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  1. 9 points
    I have used this feature a number of times. But today I saw my first like by someone else. I can't say no one else uses this feature, but as thoroughly as I read this forum I can't imagine too many likes got past me. The most common reasons I have for using the like feature is to show support for a good technical post without saying the same things again when some one else has already said them well in the first place. Also I use it to simply provide a positive reply for cool pictures and acknowledge that I enjoyed them. Anyway, I just thought it strange how little the feature is used. Not to imply written replies need to be limited, just a curiosity of mine.
  2. 5 points
    I have been designing the Mathew Flinders for myself for more than a decade off and on, long before we did the Mk3's. What I was trying to achieve was to design the ultimate small voyaging boat that could easily be trailed behind a reasonable size vehicle and yet be be capable of crossing any ocean. She had to be built tough and live well for two people with room for a third person. She is not intended to replace the mk3's as they are great boats, but for anyone who wants to go up to the next level. I went through hundreds of iterations till I finally got it and I am very pleased with final outcome. As you can imagine I am really excited to see her come to life with Jay and Carol. I started at 22 feet and it finally grew to 23'4" as I massaged the ergonomics. When Jay ordered the boat, I did a lot of thinking about his comfort plus I had some interest from people who are a lot larger than me so at the last minute I scaled her by 5% to give 6'4' headroom with the final length at 24'6". If anyone has to have 6'6" headroom they can raise the cabin sides. The trailing weight will be around 4000" depending on how they load it. I am still planning to build the 23'4" version. One of the things that I worked hard on was the range of stability. She has positive stability to 180 degrees which more than meets the EU ISO rules for ocean sailing. I have attached one of the many stability curves that I made with the red and blue curves showing a best and worst case vertical center of gravity. That is to allow for builders to make their own modifications and still meet the high range of stability. I was also able to calculate the Flicka A well known small cruising boat, @ 20 degrees for comparison.
  3. 4 points
    I had the new wind vane out in fresh conditions yesterday. I think that this is the one, it took everything that I could throw at it and it did the job. I had a reef in each sail and had the rail down a number of times. She went up wind and down as well as a couple of planing reaches. As Alan said the first vane took up too much real estate in it's place and the only place that I could find to stow it was in the cabin and lashed along side my berth. There were other gripes, the clutch was too complicated for the home builder to make and was awkward to use requiring two hands at the back of the boat to use for the course adjustment and it was too easy to move it too much. The new vane stow easily in the hatches. I was always concerned about the vane getting damaged, I did step on and bend it, but the wood ones are cheap light and it is easy to have a couple on board. We have had numerous requests for plans and I am now satisfied with the new version enough to go ahead with the plans. I am leaving on Wednesday to do the Texas 200 solo so I will wait to see if any issues crop up during the trip. The new design is making maximum use of wood and epoxy over metal and welding which will be more familiar to builders. The yoke and tube is glass and epoxy and the course setting wheel will be layers of plywood.
  4. 4 points
    When applying goo and fabric overhead, a builder with a significant bald spot has the advantage of using it as a squeegee, to hold and smooth the cloth, without the usual bad hair day. Apply a PVA first for easier clean up afterward.
  5. 4 points
    I may have missed other posts relating to future plans for B&B Yacht Design, but I noticed this entry from Graham on another thread and thought that it deserved it's own thread. I want to applaud Graham and Carla, first for their commitment and innovation to boat design and building, and second for their foresight and good fortune in bringing Alan and Beth into the business. I also want to thank and congratulate Alan and Beth for keeping this wonderful enterprise alive.
  6. 4 points
    I talked with Carla yesterday. She is doing MUCH better. She is off of anti-biotics now and the infection is gone. She has 5 sets of plates, screws, and rods in her neck, but---this is hard to believe---she has a full range of motion!. And NO PAIN! She is able to eat normally now, and it "all comes out the way it is supposed too." She has lost a lot of weight through her ordeal. She feels good but is still very weak. Her main job now is to build up her strength and endurance to the point that she can begin physical therapy. She still has more surgery to come on her lower back. (Still pain in her lower back, That was where she was originally supposed to have the surgery until tests indicated a very dangerous situation in her neck.) This will happen, maybe, in December. She is back in he office trying to get everything back on track---including Graham. Her computer went down just as she got back, and they went through a period when the phone system was "off line". Who did I just hear saying "When it rains, it pours."? Beth was a great help in getting out plans and such. Carla is very thankful to all of of you for your concerns, well wishes, and prayers. She said that there were literally thousands of people, church groups, and friends praying for her, and she credits this for her recovery from a very dangerous and trying situation. Thank you to all of you. And most of all, thanks to God!
  7. 4 points
    Here are a couple of newer pictures. We are hoping to be sailing at the messabout.
  8. 3 points
    Show coat to check my fairing. A couple of spots that need some work but generally OK.
  9. 3 points
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  10. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  11. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Not much has really changed, I've just been sanding. But I finally bought a new phone and have a clear photo.
  12. 3 points
    I recently finished my Stonefly canoe and waiting for the ice to melt to see how well she handles.
  13. 3 points
    Forgive me, Stareed, but I finally dug up these photos. Get out the Kleenex!
  14. 3 points
    Couple more pictures. Shows the kayak closer, so you get better idea how it looks. Deck rigging is going to get done before spring.
  15. 3 points
    I enjoyed building my Long Shot so much that I convinced my brother to buy the materials so I could build one for him. Now we get to paddle together. I started building on June 12, 2017 and finished it on September 03, 2017. The first photo is my brother, Robert, taking delivery of his blue Long Shot. I have also added photos of my two Long Shot sisters. Please don't ask me to donate the labor to build one for you. It's quite a commitment. CJH.
  16. 3 points
    As was noted to me recently by another builder, some of the best examples of boats are built by amateurs with serious skills and no price point restraints, in terms of their craftsmanship. Many of these "works of art" are simply a reflection of their piano builders nature, but most are by folks that love their work, enjoy doing it and understand that an extra hour or two fine tuning something, isn't really that costly on this particular project.
  17. 3 points
    Here's a closeup of the final surface. This is with one coat of undiluted Totalboat primer and one coat of thinned Brightside topcoat. I'll stop applying finish at this point. If I were doing it over again, I'd thin the primer a little. There were little pinholes in the valleys of the weave, which is one reason I thinned the topcoat more than usual. This method did take a lot of epoxy to wet out the Dynel. I ended up squeegeeing out about a pint of goo, before allowing it to cure. And I did take some sandpaper to the cured epoxy, to knock off some high, sharp points of fabric. But I'm happy with the job. We'll see if my mate's bottom agrees.
  18. 3 points
    I finally launched the kayak yesterday after almost a year of interruptions during the build. It was very good to be on the water again. I had nearly perfect conditions for Lake Mead- light winds, temperature in the low 80's, and the water temperature was 75 degrees. I made several short paddles to get the seat, back band, and foot rests adjusted, then paddled for close to 2 miles. I'm pleased with the performance of the boat and look forward to many more miles in the future. Thanks Jeff !!!
  19. 3 points
    If you want a cheap and mindless guide coat for sanding and boarding your surface, just get you some food coloring and put it in denatured alcohol and apply it with a rag onto your kilz primed surface. Yep, been priming with that stuff and binzeed equivalent since the mid 80s. or so. I apply it right over fiberglass for building up and filling finish cloth weave in particular. And yes you can use after sanding under two part parts after allowing it to cure for a couple of weeks. That's the oil base INTERIOR stuff that costs 15 bucks a gallon versus several hundred bucks for a two part gallon kit. I also use microlight fairing compound over the kilz primer. Then recoat with primer one coat and paint.
  20. 3 points
    In my day we didn't even HAVE zeroes - We had to write a one and then erase it!
  21. 3 points
    Thanks ... my own little mental health project! There aren't many corners left in the Internet where a group of people regularly get together without insulting each other. Must be the epoxy fumes ....
  22. 3 points
    The link to your video is broken. I believe this is the video you intended to show us: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgrZZqdPcrw
  23. 3 points
    Here are a couple of shots from Alan.
  24. 3 points
    I felt like it would be a good idea to intentionally capsize my boat in a controlled environment so I could practice righting the boat. I also wanted to observe to see if there were any modifications I could make to insure that the boat was stable when it was knocked over and I would be able to right the boat. I kept putting this little chore off. I didn't want to break anything. I did not have anyone to help me. I did not want to injury myself or someone else. My nephew was visiting, there was no wind so we decided to give it a go. We both gained some confidence learned a few things and had some fun. And nothing got broken. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y19ckyZNgI
  25. 3 points
    Hi everyone, I'm new here but purchased a Marissa 18 kit back in July. I was finally able to get started and will try to post progress updates as regularly as I can. I'm liking how everything came out from Graham, I can already see the thought and planning that went into it. I'm so glad I got the cnc cut plywood kit, it saved a ton of time already and there's no question on how precise the fit is. So far I have about 20 hours into this project, although quite a few of them were spent visualizing and thinking! Decided to dry fit to see if anything need adjusting and mainly to see the shape. Just starting but so far so good!
  26. 3 points
    Missing from this discussion is analysis of failure modes. We need information on how SOF boats have failed: Did a stringer break? At a frame? Between frames? At a knot? At a joint? What species of wood? Dimensions? Did a frame break? Where? What type of plywood? Dimensions? Did a lashing or other fastening between a stinger and frame fail? This forum might be a way to collect some information of this sort. Then some ideas on where weight can be safely reduced and where to keep things robust can be developed. Paddle on, Andy
  27. 3 points
    Winter Storage: Not a building tip but I thought this tip might be useful for those who keep their boats outside during the winter. When I removed the old skin on one of my kayaks to do a re-skin job I found that mice had built a nest for the winter up in the bow end of the boat and had gnawed about half way through a couple of the stringers. I remembered that when we owned a travel trailer my wife would put dryer sheets in cupboards, drawers, and corners to repel the mice. In many years of outside storage we never once had any sign of mice in the camper. Now I push a few dryer sheets into each end of the boat while I wait for soft water again. Seems to be working.
  28. 3 points
    It has been a long time coming. I have never been happy with the stainless steel external track. Until now it was the only track available. Many years ago, I used to be able to get 5/8 and 7/8 internal track. I have searched long and hard over the years and finally got back to the company that had the original die, but I could not justify the huge cost to do a run. I do not even think it exists anymore. I even modified some cutters and machined some track out of Starboard. It worked very well but was labor intensive and it was a bit bulky. Alan contacted about 10 aluminum extruders and so the work began. We decided that over the years we have used enough track to make the big investment. We began to list all of the properties we wanted and probably drew hundreds of versions before we committed. We wanted it to be strong enough for a 30' boat, but light enough for a Core Sound. The last weekend that I worked on it I was able to save a few more hundreds of an ounce per foot. We realized that we had better get it right or we would have the worlds most expensive recycling. We took a deep breath and invested in having the die made. The company just sent us a 3 foot trial sample, to evaluate before we make the big run. We are really happy with it; it is everything we wanted and hoped for. It is made of 6061 T-6 aluminum which is the same as the spars, so there is no galvanic interaction. It weighs 2.7 oz per foot. The track is clear anodized and pre-drilled for 5/32" countersunk rivets, or #8 flat head machine screws. It also has a V-groove down the center, so if you want/need to add and in-between fastener; or an end of section faster, because your cut length is not at the end of a standard length. It is has a radius on the back side to fit from 6" down to 1 1/2" round spar tubes. It has flat on each side of the edge on the back, so it will also fit flat on a wooden mast, with round or flat sections (box sections). It is much stiffer and straighter than the SS external track and it fits true to the surface (doesn't tilt off), which makes it easier to install. The corners are well radiused to prevent chafe on the sprit. It takes standard 5/8" internal nylon sail slides. The slides slide more easily than on the external track. The best thing of all is that with all these features and advantages it will cost less to our builders (or others) than the ss track. We expect to be able to sell it for about $35.00 per 8' length; vs. $39.00 for a slightly under 6' section of ss 5/8" track. After a lot of soul searching, we decided on 8' lengths so we can ship FedEx. The picture shows the track on a 1 1/2" tube with a nylon slide.
  29. 3 points
    Rather than hijack the mk2 thread I will start a new one. Chick asked that I post some pictures of the mk3. I started on a cabin version of the CS17 at least 5 years ago. I got involved in the big cat project and shelved it for a while. One night after work I was showing Alan some drawings that never made it. When we came upon the CS17 with the raised deck, Alan became excited by it's potential. I cyber dusted off the oiginal drawings and imported them into Rhino and modified them a bit to fit my current thinking. Then I thought, this might work on the CS20. The CS20 mk3 was born. Here are a couple of views of her.
  30. 3 points
    Hi everyone, Good day to everyone we are joining from south cost of Turkey. We two amateurs we start to built OC 20 and any comments negative or positive highly appreciated.. Thanks to everyone and safe voyages. I should say from this part of the world Graham and Carla they are both great people and they are very helpful.
  31. 3 points
    Travis, It is not hard to drill out the rivets to remove the old track and it is fairly easy to remove the old slides and sew on the new ones but it is tedious. The expedient way would be to just shackle the slides to the sails, I prefer the webbing method. That being said, I do not expect everyone to rush out change their tracks because it does work, just not as smooth. I am going to change out Southern Skimmer's track, I am using the excuse that it is R&D. David, I think that it is a good idea to supply the rivets with the track. We are sending one of our rivets to the machine shop to make sure that it is a match. Howard, I do not think that aluminum rivets are strong enough. I know that you are thinking about corrosion. If you put some goop on each rivet it helps. SS and aluminum are not far apart on the galvanic scale. You always want the fastener to be slightly more noble than the mass so that it will be protected. Aluminum on aluminum will corrode if it stays wet. I will be caulking the track to the mast as well just to keep moisture from corroding under the track.
  32. 3 points
    Thanks again for every ones wishes and concern. Carla was released on Monday and tonight she looked the best that she has been since the surgery. She has been up and down before but if she does not slip back over the next couple of days I am confident that she will be past the worst.
  33. 3 points
    I talked with Graham this afternoon. Carla is back in the hospital with what ever the infection is she has. It is making it rouph on Graham. You can tell in his voice he is worried about his wife. He is a awfully good man to help us build our boats and take time to talk to us. We need to pray for him as well as Carla. When ever I go work in the boat I just stop and pray for both of them and I can not wait till I hear she is home and on the mend Stop for a moment and pray for both of them I DO NOT THINK GRAHAM WANT TO BURDEN US WITH HIS TROUBLES BUT WHAT ARE FRIEND AND CO-WORKERS FOR. Thanks
  34. 3 points
    Thanks again for all of the well wishes. Since yesterday there has been quite a turn around. She is starting to eat again and able to keep it down. We are quite optimistic.
  35. 3 points
    I want to thank everyone for their support and well wishes. Carla got out of surgery at around 5 pm yesterday. The doctor said that everything went well. Marissa and I drove home after they moved her from the post-op to a room. She as alert and able to communicate and all of her vitals looked good. Beth is staying with her. She can come home in three to five days depending on her recovery rate. The bad news is that they were originally going to repair the upper and lower spine at the same time but decided the the upper was so bad that they addressed it first and she will have to go back for a second round once they deem her to be ready. She will be convalescing for a long time. Marissa is home from college and will be running the office as best as she can. I want to thank everyone in advance for their patience.
  36. 3 points
    I will second those Core Sound boats. Lots of boat, there. Also, Richard, people DO build SOF sailboats. They also build sailboats from plastic bottles, and concrete. Dave is right about a good sailboat. It makes sailing fun. So do good sails. I have built some turds. Don't break too many rules until you learn them fairly well. That pointy triangle boat looks like a death trap. I'd want my buoyancy further forward. Then again, what do I know? I never listen. Just ask my mom, or wife, or kids...
  37. 3 points
    Hi Matt I have glued the last layer on my keel today, just about done. As far as the stem goes, I have as many as 3 joints in the 3 layers. As long as you stagger the joints as much as possible you should be good. I glued the doublers on the frames as they where being fabricated. I cut the transom layers from a template, then laminated the layers on the transom jig as per blueprint. I will try to attach a couple of pictures of my keel. Greg
  38. 3 points
    I have just about finished making the first CS17 mk3 kit, I made the centerboard today. I am working on final tweaking and finishing up the plans and should have them available soon. There is a lot of detail and it takes time to get it all together. I have been sneaking in a few duplicate parts so that I can have one.
  39. 3 points
    Long boards come in various shapes, lengths and sizes, usually geared to match the job. A 1/2" plywood board is too stiff for most boats, except in large expanses of relatively flat areas. I've got a number of boards, one of my favorites is made from 1/8" Lexan. It's 4" wide, about 20" long and fairly flexible, so I can work compound curves. I have ones that are 1/8" and 1/4" plywood too and even one made from 14 gauge aluminum sheet. I buy paper on rolls and cut to length, using a spray adhesive to mount them, though you can just as easily use a clip or slot at each end, to hold the paper to the board. Technique is key with a boogie board (board-'o-pain). Typically you work from one end of the area (or hull side) in a single direction, across it's full length. You select an appropriate angle, which often seems to be about 30 degrees to the centerline and stroke the board at this angle the full length of the area. All strokes are at this angle, leaving a series of angled scratches. You then come back at the opposite angle, in the other direction, netting a cross hatched pattern of scratches. The low spots will be clearly visible, not having scratches in them and the high spots will be knocked down a touch. At this point, you mark the low spots and apply a little filler in these areas. The next pass with the torture board is focused on the now filled low spots, so you can knock them down to surrounding areas. I often use a very light dusting of primer at this point to fine tune the surface and help see what needs what. Again, working a common angle, you run from one end, to the other, placing a new diagonal scratch pattern and come back on the reciprocal angle for the cross hatch pattern. Each pass will continue to knock down the high spots and reveal the lows you've missed on previous passes. A pro will make three passes with the cross hatched, long board pattern. The first to find the lows, the second to knock the lows back once filled and the final pass, to even everything up. The backyard fairer, can make a career out of this process, with many passes and filling sessions. The more you work this set of steps, the fairer and smoother the hull will be. The same process is used with paint, if you want a baby's butt surface, just with finer grits, usually wet. It helps a lot to have the right lighting for this process. You can have too much light, particularly if it's directly over head. You want a low angle of light, so you can see the shadows in the low spots. The biggest mistakes novices make are not using a long board, thinking a palm sander or orbital will do and over working the surface. The Harbor Freight "in line sander" linked above shouldn't be used. It will remove material at an alarming rate and it's not flexible enough to conform to curved surfaces. That particular Harbor Fright tool is a single piston design and you'll be in serious pain, with just a 1/2 hour of use. It's a real piece of crap and if you want one, get a duel action/piston design so it doesn't tear your elbows off. Try not to get aggressive with material removal, just lightly scratch the surface, so you can see what's high and what needs to be filled. On plywood hulls you'll bring the lows up to the highs for the most part, so skim coat the lows with some filler and knock these filled areas back locally at first, then with the long board passes. A jitter bug (palm sander), DA or orbital sander will not fair a surface, just smooth it. Fairing and smoothing operations are wholly different. The long board fairs. Once the surface is fair, then you can move onto smoothing operations. Fair is what you can see, while smooth is what you feel. A surface can be smooth, but quite unfair. A dent in a car door is a classic example of this. The dent can be polished and really smooth, but the light reflection will clearly show it's not fair.
  40. 3 points
    We waved farewell to Doug today as he drove off with his new Mk3. We were happy to get her out of the shop to get a good look at her rather than being too close all of the time. I feel that she more than met my expectations and you can still see the Core Sound heritage. There is decent headroom, without the trunk cabin. It is very comfortable laying back against the hull, at 5' 7" sitting as tall as I could, my head was not touching the deck. I think that a 6 footer could find a comfortable position.
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
    More photos. More photos.
  43. 3 points
    Hi folks, some pics of P26 #20 leaving the shed a few days ago after two years in the building. She now has the keel attached and I have some room to start on masts. Cheers
  44. 2 points
    Hi "Ribs," Like you, I put some time and effort into my first fairing board. Then I realized that it'd be good to have several fairing boards on hand with different grades of sandpaper. I ended up being very happy with dead simple fairing boards that are nothing but rectangles of pink insulation foam board. I used adhesive sandpaper that comes in rolls, but it's the same idea as your split sheets. The foam is stiff, but flexes over the curves and it's very light. It worked for me to grip the boards across their edges, but I'll admit that might not be comfortable for those with smaller hands. My 80 grit board gets used a lot where I used to use a rasp for rounding off corners etc. It works faster and the big pink board is way easier to find! Bob
  45. 2 points
    Chick, now that is funny......you will probably build another boat before I finish!
  46. 2 points
    Some progress shots. Console fitted, wiring and systems ready for final connection. Working on T Top but it is not photo worthy yet. Enjoying working outside where you can actually stand up occasionally.
  47. 2 points
    Main mast raised and mizzen stepped for the first time at the canvas shop. No hitches. And they look very close to being pararllel. "Chessie" will be there for about a week while she's measured and fitted for cabin cushions and a [no] boom tent. I'll be able to do family tax returns, earn some $$, read a book, dream of cruising with "Chessie," lightly tackle the honey-do list, etc.
  48. 2 points
    Mizzen mast as a ridge pole is an interesting idea that I hadn't considered. My first thought is that it would be too much for set-up and tear down having to deal with the mast, sail, sprit, downhaul, snotter, etc. My current setup (CS17) is like a boom tent but just using a line instead of a rigid peak. The line hooks low on the main mast and rises to the snotter eye on the mizzen mast. PVC conduit stiffens the trailing edge against the mizzen mast. (Picture attached (I think)). I've spent a couple of rainy nights with this setup and it works better than I expected. Setup is probably less than half of the time it takes me to setup my land tend. I do carry a simple bivy sack in case I need more rain/wind protection. I am debating on whether to improve on this design or proceed with the dodger/soft cabin idea that I have been mulling over for a while. It would be good to have something to extend aft of the mizzen mast because my head tends to lie on the center thwart.
  49. 2 points
    It has been a long time coming. We have finally started prototyping the CS20 kit. I am calling it mark 2 because I have done a major revision in preparation for the tool pathing for kit production. I have had a lot of requests for a cuddy cabin and a self draining cockpit. I raised the freeboard 2" and gave her more deadrise. The extra freeboard helps the make the cabin work better and allows the cockpit to be raised allowing us to fit water ballast. It also raises the point of vanishing stability which will be further enhanced with ballast. Here she is.
  50. 2 points
    Mike, Here are a few photos of 'Salty'. See attached. Hope this answers your question about the steering system. I apologize for the poor quality of the port side shot. dale

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