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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/2022 in all areas

  1. Hello, I'm interested in the core sound 17 & 20 mk3 designs. I wonder how realistic it is for a home builder to build the boats successfully with plans only (no kit). I'm located in Canada so it might be cost prohibitive for me to have a kit shipped up here. I especially wonder about the "puzzle piece" joints that I see in the finished boats. These look like they would be quite tough to cut out accurately with a jigsaw. I'd also like to know what the sitting headroom is in both the 17 & 20 mk3. I'm a tall guy (6'5") and based on the core sound 17 mk3 tour video I am convinced that there is room for me to sleep aboard but I have not been able to find any concrete information on how much headroom there is between the seat and the ceiling of the cabin. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Alan
    1 point
  2. There is no reason why you cannot build an equal quality boat from the plans. We use the same parts file for the full size plan sheets that come with the plans as the cut file for the kit. You do not have to do any scaling or lofting. If you are meticulous in marking and cutting, and use a good quality marine ply, you will have the same boat. You do have to do your own scarfing but you can do butt tape joints, which are just as strong but take extra fairing. The point that some have made about the huge time saving of the kit cannot be over emphasized. It all depends on your burnout index. If you have a bunch of unfinished projects in your life, starting from plans might not be a good idea. We have shipped quite a few kits to Canada but we usually get burned because the Customs finds an extra fee or two that was not in the shipping quote. The cost does go up as it crosses the border. We have shipped to an address on this side of the border and the customer has driven over and picked it up. If it can be picked up from a depot, everyone can save a bundle because they charge a lot for home delivery and the mk3 kit is so heavy that you need a truck with a forklift. The lid is just screwed down but drivers cannot wait for you to remove the lid and decant the contents. As for headroom, at 6'5" you would be much happier with the 20. I was on Carlita yesterday and thinking of you at 6' 5". At 5' 7" my head just touched the underside of the 1" deep beams sitting sitting tall on 2" cushions which squashed down to about 1/2". The extra 2" in the 3.2 version would not be enough for you, not to mention the extra legroom that you will need. After my trip to Port Townsend we brought out the updated MK3.2 version incorporating everything that we had learned. The main modification was to add 2" more headroom in both models. Everyone I talked to at the Wooden boat festival talked about headroom. Most of the the other modifications were to make it easier to build. There is not a lot more work in the 20 as they both have the same building steps. The 20 does have more surface area to glass, sand and paint.
    1 point
  3. OMG. Think of the cruising possibilities Vancouver has to offer!
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  4. Alan from B&B just got back to me. I'll document this here is case anyone is looking for the information in the future. The sitting headroom in the Core Sound 20 mk3 is either 35 1/8" or 37 1/8". Apparently you can lower the benches by two inches by cutting them down to provide the extra headroom.
    1 point
  5. Thanks for all the responses. Yes I should probably get a shipping quote before ruling that option out completely. It seems that building from a kit is highly preferred and would likely contribute to the overall success of the project. Alan from B&B responded to my previous email and gave me the sitting headroom measurement (33 1/2") for the Core Sound 17 mk3. At my height that would be a tight squeeze and I couldn't really sit without hunching over. I am still hoping to get the same measurement (from bench to ceiling) for the Core Sound 20 mk3 either from Alan or someone on the forum.
    1 point
  6. Just a couple of thoughts. I'm in reasonable shape, but not a powerlifter and I have no trouble putting the mainmast up with one hand, mostly lifting with my legs to get things going. The key is to be farther forward than you think. I stand on the cabin top at the ramp, which is pretty high up. With my shoulder holding the mast forward I reach down and add the levered nut. I am 6' tall with long arms which helps. I think the only challenge is a rolling sea. The mast is only really captive in it's seat and there would be a lot of leverage on the pivot bolt. I think the mizzen would be pretty easy. I have an interest in this as I plan on doing a trip down the Erie canal and I'll need to switch to a sail rig at Cross and Oneida and Onondaga lakes.
    1 point
  7. Alan sent me an email asking if I had any good pictures of Skeena to provide to SCA for a story Marty Loken was doing on "camp cruisers you can build". I sent a few pictures to Marty, including one that was taken by a photographer from CLC that was on a support boat on the trip to Cox Creek winery. My longtime friend and sailing partner Joe was with me. This trip was a new event at the MASCF. I got an email from Marty saying that that pic had been chosen for the cover, which has been quite a thrill for me. Building Skeena was a long process but having her is such a joy. I've been singing "when I get my picture on the cover, gonna buy five copies for my mother" who sadly isn't with us anymore, but was the one who instilled craftmanship into my life. Thanks Alan, Graham, Carla and all the fine folks at B & B, and to all those who showed me the way, and answered my questions. Barring catastrophe, I will see you at the messabout with covergirl Skeena.
    1 point


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