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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So, this is what I’ve been doing of late. It’s a digital drawing with “colored pencils”. Sorry for taking the initiative to draw it without asking, but here it is. Peace, Robert
  2. 4 points
    I think I have found a novel way to self quarantine oneself.......mention to your friends that you are doing some sanding and getting ready to lay fiberglass. All the sidewalk engineers have disappeared😃
  3. 4 points
    Here is the current photos of the Mathew Flinders, we have been working intermittently for about 3 weeks, all the bulkheads are fileted and taped into place, the head bulkheads are just sitting in place (well almost in place!). A very gentlemanly way to build a boat, standing on the outside reaching in! The “rollbar” is part of the building jig, the inner skin of the cabin will sit on top of the jig, so at 6’3” I have an incredible amount of headroom. To show scale, Carol is standing in the galley.
  4. 3 points
    You know it occurs to me that I never gave a good update on this thread, but the little Catspaw has gotten a TON of use. I ended up moving to my summer cabin last year, which is on a tiny island with no roads or even docks. Every morning for about six months I'd walk down to the beach, pick up the Catspaw and carry it to the edge of the water, row out to my boat and leave the Catspaw on the hook, take the boat across to the big island and go to work, and every evening I'd come home and row back in. I did it in storms, in the dark, tired, injured, hung over, you name it. The boat held up at least as well as the owner. It took a little damage in rough weather one morning - the big boat was bucking around like a rodeo bull and the flare of the bow came down on the cockpit coaming, snapping off a section. But I think that was 5000 pounds of fiberglass getting dropped around 4 feet onto the bow of the catspaw; I can't complain about a little cosmetic damage. I sailed it a lot when I wasn't working and it goes pretty well, considering it's a little eight foot pram. And it keeps on absorbing whatever I throw at it: I left it on the hook for a month because I got busy with some projects here and couldn't get back to my summer place as planned until a few days ago...a handful of barnacles had adhered to the graphite bottom, as depicted below. I scraped them off and let the shore crabs deal with the mess. It's now also officially a three-person craft, as it turns out that spending six months with my wife at a cabin with no electricity requires alternative forms of entertainment. In fact we resorted to this method of staying occupied at the beginning of April so by the time we left, I was trusting the Catspaw to transport a woman whose centre of balance had shifted substantially...one could almost say that with only about 10 weeks to go before requiring an extra seat in the boat, she had become rather unbalanced. The Catspaw, on the other hand, remained quite stable. I would say its most demanding application was shuttling her back and forth on our last trip as a childless couple...she was 10 days out but wanted to get on the water, so we went back to the cabin for a few days and did a bit of trolling for winter springs. By that point she was so off-balance that loading her off the big boat and into the dinghy took about two minutes and I wished I had a small crane, although in case she reads this I'll point out that it would only have been for convenience and it could have been a crane with a very low working load limit, although of course I would deny knowing exactly what the load would have been. Anyway it has had an enormous amount of use (the boat, not the wife) and I still get compliments on it (also the boat although the wife is pretty good also). I'm hard on gear but the Catspaw is holding up well and I would recommend the design to anyone who wants a tough little dinghy with a lot of carrying capacity. And it does work well as a three-person boat. Cheers, Geordie
  5. 3 points
    I still have painting to do, but "Mo-Bear" tasted water today:
  6. 3 points
    Polysulphides are the compounds to avoid when bedding plastics. Do not use 3m 101 or BoatLife Lifecaulk. They are great products, but not for plastic. I used Sikaflex 291-LOT. I have no doubt that silicone will do the job well, but the down side of the product has been pointed out.
  7. 3 points
    OK, fine, you can have the weekend off to get married. Just don't let it interfere with boat work too much.
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    Mini 6.5s are required to paint their rudders and canting keel bright orange for easy spotting when capsized. Something to consider if you are sailing off shore or in races like the Everglades Challenge.
  10. 3 points
    The Coast Guard has suspended their search for SailorMan, Jim Slauson. Even as the other participants celebrate their completion of the course it is impossible to forget this one that did not make it. Congratulations to the finishers and God Bless Jim Slauson and his family. Safety was one of the features of BandB boats that appealed to me. I think it is one of their strong suites. The capsize camps and development of mast head floats have demonstrated a continued commitment to safety at sea. However no matter how safe your vessel there is going to be a certain amount of risk involved. The skill and decisions of the crew have a huge impact on vessel safety, but the power of the sea can overwhelm even the wisest and most skilled mariner and founder the best boat. I have for the last few years carried a PLB in the center pocket of my PFD. To activate it I would have to remove it from the pocket, deploy the antenna and depress the proper button. There is a power and a test button of similar size located close together. I can accomplish this pretty easily on dry land, when I am well rested, during daylight hours so I can review the instructions on the back. However..... There is beauty and a unique satisfaction in going to sea in a boat you have made. Let us be as safe as we can and look after each other and cherish those wonderful hours on the water.
  11. 3 points
    I captured this photo from the Watertribes Facebook page. That is Alan dragging Southern Skimmer out from Chokoloskee as Dawn Patrol is coming in. Must be some wind out there judging by the reefs set in the sails.
  12. 3 points
    About time to update the Mather Flinders build. It has been an easy build so far, a lot of the build is done from the floor, not climbing in and out of the boat. The kit is incredibly accurate, I have used a block plane to fit a few panels but generally it all fits perfectly. The interior panels all have their first 2 coats of epoxy, and I have a date with my sanders after this year’s Messabout for another coat rolled on. Most of the cleats, carlins, and inwales are either installed or are ready to install. All the “horizontal “ surfaces are laying in place but not glued yet. All the plumbing is roughed in and conduit is dry fit for wiring stuff. Picking up a bunch if stuff at this year’s Messabout but there is enough stuff installed to get a feel of the cabin size, and it is “just right”. Just realized some of the photos are several weeks of “progress “ back, hope to be at the 2020 Messabout!
  13. 3 points
    20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4 Okay, the trip begins. I'm in Spring Lake, Michigan, near my daughter's. Stayed out on the boat two nights, once in a corner of the lake and once under the bridge and up the bayou. Couldn't resist sailing under the bridge when I had a fair wind.... 20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4
  14. 2 points
    Week 10 — Day 47 & 48: It’s transforming Into a Sailboat Back at the building of Norma T. In these two days I was able to finish the main mast tabernacle and it’s installation as well as finishing the mizzen mast step/tube installation. The angles seem to be at least close. When dry-fitting the mizzen, it looked good. The level showed continuity, there was a good comparison of high/low measurements between masts, and, from a distance, they appeared parallel. So, I glued things in place. The photos I took later look as though the mizzen is a bit more perpendicular than the main. I’m not sure if that’s the case or if it’s an effect of my camera lens (sure, blame things on the camera.). It’s sort of like when I got everything with the tabernacle set and lining up well with the pins... and after installing it, I still needed to do some grinding to make the pins fit through the mast as intended before I could successfully step the main mast. Theory and reality... not always exactly the same. The rudder and centerboard are assembled and installed into the boat. With that, I have begun rigging of the boat (well, one piece of rigging... for the rudder downhaul.) I can foresee a lot of trips to Franks, a great old-fashioned hardware store in town that has a very full selection of individual stainless steel screws, bolts, etc. Tomorrow, I might try adding the planned 2 inch white stripe just above the water line. We shall see how the day unfolds.
  15. 2 points
    @Pete McCrary Thank you for posting your owners manual! Wow. Very organized and detailed. I've already picked up a few tricks that I can try on my Core Sound 20 Mk 2.
  16. 2 points
    Page 136 of "the book" covers bonding fasteners and resin bushing holes. https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf An excellent practice for all hardware on a wood boat. If all bolts and screws are drilled, filled, and drilled then all the better for preventing water from getting to the wood and causing swelling which will crack an epoxy joint in no time. Especially watch out for fasteners into long pieces of solid wood such as the transom beam. For bedding compound I use butyl rubber and make a little doughnut of it around the washer of my fastener or on the contact pad of the piece of hardware. It oozes out nicely, seals the joint and does not harden. Same stuff they used to install windows in RVs. This much would least you for years and years. Store it in a plastic bag because it does dry out a little after the first year or so (like play dough). https://www.amazon.com/White-Butyl-Tape-Mobile-Single/dp/B07BJLHH24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1593041102&sr=8-5 They also make a butyl rubber caulk which is more pasty for bedding things with more surface area where the tape which is more or a soft pliable rubber would be too stiff to be squeezed by the fasteners. So for something like the Eye bolt I'd use butyl rubber or nothing because it would only leak into the anchor well or onto the deck so it doesn't really need to be watertight. Also be very careful when installing hardware not to crank down mindlessly on the nut our you will simply crush the wood and and thus crack the epoxy seal. I try to never use power drivers to install fasteners to the final tightness because it's so easy to over torque them.
  17. 2 points
    You should see Graham Shortly. Here is a link to his spot Tracker. http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0rHV7uRsIrA70G3AZ0dslOpt3fiTW79jj
  18. 2 points
    We have the same 2.5 Suzuki on our CS20.3, some days it will start with 1/2 pull, some days 156 pulls are required..... I try to do absolutely the same procedure, but with varying results. I currently have a chicken bone tied to the tiller. After it starts it runs beautifully, just those first few revolutions.
  19. 2 points
    I launched out of Potters Marina several years ago and explored Rose Bay and Judith Island. It is a beautiful area and I have wanted to go back. I would love to join you but I am not sure if I can be ready. I am doing some repainting.
  20. 2 points
    The 5.80 is a single handed, or double handed, ocean racing machine. Everything about the design was aimed at making a seaworthy, tiny, fast boat. Everything else was compromised to get to this. The basic concept was taken from the Mini 6.5. It is a poor design for cruising. By the time you store the sails and other racing and safety gear down below there is no room for any amenities. They don't even have berths. Solo 6.5 racers sleep in the cockpit for 15 minutes at most, or maybe duck below for their 15 minute nap on top of a sail bag stowed to weather. They eat back packing food using portable backpacking stoves to boil the water. They are planing hulls, and designed to be and stay super light weight. As Graham has mentioned, the mechanism for a drop keel would be outrageous to build, or have made. It would be very heavy and expensive. The rig is so tall, that only the bulb at the end of a very deep keel would keep it upright. By the time enough other compromises would be made to accommodate anything else but a deep bulb it would be a completely different boat. It would probably end up a lot like a Mk 3. Damned because it's all related.
  21. 2 points
    This stage is where you can say the job is "half" done!
  22. 2 points
    Don, You caught us, we prototyped the new version but then dropped the ball a bit on it and I haven't got the final version in kit form. We have a few big jobs on the list this month but its on our short list along with finishing those windvane plans.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Hello again I have been busy most everyday out in the boat shop, after putting in the chain locker floor I turned my attention to putting in the bunk compartment bulkheads to me this was quite a chore, but got it done in several days. While the bulkheads cured I would work on the ballast tank. I will be using two bait tank live well pumps to fill and empty the ballast tank But since these pumps are not self priming the fill pump will be mounted directly in the ballast tank as far away from the access port as practical to be able reach it for service , the wires will exit through a small hole then sealed with silicone the pump to empty the tank will be located in one of the storage compartments and using bulkhead fittings to enter the tank. The tanks have been Coated with two coats of devthane 379. While all other parts were curing I built the locker lids an Frameworks .when the paint dries the cockpit floor supports will go in as always stay safe and keep on building mark
  25. 2 points
    I hook my foot under the seat but a strap as Alan suggests would be an improvement. The thing I really miss is a comfortable well cushioned seat on the rail.
  26. 2 points
    A friend of mine in Northern Germany is building the boat linked to below. He is going with a torquedo as well. If you dig deep into his blog you'll the very nifty way he is making it retractable. https://janvonderbank.wordpress.com/eine-seite/?fbclid=IwAR3GhP5emTx7t5NGetCmOkSsKWqNIl0EU9DmISL9TuEmYjp4wLFYdfRU2Rc
  27. 2 points
    The Boomkin.......yeah, that is probably not going to work with this type of Mount unless you made it one piece and tied in good to the underside of the seat tops. I think that would be doable, but not like Gaham's. I think in some ways that would be just fine. Ad having that come in to port would give you something more to hold onto climbing the ladder. I ruled out a boomkin just because of boat length. As far as a windvane, I am probably not going down that road either. Skeena steered herself for 51 minutes on one tack in my trip to the Chesapeake with just a few minor course corrections. I think she's a bit too balanced for sheet to tiller steering, but I may fool with that. I had that sorted out pretty well on my Sea Pearl, but that was over 12 years of pondering perpetual motion.
  28. 2 points
    Here is a test slide Graham just made. Destructive testing to follow.
  29. 2 points
    Regarding the knee separating from the transom. I had an old Thompson 15 lapstrake outboard with a 30 hp motor that had the same condition. That knee was only held by screws, no epoxy. I relocated the failing screw into good wood, used thickened epoxy in the joint, and everything was still holding together when I sold the boat 5 years later. My inclination would be do a similar fix on your boat. Run the saw blade through only where the joint has separated to clean up the surfaces. Then shim/epoxy, or just epoxy, and get a good screw in place. I would leave the rest of the knee untouched because it is holding.
  30. 2 points
    The reason I ask these questions isn't because I need, or necessarily even want an answer. They are questions I ask of myself to help in making such decisions. My only recommendation now that you have answered is to use your answer to help you come to a conclusion. If a balanced sailing rig is secondary, and it was for me, I still could not live with anything except the best available rig. No matter how seldom I sail, it must be well, or my rendition of well, what ever that is. You have to weigh your requirements against the resources available and the costs of them. Now that I have completely confused you, good luck deciding 😉
  31. 2 points
    I built my Spindrift 10n to fit in a very small space in my garage. It's set up with a modern Laser rig with controls for outhaul, cunningham, main sheet, etc right where they would be on a Laser. My benches are optimized to be ideal for both sailing and rowing (and motoring too!) I have a hiking strap in the sole and it handles great with two people in a breeze. I designed a modified version of the benches that is easily removable and maintains the look of a continuous line from bow to stern. The aft benches are also symmetrical in the sense that either bench will fit on either side in whatever orientation you place it. It's a little hard to explain but makes rigging fast and easy. I also designed the center rowing bench to perfectly fit in the stern when sailing. It's a very small detail but makes a difference when you have so little space to work with. The one thing i would (and will) change is the forward benches. Right now they are removable but I plan enclosing them so they have more side flotation when you capsize. The forward flotation chamber is just too small to keep the most of hull out of the water, and when you right the boat is scoops up a lot of water and swamps the boat. In choppy conditions it's too much to remove even with a good sized bucket. The Spindrift is a great boat and a lot of fun to build.
  32. 2 points
    Many thanks for the link to the video. We are nearing that point, and a video is worth 1000 words. I think we will glass the deck before tackling the hull, to get the glassing mojo warmed up. Currently finishing making drawers and some storage ideas for the laserett, and the ever glamorous rebuilding the head pump. Graham and I discussed an end plate for the rudder so I layed up a 1 inch thick fiberglass foot for the rudder with the intent controlling the hi an lo pressure water flow, like the current trend of winglets on airplanes. Cabin top is nearing complete, insulated deck and cabin “should “ help with condensation. I keep delaying applying primer in the cabin, want to make durn sure all my ducks are in order before I start that phase.
  33. 2 points
    I went with the Spindrift 9N and have rowed it with 4 adults, (none of us especially large) and a few items. I followed the plans exactly and included the sailing rig. I loved sailing it around the harbors we visited with a cold one in hand and just enjoying the view. It tows well too. I can't imagine 40 hours for a sailing version, and I am an experienced marine carpenter. I have no advice on using composites. I completely covered the gunwales in fendering, expensive, but worth it when a tender. I don't understand why one would think a Catspaw would be easier to build. It would carry a slightly larger load per foot, but sacrifice rowing and sailing ease in the process. Both are viable choices. You are definitely on the right track and your parameters are sound. My last comment concerns building. Enjoy the build as much as you think you will enjoy using it.
  34. 2 points
    I have stated this many times that I prefer to leave my lockers unpainted. I like the look of the natural color and enjoy it when I open them. If there if any deterioration going on with the wood I will see it immediately rather than being masked by the paint, not to mention that it is one less job to do. I have never noticed that it is too dark to find my stuff. This is a subject where there are no right or wrong answers.
  35. 2 points
    I have no worries about through hulls. But what my issue here is running wire to the stern to mount a transducer and it's vulnerability in the kind of shallow water sailing and trailering I intend to do. Same with a through hull one. In the transducer instructions they mention using petroleum jelly for a test and I'm going to hold off to gluing it until I get a chance to test it. first. We had a warm spell but it didn't correspond with any free time so it might be late April until we know. I'm about to put the boat down in my barn for hibernation. My next project is to fire up my late mom's (Suzy J) sewing machine and learn how to sew. She was an amazing seamstress and the machine I inherited is a beast made by Bernina. She made drapes and upholstered furniture and she occasionally made me various cushions and other stuff. I wish she was here to help, but in some ways she is.......
  36. 2 points
    When you upload an image, you can later insert it between text: By positioning your cursor where you want to insert the image and then clicking the image. Here's a short video showing it: http://screenshot.ontrapedia.com/public/fhagan/194f95df-cbe6-412d-a7a2-2002d9cb37431574174805.mp4
  37. 2 points
    Any optimism of getting another sail is officially over. So I'm working on a few details. I had just laid my bunk storage lids under the cushions, but that has proven unacceptable. They mostly stayed in place, but not always. I was looking for an alternative to using piano hinge, but I couldn't figure anything else, so last night I cut piano hinge into suitable lengths and ground the sharp corners with a pedestal grinder. I bought some 1/4" long SS screws off Amazon because out local hardware store only carried 3/8 and even though I've spent a fortune weren't too keen on special ordering for me. Ever since they became and ACE hardware store it's been straight downhill. Oh well. Tonight I'll screw them all down. I got the depth sounder to install and I need to show you all the nice little drawer I put in under the companionway that holds my GPS and assorted stuff I need easy access too. Now, if Jay is reading this, I need more info on your two-way pump. You texted me pics of the install about 4 years ago which I somehow lost. I am sort of a Luddite, but I've conceded a pump would be nice for filling/un-filling the ballast tank.
  38. 2 points
    Thanks Don, it was so “Restrained” it was only going where we wanted it to! A neighbor has cattle and a big JD tractor with a round bale spike on a front end loader, unloading will be easier but for the next few days it is resting comfortably in the trailer.
  39. 2 points
    This is Bones. Finished a CS 17 MK3 a year ago and interested in MF-246. We live at the north end of ms. We visit the Gulf Coast once in a while. Would be interested in looking at your build. You can email me at captbonespirate.com for more private comms.
  40. 2 points
    Here are some photos I took. Videos to follow.
  41. 2 points
    I usually just measure it into a cup carefully the ratio has a window of about 5-10 percent in my experience (I've never had any issues with paint mix ratio). I don't usually thin the 545 at all but it does start to thicken up in the cup after about an hour so I would mix a small batch, roll it on and then mix some more. It flashes off quickly and you can add another coat in about 30 min. You'll just about be able to start at one end and when you get to the other end you can go back to the beginning for the next coat. If you DO put in some reducer I would give it a couple of hours to come out of the primer before the next coat. 545 is a high build primer so it's good at this (building up a decent thickness). I don't usually bother priming anywhere i'm going to nonskid. This is nice on a bigger boat that you have to stand in while painting the cockpit because you can keep the sole unpainted (primed) while you work everywhere else then carefully jump out. Or better yet, paint the boat while on it's side for better access and also you won't have to worry about dripping condensation from your respirator into the paint or sweat if it's hot or dust/dirt. Unless you want a very high level finish I probably wouldn't even bother using 545 in the cockpit at all just so you don't have to sand it all smooth which takes a long time but priming is necessary if you're not ok with seeing a pinhole here or there. The primer will reveal a lot of imperfections you just can't see in the epoxied surface. I find the best tools for the 545 are a brush for corners and an 1/8" foam roller for surfaces. Here are some links for what we use http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/store/ For topcoat i would go with either the "hot dog" rollers or the same 1/8" foam rollers. The best advise I can give would be to sand the primer until you're happy with leaving it looking like that because the only thing that's going to change when you paint it is the color and gloss, any imperfections will still show as the topcoat is very thin. I've found that thinning topcoat too much for rolling and tipping is frustrating because I want to be done with 2 coats. If you thin too much you'll be putting 4 or 5 coats and no one has time for that plus you don't want to be sitting there with it for that long. I like to thin it minimally when rolling and tipping. Just enough that it will still level out after I roll it on and tip it with a foam brush. I would do some test pieces. Less thinner means it will flash off faster though so you have to do it like you would varnish. Do an area with roller, tip it then move on with your wet edge. DONT GO BACK. If you thin it more then you can go back to it over and over but you might have to do 3 or even 4 coats. If you thin it like almost water as some do be sure to put it on ULTRA thin for no runs and plan to do at least 3 coats It will usually flash off pretty fast though as long as you put it on thin. For the best finish (like on the topsides) you want to start at one end and finish at the other. You can't go back and add a bit to just one spot without creating a "patch" with edges etc that only you will be able to see. When I painted the inside of the Core sound 17 I did it mostly with just a brush because i put it on heavy and could just about get away with one coat. It flashed off fast and you couldn't go back but it was quick and I was happy with the finish. I didn't care about a few brush strokes here and there. It is a home made boat after all and I no longer aspire to a gel-coat production boat finish in the cockpit. Topsides are easier to be picky, cockpits i've become much more tolerant of imperfections after having done a few. When I say imperfections I mean glass tape edges, low and high spots and the occasional brush stroke or run not pinholes, cracks, crevices or anything that would collect dirt or prevent it from being wiped clean those I care about.
  42. 2 points
    Your boat looks great! I really like your anchor roller, I have a Ronca anchor and you look like you have the best anchor roller. I believe it would work perfectly on the Mathew Flinders. I leave the sprits with the mast, I use several pieces of pipe insulation to isolate the sprits from the mast. We have trailered our boat likely 20,000 miles with no ill effects I can see. It does make rigging ridiculously quick and I never found a really suitable spot for the unattached sprits. I made a zip on cover that covers both masts, keeps the reefing lines from becoming a big rats nest. I leave the battens in the sail and just zip the sail into the same sail cover we use......well as a sail cover.
  43. 2 points
    Here's some decidedly vague info that may be a bit helpful. I obtained a masthead float from Alan and Graham last winter for my CS 17 MkI. I was going to get a kit, but they had one made up and basically sold it at cost (thanks!). I put it on the mizzen, even though they advised putting it on the main, since if I had put the extension tube on the main the outfit would no longer fit under my trailer cover. The recommendation to use the main was in order to get the greatest righting moment. I had to sacrifice about a foot of moment, I suppose, by moving to the mizzen. In any event, I do notice a slight added windage when stepping the mizzen. How much is very difficult to quantify. A "slight extra push"? Maybe? So I assume there is a corresponding *slight* decrease in windward performance, but I certainly have not noticed anything, and I have not noticed any visible signs like added mast bend. I take the float on and off each launching. It just takes a minute. It turns out the hardware store had a car air filter wing nut with a quarter-inch threaded bolt that fits perfectly, so I don't need to install a screw to hold it on, just twirl in the wing nut. The float has a name: Moby Turtle. I've also been very careful to make sure my masts are sealed. When I did capsize and turtle last year, one filled and one didn't. The one that filled had a 1/8" hole at the top that I had drilled and abandoned. That's apparently all it took to fill. So, having capsized and turtled and not wanting to repeat, I certainly feel safer with Moby T at the masthead, and it's worth the peace of mind for the negligible loss, if any, in performance and the added minute or less of setup time. Obviously the float is not the only option, given some of the other devices folks have found, but it is easy to use, out of the way, and does not seem to interfere with getting anywhere. Here's Moby Turtle at the mizzenhead. (Plus I love this picture.)
  44. 2 points
    As Deluge emerges from newborn to toddler-dom, it seems like time to update things a bit, with items that I haven't seen elsewhere but that seem to be working for me. She'd been in the water less than a dozen times when the CB pendant broke; an epoxy spur I'd left in the pendant path had shredded the line. I replaced it with one made of dynema after cleaning things up. I had to splice it in place, but fortunately it's really easy to splice the stuff. The challenge is the stopper knot - it's so slippery it's likely to slip off the end. The fibers, it turns out, are quick to absorb epoxy, so the solution is pretty simple. This is just an overhand knot I'd filled with epoxy inside a piece of PVC pipe. This didn't fit, so, gulp, I just ground it down till it did. I'm convinced it's plenty strong enough for the job. In fact, I don't bother with the fancy knot they tie on the internet for soft shackles, I just do this: The little rigging balls make nice 'stopper knots' and it's easier to make your shackle exactly the length you want it to be. I keep adding epoxy to the fur until it can't take any more, and I tie rigging twine at the neck to keep the epoxy from wicking down below the ball. It wasn't long after launch that I'd bashed my transom with the rudder, since I had no rudder stops. I just made a very simple set with starboard and they've worked well. These, or something like them, are now probably on the drawings: I've been impressed by how much the trailer and boat bounce around on Seattle's roads (they're often in terrible shape), and realized that the CB is bouncing around even more, secured only by the pendant (the CB slot doesn't align with my trailer bunks). So I put in a pedestal, capped with starboard, to keep the board from bouncing around when trailering. Graham used a fixed bolt to secure his main mast, and I got a couple of the one-legged nuts he uses for it, but it turned out to be easier for me to bolt the mast from the front. I can manage everything from the foredeck, and for whatever reason, it was easier for me to build. The T bolt was my first shot at silver solder - a mysterious alchemy that had long intimidated me. It was pretty much like regular soldering only higher heat. This is the aluminum receptacle - it's just tapped for the 5/16" bolt, and fixed in place with a couple of screws.
  45. 2 points
    I've been thinking a lot about everyone in NC and along the southeastern coast. I've been through my share of ice storms and big northern snow storms and even the famous Blizzard of '77 while growing up in Buffalo, NY, but I can't imagine that kind of uncertainty and damage that a hurricane brings. Please stay safe. Meanwhile, my punch list is getting shorter. I admit I sailed with my forward hatch held down by gravity. I stole Graham's clever idea and now she closes nice with a gasket. I used some cherry I had around for the gussets and an old maple 1 1/4" closet rod for the knobs and threaded receiver . I have a bit of sanding but I'm happy with the process. I used a Fostner bit to drill a hole hole big enough to nest the bolt head (knob piece) and the nut (part attached to hatch). I glued in the bolt and the nut with thickened epoxy. They weren't perfectly true to the center so I chucked the knobs in my drill press and used a rasp to get them nice and true and followed with sandpaper. A poor substitute for a lathe, but it worked well. I used a fostner bit to remove the paint off the inside of the hatch to glue in the receiver. Tonight I'll remove, sand and varnish. I have a night time X-country race, but I may get sailing tomorrow or Sunday. All in all it was a fun little project. My goal was to make sure the whole mess didn't extend below the hatch frame. My next step is to make a screen to Velcro to keep the critters out.
  46. 2 points
    My Ravenswood has been completed. My daughter finished hers, needs the final painting to look like an Orca and lines attached. No leaks!
  47. 2 points
    I'm writing this sitting on my CS17 - the original - anchored out in a protected bight in Connecticut near Norfolk. I want to echo a lot of what Steve said. I was drawn to b&b because of the the Everglades performance. I seriously considered another small cruiser, but when I read a user report that it didn't do so well upwind, ixnay. Plus its tabernacle was too tall for regular garages. So core sound seemed like the one. My wife and I drove to NC for vacation, met Graham and ordered one on the spot. The 17 has a lot of strings, and they're always catching on something, but when everything is in place, it's the sweetest 17 footer you could hope for. I had a long reach out today, the wind shifted, and I blasted back. Now it's time for boat and I to dine. Like steve, I'm so glad my path led to b&b.
  48. 2 points
    Heading out to Cockonoe last night. Got a late start, but thank you, GPS, made it thru the dark. Odd little voyage. (Photo by daughter)
  49. 2 points
    Taking action videos singlehanded is difficult, but here's a stab. I was on the great big pond at East Harbor Campground, Catawba Island, Ohio. Plans to go out on Lake Erie thwarted by headwinds, high winds, surf in channel. Speeds I'm reading are in mph, mostly 6-point-something. Note there's a reef in. Starting from hove-to. What a boat. 20190825_155747.mp4
  50. 2 points
    Small gear hammocks set in out of the way places work well too.

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