg off ddw. You lose speed in the gybes though and the Highlander would catch back up during gybes since we were being very careful not too flip or get lines hung up. As the wind picked up and the boat jumped up on plane with the spinnaker the gains are substantially more i think we say 9.5knots a few times when we let her heat up but it was speed with little vmg gain.
  36. 1 point
    Hi Mark, I have a reversible pump used by ski boats to pump water in/out of the ballast tank. I have a bronze thru hull in the aft end of the center board trunk and the pump mounted in the port cockpit locker. I also have some plumbing so I can use the pump to clean fish and wash mud out of the cockpit. I have a 3/4 inch 3 way valve that I can direct the flow of the pump to the ballast tank or the wash down hose. If you use a electric pump I seriously suggest mounting it in a rubber mounts. The first year we went to the Messabout you could hear our pump all over the place! Since mounted it in some rubber mounts and still loud doesn’t howl! I have a 24 series AMG battery with 22 watts of solar cell and while now much, haven’t charged battery in several years.
  37. 1 point
    State Champ, Boys Combined Nordic Champ, Fastest leg of State Champ Relay Team, and his HS won the boys team title. Now I can get back to boats......
  38. 1 point
    Well, after 18 months of indecision and general waffling, Southern Express is luxuriously lounging on her new aluminum frame trailer.
  39. 1 point
    Foam is required here, too. I leave generous sized holes through the bulkheads that separate compartments, limber holes at the bottom corners, and at least one hatch open to the outside. A screw out plastic hatch is fine. It's also good to have a transom drain that any water can drain out of. I always keep my boats on trailers, so I can remove the transom drain plug and open the hatch(s). Anything to get air flow. The USCG requires "upright and level" flotation. Placing all of the foam spread across the bottom tends to make the boat unstable when it is flooded. It is prone to being capsizes in the waves. I built fiberglass boats for a living and had to have them tested to be sure that they complied with the flotation standards. I found that I needed to leave a section down the middle of the boat without flotation. There was plenty of room left on either side for the amount of foam required to meet the standards. A benefit of this was that it left the area most prone to water penetration free of foam that would otherwise block drainage and ventilation. It's also good to add foam under the deck to help with upright flotation if you have room for it. A book could be written on this subject, but I think this gets the idea across.
  40. 1 point
    The first layer of filler
  41. 1 point
    Well, "butt joint" has always stopped me for a second, so...
  42. 1 point
    The ply deck was painted on its undersurface with epoxy and glued to the stringers, foam and chine with thickened epoxy. It was fastened with raptor staples. If you haven't used them, they are fast and much cheaper than bronze screws. They are a little quirky, though. Bilge compartments painted and water tank installed. I wanted space in the transom for storage and a live well/fishbox so I modified the aft bulkhead that I had previously removed.
  43. 1 point
    Years ago, in a "previous life", back in the 70s, I lived a mobile home on a couple of acres in Trenton, Florida. There was a a low spot next to my trailer. When it rained it would hold water for a couple of days. I would take a dinghy or canoe to the puddle and happily paddle or row around. I'd try to sail, but there wasn't enough depth for the dagger board. (I built dinks, canoes, and little fishing boats outa fiberglass, that I'd sell to boat dealers back then.) Never slept aboard, though.
  44. 1 point
    Just back from a week at the island place. Of course, Saturday I mostly just hauled gear to the cabin - no backpacks yet on the wife's collarbone so I had to carry 10 days' worth of supplies (about 240 beers + whatever the wife is going to drink, plus I think there was some food) up the steep path to my place. Sunday I went looking for some timber. Look straight enough? And so the axe-work begins. This looks dangerous but I'm actually just skimming the axe along the surface, not swinging it. Then scraping it with the edge: If you're handy with an axe you can cut stuff pretty precisely. Eventually I switched to a plane. Here you can see that I am basically dependent on cordless tools to do any real boatbuilding work at all. Also careful observers will note that the sprit is nearly finished in this pic and that was the last piece to build. I think my expression about covers my combined sense of satisfaction and fatigue So off I went! She really moves. Easy handling even with minimal wind. Points fairly well into the wind, considering. Absolutely HAULS downwind. Rows like a dream. Really happy she turned out as well as she did. Never want to build in my apartment again.
  45. 1 point
    Well it got wet today, only took me 6 months to do it LOL. Pics are not great as they were taken from the deck by my step mom on her phone but the general idea is there. Boat ran very well in my mind, gets a little slippery in the turn but i think that might be due to the fact that right now it has a 13" prop on it for the maiden voyage. not very good numbers due to tiny prop. 3200 rpm it planned out at 18 knots. 4000 rpm 21knots and 5200 30knots. Now i have run it for 4 or 5 hrs i will go to the motor riggers with those numbers and come back with a proper prop and will get some far better numbers i think. All in all was fun and the boat ran great
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Took the opportunity of retirement to build a Vardo kayak. The process thus far has been a great experience with the only difficulty obtaining decent western red cedar for the stringers. I ended up splicing clear pieces together to meet my needs. I used marine spar varnish to preserve the hull. The fabric is nylon and I used a powdered pigment to obtain the orange color. Today I'll finish the deck and I'm thinking about adding some west coast native American Indian art work to the finished boat. .
  48. 1 point
    I tend to wait until the epoxy is green, but cured, the "easy to cut" stage, then I use a (do I need to say SHARP?) chisel along the selvedges. The little bump/rolls slice right off, and are quite simple to fair in afterward. The sander sounds a treat, too. I absolutely second the filler feathered over the level change. I have also used plastic sheet as a sort of peel ply to smooth faired areas with a squeegee. It allows you to see where the fairing compound is being smoodged, and can leave a very smooth, fair surface. I used the method to attach the skeg on my orange boat. They were hearty fillets with glass over, and they came out smooth with minimal work after because I used fairing compound under plastic sheet to fair it all in. Peace, Robert
  49. 1 point
    I have a suzuki DF60A (104kg) on my Marissa ( Piranha ) which is build heavier than the original plans because of some alterations I did . With 2 people on board, an auxiliary 22kg outboard hanging at transom and a 15" prop she gave 30.2 knots on gps at 6200 rpm. These boats are super efficient thanks to Graham designs ! In approximately a total of 1 hour at 5000 - 5500 rpm and an other 3 hours at 1500 - 2500 rpm (5 to 7 knots fishing for albacore ) she just burn 22 liters of fuel !!
  50. 1 point
    Not even worth keeping then, get a new one!

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