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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So I spent a week on the Chesapeake. One part of the trip was the MASCF trip to Wye Island. Here is a video of the adventure. If you don't have patience, at least head to the 2:30 mark. Lot's of fun! What a boat. I couldn't be happier. https://youtu.be/KOrlYOOprYw
  2. 2 points
    I hadn't realized what a challenge spaghetti lines in the cockpit were til I started practicing donuts (sailing tight circles around a buoy to improve boat handling skills. Get so you can do tight circles in 15 kts of wind to build your confidence. Still working on it.) I kept getting strangled, or tripped, or glasses torn off by spare lines as I ducked under to grab the far rail. I tried velcro tabs, but switched to this - a couple of washers with a stand-off between. Works better than the velcro for me, but still not completely satisfied. Here's how I'm locking the cabin - I've sleeved the thru-hole with some SS tubing to make it a bit more durable. I really like trailering with the sprits atop the masts - it's quicker to rig and the straps tighten up the masts while we're on the road. As nice as Graham's were, the layout looked like too much work. Mine look like pook, but they work ok and were simpler to make. So, most of you will be horrified by my anchor roller, but I like it. I think it weighs something close to 2 lbs, but that's a mere fraction of the weight of 15' of chain in the anchor locker. It keeps the anchor solidly fixed in place, and I can launch it from the cockpit. I keep it tethered like this underway and trailering. And I've just run a line back to the cockpit that I can use to pop off the tether. I'll 'arm' it before coming in to anchor and cleat the rode off at, say, 50'. Haven't actually used this yet, but from the cockpit I'll be able to ease up to the anchorage and let it go. Peg and I were recently in the San Juans. It was beautiful (altho the arrangement above would have been helpful). But 10' tidal differences are common here. This lagoon actually dried out to the rock you see on the right. We moved the boat before that, but I'd beached Deluge at high tide in the new spot in a direct on-shore 15 kt breeze, and really hadn't sorted out in my head how you do clothesline anchoring. In any case, I was going to need Peg to help me anchor, and nor could I figure out how to get off the beach with her in the boat. Here's the result - water wasn't high enough to re-launch til 5pm the next day. (We had a Great time.) I did eventually get something worked out: But here's how I plan to do it from now on. This may be risky, but seems to me the risk is fairly small for over nights - to use a quick link in place of the standard horseshoe shackle. With it, I can quickly change the configuration between shackling the rode directly to the chain (for regular anchoring), and running the rode thru the link (for clothesline). Regular anchoring: and for clothesline anchoring:
  3. 2 points
    As Deluge emerges from newborn to toddler-dom, it seems like time to update things a bit, with items that I haven't seen elsewhere but that seem to be working for me. She'd been in the water less than a dozen times when the CB pendant broke; an epoxy spur I'd left in the pendant path had shredded the line. I replaced it with one made of dynema after cleaning things up. I had to splice it in place, but fortunately it's really easy to splice the stuff. The challenge is the stopper knot - it's so slippery it's likely to slip off the end. The fibers, it turns out, are quick to absorb epoxy, so the solution is pretty simple. This is just an overhand knot I'd filled with epoxy inside a piece of PVC pipe. This didn't fit, so, gulp, I just ground it down till it did. I'm convinced it's plenty strong enough for the job. In fact, I don't bother with the fancy knot they tie on the internet for soft shackles, I just do this: The little rigging balls make nice 'stopper knots' and it's easier to make your shackle exactly the length you want it to be. I keep adding epoxy to the fur until it can't take any more, and I tie rigging twine at the neck to keep the epoxy from wicking down below the ball. It wasn't long after launch that I'd bashed my transom with the rudder, since I had no rudder stops. I just made a very simple set with starboard and they've worked well. These, or something like them, are now probably on the drawings: I've been impressed by how much the trailer and boat bounce around on Seattle's roads (they're often in terrible shape), and realized that the CB is bouncing around even more, secured only by the pendant (the CB slot doesn't align with my trailer bunks). So I put in a pedestal, capped with starboard, to keep the board from bouncing around when trailering. Graham used a fixed bolt to secure his main mast, and I got a couple of the one-legged nuts he uses for it, but it turned out to be easier for me to bolt the mast from the front. I can manage everything from the foredeck, and for whatever reason, it was easier for me to build. The T bolt was my first shot at silver solder - a mysterious alchemy that had long intimidated me. It was pretty much like regular soldering only higher heat. This is the aluminum receptacle - it's just tapped for the 5/16" bolt, and fixed in place with a couple of screws.
  4. 2 points
    Taking action videos singlehanded is difficult, but here's a stab. I was on the great big pond at East Harbor Campground, Catawba Island, Ohio. Plans to go out on Lake Erie thwarted by headwinds, high winds, surf in channel. Speeds I'm reading are in mph, mostly 6-point-something. Note there's a reef in. Starting from hove-to. What a boat. 20190825_155747.mp4
  5. 2 points
    Justin, Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able to slide the boat around the garage. For cleaning up that epoxy squeeze out, a "mini-grinder" with a heavy grit sandpaper disk like 36 grit is an essential tool at our shop. It will make quick work of the majority of those cured epoxy blobs just be real careful not to gouge the panel and do the final 1/16" with a block of sandpaper or a flat machine sander like a 1/2" sheet sander or random orbit. Looking forward to seeing her folded up!
  6. 2 points
    More mods: Installed a GPS holder using RAM mounts (highly recommend RAM mounts, the swivel balls aren't just plastic; they have an aluminum core, and the GPS mount has little roller bearings that ease insertion/removal of the unit). My awesome wife sewed up an organizer for the cabin bulkhead. It was so useful last time we went sailing we are going to install one on the starboard side as well. As you are sitting in the cockpit with your back against the bulkhead, you can reach in and grab what you need without having to get up and go in the cabin.
  7. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  8. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  9. 2 points
    Well it got wet today, only took me 6 months to do it LOL. Pics are not great as they were taken from the deck by my step mom on her phone but the general idea is there. Boat ran very well in my mind, gets a little slippery in the turn but i think that might be due to the fact that right now it has a 13" prop on it for the maiden voyage. not very good numbers due to tiny prop. 3200 rpm it planned out at 18 knots. 4000 rpm 21knots and 5200 30knots. Now i have run it for 4 or 5 hrs i will go to the motor riggers with those numbers and come back with a proper prop and will get some far better numbers i think. All in all was fun and the boat ran great
  10. 2 points
    I started out in a competitive Windmill racing fleet before I really knew how to sail. Had read all the library books on sailing boats but in 1966, that was not very many. In our first couple races with Liz as my crew, we dumped in blustery conditions at the leeward mark. The early Windmill was completely open and did not have any flotation other than the wood in the boat so flipping it back up and sailing on was out of the question. I was able to bring it back vertical with tons of water inside and tossed out the anchor which brought the boat head to wind. With Liz hanging on to one rail, I bailed with a bucket until the water was below the daggerboard slot and climbed aboard to get more water out. Finally I was able to pull my long suffering crew aboard and hauled the anchor. We finished the race and and Liz asked me if that was the worse that could happen. After I assured her that a capsize was about it, she said "well I won't worry any more" and we went on to years of more racing capsizes, some easier, some worse and a few much more difficult. The experience gained from easy situations stood in good stead whenever Murphy decided to try new tests of our skills. After this episode, I installed port and starboard air bags that allowed for much easier recovery. One crazy capsize occurred in a regatta in Chick's back yard at a small lake just south of Asheville on the first week of November. While attempting to get relief from very blustery wind, I sailed into a downwind cove. I immediately saw that this was a stupid thing to do as the wind remained high as well as having large shifts side to side in the cove. Managed to tack around but one shift just flipped the boat over. My boat "Don Quixote" rolled mast down and on through a 360 and came back upright. By this time the capsize practice paid off and I just walked the boat all the way over and stepped back inside, where the water finally came over the top of my boots and got my feet wet for the first time. The lake is cooling water for a power plant and is so tepid that tropical fish live there. Of course on the first of November, the air is cold and we sailed back to the club dock for my crew to get out and dry out in the warm clubhouse. I was ashamed to admit to my crew that I was all dry and he may have never forgiven me. Many capsizes in Lasers and many other boats came along at regular intervals while racing. It is a general truth that if you do not capsize from time to time in a high performance boat while racing, you are probably not sailing on the edge that is necessary to win. A boat can go under water with out a normal capsize. Racing against Graham in frostbite races in Spindrift 10s, I sailed the boat under the water down wind in strong wind. With the sail of a Spindrift so far forward, the pressure overcame my ballast sitting on the transom and just went under a wave. Graham just looked over at my swamped boat as he sailed by and won the race. In all 50 plus years since 1966, I have never capsized when not racing. Capsize drills, like all drills are intended to make the real thing less serious and allow you to follow your training and do what is necessary without having to think for the first time about how to go about it.
  11. 2 points
    On my DAYsailer, I have a portable LED system. 99% of the time, I’m home eating supper before the sun goes down. But if I’m doing some twilight fishing, for example, these come out. The mounts are already in place. All I have to do is clip them into their mounting brackets (not the suction cups!), and turn them on. If/when I get to doing some camp cruising, I’ll hoist a handheld lamp aloft. I guess it all depends on how often you will use them. Now, mind you, if I had a mark III, I might have to rethink my strategy. But I’m trying to employ the KISS (Keep It Simple, Silsbe) method.
  12. 2 points
    Taking advantage of the unusually warm fall we're having... I managed to get my Curlew into a natural body of water for the first time.
  13. 2 points
    Our sails are still of the sleeve luff variety. We opted for the third mast position mainly because it was there so why not. With the main mast completely down windage is reduced which was much needed sailing upwind in about 28 knots in the Newport river. Spray was booming off the bow and blowing back about 3 boat lengths in the wind. It was very wet and still very controllable. The anderson bailer kept up with water removal perfectly. I've always just sailed the reefed mizzen in its standard position but we had a calm anchorage to re-rig the boat so we took advantage of it. Conditions were very tough this year.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    After reading all this good advice all I should probably add is - Don't Panic! Take it one step at a time and remember that if you mess anything up (like I frequently do) you can likely undo it with the judicious application of a sharp tool. If you look at it as a big overhaul of a boat hull it may seem intimidating but if you think of it as cutting out a flat piece of wood and replacing it (and then doing it again until you're done) it might be less daunting. Don't forget to come back here with pictures and questions. And you thought nobody was listening
  16. 2 points
    I recommend 6061 for above the LWL applications, which typically are in the rig or fittings. 6061 is commonly available as is 5052, which is better for immersed exposure. I agree most home builders would be best advised to have a local welder/fabricator cut, drill and countersink anything but very thin stainless. This is one reason I recommend aluminum bar stock for these sort of things, as wood tools can be used and it's fairly easy to work, bend, drill, etc. An example of this type of work is attached. This rudderhead has a lot of shape and more flat bar stock bent around. There's some slight compound curves involved, which were pounded into it with a leather hammer. It's a precise fit, bedded in 3M-101 and again screwed down with #8 stainless oval heads. Also attached is more of the same flat bar stock, this time bent to serve as a below deck, halyard sheave bracket. Simply bent in a vice, over a small pipe to get a good radius. Working custom pieces of hardware like this is easy in aluminum and once polished up, makes you look like a pro. The polishing process is a bit tedious, but not hard and you likely have the tools to do it already. Compared to bending and machining stainless, no contest.
  17. 2 points
    Is it really that much more mild this winter? Seem to remember drifts of snow surrounding your last project. Dories and skiffs always shock me with how darn lovely they are. Peace, Robert
  18. 2 points
    The farther south he gets the warmer and nicer it will be on the outside. Lower temp and contrary wind of course have kept him in the waterway thus far. He has no plans to go outside but I'm sure he is watching the winds and temp closely to see if he has a bout of fair wind and calm seas that he could do a longer run and make use of that windvane.
  19. 2 points
    I'm also looking forward to making a boom tent. On the "unmarked" Core Sounds, it looks like most of the living space is under the mizzen sprit and the aft half of the main. Have you considered using the mizzen sprit as a ridge pole for the aft half of your tent and then supporting the fore part with a line running from the mizzen snotter to the base of the main mast? The aft end of the sprit/ridge pole could be supported either by the haliard or by a boom crutch. I think the best advice I have picked up is to make a trial tent out of polytarp and see what works before investing in expensive "real" material.
  20. 2 points
    My cheap but effective rope ladder
  21. 2 points
    I can hear it now Robert - "mom, did dad really have that small of hands or what . . . ?
  22. 2 points
    Once epoxy cures fully, which takes about 2 weeks (depending on formulation), it is inert. It's so inert that implanted devices, such as pacemaker wiring and the like, are sealed with epoxy. The problem most have is they sand dry, but not fully cured goo, which places still chemically active particulates into the air, which get sucked into lungs and they imbed into mucus membranes, which is a beeline to the brain (the first place blood goes from the lungs). A good particulate mask is all you need, unless working with it 8 hours a day, as a career. Technically, it's possible to absorb really fine particulates through the skin, though you really have to work at it, such as mash it into open cuts. The digestive systems handles it pretty well and some brands are more tasty than others, but avoid eating the liquid state stuff. Currently, I don't know of any bisphenol free marine epoxy formulations commonly available. The stuff you're using is formulated to be less allergic to some that are sensitized, but it's still a bisphenol resin, with a modified amine cure. Most folks building a boat in their backyard have nothing to worry about, especially if using reasonable precautions, like gloves and a mask. It generally take many years of exposure to develop sensitivity. I've been working goo since the 80's and only have a very slight sensitivity and only to certain brands, typically their hardeners. Avoiding these brands has eliminated any issues. Compared to polyester and vinylester resin systems, the epoxy health issues are modest, again assuming reasonable precautions are taken. This said, some seem more susceptible to epoxy than others and I seem to be one of the lucky ones. If you are more susceptible, change brands or try the new DWX stuff from Chuck (nice guy BTW) over at DuckWorks. There's no guarantees, but usually just switching brands can help a lot, for most. For the most part, the BPA worries that have cropped up in recent years are from some testing results done in the 90's and ought years. In these tests they force fed some mice (or rabbits or whatever) extremely high does of straight up BPA laden materials and guess what, they got some issues in time. I can assure you that if you were caged and force fed nothing but straight up strawberries, you'd have issues too, though banning strawberries isn't going to happen anytime soon. My point is, don't get too excited about some of these tests. More often than not, they prove to be false alarms. 20 years ago, coffee wasn't good for you, but now it is and the same can be said about pregnant women drinking red wine, so if you use reasonable procedures, you'll probably be just fine, plus you can get your antioxidants from your morning coffee and an after dinner buzz, with your wife's wine too.
  23. 2 points
    Today Peggy-O changed hands! Her new owner, Bill H, should get great enjoyment from this boat, and I hope that he does. Bill has entered the EC and Blackbeard Challenge several times in a "kayak with a sail" so he knows what he is doing. I hope to see some of you at the EC this year. I plan to go for the set-up day March 4 and the start to cheer Graham and some of you on..... Thanks for all your support over last couple years! Lennie
  24. 2 points
    After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.
  25. 2 points
    I built my CS 17 'Lively' in 2007 and have sailed her solo most of the time. I do beach camping for a few days at a time. I had a canvas cabin made for her and it works very well with almost too much headroom. I made a conscious decision to go for a lot of headroom which I have since regretted because I cannot sail with the cabin up. So I would recommend the CS 17 III or a CS 17 with a canvas cabin that is low enough to sail with it up. I love my CS 17 and have sailed her solo in winds from 0 to 25 knots and felt confident at all speeds. I have double reefs set up on the sails. If money is a concern, the 17 with canvas cabin would definitely be less expensive. Someone mentioned it but I want to emphasize that trailer launching and retrieval should definitely be a consideration. I don't like to think about it much but your physical condition and not your age should be considered also. I am 75 but am in good physical condition so far. I am not sure I would want to deal with the larger boats. Graham knows how to design a boat. Any of his boats would satisfy your needs. See the photos with my cabin.
  26. 2 points
    Just finished a Curlew for my wife... Couldn't find any decent WRC locally, but I was able to get some really nice, knot-free, straight grained cypress in 16' lengths from a local mill. No scarfing required! The leftovers from milling the gunwales and stingers worked very nicely for the laminated coaming as well. No actual "launch" photos, however- I learned the hard way not to go anywhere near the water with my phone- but the boat performed perfectly and she loves it, her only other kayaking experiences have been in big 'ol roto-molded plastic boats. I'm told this is a major improvement over those.
  27. 2 points
    Two of us paddled it 200 lbs. in back and 150 lbs. In the front seat, is stable and tracks well.... It paddled great for my 265 lb. friend... Table Rock Lake.
  28. 2 points
    MM, Yes we have done tabernacles in the CS17 and CS15's. I do not bother for the mizzen because it is a lot safer than going onto the foredeck. There have been times when I thought that I was in training for tossing the caber.
  29. 2 points
    Thats okay Scott, different strokes etc.. My oars have never failed to start on the fist stroke.
  30. 1 point
    Thanks, guys -- for good advice. There's no hurry, especially while getting ready to sell Chessie. At the MessAbout I'll try to sail a number of small sailers. You all have just given me an idea. My daughter, Suzie, has the Penobscot 14 (a plywood lapstrake w/a lug rig, designed by Arch Davis) that I built about 10 years ago. It also has 2 pairs of beautiful oars that I made out of Sitka spruce. It sits on an aluminum Trailerx . I know she doesn't use it much. It's a little heavy, but she sails really nice. I'm sure she'd let me have it back. I'd have to build another tiller for it -- the designed tiller doesn't tilt up. So when you come about, you have to practically "walk around" the end of the tiller in order to move to windward. You guys got me thinking an all 'nother way.
  31. 1 point
    I finished rigging my boat this morning and took her down to the Ross River in Townsville. She paddles well. I couldn't remove the grin from my face! Final mass 17kg. Frame: marine ply. Stringers: Queensland Maple. Finish: marine varnish.
  32. 1 point
    You are correct, of course Dave. The real villains do their work behind closed doors in the Raleigh legislature. Not that some of the mess isn't natural but we should not be making it worse unnecessarily. We usually blame the "heads in the sand" tendencies for ignoring impending disasters but, in this case, the complete lack of a spine allows our leaders to poke their heads up their own asses.
  33. 1 point
    Hi, Planning to come with our CS15 #153, and shared info with a really nice, new to them, CS17 owners/neighbors on the Pamlico so hope they'll join us too. Rick n MickZ Leaving the boat home but coming Sat to watch and learn and see new stuff. R Ooops, family stuff now overrides our coming to the camp. Have safe fun. R
  34. 1 point
    I'm launching her tomorrow. Here she is on a Trailex SUT 250-S:
  35. 1 point
    I'm not sure how clear the picture is, since it's a clip from a larger photo, but what I'm trying to show is that I used the same DW bracket Docpal shows and was able to position it so that the motor flips up without any further modification to the transom and yet still allows reversing the engine with full clearance underneath. It is offset to about halfway between the centerline and right edge. I added a block to the aft side of the bracket so the engine would sit as far back as possible, and to maximize the angle I was seeking. The bracket is very solid on the boat. No worries on that front. I did epoxy another piece of 3/4 ply inside this half of the transom as a stiffener. (Basically filled in the area between the top, side, bottom and mid- 1-bys.) This is all on the CS 17. Like you, after initial problems with hydro lock, I now find "Miss Q" dependable, largely due to removing crankcase oil down to the lower level allowed. The shop had overfilled it and then some. Also the engine is running noticeably smoother at low, idle and shifting speeds after a few hours break-in. Final note: I tried to position the bracket so the motor in the up position would lock in place. I can get it to lock with some tugging, but I found that it stays up nicely without locking in normal sailing conditions, so I've just been pulling it up and leaving it. To use, give a push and down it goes, no need to tussle with the lock lever.
  36. 1 point
    Don, try that for your next passport photo. It should make for some interesting times going through airport security. PeterP
  37. 1 point
    The problem isn't the fuel, so much as the industry's needing ethanol tolerant soft parts, like gaskets, O rings, diaphragms, seals, hoses, etc., not being large enough to worry about. The automotive industry is huge, so the soft parts manufactures have formulated rubbers and synthetics for these parts, with their related tooling. Larger marine gas engines (inboards and I/O's) can use slightly different ethanol/marine formulations, because most are automotive applications that are marinized. The tooling is the same, just a different marine formulation. The small engine industry just doesn't have the volume, to get these manufactures to push the marine formulations through their tooling, so we're stuck with non-compliant hoses, O rings and the like. It's a numbers thing and when they figure out how many yards of any particular diameter hose they want to run with a particular formulation, they have to justify the costs of cooking up the special mix, for these limited production runs. The automotive industry isn't imune from this either. For example, most carbureted engines have used rubber tipped inlet needles for a few decades, replacing the solid brass ones that tended to dent in time. The rubber tip lasted longer and could conform to slight irregularities on the seat too. To date, I know of no ethanol compliant rubber tipped needles, even for automotive applications. The only option is a fuel stabilizer, for those engines with non-compliant hoses and other soft parts. You'll still have to deal with sludge, if you leave fuel in the system, but you will have longer times, before you have to pull things apart and the fuel system in general will be cleaner too. Even with ethanol, fuels are much better today, in terms of being cleaner, containing anti-oxidizers, anti-coagulants, etc., so do get fooled with the old school fuels that are still available. Odds are, in spite of the ethanol, your engine will like the new stuff better. The only exception to this are leaded fuel engines, without hardened valve seats. For these I'll still recommend a new fuel, but also a lead additive, so you can have the lubrication, along with the other benefits the new fuels bring. All you need to do is pull the plugs after a hard pull and compare their condition with and without the new fuel additives. These new fuels are one of the reasons you can leave a set of plugs in the holes for 150K miles. Try that with an old school, leaded fuel engine. For those of you that don't remember, we changed worn out and fouled plugs about every 10K miles and an engine that had 100K miles on it was done, worn out, burning oil, had had its valves reseated at least once and generally was used as a new mooring weight.
  38. 1 point
    Scientifically calculated to be the optimal placement for the knots. Yes, there's one down yonder, too. This is a really thin coat of clear, to lock them in place. They will eventually be painted, as well. I'm not sure how. Maybe white, maybe yellow to match, maybe yellow and black, maybe red, white, and blue. Maybe...
  39. 1 point
    Hi Reese, It all depends on what you feel that you want to do with the boat. I tried to make the mk3 perform about equal to the mk1. While the there is more weight and windage in the mk3, it has more stability and more sail area. There is a lot more work in building the mk3. It is more a micro yacht than a dinghy but with the advantages of a dinghy. She can be knocked down and recover whereas once you reach the down flooding angle in an open boat, you are over. That said, I have logged a lot of open water miles in the mk1 without ever capsizing, but it can. I like having the cabin for shelter as well as the large cockpit and the electrical system with it's solar charger . I have lived on mine for about 2 weeks so far and I will be spending a lot more nights on board. I will be fitting mine with a cockpit dodger as well as a cockpit awning. I am currently cutting down a trolling motor for an electric outboard.
  40. 1 point
    Don, I accept your shout but there is another rule. A shout must always be returned.
  41. 1 point
    Not sure but I think I see daylight ahead. Had some issues with getting the carlins fitted properly but with Graham's help it seems to have turned out ok. Also had to take another break to get some home maintenance taken care of. Here's a few of the most recent pictures. Still have hopes of launching before freeze-up.
  42. 1 point
    Blkskmr, I think that the track has potential for all kinds of sliding applications. I just wish that they would get it done.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks for the report Doug. I am sorry for all of you the event was cancelled. I was planning on going to CP1 saturday evening, but when the event was cancelled, I decided to just hang with my Dad. It was so strange because it just seemed like a perfect day for sailing small boats. I hope you took pictures and video! Take Care, Steve
  44. 1 point
    I would plan for enough line to allow the sails to go all the way forward (parallel to the keel) as mentioned in the last paragraph of Chick's quote. I found it quite useful to have my sheets that long. If you have trouble paying for the high tech stuff in that length you might consider using the high tech stuff for snotters and halyards and saving money on the sheets. Sheets are often much larger diameter than they need to be so they will be comfortable to handle - This makes them quite a bit stronger than they need to be so a lower-strength (less costly), but comfortable kind of rope can be used.
  45. 1 point
    Good luck Alex. Your guy is the only person I have heard that believes in covering epoxy with gelcoat. Please let us know what happens if you try it. Personally, I think two part epoxy based paints hold up as good or better than gelcoat. Dale
  46. 1 point
    My tiller gets used, obviously, but not dinged up. So it gets varnished. If you have a nice piece of wood with any grain figure at all, and you want to see the most gorgeous thing you can imagine, put 10 coats of varnish on it. Don't skimp and don't stop at 7 coats when it already looks like it has been dipped in glass. Keep going. Plan on a scuffing it with 220 or 320 grit between coats, but that is not a big deal. Helps you see where you have been for the next coat. The downside is, plan on at least an annual touch up. Do that and it will last a long, long time. If this is left out in the sun and is not covered, plan on a coating more frequently. A little work, but something you can take pride in. PS: I like to put a turks head knot on the grip end of my tiller. Looks salty and allows you to register your hand on the end of the tiller without have to glance at it.
  47. 1 point
    These types of ladders are a dime a dozen, but you have to find them. See if there's any old boat bone yards in your area. A little polishing and replacing worn our teak steps is easy enough. Another place to look is repair shops, where you'll find 2 or 3 old boats that have huge and outstanding bills on them, the owner hasn't settled. You can usually talk them out of a ladder or other part, if the boat has been "liened" and the yard now owns it. A $150 ladder will quickly become a $50 ladder, needing some love. I even have one I'd be willing to sell you.
  48. 1 point
    Wow, just noticed the notes at the bottom showed that yesterday, 28 January was the most members on line in one day record. 108 members, and who knows how many guests visited the site. Pretty active place here.
  49. 1 point
    Yeah, we've had a warm winter down here. The low last light was 59. I haven't had the heat or A/C on except for a few hours in two months.
  50. 1 point
    Couldn't have said it better myself!! I am always tempted to say Stability is over-rated but ... My personal opinion is that if you want to do more than just mess-about and cover a mile maybe two you are much better off to give up some stability in favor of a lower resistant. It means left effort is spend paddling and you can cover more ground. And after a while you will never miss the stability you don't have.

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