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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My wife, Annie, liked that! Seabiscuit’s boom was cut from a leftover piece of 2 x 8 Douglas fir — trimmed to dimension, sanded, marked for the rigging hardware, and edges rounded over. Waiting for the kit’s arrival — I’ll next cut the parts requiring 3/4” stock. I like yellow pine that builders use for stair case “risers.” They come in long lengths up to 16 footers. All of it straight grained and nearly all clear — the few knots are tight and small. It has to be [clear] because wooden residential stairs are never painted — they’re finished natural with varnish, like ladders. If you ask sales people [at builders supply] for yellow pine, they’re likely to say “Don’t have any.” Then ask for stair riser stock — and check it out.
  2. 1 point
    Nick, a shop crane is a stroke of genius! I’m going to call around and see if I can rent one. Wish I had friends or neighbors that were gear heads. Thanks for the suggestion and thinking outside the box!
  3. 1 point
    My experience was very similar to Mark’s and like he said it was a little scary, at least the first time. But I realized I had very secure rigging and the boat is pretty tough so working with it on its side turned out well (with old towels on the floor for padding and well chocked). I don’t have as much headroom as appears in the photos but I have a chain hoist so no problem with lift capacity on one end and I borrowed my neighbor’s shop crane for the other. And that’s the reason for this reply: I am now a real believer in the flexibility of using a crane. I rigged it at the bow eye with a webbing sling to prevent gouges from chain and I could lift, lower, and move side to side with little effort and under the tracks of my 7-foot garage door. So Todd, this is a testimonial for a crane if you are constrained for head space. Maybe a neighbor has one and you can just roll it down the street like I did.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    What Chick said and I would add: either don't epoxy till installed, or at least scuff the mating surface well if you did epoxy it first. I epoxied after. I was afraid the keel would become brittle with epoxy and not bend into place well. I do not know this to be an issue for fact.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I haven't posted an update for a while.. A custom made fly rod rod rack and fairing well underway. Not sure what to do with the floor finish. I had my heart set on teak however not sure about all that extra weight.. Maybe cork?
  8. 1 point
    The big tractor trailer arrived at my driveway about 5pm, the driver's last stop. He remembered delivering the Two Paw 7 three years ago. He was very helpful and volunteered to haul it into my garage (in the backyard) on a hand-powered fork lift. At the dip in the driveway we needed my two-wheeled hand truck to get beyond the dip. I'll organize everything tomorrow. Hope to see some of you all (with Seabiscuit) at the MASCF.
  9. 1 point
    One advantage your slide open hatch design has is the ability to pop out of it. I tried and think it's not really practical for my hinged hatch. I keep it dogged and by the time I could go below and pop out I might jibe or worse. I do think adding a downhaul will make it easy to add the first reef from the cockpit. I dropped sail to add it before, but it was slow. I did pause to reef the mizzen. Tying the first two sail ties was easy and safe standing on the cabin step.
  10. 1 point
    Steve, when it comes to going out on the cabin top to move the downhaul, well, don't. I did a few times, then asked myself why. Extending your body through the forward hatch works very well for that purpose. Next time just go through the cabin, step up on on the fwd cabin storage hatch area, and move the downhaul from there. Much more comfortable. Last sail I retrieved the anchor from that position (the anchor was even hooked onto a crab pot, so I had to pull up a lot of weight) and it worked very well.
  11. 1 point
    Daedalus: Nice boat! The rocker isn't necessarily off; saying that it turns slow but tracks great is like saying "It's hot out but not cold." On the kind of big water in your video, you'll find great tracking much more important. For quicker turning, learn to edge your boat and use sweep strokes. There are lots of videos on line showing the techniques. Also, as a former safety manager, I can't sign off without reminding you to always where a PFD. Have fun, Andy
  12. 1 point
    I screwed through the hull from the inside to attach the keel. It is bedded from end to end in epoxy, with enough screws to snug it up along the entire length. I did a complete dry fit before adding epoxy. The screws were stainless, sunk to just below flush, and filled with epoxy and later the 3 coats of neat, which puddles up a tad in the center of bilge over the screws. I don't know the Jessy, so no good advice on the stringers.
  13. 1 point
    Hello all! I’m a newbie to the forum, but just want to keep Riggs’ build alive as I’ve bought her from him. She’ll be fitted with a t-top, Awlgrip paint job and Suzuki 200 over the next couple months! I’ll start a new thread to keep her progress posted. See y’all soon, Kevin
  14. 1 point
    Just checked. No doubler under the corner radii on the S12 here at the shop. I think that little black thingy is a bug of some kind.
  15. 1 point
    Elegantly simple solution Dave. Also it packs up small when not in use. I made a light bar as part of my mast carrier. Connects to the trailer harness at about the axle, but I have made them with wire running to the connector at the hitch. Goes in the truck when not in use.
  16. 1 point
    On the Spindrift 12 some have probably doubled up those radii but I am pretty sure I've only seen it shown in Graham's design on the CS-17 and 20 and I added it to the CS-15 kit as well. It does give the ability to put a larger round-over on those edges.
  17. 1 point
    I thought it added a lot to that part of my CS15 seat. Made it feel a lot more solid.
  18. 1 point
    ...or they just get a leaky bottom.

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