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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So I spent a week on the Chesapeake. One part of the trip was the MASCF trip to Wye Island. Here is a video of the adventure. If you don't have patience, at least head to the 2:30 mark. Lot's of fun! What a boat. I couldn't be happier. https://youtu.be/KOrlYOOprYw
  2. 2 points
    I hadn't realized what a challenge spaghetti lines in the cockpit were til I started practicing donuts (sailing tight circles around a buoy to improve boat handling skills. Get so you can do tight circles in 15 kts of wind to build your confidence. Still working on it.) I kept getting strangled, or tripped, or glasses torn off by spare lines as I ducked under to grab the far rail. I tried velcro tabs, but switched to this - a couple of washers with a stand-off between. Works better than the velcro for me, but still not completely satisfied. Here's how I'm locking the cabin - I've sleeved the thru-hole with some SS tubing to make it a bit more durable. I really like trailering with the sprits atop the masts - it's quicker to rig and the straps tighten up the masts while we're on the road. As nice as Graham's were, the layout looked like too much work. Mine look like pook, but they work ok and were simpler to make. So, most of you will be horrified by my anchor roller, but I like it. I think it weighs something close to 2 lbs, but that's a mere fraction of the weight of 15' of chain in the anchor locker. It keeps the anchor solidly fixed in place, and I can launch it from the cockpit. I keep it tethered like this underway and trailering. And I've just run a line back to the cockpit that I can use to pop off the tether. I'll 'arm' it before coming in to anchor and cleat the rode off at, say, 50'. Haven't actually used this yet, but from the cockpit I'll be able to ease up to the anchorage and let it go. Peg and I were recently in the San Juans. It was beautiful (altho the arrangement above would have been helpful). But 10' tidal differences are common here. This lagoon actually dried out to the rock you see on the right. We moved the boat before that, but I'd beached Deluge at high tide in the new spot in a direct on-shore 15 kt breeze, and really hadn't sorted out in my head how you do clothesline anchoring. In any case, I was going to need Peg to help me anchor, and nor could I figure out how to get off the beach with her in the boat. Here's the result - water wasn't high enough to re-launch til 5pm the next day. (We had a Great time.) I did eventually get something worked out: But here's how I plan to do it from now on. This may be risky, but seems to me the risk is fairly small for over nights - to use a quick link in place of the standard horseshoe shackle. With it, I can quickly change the configuration between shackling the rode directly to the chain (for regular anchoring), and running the rode thru the link (for clothesline). Regular anchoring: and for clothesline anchoring:
  3. 2 points
    As Deluge emerges from newborn to toddler-dom, it seems like time to update things a bit, with items that I haven't seen elsewhere but that seem to be working for me. She'd been in the water less than a dozen times when the CB pendant broke; an epoxy spur I'd left in the pendant path had shredded the line. I replaced it with one made of dynema after cleaning things up. I had to splice it in place, but fortunately it's really easy to splice the stuff. The challenge is the stopper knot - it's so slippery it's likely to slip off the end. The fibers, it turns out, are quick to absorb epoxy, so the solution is pretty simple. This is just an overhand knot I'd filled with epoxy inside a piece of PVC pipe. This didn't fit, so, gulp, I just ground it down till it did. I'm convinced it's plenty strong enough for the job. In fact, I don't bother with the fancy knot they tie on the internet for soft shackles, I just do this: The little rigging balls make nice 'stopper knots' and it's easier to make your shackle exactly the length you want it to be. I keep adding epoxy to the fur until it can't take any more, and I tie rigging twine at the neck to keep the epoxy from wicking down below the ball. It wasn't long after launch that I'd bashed my transom with the rudder, since I had no rudder stops. I just made a very simple set with starboard and they've worked well. These, or something like them, are now probably on the drawings: I've been impressed by how much the trailer and boat bounce around on Seattle's roads (they're often in terrible shape), and realized that the CB is bouncing around even more, secured only by the pendant (the CB slot doesn't align with my trailer bunks). So I put in a pedestal, capped with starboard, to keep the board from bouncing around when trailering. Graham used a fixed bolt to secure his main mast, and I got a couple of the one-legged nuts he uses for it, but it turned out to be easier for me to bolt the mast from the front. I can manage everything from the foredeck, and for whatever reason, it was easier for me to build. The T bolt was my first shot at silver solder - a mysterious alchemy that had long intimidated me. It was pretty much like regular soldering only higher heat. This is the aluminum receptacle - it's just tapped for the 5/16" bolt, and fixed in place with a couple of screws.
  4. 2 points
    Taking action videos singlehanded is difficult, but here's a stab. I was on the great big pond at East Harbor Campground, Catawba Island, Ohio. Plans to go out on Lake Erie thwarted by headwinds, high winds, surf in channel. Speeds I'm reading are in mph, mostly 6-point-something. Note there's a reef in. Starting from hove-to. What a boat. 20190825_155747.mp4
  5. 2 points
    Justin, Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able to slide the boat around the garage. For cleaning up that epoxy squeeze out, a "mini-grinder" with a heavy grit sandpaper disk like 36 grit is an essential tool at our shop. It will make quick work of the majority of those cured epoxy blobs just be real careful not to gouge the panel and do the final 1/16" with a block of sandpaper or a flat machine sander like a 1/2" sheet sander or random orbit. Looking forward to seeing her folded up!
  6. 2 points
    More mods: Installed a GPS holder using RAM mounts (highly recommend RAM mounts, the swivel balls aren't just plastic; they have an aluminum core, and the GPS mount has little roller bearings that ease insertion/removal of the unit). My awesome wife sewed up an organizer for the cabin bulkhead. It was so useful last time we went sailing we are going to install one on the starboard side as well. As you are sitting in the cockpit with your back against the bulkhead, you can reach in and grab what you need without having to get up and go in the cabin.
  7. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  8. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  9. 2 points
    I started out in a competitive Windmill racing fleet before I really knew how to sail. Had read all the library books on sailing boats but in 1966, that was not very many. In our first couple races with Liz as my crew, we dumped in blustery conditions at the leeward mark. The early Windmill was completely open and did not have any flotation other than the wood in the boat so flipping it back up and sailing on was out of the question. I was able to bring it back vertical with tons of water inside and tossed out the anchor which brought the boat head to wind. With Liz hanging on to one rail, I bailed with a bucket until the water was below the daggerboard slot and climbed aboard to get more water out. Finally I was able to pull my long suffering crew aboard and hauled the anchor. We finished the race and and Liz asked me if that was the worse that could happen. After I assured her that a capsize was about it, she said "well I won't worry any more" and we went on to years of more racing capsizes, some easier, some worse and a few much more difficult. The experience gained from easy situations stood in good stead whenever Murphy decided to try new tests of our skills. After this episode, I installed port and starboard air bags that allowed for much easier recovery. One crazy capsize occurred in a regatta in Chick's back yard at a small lake just south of Asheville on the first week of November. While attempting to get relief from very blustery wind, I sailed into a downwind cove. I immediately saw that this was a stupid thing to do as the wind remained high as well as having large shifts side to side in the cove. Managed to tack around but one shift just flipped the boat over. My boat "Don Quixote" rolled mast down and on through a 360 and came back upright. By this time the capsize practice paid off and I just walked the boat all the way over and stepped back inside, where the water finally came over the top of my boots and got my feet wet for the first time. The lake is cooling water for a power plant and is so tepid that tropical fish live there. Of course on the first of November, the air is cold and we sailed back to the club dock for my crew to get out and dry out in the warm clubhouse. I was ashamed to admit to my crew that I was all dry and he may have never forgiven me. Many capsizes in Lasers and many other boats came along at regular intervals while racing. It is a general truth that if you do not capsize from time to time in a high performance boat while racing, you are probably not sailing on the edge that is necessary to win. A boat can go under water with out a normal capsize. Racing against Graham in frostbite races in Spindrift 10s, I sailed the boat under the water down wind in strong wind. With the sail of a Spindrift so far forward, the pressure overcame my ballast sitting on the transom and just went under a wave. Graham just looked over at my swamped boat as he sailed by and won the race. In all 50 plus years since 1966, I have never capsized when not racing. Capsize drills, like all drills are intended to make the real thing less serious and allow you to follow your training and do what is necessary without having to think for the first time about how to go about it.
  10. 2 points
    On my DAYsailer, I have a portable LED system. 99% of the time, I’m home eating supper before the sun goes down. But if I’m doing some twilight fishing, for example, these come out. The mounts are already in place. All I have to do is clip them into their mounting brackets (not the suction cups!), and turn them on. If/when I get to doing some camp cruising, I’ll hoist a handheld lamp aloft. I guess it all depends on how often you will use them. Now, mind you, if I had a mark III, I might have to rethink my strategy. But I’m trying to employ the KISS (Keep It Simple, Silsbe) method.
  11. 2 points
    Taking advantage of the unusually warm fall we're having... I managed to get my Curlew into a natural body of water for the first time.
  12. 2 points
    Our sails are still of the sleeve luff variety. We opted for the third mast position mainly because it was there so why not. With the main mast completely down windage is reduced which was much needed sailing upwind in about 28 knots in the Newport river. Spray was booming off the bow and blowing back about 3 boat lengths in the wind. It was very wet and still very controllable. The anderson bailer kept up with water removal perfectly. I've always just sailed the reefed mizzen in its standard position but we had a calm anchorage to re-rig the boat so we took advantage of it. Conditions were very tough this year.
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    After reading all this good advice all I should probably add is - Don't Panic! Take it one step at a time and remember that if you mess anything up (like I frequently do) you can likely undo it with the judicious application of a sharp tool. If you look at it as a big overhaul of a boat hull it may seem intimidating but if you think of it as cutting out a flat piece of wood and replacing it (and then doing it again until you're done) it might be less daunting. Don't forget to come back here with pictures and questions. And you thought nobody was listening
  15. 2 points
    Is it really that much more mild this winter? Seem to remember drifts of snow surrounding your last project. Dories and skiffs always shock me with how darn lovely they are. Peace, Robert
  16. 2 points
    The farther south he gets the warmer and nicer it will be on the outside. Lower temp and contrary wind of course have kept him in the waterway thus far. He has no plans to go outside but I'm sure he is watching the winds and temp closely to see if he has a bout of fair wind and calm seas that he could do a longer run and make use of that windvane.
  17. 2 points
    I'm also looking forward to making a boom tent. On the "unmarked" Core Sounds, it looks like most of the living space is under the mizzen sprit and the aft half of the main. Have you considered using the mizzen sprit as a ridge pole for the aft half of your tent and then supporting the fore part with a line running from the mizzen snotter to the base of the main mast? The aft end of the sprit/ridge pole could be supported either by the haliard or by a boom crutch. I think the best advice I have picked up is to make a trial tent out of polytarp and see what works before investing in expensive "real" material.
  18. 2 points
    My cheap but effective rope ladder
  19. 2 points
    I can hear it now Robert - "mom, did dad really have that small of hands or what . . . ?
  20. 2 points
    Once epoxy cures fully, which takes about 2 weeks (depending on formulation), it is inert. It's so inert that implanted devices, such as pacemaker wiring and the like, are sealed with epoxy. The problem most have is they sand dry, but not fully cured goo, which places still chemically active particulates into the air, which get sucked into lungs and they imbed into mucus membranes, which is a beeline to the brain (the first place blood goes from the lungs). A good particulate mask is all you need, unless working with it 8 hours a day, as a career. Technically, it's possible to absorb really fine particulates through the skin, though you really have to work at it, such as mash it into open cuts. The digestive systems handles it pretty well and some brands are more tasty than others, but avoid eating the liquid state stuff. Currently, I don't know of any bisphenol free marine epoxy formulations commonly available. The stuff you're using is formulated to be less allergic to some that are sensitized, but it's still a bisphenol resin, with a modified amine cure. Most folks building a boat in their backyard have nothing to worry about, especially if using reasonable precautions, like gloves and a mask. It generally take many years of exposure to develop sensitivity. I've been working goo since the 80's and only have a very slight sensitivity and only to certain brands, typically their hardeners. Avoiding these brands has eliminated any issues. Compared to polyester and vinylester resin systems, the epoxy health issues are modest, again assuming reasonable precautions are taken. This said, some seem more susceptible to epoxy than others and I seem to be one of the lucky ones. If you are more susceptible, change brands or try the new DWX stuff from Chuck (nice guy BTW) over at DuckWorks. There's no guarantees, but usually just switching brands can help a lot, for most. For the most part, the BPA worries that have cropped up in recent years are from some testing results done in the 90's and ought years. In these tests they force fed some mice (or rabbits or whatever) extremely high does of straight up BPA laden materials and guess what, they got some issues in time. I can assure you that if you were caged and force fed nothing but straight up strawberries, you'd have issues too, though banning strawberries isn't going to happen anytime soon. My point is, don't get too excited about some of these tests. More often than not, they prove to be false alarms. 20 years ago, coffee wasn't good for you, but now it is and the same can be said about pregnant women drinking red wine, so if you use reasonable procedures, you'll probably be just fine, plus you can get your antioxidants from your morning coffee and an after dinner buzz, with your wife's wine too.
  21. 2 points
    Today Peggy-O changed hands! Her new owner, Bill H, should get great enjoyment from this boat, and I hope that he does. Bill has entered the EC and Blackbeard Challenge several times in a "kayak with a sail" so he knows what he is doing. I hope to see some of you at the EC this year. I plan to go for the set-up day March 4 and the start to cheer Graham and some of you on..... Thanks for all your support over last couple years! Lennie
  22. 2 points
    After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.
  23. 2 points
    I built my CS 17 'Lively' in 2007 and have sailed her solo most of the time. I do beach camping for a few days at a time. I had a canvas cabin made for her and it works very well with almost too much headroom. I made a conscious decision to go for a lot of headroom which I have since regretted because I cannot sail with the cabin up. So I would recommend the CS 17 III or a CS 17 with a canvas cabin that is low enough to sail with it up. I love my CS 17 and have sailed her solo in winds from 0 to 25 knots and felt confident at all speeds. I have double reefs set up on the sails. If money is a concern, the 17 with canvas cabin would definitely be less expensive. Someone mentioned it but I want to emphasize that trailer launching and retrieval should definitely be a consideration. I don't like to think about it much but your physical condition and not your age should be considered also. I am 75 but am in good physical condition so far. I am not sure I would want to deal with the larger boats. Graham knows how to design a boat. Any of his boats would satisfy your needs. See the photos with my cabin.
  24. 2 points
    Just finished a Curlew for my wife... Couldn't find any decent WRC locally, but I was able to get some really nice, knot-free, straight grained cypress in 16' lengths from a local mill. No scarfing required! The leftovers from milling the gunwales and stingers worked very nicely for the laminated coaming as well. No actual "launch" photos, however- I learned the hard way not to go anywhere near the water with my phone- but the boat performed perfectly and she loves it, her only other kayaking experiences have been in big 'ol roto-molded plastic boats. I'm told this is a major improvement over those.
  25. 2 points
    Two of us paddled it 200 lbs. in back and 150 lbs. In the front seat, is stable and tracks well.... It paddled great for my 265 lb. friend... Table Rock Lake.
  26. 2 points
    MM, Yes we have done tabernacles in the CS17 and CS15's. I do not bother for the mizzen because it is a lot safer than going onto the foredeck. There have been times when I thought that I was in training for tossing the caber.
  27. 2 points
    Thats okay Scott, different strokes etc.. My oars have never failed to start on the fist stroke.
  28. 1 point
    Amos, I cannot tell a lie, I have been using lifts on Carlita. Rather than rig special topping lifts, I already have enough clutter, I have been using the mizzen staysail halyard for the mizzen lift. On the main I am using about 4' of 5/32" line with a small S-hook at the bottom attached to the forward side of the mizzen mast at the right height so that I can slip the S-hook thru an eye at the aft end of the main sprit. The main lift tends to be self centering and stays put when I tighten the main sheet. If the mizzen starts to dance around at anchor I run a line thru the spinnaker block on top of the coaming aft over to the sprit. This triangulates with the lift and mizzen sheet and the system is rock solid. If it got bad enough to bother the main sprit I could do something like I do with the mizzen. For a quiet night at anchor I make sure that the centerboard is hauled up tight and all halyards are tied away from the mast.
  29. 1 point
    If you tell Graham not to notice, then he won't. Carlita might though. I learned a little secret. If ya don't tell anyone about your boo-boos, they probably will never know.
  30. 1 point
    The bunks are just for balancing, so a little flex is actually good. The 2x4s on my trialer for my 15'-8" Lapwing flex just enough to hug a bit of curve when pressure is exerted. 2x6s seems right for a 20 foot boat. The spacing of the brackets will effect flex a lot too. Mine are covered in PVC instead of carpet, easy to slide.
  31. 1 point
    Very impressive Pete. I think you have set a high standard with some very practical ideas.
  32. 1 point
    I usually tack weld between the ties so that I can remove the ties without messing with hardened epoxy on either Ip ties or tie wire. One advantage with zip ties where they are strong enough to do the job is that sometimes you need to epoxy them in such as a corner that has a lot of tension and there is not enough space to avoid getting epoxy on them, just cut them smooth and leave them in.
  33. 1 point
    well, and also Lefty's Deceivers
  34. 1 point
    You guys kill me! Everyone says "I love my Suzuki", and then go on to tell about all the hydro-lock problems you're having. What sort of experience would it take for you to NOT like your 'zuki? I would like to hear more about that new Yamaha 2.5. Anybody?
  35. 1 point
    Yes, yes!Aren't the shapes so lovely? It reminds me of sculpted stone, like a banister or cornice on an old building. I learn stuff all the time... Peace, Robert
  36. 1 point
    I made a block that is notched and as thick as the pintles to provide a spacer to accommodate the motor. My Honda 2opens plenty wide to allow the spacer. But it's either sailing/rowing, or motoring/rowing, but no motor/sailing.
  37. 1 point
    My dad and I flipped the CS20 in about 20 knots. (sorry no video) during the BBC I think 2 years ago. We had 1/2 centerboard down gong through some shallows and did a tack too fast and overshot a bit and boom over it went. My Dad went swimming but I managed to swing over the top right on to the side of the hull that was now up in the air thanks to dinghy racing reflexes (not sure how I did it really). To my HORROR I watched the centerboard swing back into the boat as she settled on the bouancy of the cabin and masts. Fortunately we have a keel strip but the dang thing is only 7/8" wide with the hollow back on. My toes have never clung so hard to a piece of wood and I tried to channel my inner rock climber skills. I figured I had one shot with my leatherman pliers to grab the CB and get it out. Of course I had forgot to tie off the leatherman when I packed it in my lifejacket so as punishment, i had to use it over water with one chance if it went flying out of my hand. Anyway, I clung to the keel hand on the chine and started to reach down for the board when the boat started to right itself. She flipped back up right with full sail in 20 knots and the CB completely up and just me standing on the keel strip. I was amazed and relieved. My dad was floating at the stern the whole time. I almost lost my leatherman from being startled that the boat was righting as I was hunched on the keel. Show me someone doing that on any other boat and I'll be impressed. I guess I'll have to do a video and prove it. -Alan
  38. 1 point
    Unless you make asymmetrical daggerboards I don't see them doing anything at all and nothing you describe except lift. And the lift you would get from asymmetrical boards would seem hardly worth it in a dinghy. The biggest issue I see sailing would be the raised board fouling the vang and getting in the way. 11 feet is a small boat.
  39. 1 point
    When installing this type of bailer, I like to route out a very shallow pocket, for the flange and bedding to live in. In most cases you don't have to cut all the way through the outer veneer layer in the plywood, to do this and the result has the bailer flush with the inside of the boat, so all the water can be evacuated, without a pool of wetness lounging around the flange and bedding. In the live well image above, the bailers are being used differently than typical on a sailboat and the well is drained through a conventional PVC fitting. I use a different approach for this too. Instead of a fitting that forces the outlet above the bottom, because of the flange, I use a transom tube, mounted at a slight angle. I hammer the bottom of the transom tube flange flat, so it can lie on the bottom flush, often in a shallow divot I plow out with a DA. This is epoxied in place and I use a standard transom plug to seal the tube in use. Because of the shallow divot, just in front of the tube and the angle, the entire contents are permitted to drain off, no puddles. This is a sailboat with this treatment. The drain is in the king post at the back of the centerboard case, taking advantage of the existing slot in the bottom of the boat. It's hard to see in this image, but the tube is angled down to drain into the case and the transom plug is slightly below the inside of the hull bottom. This was my solution to a garboard drain, which on this boat would have required two, one on each side of the case, if they were traditional garboard drains.
  40. 1 point
    No kidding! Check out some of the weather these guys sailed through. http://r2ak.com/video-photos/
  41. 1 point
    Thank you very much for the additional data Tom. Really want to go electric on my 15' cat ketch. Easily driven hull 350# + 800# crew and gear = 1150-1250#. Hope to use your numbers to help plan speed and endurance projections with a maybe a great white 50 and 1-2 20-25# lithiums. Rick
  42. 1 point
    Congratulations Peter. Absolutely beautiful! To those who might wonder (including the builder) why someone would build their own boat, that is why. The emotion when she slides off that trailer and floats can be felt but cannot be described. Nothing quite like it. PS: I will be in Norfolk in August. Just saying.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words everyone. I don't have any underway pictures because all my picture-takers were on board. Sorry about that. I'll post some performance numbers after the engine is broken in. As of now, it planes at about 4100 RPM and that's where I like to run it. Haven't really run wide open yet. I'll be running mainly on Hartwell and Keowee, Chick.
  44. 1 point
    Great progress! If you are using an iPhone or IPad keep the "home" button ( slightly indented button on bottom of phone) on your RIGHT when taking a picture, and then they won't get inverted. Otherwise, don't worry, Chick just lays sideways on his desk to look at pictures.
  45. 1 point
    I certainly wouldn't be substituting a brass strip on the keel for the rope trick mentioned above.
  46. 1 point
    Graham, Carla and Beth, thanks for another great B&B Mess-About. Loved the bluegrass band. Randy and Bobby, thanks for the hospitality, grits and chili! Here is the YouTube video of the self-righting demonstration / test....
  47. 1 point
    410 is really soft. I will sometimes add some to 407 if I will have to do a lot of sanding, but I keep it to a minimum.
  48. 1 point
    Actually there are a few adhesive (and glues) that pass the "type 1" WBP test. TiteBond III passes this test, but this test is flawed and TiteBond III just barely passes, because of the way it's conducted. Epoxies can be formulated to pass this test too, but the "usual suspects" of retail available, marine grade epoxies don't. This simply means you shouldn't anchor your wood/epoxy yacht over active underwater volcanoes, but other wise is a poor indication of real "waterproofness". The only thing a scarf should do is make a couple of smaller pieces act (pretty much) as a single larger piece might. There are practical, mostly obvious reasons for this, but when joined, the pieces should have similar bending, tension, compressive, etc. properties as a single piece of the same dimensions. Lashings will defeat the point of using a scarf and most any joint will do in this case, preferably one that accepts movement better than a scarf, such as a self aligning and/or self capturing type of joint. 5 minute epoxies are real compromises in physical properties, because of the cure time requirement. They're about useless on a boat, unless you need to stick a broken countertop fiddle back on or similar.
  49. 1 point
    Steve, she is 46-48" at the tallest point.
  50. 1 point
    We took the Ten-Tom route and arrived in Mobile a couple of days before Christmas, about 75 days from our start, met with family, and then went over to Slidell, north of New Orleans on Lake Pontchartrain. We left the boat there over the hot-hot summer and came back to Michigan for some contract work. In the fall we headed back on board and then went on the inter-coastal to Florida. After a hellish trip across the gulf, we stopped in Tampa for a while, the keys, and then came back up the east coast and have stayed in Michigan since. I sold the Nauticat a couple of years ago. She's in Oregon now and has been to Alaska without me. It was all a great experience, one of my best. By the way, my girlfriend is still with me though there were some problems when I asked her to jump from the bow to the pier with a line once. Bill


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