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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2011 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I have used this feature a number of times. But today I saw my first like by someone else. I can't say no one else uses this feature, but as thoroughly as I read this forum I can't imagine too many likes got past me. The most common reasons I have for using the like feature is to show support for a good technical post without saying the same things again when some one else has already said them well in the first place. Also I use it to simply provide a positive reply for cool pictures and acknowledge that I enjoyed them. Anyway, I just thought it strange how little the feature is used. Not to imply written replies need to be limited, just a curiosity of mine.
  2. 4 points
    I had the new wind vane out in fresh conditions yesterday. I think that this is the one, it took everything that I could throw at it and it did the job. I had a reef in each sail and had the rail down a number of times. She went up wind and down as well as a couple of planing reaches. As Alan said the first vane took up too much real estate in it's place and the only place that I could find to stow it was in the cabin and lashed along side my berth. There were other gripes, the clutch was too complicated for the home builder to make and was awkward to use requiring two hands at the back of the boat to use for the course adjustment and it was too easy to move it too much. The new vane stow easily in the hatches. I was always concerned about the vane getting damaged, I did step on and bend it, but the wood ones are cheap light and it is easy to have a couple on board. We have had numerous requests for plans and I am now satisfied with the new version enough to go ahead with the plans. I am leaving on Wednesday to do the Texas 200 solo so I will wait to see if any issues crop up during the trip. The new design is making maximum use of wood and epoxy over metal and welding which will be more familiar to builders. The yoke and tube is glass and epoxy and the course setting wheel will be layers of plywood.
  3. 4 points
    When applying goo and fabric overhead, a builder with a significant bald spot has the advantage of using it as a squeegee, to hold and smooth the cloth, without the usual bad hair day. Apply a PVA first for easier clean up afterward.
  4. 4 points
    I may have missed other posts relating to future plans for B&B Yacht Design, but I noticed this entry from Graham on another thread and thought that it deserved it's own thread. I want to applaud Graham and Carla, first for their commitment and innovation to boat design and building, and second for their foresight and good fortune in bringing Alan and Beth into the business. I also want to thank and congratulate Alan and Beth for keeping this wonderful enterprise alive.
  5. 4 points
    I talked with Carla yesterday. She is doing MUCH better. She is off of anti-biotics now and the infection is gone. She has 5 sets of plates, screws, and rods in her neck, but---this is hard to believe---she has a full range of motion!. And NO PAIN! She is able to eat normally now, and it "all comes out the way it is supposed too." She has lost a lot of weight through her ordeal. She feels good but is still very weak. Her main job now is to build up her strength and endurance to the point that she can begin physical therapy. She still has more surgery to come on her lower back. (Still pain in her lower back, That was where she was originally supposed to have the surgery until tests indicated a very dangerous situation in her neck.) This will happen, maybe, in December. She is back in he office trying to get everything back on track---including Graham. Her computer went down just as she got back, and they went through a period when the phone system was "off line". Who did I just hear saying "When it rains, it pours."? Beth was a great help in getting out plans and such. Carla is very thankful to all of of you for your concerns, well wishes, and prayers. She said that there were literally thousands of people, church groups, and friends praying for her, and she credits this for her recovery from a very dangerous and trying situation. Thank you to all of you. And most of all, thanks to God!
  6. 4 points
    Here are a couple of newer pictures. We are hoping to be sailing at the messabout.
  7. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  8. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Not much has really changed, I've just been sanding. But I finally bought a new phone and have a clear photo.
  9. 3 points
    I recently finished my Stonefly canoe and waiting for the ice to melt to see how well she handles.
  10. 3 points
    Forgive me, Stareed, but I finally dug up these photos. Get out the Kleenex!
  11. 3 points
    Couple more pictures. Shows the kayak closer, so you get better idea how it looks. Deck rigging is going to get done before spring.
  12. 3 points
    I enjoyed building my Long Shot so much that I convinced my brother to buy the materials so I could build one for him. Now we get to paddle together. I started building on June 12, 2017 and finished it on September 03, 2017. The first photo is my brother, Robert, taking delivery of his blue Long Shot. I have also added photos of my two Long Shot sisters. Please don't ask me to donate the labor to build one for you. It's quite a commitment. CJH.
  13. 3 points
    As was noted to me recently by another builder, some of the best examples of boats are built by amateurs with serious skills and no price point restraints, in terms of their craftsmanship. Many of these "works of art" are simply a reflection of their piano builders nature, but most are by folks that love their work, enjoy doing it and understand that an extra hour or two fine tuning something, isn't really that costly on this particular project.
  14. 3 points
    Here's a closeup of the final surface. This is with one coat of undiluted Totalboat primer and one coat of thinned Brightside topcoat. I'll stop applying finish at this point. If I were doing it over again, I'd thin the primer a little. There were little pinholes in the valleys of the weave, which is one reason I thinned the topcoat more than usual. This method did take a lot of epoxy to wet out the Dynel. I ended up squeegeeing out about a pint of goo, before allowing it to cure. And I did take some sandpaper to the cured epoxy, to knock off some high, sharp points of fabric. But I'm happy with the job. We'll see if my mate's bottom agrees.
  15. 3 points
    I finally launched the kayak yesterday after almost a year of interruptions during the build. It was very good to be on the water again. I had nearly perfect conditions for Lake Mead- light winds, temperature in the low 80's, and the water temperature was 75 degrees. I made several short paddles to get the seat, back band, and foot rests adjusted, then paddled for close to 2 miles. I'm pleased with the performance of the boat and look forward to many more miles in the future. Thanks Jeff !!!
  16. 3 points
    If you want a cheap and mindless guide coat for sanding and boarding your surface, just get you some food coloring and put it in denatured alcohol and apply it with a rag onto your kilz primed surface. Yep, been priming with that stuff and binzeed equivalent since the mid 80s. or so. I apply it right over fiberglass for building up and filling finish cloth weave in particular. And yes you can use after sanding under two part parts after allowing it to cure for a couple of weeks. That's the oil base INTERIOR stuff that costs 15 bucks a gallon versus several hundred bucks for a two part gallon kit. I also use microlight fairing compound over the kilz primer. Then recoat with primer one coat and paint.
  17. 3 points
    In my day we didn't even HAVE zeroes - We had to write a one and then erase it!
  18. 3 points
    Thanks ... my own little mental health project! There aren't many corners left in the Internet where a group of people regularly get together without insulting each other. Must be the epoxy fumes ....
  19. 3 points
    The link to your video is broken. I believe this is the video you intended to show us: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgrZZqdPcrw
  20. 3 points
    Here are a couple of shots from Alan.
  21. 3 points
    I felt like it would be a good idea to intentionally capsize my boat in a controlled environment so I could practice righting the boat. I also wanted to observe to see if there were any modifications I could make to insure that the boat was stable when it was knocked over and I would be able to right the boat. I kept putting this little chore off. I didn't want to break anything. I did not have anyone to help me. I did not want to injury myself or someone else. My nephew was visiting, there was no wind so we decided to give it a go. We both gained some confidence learned a few things and had some fun. And nothing got broken. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y19ckyZNgI
  22. 3 points
    Hi everyone, I'm new here but purchased a Marissa 18 kit back in July. I was finally able to get started and will try to post progress updates as regularly as I can. I'm liking how everything came out from Graham, I can already see the thought and planning that went into it. I'm so glad I got the cnc cut plywood kit, it saved a ton of time already and there's no question on how precise the fit is. So far I have about 20 hours into this project, although quite a few of them were spent visualizing and thinking! Decided to dry fit to see if anything need adjusting and mainly to see the shape. Just starting but so far so good!
  23. 3 points
    Missing from this discussion is analysis of failure modes. We need information on how SOF boats have failed: Did a stringer break? At a frame? Between frames? At a knot? At a joint? What species of wood? Dimensions? Did a frame break? Where? What type of plywood? Dimensions? Did a lashing or other fastening between a stinger and frame fail? This forum might be a way to collect some information of this sort. Then some ideas on where weight can be safely reduced and where to keep things robust can be developed. Paddle on, Andy
  24. 3 points
    Winter Storage: Not a building tip but I thought this tip might be useful for those who keep their boats outside during the winter. When I removed the old skin on one of my kayaks to do a re-skin job I found that mice had built a nest for the winter up in the bow end of the boat and had gnawed about half way through a couple of the stringers. I remembered that when we owned a travel trailer my wife would put dryer sheets in cupboards, drawers, and corners to repel the mice. In many years of outside storage we never once had any sign of mice in the camper. Now I push a few dryer sheets into each end of the boat while I wait for soft water again. Seems to be working.
  25. 3 points
    It has been a long time coming. I have never been happy with the stainless steel external track. Until now it was the only track available. Many years ago, I used to be able to get 5/8 and 7/8 internal track. I have searched long and hard over the years and finally got back to the company that had the original die, but I could not justify the huge cost to do a run. I do not even think it exists anymore. I even modified some cutters and machined some track out of Starboard. It worked very well but was labor intensive and it was a bit bulky. Alan contacted about 10 aluminum extruders and so the work began. We decided that over the years we have used enough track to make the big investment. We began to list all of the properties we wanted and probably drew hundreds of versions before we committed. We wanted it to be strong enough for a 30' boat, but light enough for a Core Sound. The last weekend that I worked on it I was able to save a few more hundreds of an ounce per foot. We realized that we had better get it right or we would have the worlds most expensive recycling. We took a deep breath and invested in having the die made. The company just sent us a 3 foot trial sample, to evaluate before we make the big run. We are really happy with it; it is everything we wanted and hoped for. It is made of 6061 T-6 aluminum which is the same as the spars, so there is no galvanic interaction. It weighs 2.7 oz per foot. The track is clear anodized and pre-drilled for 5/32" countersunk rivets, or #8 flat head machine screws. It also has a V-groove down the center, so if you want/need to add and in-between fastener; or an end of section faster, because your cut length is not at the end of a standard length. It is has a radius on the back side to fit from 6" down to 1 1/2" round spar tubes. It has flat on each side of the edge on the back, so it will also fit flat on a wooden mast, with round or flat sections (box sections). It is much stiffer and straighter than the SS external track and it fits true to the surface (doesn't tilt off), which makes it easier to install. The corners are well radiused to prevent chafe on the sprit. It takes standard 5/8" internal nylon sail slides. The slides slide more easily than on the external track. The best thing of all is that with all these features and advantages it will cost less to our builders (or others) than the ss track. We expect to be able to sell it for about $35.00 per 8' length; vs. $39.00 for a slightly under 6' section of ss 5/8" track. After a lot of soul searching, we decided on 8' lengths so we can ship FedEx. The picture shows the track on a 1 1/2" tube with a nylon slide.
  26. 3 points
    Rather than hijack the mk2 thread I will start a new one. Chick asked that I post some pictures of the mk3. I started on a cabin version of the CS17 at least 5 years ago. I got involved in the big cat project and shelved it for a while. One night after work I was showing Alan some drawings that never made it. When we came upon the CS17 with the raised deck, Alan became excited by it's potential. I cyber dusted off the oiginal drawings and imported them into Rhino and modified them a bit to fit my current thinking. Then I thought, this might work on the CS20. The CS20 mk3 was born. Here are a couple of views of her.
  27. 3 points
    Hi everyone, Good day to everyone we are joining from south cost of Turkey. We two amateurs we start to built OC 20 and any comments negative or positive highly appreciated.. Thanks to everyone and safe voyages. I should say from this part of the world Graham and Carla they are both great people and they are very helpful.
  28. 3 points
    Travis, It is not hard to drill out the rivets to remove the old track and it is fairly easy to remove the old slides and sew on the new ones but it is tedious. The expedient way would be to just shackle the slides to the sails, I prefer the webbing method. That being said, I do not expect everyone to rush out change their tracks because it does work, just not as smooth. I am going to change out Southern Skimmer's track, I am using the excuse that it is R&D. David, I think that it is a good idea to supply the rivets with the track. We are sending one of our rivets to the machine shop to make sure that it is a match. Howard, I do not think that aluminum rivets are strong enough. I know that you are thinking about corrosion. If you put some goop on each rivet it helps. SS and aluminum are not far apart on the galvanic scale. You always want the fastener to be slightly more noble than the mass so that it will be protected. Aluminum on aluminum will corrode if it stays wet. I will be caulking the track to the mast as well just to keep moisture from corroding under the track.
  29. 3 points
    Thanks again for every ones wishes and concern. Carla was released on Monday and tonight she looked the best that she has been since the surgery. She has been up and down before but if she does not slip back over the next couple of days I am confident that she will be past the worst.
  30. 3 points
    I talked with Graham this afternoon. Carla is back in the hospital with what ever the infection is she has. It is making it rouph on Graham. You can tell in his voice he is worried about his wife. He is a awfully good man to help us build our boats and take time to talk to us. We need to pray for him as well as Carla. When ever I go work in the boat I just stop and pray for both of them and I can not wait till I hear she is home and on the mend Stop for a moment and pray for both of them I DO NOT THINK GRAHAM WANT TO BURDEN US WITH HIS TROUBLES BUT WHAT ARE FRIEND AND CO-WORKERS FOR. Thanks
  31. 3 points
    Thanks again for all of the well wishes. Since yesterday there has been quite a turn around. She is starting to eat again and able to keep it down. We are quite optimistic.
  32. 3 points
    I want to thank everyone for their support and well wishes. Carla got out of surgery at around 5 pm yesterday. The doctor said that everything went well. Marissa and I drove home after they moved her from the post-op to a room. She as alert and able to communicate and all of her vitals looked good. Beth is staying with her. She can come home in three to five days depending on her recovery rate. The bad news is that they were originally going to repair the upper and lower spine at the same time but decided the the upper was so bad that they addressed it first and she will have to go back for a second round once they deem her to be ready. She will be convalescing for a long time. Marissa is home from college and will be running the office as best as she can. I want to thank everyone in advance for their patience.
  33. 3 points
    I will second those Core Sound boats. Lots of boat, there. Also, Richard, people DO build SOF sailboats. They also build sailboats from plastic bottles, and concrete. Dave is right about a good sailboat. It makes sailing fun. So do good sails. I have built some turds. Don't break too many rules until you learn them fairly well. That pointy triangle boat looks like a death trap. I'd want my buoyancy further forward. Then again, what do I know? I never listen. Just ask my mom, or wife, or kids...
  34. 3 points
    Hi Matt I have glued the last layer on my keel today, just about done. As far as the stem goes, I have as many as 3 joints in the 3 layers. As long as you stagger the joints as much as possible you should be good. I glued the doublers on the frames as they where being fabricated. I cut the transom layers from a template, then laminated the layers on the transom jig as per blueprint. I will try to attach a couple of pictures of my keel. Greg
  35. 3 points
    I have just about finished making the first CS17 mk3 kit, I made the centerboard today. I am working on final tweaking and finishing up the plans and should have them available soon. There is a lot of detail and it takes time to get it all together. I have been sneaking in a few duplicate parts so that I can have one.
  36. 3 points
    Long boards come in various shapes, lengths and sizes, usually geared to match the job. A 1/2" plywood board is too stiff for most boats, except in large expanses of relatively flat areas. I've got a number of boards, one of my favorites is made from 1/8" Lexan. It's 4" wide, about 20" long and fairly flexible, so I can work compound curves. I have ones that are 1/8" and 1/4" plywood too and even one made from 14 gauge aluminum sheet. I buy paper on rolls and cut to length, using a spray adhesive to mount them, though you can just as easily use a clip or slot at each end, to hold the paper to the board. Technique is key with a boogie board (board-'o-pain). Typically you work from one end of the area (or hull side) in a single direction, across it's full length. You select an appropriate angle, which often seems to be about 30 degrees to the centerline and stroke the board at this angle the full length of the area. All strokes are at this angle, leaving a series of angled scratches. You then come back at the opposite angle, in the other direction, netting a cross hatched pattern of scratches. The low spots will be clearly visible, not having scratches in them and the high spots will be knocked down a touch. At this point, you mark the low spots and apply a little filler in these areas. The next pass with the torture board is focused on the now filled low spots, so you can knock them down to surrounding areas. I often use a very light dusting of primer at this point to fine tune the surface and help see what needs what. Again, working a common angle, you run from one end, to the other, placing a new diagonal scratch pattern and come back on the reciprocal angle for the cross hatch pattern. Each pass will continue to knock down the high spots and reveal the lows you've missed on previous passes. A pro will make three passes with the cross hatched, long board pattern. The first to find the lows, the second to knock the lows back once filled and the final pass, to even everything up. The backyard fairer, can make a career out of this process, with many passes and filling sessions. The more you work this set of steps, the fairer and smoother the hull will be. The same process is used with paint, if you want a baby's butt surface, just with finer grits, usually wet. It helps a lot to have the right lighting for this process. You can have too much light, particularly if it's directly over head. You want a low angle of light, so you can see the shadows in the low spots. The biggest mistakes novices make are not using a long board, thinking a palm sander or orbital will do and over working the surface. The Harbor Freight "in line sander" linked above shouldn't be used. It will remove material at an alarming rate and it's not flexible enough to conform to curved surfaces. That particular Harbor Fright tool is a single piston design and you'll be in serious pain, with just a 1/2 hour of use. It's a real piece of crap and if you want one, get a duel action/piston design so it doesn't tear your elbows off. Try not to get aggressive with material removal, just lightly scratch the surface, so you can see what's high and what needs to be filled. On plywood hulls you'll bring the lows up to the highs for the most part, so skim coat the lows with some filler and knock these filled areas back locally at first, then with the long board passes. A jitter bug (palm sander), DA or orbital sander will not fair a surface, just smooth it. Fairing and smoothing operations are wholly different. The long board fairs. Once the surface is fair, then you can move onto smoothing operations. Fair is what you can see, while smooth is what you feel. A surface can be smooth, but quite unfair. A dent in a car door is a classic example of this. The dent can be polished and really smooth, but the light reflection will clearly show it's not fair.
  37. 3 points
    We waved farewell to Doug today as he drove off with his new Mk3. We were happy to get her out of the shop to get a good look at her rather than being too close all of the time. I feel that she more than met my expectations and you can still see the Core Sound heritage. There is decent headroom, without the trunk cabin. It is very comfortable laying back against the hull, at 5' 7" sitting as tall as I could, my head was not touching the deck. I think that a 6 footer could find a comfortable position.
  38. 3 points
  39. 3 points
    More photos. More photos.
  40. 3 points
    Hi folks, some pics of P26 #20 leaving the shed a few days ago after two years in the building. She now has the keel attached and I have some room to start on masts. Cheers
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    I finished up a Tadpole that I’ve been building for my great nieces and nephews. It was such a fun project. It came together much faster than the Long Shots. I can’t wait to paddle with the kids. Thanks for the plans Jeff.
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    Hi all, Here are some pictures and a quick write up of the sprit sail I made last year for our spindrift. One picture shows the sail furled up by letting the snotter go and wrapping the sail up with a bungee. This is from short camping trip we took at the west end of Kamloops lake last weekend. Why I wanted to have something that would: Use a short mast and spar that would be easy to pack up and haul Be quick and easy to set up Be easy to sail Be easy to get out of the way if I wanted to stop and fish Be easy and cheap to make with readily available materials - this was a "proof of concept" and not intended for long term use How was interested in a balanced lug rig (and still am) but had trouble figuring out how to do it. In the end I read more about sprit rigs and, after getting a bit hooked on some of those youtube videos of Thames barges, decided to give one a go. Since it is an experiment I've used very cheap materials and I'll see how the set up lasts, then replace it with some better when I've learned more about it. For the first go I downloaded the free plans for the D4 dinghy (http://bateau.com/freeplans.php), and scaled up the sail dimensions to get a sail area about the same as the stock sail. I got a decent quality tarp from Princess Auto, laid it out using the existing edges where possible, then used double sided carpet tape to make the remaining hems. When I was all done I did sew the edges, but I'm not sure that was necessary or better - the carpet tape was pretty good stuff. I reinforced all the corners with three additional plies. I got two 12' 2x4's from a lumber yard, ripped four square sections from them and glued them together to make the mast. I used titebond 3 to glue them. I made the mast round with a plane and spokeshave. The bottom section where the mast fits into the boat got lots of attention and is pretty round, the rest of the mast got eyeballed. The sprit is the remainder of one of the 2x4's the mast is made of, the snotter passes though a hole near the end of the sprit then is fastened to a clam cleat a little ways up the sprit - it hasn't come loose yet. Initially I used some cheap blocks from Princess Auto for rigging, but I've since started using a couple of nice blocks I got from a real sailing store, quite an improvement! So I have about $70 in the two blocks, and $45 in the tarp, wood and cordage. Observations 1. At first I didn't check sail's centre of effort. I have done since, and it is further back than the stock sail design. Though it is not terrible, I do find the boat tends to round up in gusts a little more than it really should. 2. We reefed the sail by connecting the sprit to a grommet halfway down the leech, then bungeed the peak to the tack. This arrangement worked well, but the wind quick got weaker and the reefed sail shape was not very efficient. 3. The loose footed sail is great in flukey winds when you want to row for a stretch and leave the sail in place. Also good for sailing with little kids that don't appreciate getting wacked on the noggin. 4. The loose footed sail has a lot of twist. I don't have the experience to say what effect this has on performance but we did make almost five knots with one adult, one child and camping gear. I may try adding a sprit boom at some point in the future to see what difference that makes. 5. The rig is very quick to set up and take down, and easy to brail up if you want to stop to fish, for lunch etc. 6. So far this is working really well for us and I would do it again, but next time I will pay more attention to COE, and will probably get something from Sailrite that isn't green on one side and brown on the other. At the time I chose the better quality tarp over the better looking one! 7. I did this as an experiment, but both sail and mast seem to be wearing well. I used them all last summer, and I expect to get this summer out of them too. On average I get out about once a week from May to September. I sail on lakes and rivers in interior BC, and don't sail in very high winds. I hope this has been of some interest and/or use. Matt
  45. 2 points
    Robert - Thanks for continuing to contribute here. I've been slack lately because I always read and enjoy your posts but lately I haven't chimed in (sorry for that). I like all the projects you've shared here mostly because you're willing to go your own way and you're not shy about sharing the ups and downs of it all. That kind of attitude is both interesting and educational. Your enthusiasm for other people's projects (including mine) is infectious and I'm looking forward to catching up with you next time I get to CA and going for a paddle (though that is probably pretty far in the future). If you decide you'd rather concentrate on actually building a boat than playing around on the internet you'll still be my hero but I'll be extra happy if you can spare a little time to share and let me and the rest of the forum go along for the ride. I'll try to remember in the future that an occasional atta-boy from me might be helpful. Keep up the good work - You're exactly what this community needs.
  46. 2 points
    The recent hurricane Matthew spared the shop at B&B. We are all fine and there was no damage to report. We saw approximately 3-4 feet of water rise which was not enough to adversely affect the shop. We spent last week preparing for the **worst. Fortunately this resulted is some great fall cleaning in preparation for this years Messabout. (**we had 4 feet of water in the lower shop and 1.5 feet in the upper shop during hurricane Irene). This week the shop is without power so far and the internet is down at Carla and Grahams place (but they do have power at least) Please send any communications to us via cellphone or business email bandbkitboats@gmail.com until further notice. Thank you for your patience. -B&B
  47. 2 points
    Just finished a Curlew for my wife... Couldn't find any decent WRC locally, but I was able to get some really nice, knot-free, straight grained cypress in 16' lengths from a local mill. No scarfing required! The leftovers from milling the gunwales and stingers worked very nicely for the laminated coaming as well. No actual "launch" photos, however- I learned the hard way not to go anywhere near the water with my phone- but the boat performed perfectly and she loves it, her only other kayaking experiences have been in big 'ol roto-molded plastic boats. I'm told this is a major improvement over those.
  48. 2 points
    Until someone shows me something better, I am planning on this. Unorthodox, but I think pretty effective. Quick to flip open/closed. Should allow opening even with mast layed down, but I can't prove that yet. Worst case you lift the mast a bit. Lightweight. Secure (lockable). Regular hatch boards (2 or 3) with a screen replacement for at least one . Hinged with plastic hinges along the side to be watertight, with a overhang front and rear to prevent water egress. Flipped open shouldn't interfere with lines led to cockpit along cabin top. Plan on having handrails like Doug's boat and carefully make it so hatches are supported evenly along the length by handrail so you could stand on them even when open. Joint in the middle will have the right side overlap the left side. I will sort all this out in a prototype when I get that far, but this illustration should give you the idea. In a cross wind you could prop one side up and catch a nice breeze into the cabin. Any thoughts?
  49. 2 points
    I have wanted to do this for a long time and I am now offering boat building classes. Classes would typically run for 8 days At the end of the class each student would take home a finished kayak. Since I don't have classroom space I prefer to partner with established organizations or groups that have the space to hold a class. If your organization or group is interested contact me and we can discuss the details. We will start with one of my pre-cut kits. I will teach you how to set up the frames and stringers that define the hulls shape. Using a method that is thousands of years old you will lash all the frames together with artificial sinew. You will use no epoxy, wood glue or screws to assemble the frame. Everything is held together using the traditional method of lashings. And yes, it is very durable! Once the frame is finished we will sew a synthetic fabric 'skin' around the frame. One the skin is sewn on, you will paint the fabric to seal and waterproof the skin. It will dry overnight and the next morning we finish up by installing the seat, backrest and boats will be ready for launching.
  50. 2 points
    She is becoming a fine yacht. Asked Graham the same question when I visited last week. Answer - "When its finished" . R

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