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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/2020 in all areas

  1. Build of hull #24 ok this one is on me while working on gluing down the bunk tops some time ago I knocked a weight down thru the forward storage locker open hatch at the time I didn’t think much of it, but when I flipped the boat I discovered this fracture at the bow. I did look to see if there was any damage at the time but it didn’t feel bad.Now that this is the result. I ground out the damaged area as seen in the photos down to the last ply on the inside of the panel. Cutting glass patches progressively larger till I had enough to build the thickness back out. I know it won’t be perfect but it will not compromise the integrity of that panel. Do to the fact that this repair is on a contour I could put weight on it so I decided to bag it,the pictures show the steps involved, if anyone has a different idea I would like to here from you. mark(has
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  2. Oar length can be a confusing topic. Also has to do with height above water, height of gunnel above seat, type of boat, style of rowing even. Heck, just use a motor!
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  3. I just checked this. They are actually the same beam the S12 is basically a stretched S11. But in actual fact I am pretty sure (Graham correct me) the S12 came first. I corrected the beam dimensions. S12 is 4' 7" plus or minus a few plane strokes.
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  4. The usual rule of thumb is 1.5x times the beam of the boat, so that there is twice as much oard outside the boat as there is inside. So for a S12 that would be about 6'9" (and checking the dimensions I've just noticed for the first time that the S12 is actually narrower than the S11! What's that about?)
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  5. @Hirilonde Here are some shots of my narrow reservoir. It was a nice, quiet morning on the water. The second one is of the dam that I really don’t want to go over.
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  6. ...or they just get a leaky bottom.
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  7. My wife, Annie, liked that! Seabiscuit’s boom was cut from a leftover piece of 2 x 8 Douglas fir — trimmed to dimension, sanded, marked for the rigging hardware, and edges rounded over. Waiting for the kit’s arrival — I’ll next cut the parts requiring 3/4” stock. I like yellow pine that builders use for stair case “risers.” They come in long lengths up to 16 footers. All of it straight grained and nearly all clear — the few knots are tight and small. It has to be [clear] because wooden residential stairs are never painted — they’re finished natural with varnish, like ladders. If you ask sales people [at builders supply] for yellow pine, they’re likely to say “Don’t have any.” Then ask for stair riser stock — and check it out.
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  8. Pete, you reminded me of that old saying: Old sailors never die. They just get a little dinghy.
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