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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    You know it occurs to me that I never gave a good update on this thread, but the little Catspaw has gotten a TON of use. I ended up moving to my summer cabin last year, which is on a tiny island with no roads or even docks. Every morning for about six months I'd walk down to the beach, pick up the Catspaw and carry it to the edge of the water, row out to my boat and leave the Catspaw on the hook, take the boat across to the big island and go to work, and every evening I'd come home and row back in. I did it in storms, in the dark, tired, injured, hung over, you name it. The boat held up at least as well as the owner. It took a little damage in rough weather one morning - the big boat was bucking around like a rodeo bull and the flare of the bow came down on the cockpit coaming, snapping off a section. But I think that was 5000 pounds of fiberglass getting dropped around 4 feet onto the bow of the catspaw; I can't complain about a little cosmetic damage. I sailed it a lot when I wasn't working and it goes pretty well, considering it's a little eight foot pram. And it keeps on absorbing whatever I throw at it: I left it on the hook for a month because I got busy with some projects here and couldn't get back to my summer place as planned until a few days ago...a handful of barnacles had adhered to the graphite bottom, as depicted below. I scraped them off and let the shore crabs deal with the mess. It's now also officially a three-person craft, as it turns out that spending six months with my wife at a cabin with no electricity requires alternative forms of entertainment. In fact we resorted to this method of staying occupied at the beginning of April so by the time we left, I was trusting the Catspaw to transport a woman whose centre of balance had shifted substantially...one could almost say that with only about 10 weeks to go before requiring an extra seat in the boat, she had become rather unbalanced. The Catspaw, on the other hand, remained quite stable. I would say its most demanding application was shuttling her back and forth on our last trip as a childless couple...she was 10 days out but wanted to get on the water, so we went back to the cabin for a few days and did a bit of trolling for winter springs. By that point she was so off-balance that loading her off the big boat and into the dinghy took about two minutes and I wished I had a small crane, although in case she reads this I'll point out that it would only have been for convenience and it could have been a crane with a very low working load limit, although of course I would deny knowing exactly what the load would have been. Anyway it has had an enormous amount of use (the boat, not the wife) and I still get compliments on it (also the boat although the wife is pretty good also). I'm hard on gear but the Catspaw is holding up well and I would recommend the design to anyone who wants a tough little dinghy with a lot of carrying capacity. And it does work well as a three-person boat. Cheers, Geordie
  2. 2 points
    Build of hull #24 ok this one is on me while working on gluing down the bunk tops some time ago I knocked a weight down thru the forward storage locker open hatch at the time I didn’t think much of it, but when I flipped the boat I discovered this fracture at the bow. I did look to see if there was any damage at the time but it didn’t feel bad.Now that this is the result. I ground out the damaged area as seen in the photos down to the last ply on the inside of the panel. Cutting glass patches progressively larger till I had enough to build the thickness back out. I know it won’t be perfect but it will not compromise the integrity of that panel. Do to the fact that this repair is on a contour I could put weight on it so I decided to bag it,the pictures show the steps involved, if anyone has a different idea I would like to here from you. mark(has
  3. 2 points
    My wife, Annie, liked that! Seabiscuit’s boom was cut from a leftover piece of 2 x 8 Douglas fir — trimmed to dimension, sanded, marked for the rigging hardware, and edges rounded over. Waiting for the kit’s arrival — I’ll next cut the parts requiring 3/4” stock. I like yellow pine that builders use for stair case “risers.” They come in long lengths up to 16 footers. All of it straight grained and nearly all clear — the few knots are tight and small. It has to be [clear] because wooden residential stairs are never painted — they’re finished natural with varnish, like ladders. If you ask sales people [at builders supply] for yellow pine, they’re likely to say “Don’t have any.” Then ask for stair riser stock — and check it out.
  4. 2 points
    Week 10 — Day 47 & 48: It’s transforming Into a Sailboat Back at the building of Norma T. In these two days I was able to finish the main mast tabernacle and it’s installation as well as finishing the mizzen mast step/tube installation. The angles seem to be at least close. When dry-fitting the mizzen, it looked good. The level showed continuity, there was a good comparison of high/low measurements between masts, and, from a distance, they appeared parallel. So, I glued things in place. The photos I took later look as though the mizzen is a bit more perpendicular than the main. I’m not sure if that’s the case or if it’s an effect of my camera lens (sure, blame things on the camera.). It’s sort of like when I got everything with the tabernacle set and lining up well with the pins... and after installing it, I still needed to do some grinding to make the pins fit through the mast as intended before I could successfully step the main mast. Theory and reality... not always exactly the same. The rudder and centerboard are assembled and installed into the boat. With that, I have begun rigging of the boat (well, one piece of rigging... for the rudder downhaul.) I can foresee a lot of trips to Franks, a great old-fashioned hardware store in town that has a very full selection of individual stainless steel screws, bolts, etc. Tomorrow, I might try adding the planned 2 inch white stripe just above the water line. We shall see how the day unfolds.
  5. 1 point
    Finally finished with my Tango 12 two part boat to carry with us when we pull our travel trailer. It seems like it took longer to finish the painting than to build the whole boat.
  6. 1 point
    I used jamestown's total boat non skid paint on the floor of my cs 17, straight from the can, over their primer. like it a lot.
  7. 1 point
    Nick, a shop crane is a stroke of genius! I’m going to call around and see if I can rent one. Wish I had friends or neighbors that were gear heads. Thanks for the suggestion and thinking outside the box!
  8. 1 point
    My experience was very similar to Mark’s and like he said it was a little scary, at least the first time. But I realized I had very secure rigging and the boat is pretty tough so working with it on its side turned out well (with old towels on the floor for padding and well chocked). I don’t have as much headroom as appears in the photos but I have a chain hoist so no problem with lift capacity on one end and I borrowed my neighbor’s shop crane for the other. And that’s the reason for this reply: I am now a real believer in the flexibility of using a crane. I rigged it at the bow eye with a webbing sling to prevent gouges from chain and I could lift, lower, and move side to side with little effort and under the tracks of my 7-foot garage door. So Todd, this is a testimonial for a crane if you are constrained for head space. Maybe a neighbor has one and you can just roll it down the street like I did.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    What Chick said and I would add: either don't epoxy till installed, or at least scuff the mating surface well if you did epoxy it first. I epoxied after. I was afraid the keel would become brittle with epoxy and not bend into place well. I do not know this to be an issue for fact.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I haven't posted an update for a while.. A custom made fly rod rod rack and fairing well underway. Not sure what to do with the floor finish. I had my heart set on teak however not sure about all that extra weight.. Maybe cork?
  13. 1 point
    The big tractor trailer arrived at my driveway about 5pm, the driver's last stop. He remembered delivering the Two Paw 7 three years ago. He was very helpful and volunteered to haul it into my garage (in the backyard) on a hand-powered fork lift. At the dip in the driveway we needed my two-wheeled hand truck to get beyond the dip. I'll organize everything tomorrow. Hope to see some of you all (with Seabiscuit) at the MASCF.
  14. 1 point
    One advantage your slide open hatch design has is the ability to pop out of it. I tried and think it's not really practical for my hinged hatch. I keep it dogged and by the time I could go below and pop out I might jibe or worse. I do think adding a downhaul will make it easy to add the first reef from the cockpit. I dropped sail to add it before, but it was slow. I did pause to reef the mizzen. Tying the first two sail ties was easy and safe standing on the cabin step.
  15. 1 point
    Steve, when it comes to going out on the cabin top to move the downhaul, well, don't. I did a few times, then asked myself why. Extending your body through the forward hatch works very well for that purpose. Next time just go through the cabin, step up on on the fwd cabin storage hatch area, and move the downhaul from there. Much more comfortable. Last sail I retrieved the anchor from that position (the anchor was even hooked onto a crab pot, so I had to pull up a lot of weight) and it worked very well.
  16. 1 point
    Daedalus: Nice boat! The rocker isn't necessarily off; saying that it turns slow but tracks great is like saying "It's hot out but not cold." On the kind of big water in your video, you'll find great tracking much more important. For quicker turning, learn to edge your boat and use sweep strokes. There are lots of videos on line showing the techniques. Also, as a former safety manager, I can't sign off without reminding you to always where a PFD. Have fun, Andy
  17. 1 point
    I screwed through the hull from the inside to attach the keel. It is bedded from end to end in epoxy, with enough screws to snug it up along the entire length. I did a complete dry fit before adding epoxy. The screws were stainless, sunk to just below flush, and filled with epoxy and later the 3 coats of neat, which puddles up a tad in the center of bilge over the screws. I don't know the Jessy, so no good advice on the stringers.
  18. 1 point
    Hello all! I’m a newbie to the forum, but just want to keep Riggs’ build alive as I’ve bought her from him. She’ll be fitted with a t-top, Awlgrip paint job and Suzuki 200 over the next couple months! I’ll start a new thread to keep her progress posted. See y’all soon, Kevin
  19. 1 point
    Just checked. No doubler under the corner radii on the S12 here at the shop. I think that little black thingy is a bug of some kind.
  20. 1 point
    Elegantly simple solution Dave. Also it packs up small when not in use. I made a light bar as part of my mast carrier. Connects to the trailer harness at about the axle, but I have made them with wire running to the connector at the hitch. Goes in the truck when not in use.
  21. 1 point
    On the Spindrift 12 some have probably doubled up those radii but I am pretty sure I've only seen it shown in Graham's design on the CS-17 and 20 and I added it to the CS-15 kit as well. It does give the ability to put a larger round-over on those edges.
  22. 1 point
    I thought it added a lot to that part of my CS15 seat. Made it feel a lot more solid.
  23. 1 point
    ...or they just get a leaky bottom.
  24. 1 point
    Pete, you reminded me of that old saying: Old sailors never die. They just get a little dinghy.
  25. 1 point
    The following is an excerpt from my blog for that trip. http://sundogboatbuilding.blogspot.com/ The tidal range around the Martha's Vineyard and southern Cape Cod is a fairly modest 3 to 4 feet. Yet the currents in and around the islands are strong. And sometimes the direction of those currents have not made sense to me. But now I think I am beginning to understand. The currents of Nantucket Sound are driven not only by the rising and falling of the tides in the area, they are driven primarily by changes in the ocean level in the Gulf of Maine and the Mid Atlantic Bight. Cape Cod divides these two areas that have dramatically different tidal ranges and times. I found this neat Giff put together by someone at the University of Massachusetts School for Marine Science and Technology. The arrows indicate direction and strength of the tidal current flow. At the same time water is flowing into the eastern end of Nantucket Sound water is flowing out between Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. The only explanation can be that water is sloshing back and forth around Cape Cod between the Gulf of Maine and the Mid Atlantic Bight. This makes navigating the area in a sailboat look like a nightmare. The Giff though is playing a six hour tide cycle in just a couple of seconds so it is not as bad as it looks. Still sailing between the islands can take a few hours and in that time the currents can reverse. You can start a crossing with the current in your favor but the tides are apt to turn before you reach your destination I did not use the Eldridge tide tables but I did consult my GPS which has current speed and direction for various stations in the area. Perhaps my attempted crossings were too long. I found it very difficult to time the currents for an entire passage. I thought it would be an advantage to have the current in my favor, but a strong current with little wind leave you very little control. Also if you want the current to be slack or in a certain direction when you reach a particular headland you have to be able to estimate your time of arrival. It is all part of the challenge that make sailing interesting. Perhaps I should have planned my route further off from Vineyard Haven to avoid the concentration of ferry traffic. There was a power boat fishing in the path of the ferry. The ferry laid on his horn and the power boat roared away. The ferry ended up passing in front of me 50 yards or so. I remember thinking that if I had been a few minutes earlier it would have been more interesting than I would like.
  26. 1 point
    Jan, You are fine. The mast in it's relaxed state sits vertical and the mast collar pitches down aft. This is why the mast is tight, you can see a gap at the aft side of the collar. There will be a gap on the underside forward. You just need to ease the forward top and aft underside until the mast slides nicely. I like to use a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe or something similar to wrap some sandpaper around working it up and down. The trick is to make hole loose enough to allow for epoxy and paint without being sloppy. You do not need to fuss much at this stage as the deck has to go on which may tighten it up more.
  27. 1 point
    It must be the clamps
  28. 1 point
    I took these this morning. I still need to sand the seam and panel closest to the sheer. She is only draped onto these molds, and lifts right off. They help to eliminate twist and other nasties. @Hirilonde— here’s the Bella 12 I was talking about. https://devlinboat.com/product/bella-12-plans/
  29. 1 point
    Well done. Love the tribute to your mom. My first B & B build I named after my mom Susan Josephine Wenke. The Suzy J. It reminds me of her, but best is that I've had a great amount of opportunity to talk to her and share her legacy like you are clearly doing. She was an amazing woodworker (no boats though!), seamstress, artist and gave me the "get er done" spirit. And yes, the devil is in the details!
  30. 1 point
    I have a 22 foot sailboat a BandB EC22. I have been eight years now using only oars or a paddle for auxiliary power. I am only considering electric. I was pleased to find this thread. I started out looking at trolling motors but have slowly gravitated to the Epropulsion Spirit Plus. I have not had a motor hanging on the transom all these years and I don't think I could get used to it, for aesthetic reasons and because of fowling the mizzen sheet. I wonder if it would be practical to stow the motor in a locker and only mount on the transom when needed. The Spirit Plus motor is 11kg/24lbs and the battery is 8.8kg/20lbs. In some ways I like the idea of the battery mounted directly to the motor because it avoids the complications of running wiring.
  31. 1 point
    Ok, I think that answers my question about the mast rake - it is not the likely culprit. I'll experiment with sail trim, centerboard position and ballast / no-ballast. I love the idea of using GPS traces to validate different approaches. I do this kind of data analysis for my bike rides all the time but it never occurred to me to do it for the boat (it has been such a long time since I raced dinghies). Our next outing will be to the sheltered waters of Tomales Bay so I should be able to get some good data. Thanks for your help!
  32. 1 point
    I learned from Pete M to make lists and set goals. It helped and it still took 4.5 years. You are way ahead of my schedule. 😁
  33. 1 point
    After reading the obituary, my daughter just posted her wedding rehearsal dinner photo of my mom (Norma T) and her baby sister... being the loudest and rowdiest “laughers” at the dinner table (mom is in the middle and her sister is on the left.) It is a favorite family memory. (Somebody just suggested the motor that Norma Torp bought for the boat could be named Torp-edo... that’s the spirit.)
  34. 1 point
    Sorry about not wrapping this up sooner. My shop built slides tested worst of all even though I had a larger cross section. After I looked up the mechanical properties it was obvious why as it was nowhere near as strong. I was surprised that the slides that come on our sails tested better than the ones that we buy domestically. Who knows where any of this stuff originates from anymore? We then searched the web and found the perfect slide right under our noses. It is a slide made out of stainless steel and coated with teflon for low friction. It looks exactly like our regular slides but black. It is a bit pricey at around $12. I am not going to rush out and change Carlita's slides, as I have said bfore that I have never broken one. On bigger boats like Jays MF246 with larger sails and forces I will use them at the head and tack and at the reef points.
  35. 1 point
    A lot of people use a Bowline. I don’t lole it, because it is large, and the bitter end comes off at right angles. I prefer the Poacher’s knot. It is strong and compact. https://www.animatedknots.com/poachers-knot That’s what I use on double braid. More often than not, these days, I’m making a Brummel splice in Amsteel. That’s the slick way to go. https://www.animatedknots.com/brummel-eye-splice-knot NOTE: the top two photos belong at the bottom. I can never seem to manage my photos in this forum! The first photo is a Poacher’s knot. The second photo is a plain Buried Brummell. The third photo is also a Buried Brummell. Sorry, but besides having a snap hook in the loop, I also have a Ronstan Shock Block. (These are awesome, by the way.). This was one of my snotter experiments. The line is 5mm (I think) Amsteel. The fourth photo are my lashing blocks. When you said “lashing”, this is what my mind jumped to. I use lashing blocks or Shock Blocks on my boats, except for the centerboard system. The final photo is a Double Poacher’s knot. I’ll stop now. I hope that there’s something in here that you might find of value.
  36. 1 point
    My OB20 kit arrived with 27 gallons of resin and hardener in five gallon buckets. It's taken me years to get through it and, stored in the basement, it crystallized, but a couple of days floating in the hot tub makes it good as new.
  37. 1 point
    Another option would be to have the tubes anodized before applying the fiberglass collars and installing the track. Graham has been collecting sulfuric battery acid thinking he might try some diy anodizing in his "extra" spare time. We probably all know about that mythical concept (spare time).
  38. 1 point
    Minor update... I've been super busy moving cities and changing jobs so no boating over the winter, but I did get a tiny spot in Wooden Boat Magazine!

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