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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2022 in all areas

  1. Epoxy is very brittle and hard compared to wood, and it has no longitudinal strength like wood. If the stringers didn't break bending them, they would likely bend less than fair at these repairs. Either cut out the holes and scarf the pieces to get the length, or buy new wood is what I would do.
    1 point
  2. When I built my Vardo last winter I got sticker shock with cedar pricing. Thankfully it's come down, and considering the slow down in new home construction, lumber prices should remain "normal."
    1 point
  3. I would probably fill each hole with thickened epoxy, but I already have some on hand from another project. If my choice was between buying epoxy and wood flour or buying new cedar I'd go with new cedar.
    1 point
  4. This Friday, eleven years after purchasing my Curlew plans, I launched my kayak and enjoyed my first paddle on Lake Chickamauga. Weight as pictured is 23 lbs. She tracked straight with no weather-cocking in the strong winds. While initial stability seems low, it improved at cruising speed and secondary stability seems better. I'm working with Seals to get a skirt that fits the coaming and will feel more comfortable testing secondary stability and ease of rolling with a good spray skirt and dry top on. Special thanks to my friend Steve Rouse for his help, shop space, and photographs. In sitting in the kayak on land before launching I broke the right side coaming support as shown in the last photo. Checking other recent launch posts I noticed that this side support piece is missing so am wondering if I should just remove the supports instead of trying to replace them. After cracking the support I realized that I needed to brace on the back deck instead of the coaming when entering and exiting the kayak! Since I want to roll the kayak when I get a backband, seat, skirt, and deck riggings installed, I'm wondering what others have done about making and attaching thigh supports/hooks and side hip padding? The kayak frames are okoume marine plywood left over from another boat-building project and the stringers are Western red cedar scarved together from the clearest boards I could find at a local lumberyard. Fabric is dacron which is covered with 3 layers of Hunter green Rust-oleum paint. Since Steve has already carved a beautiful Greenland paddle, I hope to start work on my own paddle in the near future.
    1 point
  5. Ravenswood—low volume and standard. The LV has been varnished with poly urethane and is ready to be covered. With the frames cut and stringers made, the second on went together quickly—three days from frames in the jig to FROG. It’s startling how fast they come together when everything is prepped. Laminating and then sanding and finishing the coaming is the slowest part. Takeaway from the coaming is to use very thin, straight-grained stock. I used African mahogany (wood store had a nice piece of 8/4) but next time I’d use maple or oak as Jeff recommends. Also cut it very thin. The book said 3/16ths, I went with 1/8, but next time I go for 3/32s. 1/8 was as thin as I could get on my table saw but if you have access to a band saw set up for re-sawing go thinner. The mahogany looks great but the grain was a little squirrelly. I don’t think it was worth the extra effort. Looking forward to getting them launched now! Hal
    1 point

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