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  1. First Overnight on the Water It’s a nice evening on Lake DuBay in central Wisconsin with enough wind to make it interesting, and with favorable direction for the few miles up the river to an anchor place. It’s my longest sail on Avocet and my first time to anchor it to sleep in the cabin. The cushions are splendid. All went very well with the setup… well, I didn’t quite put the snotter and halyard in the best position relative to the main sprit… but no problem. Dennis, an active leader of the local sailing club, also took his boat out tonight’s got and, after we sailed together, is anchored nearby. He completed building his Bolger Chebacco last year… beautiful workmanship. I mostly kept pace with him, then he unfurled his jib and moved a little faster. He will likely send a few photos of my boat from his and I’ll post them. After anchoring I got both sprits up and out of the way along with the sails. I am now trying out a fold-up camp chair in the cockpit to write this while also munching some corn chips and queso. Yep… it’s a fine evening.
    2 points
  2. I haven't posted in awhile, but I just watched Alan's video on Youtube. That was really neat. Maybe I should do one like that for Skeena. Here are my comments. · The Continental is a good choice for these boats. I have my bunks narrowed to support the longitudinal stringers. Replaced the bunk boards with 6” wide ones and the centerboard rests on the left one. That works good and keeps things simple. · Those starboard rub rails are sweet, but I just used teak and it’s held up well. I did not use SS hollow back. They do need to be touched up once in awhile. · What is the manufacturer and PN of the plug used for the mast lights through the bulkhead? · The anchor roller mount is clever. · Only having two downhauls is why I changed my hatch to sliding. Going on the deck solo is a bad idea. · I’m a knucklehead. When I added the mizzen tabernacle, I never adopted the bridle line setup of the main. I followed the plans for the rotating masts. I need to fix! · I like the shackles instead of lashing. It may be I’m just a bad lasher. · The 20 seems so huge compared to the 17. · I ordered “anti-re-cleat-ers” and have them on every cleat. Buy spares as they are hard to come by and they can catch on stuff and get ruined. · I like those forward shelves. · Not having opening ports has not been an issue. · The sweat on the back of Alan’s hands reminds me of how much I dislike hot and muggy. Bless you southerners. · Moving the CB trunk forward is something I want to avoid for now. I have completely neutral to lee helm though, so I need to tackle this at some point. The only time it Is bad is when I have both sails reefed twice. · I like the idea of the electric outboard and two batteries. I use a wheelchair battery I have in the front locker and a 50-watt solar panel for everything else. It hasn’t let me down and is usually fully charged mid-morning. · I go back and forth on whether I should have installed a cooler. The space below is nice. · I like the downhaul on the centerboard. I just finished the masthead float but the extra length of the post hits my vehicle, so I’m weighing my options. I’d hate to have to unscrew the mast at the tabernacle. I got an idea I’m working on. · As soon as I get it on I’ll test it on Skeena. · A four-part mainsheet seems excessive even on a 20. I do agree the mizzen could use a bit of extra purchase. · I like the S hook on the aft end of the main sprit. · I think I’m going to adopt Richard’s reefing setup. · I put my mizzen snotter cleat on the front of the mizzen tabernacle. It’s easy to adjust from both sides, but I might not need as much adjustment if I had the bridle rigged right (duh!) · The bands used for ponytails around the sprits work good instead of fairleads and give you a place to bundle the reefing line during transit. · On the 20 there is enough room between the hatches to put a stationary solar panel. · I never put on the dodger coaming. It was designed after I started Skeena. · I used a Yeti style cockpit rubber latch as I was afraid I’d catch my heals on those metal ones in the video. I’d like a report as mine aren’t lockable. · Yes, a pivoting tiller allows me to put the tiller on the bunk when I’m traveling on long trips. · I like that bungy rudder downhaul setup, but it looks pretty Rube Goldberg-ish. My uptight German genes are slightly offended. · I went a different direction on the ladder as I felt like that type of ladder would catch the sheets. Am I wrong? · The idea of putting a cleat on the cabin top for a spring-line is appealing. · Mizzen sheet holding the masts down…..genius. · Those light masts are really a joy. · The mizzen cleat should rotate. When I capsized, I just couldn’t release the mizzen without leaning forward to try and release. That put my weight in and contributed. · My mizzen sheet loads are high for all the reasons in your race follow up. · Rowing isn’t something I plan to do much, but a standup paddleboard paddle is amazing. You can bump the tiller over a bit and paddle from one side facing forward and get a lot of power for short bursts.
    2 points
  3. Don- You will have to try harder to offend me. I don’t take opinions about manufactured products personally. It is entirely possible that the van is not up to standards but until the transmission failure it has been one of the most reliable and functional vehicles I have owned. Graham and others have pointed out my mistake and I own it. Read the manual in 2015 and should have remembered to push the button in to keep it out of overdrive. Expensive lesson but the sting is gone and the van is back. Enjoy your travels! Cheers, Ken
    1 point
  4. Don- Are you sure you have the correct thinner? It is clearly drying to quickly. I am no expert but have done a bit of painting with LP. The hardest thing is not to overwork it when applying. It seems like magic to me if do a light tip and let the brush marks shrink up. Maybe enjoy your trip and try again in the Fall when the temps are cooler.
    1 point
  5. Ted- Thanks for the compliment. The home stretch always takes longer than we expect and those frustrations you mentioned are certainly there. That said, making the trim pieces are my reward for all of the “sticky” and dusty parts of the build. At this point I am ready to move on from lot’s of epoxy work and getting to fit and shape wood is my happy place. The bandsaw is my friend! Cheers, Ken
    1 point
  6. Ok thanks went to harbor freight tool and found one similar to the one shown worked great 29.99 fair price
    1 point
  7. And that's how we learn, although sometimes not so publicly. But think of all the new, unforgettable techniques you have at hand (just drop an anchor!) for next time. Sail on!
    1 point
  8. Well… it’s a neat and slick way to go. The ball through a halyard bight pushed through the sailhead cringle is the system that came on a boat I bought. The ball slipped out when I raised the sail, resulting in the halyard end zipping to the top of the mast. I believe it came undone when I motored out and the wind was flipping the unhoisted sail around with a still loose halyard. It started a “comedy of errors”.
    1 point
  9. Quote from PadrePoint's link: Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches. While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.
    1 point
  10. Steamed the coaming cap this evening.
    1 point

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